Rockshox Reverb AXS wireless dropper question

Kiwi in Wales

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Hi all,
Hope someone on here who has a Reverb AXS dropper can answer my question......
I am thinking of buying a ASX dropper but cannot find any info regarding what the actual full insertion length into the frame is for a 150mm or a 170mm dropper.
I have a medium frame and ideally want to use the 170mm but not sure if the post will fully insert into the frame or bottom out and have some of the post visible. I don’t mind 25mm to 30mm sticking out of the frame but I really want my post and more importantly my seat out of the way as much as possible.
I have looked on the SRAM site and found the user manual and service manual but they do not answer what I am after. Looked on various reviews but nothing.....

The length of A is what I am after (The info below is a different post but it shows you what I am after)
As the AXS post is wireless it would hopefully be an easy task to remove the post and take the measurement which would be very much appreciated or if someone has the detailed dropper specs to hand that would be easier.

BA5335F5-8A44-4566-B527-6DAFAD53C225.jpeg
 

Zimmerframe

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Can't find it either exactly as you want it .. but these might help you calculate it :

From bikeradar : "In terms of length, it measures up the same as the older style Reverb, making my 150mm travel post 440mm in length."

reviews.mtbr :

Diameters: 30.9mm, 31.6mm, 34.9mm
Travel: 100mm, 125mm, 150mm, 170mm
Lengths: 340mm, 390mm, 440mm, 480mm

This one states a minimum insertion depth ..

ROCK SHOX Seatpost Reverb AXS A1 | 150 mm, 537,50

There are these .. so maybe check the numbers from the other bits and you can calculate the bit you need as they only show to the mechanism.

This one has the measurements you want, but for the 125mm post

Rockshox Reverb Axs 125mm Seatpost | Jenson USA

and the 150

Rockshox Reverb Axs 150mm Seatpost | Jenson USA

and the 170

Rockshox Reverb Axs 170mm Seatpost | Jenson USA
 

Kiwi in Wales

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The info on the Jenson site is exactly what I was after Zimms
Row C
225mm for the 150 or
245mm for the 170 ;)
Looks like I can go for the 170, Cheers dude (y)
D9B520FF-F767-471F-9483-DB7C6E983157.jpeg
 

CjP

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170mm post measures at 265mm from the silver thingy.
2019 Kenevo Medium then you need to hole saw the inside of the frame out to get it down all the way. Ask me how I know...
2020 Kenevo S4 no problems all the way down!
One of the best mods I’ve done to date. The seat is just superb and the ability to drop right down and still have the height is just perfect.

DAF1DE3B-629E-4E5B-ABC0-25D1593CA0D4.jpeg


ABC150F1-4C96-498D-8E7E-5AF6D5C6FABA.png


6DC76E9A-9A5E-41EB-8B78-1D50C79A9CD8.png
 

Kiwi in Wales

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Thanks Christian, very much appreciated.
It is going on a medium 2019 Comp Carbon Levo so I will need to recheck the length available inside the frame as hole sawing the frame could cause me a few problems :eek:
 

Zimmerframe

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I think the website measurement doesn't include the mechanism at the bottom (245mm), which is another 20mm. Either that or @Christian is using his "man measure" which measures 10% larger than actual ?

Maybe you two should start a club ? The "We have an EMTB for each leg Club" ?

I think there might be more members than we realise !!
 

Kiwi in Wales

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The mech at the bottom is the air valve so with a bit of luck that won’t connect with anything at the base of the seat tube :unsure:
 

CjP

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Thanks Christian, very much appreciated.
It is going on a medium 2019 Comp Carbon Levo so I will need to recheck the length available inside the frame as hole sawing the frame could cause me a few problems :eek:
Yes I wouldn’t be hole sawing Carbon, aluminium no worrrie! ?Have a look cause there was also a slightly smaller diameter just above the pivot bolts and there was a slight bend in the tube also. If possible get a standard seat post from somewhere and stick it down there to measure before you buy the axs, that way you can be 100% sure. I thought I had my measurements right before I bought it but I was wrong. Luckily for me my second option worked out!
 

CjP

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I think the website measurement doesn't include the mechanism at the bottom (245mm), which is another 20mm. Either that or @Christian is using his "man measure" which measures 10% larger than actual ?

Maybe you two should start a club ? The "We have an EMTB for each leg Club" ?

I think there might be more members than we realise !!
This is my plan for when my back finally let’s go! Kenevo version though.

8E6CC183-48D5-4DCF-B6AE-BB5FA0E1BE14.jpeg
 

Kiwi in Wales

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Yes I wouldn’t be hole sawing Carbon, aluminium no worrrie! ?Have a look cause there was also a slightly smaller diameter just above the pivot bolts and there was a slight bend in the tube also. If possible get a standard seat post from somewhere and stick it down there to measure before you buy the axs, that way you can be 100% sure. I thought I had my measurements right before I bought it but I was wrong. Luckily for me my second option worked out!
Will check again for sure. I have a 170mm Oneup post that has a post length that is 270mm long so if that fits I will be good to go. Thanks for you help on this (y)
 

AdmChr

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>>170mm post measures at 265mm from the silver thingy<<
>>2020 Kenevo S4 no problems all the way down!<<

View attachment 24240

@Christian, would you be able to tell me exactly what the stack height distance is for your 170mm Reverb AXS (from center of the seat rail to the bottom of the silver AXS seat collar)? The figure that I'm coming up with is 230mm, but I've read online that it measures 245mm which will not work for my ride height. I appreciate the help!

Here's an example of the measurement I'm needing (yellow arrow = bottom of seat post collar) or the 'B' measurement in the diagram.
923FD458-3C22-4CE1-B9D0-9D5BD406B1F3_1_201_a.jpeg


BA5335F5-8A44-4566-B527-6DAFAD53C225.jpeg
 
Last edited:

CjP

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Hey mate, mine measures 233mm exactly from the centre of the seat rail to the underside of the silver seat post collar. 230mm is the underside of the seat rail. Roughly 238mm to the top of the rail. I’ve also triple checked that my seat is at full extension.
Also for reference the bottom section is 265mm





15D28F76-E2E0-45B2-BF3C-8C643683F8C3.jpeg


65C43C51-6F5B-4F8B-A33C-362670461F72.jpeg
 

Zimmerframe

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Hey mate, mine measures 233mm exactly from the centre of the seat rail to the underside of the silver seat post collar. 230mm is the underside of the seat rail. Roughly 238mm to the top of the rail. I’ve also triple checked that my seat is at full extension.
Also for reference the bottom section is 265mm





View attachment 27225

View attachment 27226

I thought all Australian tape measures were made by upcycling empty beer cans and cutting them into spirals ? Interesting to see a branded normal one :)
 

CjP

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I’m an Itai, pasta is in my blood. I choose to avoid the Gluten, Dairy and Yeast where I can.
Mother is ashamed of me but yeah Yeast has alway disagreed with my stomach
 

mulluk

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I’m an Itai, pasta is in my blood. I choose to avoid the Gluten, Dairy and Yeast where I can.
Mother is ashamed of me but yeah Yeast has alway disagreed with my stomach
Yes I wouldn’t be hole sawing Carbon, aluminium no worrrie! ?Have a look cause there was also a slightly smaller diameter just above the pivot bolts and there was a slight bend in the tube also. If possible get a standard seat post from somewhere and stick it down there to measure before you buy the axs, that way you can be 100% sure. I thought I had my measurements right before I bought it but I was wrong. Luckily for me my second option worked out!
can you give us some info on the tools used to make the hole? 34.9 hole saw or smaller like 34mm? Any photos?
As far I can see, the pivot mount is welded on outside so sawing the insode out should be ok. Do you have any longterm experiences?
Thanks in advance
 

CjP

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can you give us some info on the tools used to make the hole? 34.9 hole saw or smaller like 34mm? Any photos?
As far I can see, the pivot mount is welded on outside so sawing the insode out should be ok. Do you have any longterm experiences?
Thanks in advance
Ok unfortunately I don’t have any photos of the cutout and I’ve since put the axs on my new bike so I’m running the stocker now but yes I used a 34mm metal hole saw. It was actually a perfectly tight fit as in I had to jamb it a little down there. I used a socket adapter for my drill and ran a socket extension which connected to the hole saw arbour to get the length.There is a little bit of meat you have to take out on the inside but that doesn’t not affect the bolts for the suspension link at all. Right at the end though where the seat tube starts to bend the hole saw will want to follow once you have run the saw right through. You sort of have to run it a couple more times on a slight angle to take of the lip. You will see what I mean once you do it.
I sprayed lots of wd40 or some cutting spray would be fine to keep things cool so as not to heat up things too much.
I pulled the whole rear end, motor covers off and also covered the motor with some rags as it will spray metal fillings everywhere. Was also easier to move the frame around in the stand to get a good drilling angle.
All in all a pretty simple job. 170mm seat post went right in and was about the perfect height for my 5’10 height. Seat went right down which was super handy for downhill stuff.
Since then the bike hasn’t faulted. It’s been through crashes, flips, smashing the seat on big jumps etc and no problems. Your basically just taking off a bit of weld so I don’t think it’s anything structural. In saying that if it was to crack in that spot in a big crash you would lose your warranty but I reckon that frame is plenty beefy enough.
 

mulluk

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Ok unfortunately I don’t have any photos of the cutout and I’ve since put the axs on my new bike so I’m running the stocker now but yes I used a 34mm metal hole saw. It was actually a perfectly tight fit as in I had to jamb it a little down there. I used a socket adapter for my drill and ran a socket extension which connected to the hole saw arbour to get the length.There is a little bit of meat you have to take out on the inside but that doesn’t not affect the bolts for the suspension link at all. Right at the end though where the seat tube starts to bend the hole saw will want to follow once you have run the saw right through. You sort of have to run it a couple more times on a slight angle to take of the lip. You will see what I mean once you do it.
I sprayed lots of wd40 or some cutting spray would be fine to keep things cool so as not to heat up things too much.
I pulled the whole rear end, motor covers off and also covered the motor with some rags as it will spray metal fillings everywhere. Was also easier to move the frame around in the stand to get a good drilling angle.
All in all a pretty simple job. 170mm seat post went right in and was about the perfect height for my 5’10 height. Seat went right down which was super handy for downhill stuff.
Since then the bike hasn’t faulted. It’s been through crashes, flips, smashing the seat on big jumps etc and no problems. Your basically just taking off a bit of weld so I don’t think it’s anything structural. In saying that if it was to crack in that spot in a big crash you would lose your warranty but I reckon that frame is plenty beefy enough.
As far as Ican see you don‘t take any weld out at all as the whole bolt-construction is only welded on from the outside. Weld (seam) itself is structural imo :)
You basically take out the remaining pipe which was put throught the seattube horizontaly while manufacturing.
 
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CjP

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As far as Ican see you don‘t take any weld out at all as the whole bolt-construction is only welded on from the outside. Weld (seam) itself is structural imo :)
You basically take out the remaining pipe which was put throught the seattube horizontaly while manufacturing.
Sorry yes you are exactly right, now I remember what it looked like. I’m no engineer but I don’t think it makes an structural difference with it removed. If I haven’t broken it yet with what I have put that bike through them I doubt it’ll break.
 

Benson

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Sep 19, 2018
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I have a large 2019 Carbon Levo and am thinking of buying a 30.9mm AXS Reverb and slamming with a 34.9mm shim to ensure it gets past the linkage bolts. Anyone done this and confirm it’s a bad idea? ?
 

Benson

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Yes, that's the same solution I'm curious about....... Follow

I bought a length of pipe with a 30mm outside diameter and it fits easily down to 270mm into the seat tube without touching the linkage bolts. It would fit even further but I still have the dropper cable fitted, until I commit and buy the AXS Reverb. I’ve measured the saddle height using the measurements in this thread and believe my saddle height is perfect with a 170mm dropper slammed. Really the only thing left is to source a 34.9 to 30.9 post shim and then we’re in business.
 

Benson

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Sep 19, 2018
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Hampshire UK
Ok, so AXS Reverb and shim arrived and fitted without a hitch. It was a hairy moment removing the old dropper cable knowing what a pain in the arse it is to refit should anything have gone wrong but the 30.9mm AXS 170mm dropper went straight in to my large 2019 Levo without any bolt modification using a shim. Worth mentioning the shim I bought (brand ‘USE’) adds about 4mm stack height to the post but even for my stumpy legs this is fine.
 

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