Looking to swap out the stem on my e160 so need to remove the front light as it's next to useless anyway. It's a sealed unit on the back of the light so must be a plug/connector somewhere inside the frame I can hopefully dismantle and pull through. Cable runs through the internal routing at the headset. Anyone know where it's located before I start dismantling too much?
Removing front light e160 8000
- Thread starter D3xt3rMTB
- Start date
I’m in the same situation. I’ve put my own stem and bars on so had to bodge a clamp for the light from an old reverb control clamp but personally I would rather remove it altogether.
- Thread starter
- #3
Yeah, there's the Lezyne xlock system that bolts onto the bottom stem bolts which isn't too bad if I have to keep. Off to LBS today so going to ask them if they know. If not, I'll start taking it apart after my N.Wales trip next week. Seen a few posts that look like wiring goes into side of motor unit behind cover but will try and trace it through if I can. Wouldn't mind if it was a decent light you could use for night rides but it's a bit underpowered for that.
The cable runs down and is plugged in on the side of the motor.
(26) Shimano EP8 E-Bike Motor Unit Installation. Enduro E-Bike Build - Part 2. - YouTube
Why do you consider it as useless?
It’s not a hard job, but you do need to loosen the motor bolts, as its the yellow and black wire that is screwed into the left side of the motor under the plastic cover.
Also loosen the 4 water bottle frame bolts as the cable runs through some cable keepers held by them, easily seen if you remove the battery, and its all one cable that goes from light to motor.
I flipped my Bike upside down and removed the 4 forward motor bolts, and loosened the rear two to allow the motor to pivot as the wires are wedged between the frame and motor. All up takes about 15 minutes
PS you may need to remove the chain ring to allow you to get to the right rear motor bolt.
Hope this helps
Also loosen the 4 water bottle frame bolts as the cable runs through some cable keepers held by them, easily seen if you remove the battery, and its all one cable that goes from light to motor.
I flipped my Bike upside down and removed the 4 forward motor bolts, and loosened the rear two to allow the motor to pivot as the wires are wedged between the frame and motor. All up takes about 15 minutes
PS you may need to remove the chain ring to allow you to get to the right rear motor bolt.
Hope this helps
ToshMerida
Member
I swapped out a Lezyne E115 (stock on Merida E140 2021) with a Lezyne 1000w roughly £70 uk. I pulled enough slack cable through ABOVE battery housing section, cut the black and yellow wires then connected new black and yellow wires from 1000w Lezyne Sealed with electrical shrink wrap cable. Very basic electrical knowledge required. Boom 1000w with various modes which stock version did not have.
Very easy task, took me circa 45mins and i am not a spark.
New project is powerful but not fully tested in dark forrest conditions yet, but very promising, coupling with an Exposure Diablo head torch
I did this today and it was easier than I thought. Just remove the small plastic cover on the non-drive side of the motor, then undo the 2 silver screws holding the cable. Pull the cable back through (you’ll need to loosen the 4 bolts holding the cables on the inside of the downtube). Put it all back together, job done!
Cheers mate, I will be doing tonight when I get home! Cannot wait to get rid of the useless and ugly light!
Industry nine stem and oneup carbon bars are next on my shopping list!
Shop links to these items would be great , save searches etc
Thanks ?
InspectHerWheels
New Member
I have a number of lights and have now ridden my new E160 at night.
I normally use a handlebar mounted Fenix BC30R which is great but the E115 is impressive.
The E115 does a lot with the modest output of the light, in particular the beams design is one of the best I have seen.
The point should be though that you need more than one light at night for real Mountain Bike riding, in fact, it is nice even for paved tracks at night.
I use Led Lenser XEO19R for my headlamp and that can pump out 2000 Lumens on boost but mainly I run it at 1000 which is plenty and that is fed by a belt mounted, large, rechargeable battery pack.
I think for a handlebar mounted light the E115 will replace the Fenix even though the Fenix is another 2000 Lumen light compared to 310 for the E115. It is just way more handy to have it there and it is great for visibility during the day.
I also have a number of other lights and I always have a Zebralight SC600 Mk3 on my belt for general use but it is a third light at night. I take night riding and lights seriously as you can get hurt without plenty of light. It isn't just lumens though but the lens design and the use you put the light to.
I normally use a handlebar mounted Fenix BC30R which is great but the E115 is impressive.
The E115 does a lot with the modest output of the light, in particular the beams design is one of the best I have seen.
The point should be though that you need more than one light at night for real Mountain Bike riding, in fact, it is nice even for paved tracks at night.
I use Led Lenser XEO19R for my headlamp and that can pump out 2000 Lumens on boost but mainly I run it at 1000 which is plenty and that is fed by a belt mounted, large, rechargeable battery pack.
I think for a handlebar mounted light the E115 will replace the Fenix even though the Fenix is another 2000 Lumen light compared to 310 for the E115. It is just way more handy to have it there and it is great for visibility during the day.
I also have a number of other lights and I always have a Zebralight SC600 Mk3 on my belt for general use but it is a third light at night. I take night riding and lights seriously as you can get hurt without plenty of light. It isn't just lumens though but the lens design and the use you put the light to.
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