Rise Battery 'blinking red led' question

[NorthernBloke]

Asking anyone if their Rise does the same thing..

Whilst out riding last weekend, got to a point of the 'blinking red led' of doom. At the time I was using Boost mode and it clicked into Eco as expected. I decided to turn off the assist to conserve the battery as I was only 2k from home. However it felt like there was still a lot of resistance from the motor as if the drive was still engaged in Boost. This made pedalling tough uphill and it stayed the same even moving to the crawler gears. Only releasing it once I got more speed up and moved back down the cassette.

It's as if the motor still thinks it is in Boost but not getting any power from the battery

Any thoughts

 

[aarfeldt]

What firmware version are you using ?

 

[NorthernBloke]

What firmware version are you using ?

Not sure (probably the one installed at Factory), there is a firmware update, bit nervous due to some of the horror stories on here tbh

 

[aarfeldt]

You should upgrade to current, which is 4.1.8

2 blinking red LED tells you, there is trouble and you should open the app to find out more
Mine did the same the other day, and the new firmware fixed the issue (speed sensor misreading).
All good now.

 

[NorthernBloke]

You should upgrade to current, which is 4.1.8

2 blinking red LED tells you, there is trouble and you should open the app to find out more
Mine did the same the other day, and the new firmware fixed the issue (speed sensor misreading).
All good now.

See what you are getting at, but blinking on the junction box means battery lower than 10%, Green >20% to Red <20% to Blinking Red <10%
I will check what version I have though ta

 

[b33k34]

I *think* this might just be you being tired. If I start out on the bike with the motor off then it feels like riding a normal bike. If I switch it off half way up a hill it feels like I'm riding through treacle.

 

[aarfeldt]

See what you are getting at, but blinking on the junction box means battery lower than 10%, Green >20% to Red <20% to Blinking Red <10%
I will check what version I have though ta

According to the Rise manual, both LED blinking red, means system error.
The system error can be read from the app.

 

[NorthernBloke]

According to the Rise manual, both LED blinking red, means system error.
The system error can be read from the app.

View attachment 80855

It not a system error, it's a level of battery indicator

 

[jka]

I think we're talking about two different things. If only one LED is blinking red, that means the battery is almost dead. If two LEDs are blinking red, then there is a system error. The OP didn't specify one or two LEDs blinking red.
From Orbea Blue Paper:
WITH SHIMANO EW-EN100 JUNCTION: With the bicycle on, the Shimano EW-EN100 junction will show in the LED1 the remaining battery charge of the battery(ies). The LED1 will display a green light until the battery charge is below 21%, after which the LED1 will show a red light. When the battery is almost depleted, the LED1 will blink in red.

I do seem to remember that some folks were complaining that if the battery died completely and the motor powered down while riding that it felt like the clutch didn't disengage and there was drag from the motor. If I remember correctly, stopping or pedaling backwards for a few seconds seemed to disengage the clutch and the motor would then freely spin and allow riding without any drag. I could be mistaken on that so if someone could verify, that might help.

 

[NorthernBloke]

I think we're talking about two different things. If only one LED is blinking red, that means the battery is almost dead. If two LEDs are blinking red, then there is a system error. The OP didn't specify one or two LEDs blinking red.
Form Orbea Blue Paper:
WITH SHIMANO EW-EN100 JUNCTION: With the bicycle on, the Shimano EW-EN100 junction will show in the LED1 the remaining battery charge of the battery(ies). The LED1 will display a green light until the battery charge is below 21%, after which the LED1 will show a red light. When the battery is almost depleted, the LED1 will blink in red.

I do seem to remember that some folks were complaining that if the battery died completely and the motor powered down while riding that it felt like the clutch didn't disengage and there was drag from the motor. If I remember correctly, stopping or pedaling backwards for a few seconds seemed to disengage the clutch and the motor would then freely spin and allow riding without any drag. I could be mistaken on that so if someone could verify, that might help.

I will try this, it might be I am just knackered

Just don't want to buy a range extender for the odd ride over 40k

 

[NorthernBloke]

What I have noticed is that the red light to blinking red light happens quite quickly

 

[jka]

Knackered....that's a great word. We don't use it here in the states so no one would know what it means, but I'm going to start.

 

[jka]

What I have noticed is that the red light to blinking red light happens quite quickly

I agree. It's seems like it's sometimes about 10 pedal strokes to go from steady red to blinking red. But then again, by the time I've ridden far enough to get into the red, I'm quite knackered (love that word) and it might be a bit longer, but I'm just dreading the blinking red so it seems like it changes very quickly. I rely on my Garmin for battery status now and rarely even look at the LEDs.

 

[NorthernBloke]

Knackered....that's a great word. We don't use it here in the states so no one would know what it means, but I'm going to start.

We have some great ones in the old country

'Wazzock' -- an idiot
'Pillock' -- an idiot just ruder

 

[NorthernBloke]

What I have noticed is that the red light to blinking red light happens quite quickly

I agree. It's seems like it's sometimes about 10 pedal strokes to go from steady red to blinking red. But then again, by the time I've ridden far enough to get into the red, I'm quite knackered (love that word) and it might be a bit longer, but I'm just dreading the blinking red so it seems like it changes very quickly. I rely on my Garmin for battery status now and rarely even look at the LEDs.

I have a Garmin watch 735XT about the only one Orbea doesn't support

 

[NorthernBloke]

We have some great ones in the old country

'Wazzock' -- an idiot
'Pillock' -- an idiot just ruder

Oh before you start using 'Pillock' to slag off other inconsiderate Riders on the trail, it derives from the Norwegian 'Pillicock' and 'cock' is it's meaning. We use it a lot in the North because we were once Vikings

 

[jka]

Oh before you start using 'Pillock' to slag off other inconsiderate Riders on the trail, it derives from the Norwegian 'Pillicock' and 'cock' is it's meaning. We use it a lot in the North because we were once Vikings

Great! I'll use Wazzock and be cautious with Pillicock. That's interesting. I'm of English, Scottish and Norwegian heritage. I lived in Norway for a few years and never heard the word pillicock used at all.

 

[b33k34]

What I have noticed is that the red light to blinking red light happens quite quickly

I agree. It's seems like it's sometimes about 10 pedal strokes to go from steady red to blinking red. But then again, by the time I've ridden far enough to get into the red, I'm quite knackered (love that word) and it might be a bit longer, but I'm just dreading the blinking red so it seems like it changes very quickly. I rely on my Garmin for battery status now and rarely even look at the LEDs.

Red comes on at 20%, flashing red is basically dead - last couple of % I think

Running in Eco in Profile1 I'm getting at least 200m of climbing out of it from that point and quite a bit of distance. Boost seems to eat battery more when the battery is running low