Levo Gen 2 Routine Maintenance Replacement parts -- which ones?

[EME]

It's time that I replaced the routine parts on my 2020 Turbo Levo Comp. Please could I have some advice on which are the best replacement parts ? Price isnt really important ( within reason of course). Im tempted to change like-for-like but even then I don't know which ones to get

A little bit about me would help probably:-

Bike: 2020 Turbo Levo Comp - Medium
Age: Ancient, 65+ (Me, not the bike)
Weight/Height: 80 kg/1.79m
Shock/Tyre settings-- as per Specialized calculator
Style: None
Fitness: Please refer age
ZF- Tank Commander Scale: Snail with fragile shell
Temperament: Crazy, more money than sense, Love my newfound passion.
Experience: More than most -- irrelevant here though, only MTB-ing since May 2020
Features: Big grins, bad language
Stomping Grounds: Primarily South of France so far but also Switzerland
Terrain: in first 1500km (since end May, Id estimate 75% paved road, balance steeper fire tracks - primarily stones and rocks as well as forest trails - mixed surfaces. Likely to get different / higher / grassier challenges over winter 2020/2021.
Values: Reliability important, performance next.

Derailleur Hanger
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Might as well replace as Ive bent once. I'll get 2 -- all seem to be the same online using Specialized Part Number. Am I correct?

Brake pads
------------------
No idea. Ive read so much but all I know is sintered .. so many makes out there.

Chain
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As per original or is there a better, more reliable option?

Tyres
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The more I read, the less I understand about the right general tyre choice . Generally been happy with the stock tyres but I see the criticism on here so if better exist Ill use them. My only issues with Butchers is the front 'scrubbing out' when transitioning from hard packed dry earth on to travel stones during a corner. Happened several times but may be the rider of course. Ive had wheel spin on very steep stony/rocky climbs. I have no wish to change the rear wheel size .. just which are best tyres for me? Rear is getting a bit 'slick' in the middle now. Wear is very obvious.

Grateful for all help on the above. Anything else I have totally missed ? Thanks in Advance.

 

[Swissrider]

Brake pads is what you’ll replace most. Experiment. I’m currently using Swissstop sintered pads on the front and trickstuff on the back, on my Kenevo. Sintered have a harsher feel, last longer and can be noisy, organic can have a more predictable bite, are quieter and wear out quicker. You have to find out which you prefer.
Chains - you can’t go far wrong with OE make but I’m happy with Sram chains.
Tyres - a lot of people don’t like the original Butchers, but I’ve been fine with them. I changed front tyre to Maxis and went down from 2.8 to 2.7 because of advice on this forum but I can’t say that there is that much difference. If you ride in areas with sharp rocks/thorns you should choose tyres with thicker sidewalks and go tubeless, maybe consider an insert. If punctures are not an issue (I’ve not had one in years old riding in the Alps, both with tubes and tubeless) then you can go lighter, which is always nice.

 

[KennyB]

SRAM chains for me. PC1110 at 114 links it's just the right length for my size M and is on at the moment. Working well and cheap - so I'll change it sooner rather than later.
I've found SRAM jockey wheels prone to seizing so recommend Hope or Superstar straight off.

 

[escrs]

First thing to do is check if the parts actually need changing

Obviously your tyres sound like they need replacing

Tyre choice is a very personal thing and depends on what conditions you ride in, its a bit trial and error to find a pair you like, best to read up on the different types and compounds available and decide on one for your riding conditions

Have you checked your chain for wear? 11 speed chains need to be replaced at 0.5 wear otherwise you run the risk of the chain wearing the cassette also which is another added expense (if the chain has worn the cassette any new chain fitted will skip)

Brake pads, have you removed them and checked how worn they are? if your braking isn't as good as it was when new have you checked the pads and deglazed them?

Derailleur hanger, if the bike is shifting fine and the hanger has no damage then just leave it, by all means buy a spare just in case but it doesn't need to be replaced if the bike is shifting ok

I've found SRAM jockey wheels prone to seizing

You know you can service them?

When mine start becoming stiff i just remove the jockey wheels, prize out the bearing seal with a pick, then again with the pick prize out the rubber bearing race (bearings all stay in place) clean with isopropyl alcohol, smear with grease, refit rubber bearing cage, smear with more grease and refit bearing seals

Jockey wheels are good to go again and its cost me nothing

 

[KennyB]

Picture this.
Finish ride, jockey wheels fine. Loading bike, jockey wheels seized, solid.
Cost, several days lost.
My set of Hope jockey wheels are nearing the end of their 4rh trouble free year, riding 3 times a week. Say 600 rides.
Cost 6 pence a ride.

 

[EME]

Thanks everyone :-

@escrs Yes, I have checked everything as well as I'm able although my understanding of 'worn' is totally subjective with no prior experience of 'overcooking' wear until its too late. As you suggest, the tyres ( especially the rear tyre) are obvious by comparison with visits to my LBS and comparing with new. Brake pads , I took out this week and was surprised the wear was down to little compound left ( front), rear a little more but only a couple of weeks worth . From above I thought more so removing was good. My stretch is 0.75% now and although shifting seems ok -- I am going to change.

@Swissrider , @KennyB and @escrs Thanks for the polite wake up! Im undoubtedly taking myself a bit seriously in looking for the 'perfect answer' and I should experiment and find out what suits me. I have been pleasantly surprised how cheap bike bits are relative to some repairable items.

Derailleur Hanger. Yes that is rather stupid of me on reflection . Im not having an issue and was only concerned that I had to get the LBS to straighten before and assumed there was an ongoing weakness. I can do myself now.

Brake Pads I shall try Swisstop on the basis why not! easily obtained -- I shall try regular non-metallise to see if I prefer the feel.

Tyres. Ok I shall read everything today again and try and work out what is best for a 'novice' with the general terrain ( and roads) for someone who values Stability & Reliability ahead of speed. the biggest drops and broken bones. Ive ridden tubeless since Day 1.

Chain. Clear advice to go SRAM , so the PC1110 it will be.

Jockey Wheel Frankly, never even thought of looking at it . It will be checked for movement and Ill take it to bits -- 'cos I can.

Ill post what I decide before tonight on my tyre choice.

Thanks Again for taking the time to help and advise.

 

[escrs]

My stretch is 0.75% now and although shifting seems ok

Your current shifting will be ok as the chain and cassette have worn together, when you fit a new chain it may skip on the cassette due to your old chain reaching 0.75 wear, 11 speed chains are meant to be changed at 0.5 wear as after that they tend to wear the cassette's teeth, especially in well used gears

You may be lucky and the new chain wont skip but if it does it means you need to buy a new cassette too

If your jockey wheels are stiff and beyond repair then you can fit Sram NX ones which are cheaper and use bushings instead of bearings or get some bling ones like Hope

 

[EME]

Ok, extensive re-reading and trying to match my own general observations I think the replacement tyres I try should be:
Schwalbe 29 x 2.6 both
Front: Magic Mary. Addix Soft, Super Trail and
Rear: Eddy Current, Addix Soft, Super Gravity

@escrs I hadn't even thought that the cassette and chain could be self-compensating. Ive ordered chain so I will know by Monday lunchtime.

Id hoped to avoid 'too much' change as Ive been struggling with choice between 2021 model ( I know more now than in April / May ) vs fun upgrades. I decided on the upgrades later this or early next year I was hoping to do that after some more wear-and-tear and a bit more experience . That is for another day though as Im going to do some maintenance first

 

[RickBullotta]

Absolute Black makes some sweet derailleur pulleys. They cost about as much as my first bike, but they're quite durable for me thus far.

 

[Swissrider]

Emountainmagazine (free app) did a very through review of most tyres on the market. You can probably get to the article by googling it. This might help, if nothing else all the terminology is explained

 

[EME]

@Swissrider Could I ask for a link please ? I cant find anything

 

[KeithR]

@Swissrider Could I ask for a link please ? I cant find anything

The best eMTB tire – the most import models in review

Schwalbe, MAXXIS, Continental, Michelin, WTB, Kenda… The range of eMTB tires on offer is huge and sometimes confusing. We tested more than 50 tires and although we couldn’t agree on a clear favourite, we can tell you how to find the perfect tire to suit you and your bike. One caveat before we...

ebike-mtb.com

 

[EME]

Thanks @KeithR . Ive read that a couple of times now, Its what my choices were based on. Doesn't mean I understood of course. Ive also found it difficult tonight to find the latest Schwalbe models in France -- so I may have to look at Michelin instead.

 

[Jeff H]

I prefer the SRAM PC XX1 11 speed chain. The hard chrome plating seems to hold up better to the cheaper non-plated alternatives. You did say “price isn’t really important”

 

[urastus]

New foam rings and correct weight oil for a lower fork service. Depending on brand you might need a few other things eg rockshox use crush washers for the bolts on the bottom. I haven't look into shock service yet, although I took mine apart to remove tokens and it all looked good, unlike the fork which had very dirty foam rings and dirty oil.

 

[EME]

@Jeff H Thanks. Ill get as well. Now Ive learnt that stretching messes up other drivetrain parts I've realised that early changes are possibly less expensive, did I write I was finding bike bits cheap? Doh!
@urastus I had been avoiding forks and shocks -- I have to leave something for my LBS ! ( actually an excuse to ask them to check my handiwork). I will read it up though.

I appreciate that service requirements are dictated by the component parts but are there things like generalised "Service interval schedules " available anywhere covering time/mileage etc as you would for cars etc? Im flying blind on this and solely learning from you good folks on here and info I stumble across on component manufacturer sites.

 

[EME]

Meanwhile back in Numpty Dumpty corner :-
New Chain - Broke the old one and fitted new. Some initial challenges ( who said you had to refit through the right Derailleur guides? ) and now all ok -- I think. No obvious jumping on the 250 metre test journey so far! Ended up binning first new change and fitted spare x1.
New Brake Pads - I wanted to fit Swissstop but then read that you should change rotor if you move to 'organic' (wtf) pads so fitted Braking AND seem to have successfully bled brakes as well ( this is generally known as a miracle).
Derailleur hangar - New unit added to backpack 'just-in-case' kit which weighs now more than I do.
Tyres :- Ordered Mucky Mary and Betty Bitch ( I couldn't write the obvious) tyres and awaiting delivery --- I shall be riding 'slicks' on Wednesday. That may work for Hamilton, Busch and Castroneves but Im getting worried.
Forks :- I jumped up and down on them after spraying with silicone stuff -- lots of crap came out. Need to find replacement kit this week.

Vist to LBS booked for Thursday to make sure I haven't screwed it all up. They must think its Xmas, they sell me the bits and then they get me to pay to check / correct!

Thanks again all -- loved the weekend.

 

[Mikerb]

I think you need to clarify in your mind what is maintenance, what is upgrade and what is the collection of spares!
Regular maintenance is mostly about cleaning and lubeing, visually inspecting the entire bike, and ensuring nothing has or is coming loose.
Periodic maintenance is likely to include
1. chain measurement and replacement if worn.....I would ignore the worn to 0.5% or you will be changing chains very quickly! 0.75 is a more realistic max.
2. Tubelesss tyre sealant top up
3. Brake pad wear...replace as necessary
4. Electrical contacts cleaning

Annual maintenance would include:-

1. Check , clean and/or replace wheel bearings as required
2. Strip clean and re lube freehub
3. Remove and clean cassette.

Usefull backpack spares include hanger, chain, quicklinks, tube, zip ties.

Tyre replacement is required when a tyre is damaged beyond repair or worn (not necessarily bald!) or to change to a tyre spec that better suits your typical terrain ( winter and summer). How well any tyre performs largely depends on your riding technique especially in turns but also the tyre pressure you run and then the tread pattern and compound you choose to match the terrain. Its a big subject by itself!!

 

[EME]

Thank you @Mikerb

No doubt you are right, I didnt/don't have a clue as to what to do, nor when to do it.

In fact I have never topped up my tyre sealant. I shall look up how to do that today. I have definitely lost a little in the rear as there was a tell-tale darker spot a couple of weeks ago now you mention it. That would have been what it was not dog urine as I originally thought.

The annual stuff is an interesting list that I will come back to in the spring.

With the addition of the hanger my backpack list of spares is exactly as you have plus a minimill to duo the stuff that the SWAT toll does not.