Rail (625Wh) Rail 7 gen3 rear brake cable routing?

[JariL]

Hi,

I am planning to change SRAM Code Rs to XTs.

Should I remove the motor so that I can cut the zip tie like it is depicted in the left upper corner picture below? 4 = brake cable and 7 = power cable are tied together.

 

[Paulquattro]

I would drop the motor just to make sure its all routed tidy

 

[JariL]

I would drop the motor just to make sure its all routed tidy

Is it difficult or just bolts open? Never done that.

 

[Stihldog]

I would also recommend to drop the motor. Make sure you have the proper size and proper types of Torx sockets and or wrenches. Exposing the motor area gives you an opportunity to make sure that things are tidy.

 

[Stihldog]

Is it difficult or just bolts open? Never done that.

If you decide to drop the motor yourself I would suggest turning the bike upside down. (At least for the first time). Follow any procedures and torque specifications recommended. Identify any cables or wiring in the motor area.

Take your time. The first attempt at dropping the motor may seem overwhelming or confusing but it’s not rocket surgery. Good luck

 

[Paulquattro]

Is it difficult or just bolts open? Never done that.

No as others have said it's easy
Pull the back wheel and take off the motor guard 4 Allen bolts and 6 torx plus bolts holding the motor in
And obviously pull the plugs
I would also recommend pulling the battery out first

 

[Stihldog]

It’s also a good opportunity to cleanup the area and check for any excessive rubbing or wear on any wiring or cables. Cleanup any bolts, reapply blue lock tight and torque to specs.

Basically it’s a lower end service to the motor area that could be costly if you were to take the bike to a LBS. A few special tools may be required but once you have those tools you can avoid some lengthy waits or downtime if you’re sitting in the queue.

But we’re not all bike mechanics and we can only do our best within our limitations. ( I need a bearing extractor and press…and the knowledge to use those tools.)

 

[JariL]

Thank you all for replies. I have quite much experience to fix my bikes generally but Rail is my first ebike and everything related to motor is new to me. It is also only one month old, so need to verify what I am doing

Out of topic:

Next updates in the list are:
- EXT E-Storia installation (moving from Slash)
- Smashpot to Domain so full coil
- Maybe switching wheels from Slash (line elite 30 carbons).
- Maybe switching GX AXS drivertrain from Slash also.

 

[fasterjason]

Good move switching to XT brakes. Go to 170mm travel on fork upgrade. I use Kovee Pro 30s as my race wheelset and they are amazing, especially in tight woods. I plan on getting some Line Pro 30 for everyday use.

I did a frame swap on a Gen2 Rail 7 a couple years ago (cables route on the bottom of the downtube) so it was easy to install the brake line with everything removed. You can remove the entire RIB system from the bottom as one piece if you have to (I don't think you will).

Since you need to pull the motor my recommendations for this project include:
-Take pictures of both sides of the motor for reference
-Remove the battery
-Pull the cranks
-Remove chainring and guide, mainly so you can apply threadlocker to the left-hand lockring and re-torque (face-shaking tight) after reinstalling the motor
-Remove rear wheel
-Remove bash guard
-Buy some torx plus bits and pull the motor
-Check torque on mounting plate bolts. These should be torx plus on the bosch smart motors and not the security penta-lobe bolts that secure the case halves. On the older motors they were all penta-lobe. I had to buy penta-lobe bits
-Remove the main pivot bolt and apply grease and threadlocker unless the shop did during assembly
-Install brake line from back to front (have to with banjo line), keep plug on open end of line while routing to keep dirt out
-Bleed brakes with bleed block
-Install motor, lightly grease contact points, apply threadlocker on frame mounting bolts
-Very lightly grease motor cable plug seals with dielectric grease for water-proofing
-Install rear wheel, then chainguide, chainring, lockring, chain, adjust chainguide, then tighten lockring
-Install cranks and battery
-Check shifting
-Align calipers
-Break-in procedure for brake pads and rotor
-Throw sram brakes in the garbage
-Go ride

 

[JariL]

Good move switching to XT brakes. Go to 170mm travel on fork upgrade. I use Kovee Pro 30s as my race wheelset and they are amazing, especially in tight woods. I plan on getting some Line Pro 30 for everyday use.

I did a frame swap on a Gen2 Rail 7 a couple years ago (cables route on the bottom of the downtube) so it was easy to install the brake line with everything removed. You can remove the entire RIB system from the bottom as one piece if you have to (I don't think you will).

Since you need to pull the motor my recommendations for this project include:
-Take pictures of both sides of the motor for reference
-Remove the battery
-Pull the cranks
-Remove chainring and guide, mainly so you can apply threadlocker to the left-hand lockring and re-torque (face-shaking tight) after reinstalling the motor
-Remove rear wheel
-Remove bash guard
-Buy some torx plus bits and pull the motor
-Check torque on mounting plate bolts. These should be torx plus on the bosch smart motors and not the security penta-lobe bolts that secure the case halves. On the older motors they were all penta-lobe. I had to buy penta-lobe bits
-Remove the main pivot bolt and apply grease and threadlocker unless the shop did during assembly
-Install brake line from back to front (have to with banjo line), keep plug on open end of line while routing to keep dirt out
-Bleed brakes with bleed block
-Install motor, lightly grease contact points, apply threadlocker on frame mounting bolts
-Very lightly grease motor cable plug seals with dielectric grease for water-proofing
-Install rear wheel, then chainguide, chainring, lockring, chain, adjust chainguide, then tighten lockring
-Install cranks and battery
-Check shifting
-Align calipers
-Break-in procedure for brake pads and rotor
-Throw sram brakes in the garbage
-Go ride

Thank you for an amazing recommendations! Really appreciate it!

I am still waiting for my XTs but now I have a full coil Rail, 150mm E-Storia shock and 170mm Smashpot coil fork. Not too many rides yet but feels amazingly good!

 

[fasterjason]

Thank you for an amazing recommendations! Really appreciate it!

I am still waiting for my XTs but now I have a full coil Rail, 150mm E-Storia shock and 170mm Smashpot coil fork. Not too many rides yet but feels amazingly good!

Those are nice suspension upgrades. I installed a fox 38 factory 170mm and DHX2 with 62.5mm stroke paired with 155mm helix cranks. Like you said, it feels amazing.