Questions for Rise M20 owners…

[Ricardo75]

Couple of quick questions for those that have an Orbea Rise M20:

1. I know it has raceface AR 30 rims but what hubs are they mounted to?

2. Anyone updated the 2-pot deore callipers to the 4-pots (6120)? Is it as simple to replace them as swapping them out and bleeding at the lever?

Many thanks!

 

[GMLS]

Nr2.I was expecting to do that but try changing to 203 rotors first.Could well be enough

 

[flash]

2. Anyone updated the 2-pot deore callipers to the 4-pots (6120)? Is it as simple to replace them as swapping them out and bleeding at the lever?

Yes, as long as they are the same connector (straight or banjo) you can swap Shimano brake parts, even different levels (ie: SLX calipers with XT levers.

Bigger rotors and an adaptor will be easier and cheaper though, if you're looking for power. Upgrade to 4 pots to reduce brake fade.

Gordon

 

[Shjay]

The hubs are Shimano MT410 centrelock hubs I rebuilt my wheels on Spank Hex rear hub & DT Swiss 350 front hub I had XD hubs & cassette already & swapped brakes to MT5s I already had also & 220 front & 203 rear rotors I also had

 

[vladej]

I received my Rise M20 a week ago. Hubs are Shimano's centerlock. My bike came with factory upgraded brakes, Deore 4 pot 6120 and I also upgraded the front disk to 203mm in the shop. After first ride I instaled Shimano E7000 display at home.

 

[Ricardo75]

Thanks for the replies.

Which adapters did you you use for the front (fox 34) and rear 203mm rotors?

 

[Rod B.]

Ricardo75,

My M20 which I received in late July 2021, came with Deore M6100 two piston brakes, AR30 Raceface wheelset with centerlock hubs and 180mm centerlock rotors front and rear. I've since changed just about every component on the bike other than the frame, motor and battery.

Those M20's which come with M6100 two piston calipers use Shimano brake hose, SM-BH90-SS. The "SS" signifies a straight fitting at brake lever and a straight fitting at caliper. The only four piston Shimano caliper that accepts a BH90-SS straight fitting brake hose is the Deore M6120 caliper.

All four piston brake calipers above Deore level, i.e. SLX - M7120, XT - M8120, and XTR - M9120, use a SM-BH90-SBM "Banjo" type brake hose. The "SBM" signifies a straight fitting at the brake lever and a crimped "Banjo" type fitting at the caliper. There are non-Shimano brake hose adapters that will convert the BH90-SS straight fitting hose to a banjo type fitting. Personally, I'm not comfortable experimenting around with my brake lines. It's one of those things you don't want to fail.

Shimano has a great compatibility chart which details what works with what components. I learned the hard way to review the chart before buying anything.

2021-2022 SHIMANO Product Information Web

I initially installed SRAM G2 brakes, Ibis 935 carbon wheels with centerlock Torch hubs and 200mm centerlock rotors front and rear. They were taken off of my pedal bike which I could no longer ride due to a severe ankle injury. SRAM doesn't make a speed sensor magnet centerlock rotor. I tried several centerlock adapters, i.e. Specialized and Bosch. None of these worked with the bike. I next superglued a Neodymium rare earth magnet directly onto the SRAM 200mm rotor. This worked nicely, however I found that on rides involving a lot of braking, the rear rotor would get hot and cause the magnet to lose it's magneticity. Rare earth magnets will lose magneticity when subjected to heat and regain magneticity when they cool off. My bike would fault code, the motor would cut out for a few seconds and then kick back in when the magnet cooled off, only to repeat on the next run.

Ultimately I said the hell with it and figured since Shimano designed the whole system, I might as well use Shimano brakes. I ended up replacing my SRAM brakes with Shimano XT M8100 brake levers and M8120 four piston calipers. I also installed a 203mm centerlock rotor up front and a 180mm "Speed sensor magnet" rotor on the rear. No more fault codes, "Yes Virginia there really is a Santa Claus."

If you decide to go with a four piston caliper that utilizes a banjo type fitting, i.e. brake hose SM-BH90-SBM, you will be faced with the dilemma of either using an adapter or replacing the rear brake hose. Replacing the rear brake hose is a real treat. Orbea does not provide a separate cable/hose channel inside the frame in which to push cable/hose through. You will need to fish the brake hose through the head tube, down the down tube, past the battery, transition from the down tube up over the top of the motor, out the top of the frame housing, through the black rubber hose guide and into the rear swing arm where the hose exits near the caliper.

There are a lot of electrical wires in the down tube and motor area. You do not want to forcibly push or yank the brake hose or cable housing through these areas. Tolerances are tight and It would be very easy to damage wiring or create a wiring pinch point. I personally like to drop the motor down a few inches out of the frame, where I let it rest on a padded step stool. I use a combination of Park Tool cable routing tool IR-1.2 and my fingers to manually feed the hose through the frame while ensuring no wires are trapped or pinched inside the frame. Good times...Wahoo!

Fox 34 forks have 160mm caliper post mounts. If you go with a 203mm rotor up front, you will need to use a 160 post mount to 203mm rotor adapter. According to Shimano's compatibility chart you will need adapter SM-MA-F203P/P for the Fox 34 front fork. The rear of the Rise is set up with 180mm post mount. If you go with a 180mm rotor, no adapter is needed. If you decide to go with a 203mm rotor on the rear, you will need adapter SM-MA-F203P/PM.

I switched out the Fox 34 on my M20 and went with a used Fox 36. I found I was pedal striking badly with the Fox 34,140mm travel fork. I weigh 205, so go figure.... When you get tired of pedal strikes, buy a Fox 36. I converted the Fox 36 travel from 150mm to 160mm. I also removed one of the two volume tokens that come with the Fox 36 150mm. According to Fox, the 160mm travel fork comes with one token from the factory. It costs about $35 for a 160mm air shaft assembly and the conversion is easy to do. The travel conversion greatly reduced pedal strikes and the bike handles technical downhill beautifully.

Lastly, I would like to add that I am not a professional bike mechanic and I learned by going hands on with my bikes. I'm new to eBikes and it's definitely been quite the learning curve. I've tried to provide the best possible information in answer to your question. If I am in error, someone please point it out to me. Life is a about learning and we learn from our mistakes just as we learn from our successes.

Be safe,
Rod


Shimano Deore two piston caliper "SM-BH90-SS" straight fitting brake hose

Shimano four piston caliper "SM-BH90-SBM" banjo fitting brake hose

Shimano Brake Adapter Chart

Example of a Fox 36, 180mm post mount to 203mm rotor adapter

An example of the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/P 160mm post mount to 203mm rotor adapter.

 

[Ricardo75]

@Rod B

Wow, what an incredibly comprehensive answer, thanks so much for taking the time to post.

I think I will be switching to the deore 6120 callipers in the first instance for ease given that they are relatively inexpensive.

I also plan to switch to galfer 203mm rotors so it’s really useful to know that I will need a 160mm adapter for the front. I will either get shimano or galfer adapters.

Other than that, I think the only other changes to start with will be saddle and grips (although I will try first in case I get on with the stock items), a DHR2 for the front and switching the dissector to the rear, and possibly a carbon bar.

I don’t suppose you still have the built stock race face wheels? It would be useful to know what they weigh compared to dt Swiss, hunt etc…?

 

[Rod B.]

Ricardo75,

The AR30 wheelset on the M20 comes with Deore centerlock hubs and Shimano "Micro Spline" cassette driver. It's a thick spoked aluminum wheelset and fairly heavy. Unfortunately, I no longer have the wheelset and can't weigh it for you.

 

[CrunchBytes]

My M20 arrived last week so I weighed the front wheel without rotor and tyres whilst I was converting to tubeless (it also came pre-taped, which is nice) and adding a 203 rotor (on a 6-bolt adapter). Weight was 1004g. So it’s slightly heavier than my old Hope Pro 4/Stans Flow Mk3 wheel, which is 929g. I’ve now converted the old front to boost with an MRP boost adapter, so can run some ‘winter’ tyres here in the U.K. (MM). Haven’t weighed the rear yet as it meant taking the cassette and rotor off. Will do when I swap the rear to the rear Hope/Stans wheel.

 

[volts]

Couple of quick questions for those that have an Orbea Rise M20:

1. I know it has raceface AR 30 rims but what hubs are they mounted to?

2. Anyone updated the 2-pot deore callipers to the 4-pots (6120)? Is it as simple to replace them as swapping them out and bleeding at the lever?

Many thanks!

I did a 4pot upgrade and didn't upgrade to SLX or XT on the rear because of the hose connector. So I got the M6120 calipers and just switched to that. The only thing I don't quite like about those is that the pads are held in place with the annoying clip thing and you can't upgrade because there aren't threads for a proper pin.
I also upgraded almost everything else on the bike, so by now I know it pretty well.

 

[E&NonEinCO]

I did a 4pot upgrade and didn't upgrade to SLX or XT on the rear because of the hose connector. So I got the M6120 calipers and just switched to that. The only thing I don't quite like about those is that the pads are held in place with the annoying clip thing and you can't upgrade because there aren't threads for a proper pin.
I also upgraded almost everything else on the bike, so by now I know it pretty well.

Hi Volts,

You can add the threaded bolt and snap ring by using a tap to thread the inner side of the caliper. I did this although I don't remember the thread size and pitch - just search the web and you'll find the spec's.

 

[Ricardo75]

My M20 arrived last week so I weighed the front wheel without rotor and tyres whilst I was converting to tubeless (it also came pre-taped, which is nice) and adding a 203 rotor (on a 6-bolt adapter). Weight was 1004g. So it’s slightly heavier than my old Hope Pro 4/Stans Flow Mk3 wheel, which is 929g. I’ve now converted the old front to boost with an MRP boost adapter, so can run some ‘winter’ tyres here in the U.K. (MM). Haven’t weighed the rear yet as it meant taking the cassette and rotor off. Will do when I swap the rear to the rear Hope/Stans wheel.

That’s interesting about the weight as they don’t sound that heavy for an alloy wheel. I was thinking of upgrading to hunt trail wheels at 1800g the pair…

 

[Underblu]

This is an incredibly well written informative post. Much appreciated.

I bought Code RSC brakes in advance for my M20 as they are the same brakes (Code Rs) I have on my Heckler MX-S. I have to say, after riding the M20 for about 100 miles, I actually like the 6100 brakes. To me, they modulate as well as my SRAM Code Rs with less ”dead space” between first pull and bite. I know they are the budget Shimano brakes but so far I‘m liking them.

To my surprise, I like everything about the Rise M20 with maybe the exception of the junction box and alloy handlebars. I bought MRace Face NEXT 35 Riser Carbon bars and a Shimano SC-8000 but I’m waiting for the adapter. I may replace the Fox34 with a Pike Ultimate but the 34 is pretty nice and the simplified grip settings make on the fly set up much easier.

I would like to get the weight closer to an LTD so maybe some Carbon wheels.

Anyway I hope everyone’s enjoying their Rise. A phenomenal bike IMO.

Ricardo75,

My M20 which I received in late July 2021, came with Deore M6100 two piston brakes, AR30 Raceface wheelset with centerlock hubs and 180mm centerlock rotors front and rear. I've since changed just about every component on the bike other than the frame, motor and battery.

Those M20's which come with M6100 two piston calipers use Shimano brake hose, SM-BH90-SS. The "SS" signifies a straight fitting at brake lever and a straight fitting at caliper. The only four piston Shimano caliper that accepts a BH90-SS straight fitting brake hose is the Deore M6120 caliper.

All four piston brake calipers above Deore level, i.e. SLX - M7120, XT - M8120, and XTR - M9120, use a SM-BH90-SBM "Banjo" type brake hose. The "SBM" signifies a straight fitting at the brake lever and a crimped "Banjo" type fitting at the caliper. There are non-Shimano brake hose adapters that will convert the BH90-SS straight fitting hose to a banjo type fitting. Personally, I'm not comfortable experimenting around with my brake lines. It's one of those things you don't want to fail.

Shimano has a great compatibility chart which details what works with what components. I learned the hard way to review the chart before buying anything.

2021-2022 SHIMANO Product Information Web

I initially installed SRAM G2 brakes, Ibis 935 carbon wheels with centerlock Torch hubs and 200mm centerlock rotors front and rear. They were taken off of my pedal bike which I could no longer ride due to a severe ankle injury. SRAM doesn't make a speed sensor magnet centerlock rotor. I tried several centerlock adapters, i.e. Specialized and Bosch. None of these worked with the bike. I next superglued a Neodymium rare earth magnet directly onto the SRAM 200mm rotor. This worked nicely, however I found that on rides involving a lot of braking, the rear rotor would get hot and cause the magnet to lose it's magneticity. Rare earth magnets will lose magneticity when subjected to heat and regain magneticity when they cool off. My bike would fault code, the motor would cut out for a few seconds and then kick back in when the magnet cooled off, only to repeat on the next run.

Ultimately I said the hell with it and figured since Shimano designed the whole system, I might as well use Shimano brakes. I ended up replacing my SRAM brakes with Shimano XT M8100 brake levers and M8120 four piston calipers. I also installed a 203mm centerlock rotor up front and a 180mm "Speed sensor magnet" rotor on the rear. No more fault codes, "Yes Virginia there really is a Santa Claus."

If you decide to go with a four piston caliper that utilizes a banjo type fitting, i.e. brake hose SM-BH90-SBM, you will be faced with the dilemma of either using an adapter or replacing the rear brake hose. Replacing the rear brake hose is a real treat. Orbea does not provide a separate cable/hose channel inside the frame in which to push cable/hose through. You will need to fish the brake hose through the head tube, down the down tube, past the battery, transition from the down tube up over the top of the motor, out the top of the frame housing, through the black rubber hose guide and into the rear swing arm where the hose exits near the caliper.

There are a lot of electrical wires in the down tube and motor area. You do not want to forcibly push or yank the brake hose or cable housing through these areas. Tolerances are tight and It would be very easy to damage wiring or create a wiring pinch point. I personally like to drop the motor down a few inches out of the frame, where I let it rest on a padded step stool. I use a combination of Park Tool cable routing tool IR-1.2 and my fingers to manually feed the hose through the frame while ensuring no wires are trapped or pinched inside the frame. Good times...Wahoo!

Fox 34 forks have 160mm caliper post mounts. If you go with a 203mm rotor up front, you will need to use a 160 post mount to 203mm rotor adapter. According to Shimano's compatibility chart you will need adapter SM-MA-F203P/P for the Fox 34 front fork. The rear of the Rise is set up with 180mm post mount. If you go with a 180mm rotor, no adapter is needed. If you decide to go with a 203mm rotor on the rear, you will need adapter SM-MA-F203P/PM.

I switched out the Fox 34 on my M20 and went with a used Fox 36. I found I was pedal striking badly with the Fox 34,140mm travel fork. I weigh 205, so go figure.... When you get tired of pedal strikes, buy a Fox 36. I converted the Fox 36 travel from 150mm to 160mm. I also removed one of the two volume tokens that come with the Fox 36 150mm. According to Fox, the 160mm travel fork comes with one token from the factory. It costs about $35 for a 160mm air shaft assembly and the conversion is easy to do. The travel conversion greatly reduced pedal strikes and the bike handles technical downhill beautifully.

Lastly, I would like to add that I am not a professional bike mechanic and I learned by going hands on with my bikes. I'm new to eBikes and it's definitely been quite the learning curve. I've tried to provide the best possible information in answer to your question. If I am in error, someone please point it out to me. Life is a about learning and we learn from our mistakes just as we learn from our successes.

Be safe,
Rod


Shimano Deore two piston caliper "SM-BH90-SS" straight fitting brake hose

View attachment 74768


Shimano four piston caliper "SM-BH90-SBM" banjo fitting brake hose
View attachment 74769

Shimano Brake Adapter Chart
View attachment 74770


Example of a Fox 36, 180mm post mount to 203mm rotor adapter
View attachment 74771


An example of the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/P 160mm post mount to 203mm rotor adapter.
View attachment 74772

 

[Rod B.]

Underblu,

The SC-E8000 display is not compatible with the Rise's EP8 motor. The SC-EM800 (Color display) or SC-E7000 (Black & White display) will work with the Rise.

I initially bought the SC-E8000 and installed it. The EP8 system on the Rise won't recognize the display. Fortunately, my local bike shop let me take it back. I ended up getting the SC-E7000 black & White display which is slightly cheaper than the SC-EM800 color display.

You do not need an adapter or anything else to mount a Shimano display on the Rise. Everything you need is on the bike. Several months back, I wrote a post about mounting a SC-E7000 or SC-EM800 display on the Rise. I did made one error in my initial post. Refer to posts #4 and # 5 in the thread, which correct the error.

Orbea Rise - Shimano SC-E7000 Display Installation - EMTB Forums

I recently installed a Shimano SC-E7000 display on my Rise. When researching the project, I found there wasn't much information available online on how to install a Shimano display on an Orbea Rise. I thought I would post my thoughts and experiences on the matter to help others who are also...

www.emtbforums.com

To use the SC-E7000 display, simply mount it on the bars, remove the black box and plug the black box's two cable leads into the SC-E7000 display. To use a SC-EM800 display, the process is a bit more mechanically involved. You will have to drop your fork to gain access to the wiring bundle tucked away in the junction between the Head Tube and Down Tube. My installation post discusses why this is required.

I agree with you about the Deore two piston brakes. I was surprised by the amount of stopping power they have. Shimano didn't do the rider any favors when they used a cotter key to retain the brake pads on the Deore caliper. Talk about a noisy ass brake caliper.

Ultimately, you have to ask yourself what do you want to do with your bike? Before my accident (I destroyed my ankle), I had a Yeti SB130. I had the bike's weight down to 26 pounds. This was great for pedaling and tossing the bike about. I'm totally new to eBikes. I find I'm not worried about weight so much anymore. Don't get me wrong, It's definitively a motivating factor, but I find I now consider the component more than I do it's weight. As an example, my M20 came with a very light Fox DPS. I installed a 2022 Fox Float X in it's place. It's a heavier but a much much better shock. I like to ride technical trails. I found I was occasionally bottoming out the motor case and pedal striking in the chunk. The Fox 34 worked well, it's just wasn't the right fork for the trails I ride. When I went with the heavier Fox 36 and increased travel to 160mm, I found this really suited the Rise well. I haven't had a pedal or motor strike since going to 160mm of travel. The bike handles even better on the downhill now and I haven't noticed a decline in handling on the climbs. I've never owned a Pike fork. I know it's an excellent fork and lighter than a Fox 36, but I wonder how flexy it might be at say 160mm of travel?

 

[Underblu]

I have the SC-EM800. I sometimes get Shimano’s nomenclature confused.

I don’t ride anything that gnarly so I’ll see how the stock suspension holds up. I do prefer the Pike on my Heckler to the Fox34 but the FOX Grip is very easy to adjust.

I did read your follow up on the Sc-EM800., I’m still thinking the adaptor might make it easier than dropping the fork and fishing for the smaller connector. My LBS looked at it an ordered the adapter.

I have to say though for me, the Rise is nearly the perfect bike. Geometry, weight, it just fits. And there’s plenty of power in the EP8-RS.

At some point I might do a full XT or AXS upgrade but for now I’m just enjoying the bike as is. Maybe I’ll use the Code RSCs on my Heckler as an upgrade to the Code Rs. I don’t want their to be any issues with the Shimano Rotors and the SRAM calipers.

i hope you keep us posted with regard to your Rise. They are highly enjoyable and informative posts.

Underblu,

The SC-E8000 display is not compatible with the Rise's EP8 motor. The SC-EM800 (Color display) or SC-E7000 (Black & White display) will work with the Rise.

Underblu,

The SC-E8000 display is not compatible with the Rise's EP8 motor. The SC-EM800 (Color display) or SC-E7000 (Black & White display) will work with the Rise.

I initially bought the SC-E8000 and installed it. The EP8 system on the Rise won't recognize the display. Fortunately, my local bike shop let me take it back. I ended up getting the SC-E7000 black & White display which is slightly cheaper than the SC-EM800 color display.

You do not need an adapter or anything else to mount a Shimano display on the Rise. Everything you need is on the bike. Several months back, I wrote a post about mounting a SC-E7000 or SC-EM800 display on the Rise. I did made one error in my initial post. Refer to posts #4 and # 5 in the thread, which correct the error.

Orbea Rise - Shimano SC-E7000 Display Installation - EMTB Forums

I recently installed a Shimano SC-E7000 display on my Rise. When researching the project, I found there wasn't much information available online on how to install a Shimano display on an Orbea Rise. I thought I would post my thoughts and experiences on the matter to help others who are also...

www.emtbforums.com

To use the SC-E7000 display, simply mount it on the bars, remove the black box and plug the black box's two cable leads into the SC-E7000 display. To use a SC-EM800 display, the process is a bit more mechanically involved. You will have to drop your fork to gain access to the wiring bundle tucked away in the junction between the Head Tube and Down Tube. My installation post discusses why this is required.

I agree with you about the Deore two piston brakes. I was surprised by the amount of stopping power they have. Shimano didn't do the rider any favors when they used a cotter key to retain the brake pads on the Deore caliper. Talk about a noisy ass brake caliper.

Ultimately, you have to ask yourself what do you want to do with your bike? Before my accident (I destroyed my ankle), I had a Yeti SB130. I had the bike's weight down to 26 pounds. This was great for pedaling and tossing the bike about. I'm totally new to eBikes. I find I'm not worried about weight so much anymore. Don't get me wrong, It's definitively a motivating factor, but I find I now consider the component more than I do it's weight. As an example, my M20 came with a very light Fox DPS. I installed a 2022 Fox Float X in it's place. It's a heavier but a much much better shock. I like to ride technical trails. I found I was occasionally bottoming out the motor case and pedal striking in the chunk. The Fox 34 worked well, it's just wasn't the right fork for the trails I ride. When I went with the heavier Fox 36 and increased travel to 160mm, I found this really suited the Rise well. I haven't had a pedal or motor strike since going to 160mm of travel. The bike handles even better on the downhill now and I haven't noticed a decline in handling on the climbs. I've never owned a Pike fork. I know it's an excellent fork and lighter than a Fox 36, but I wonder how flexy it might be at say 160mm of travel?

I initially bought the SC-E8000 and installed it. The EP8 system on the Rise won't recognize the display. Fortunately, my local bike shop let me take it back. I ended up getting the SC-E7000 black & White display which is slightly cheaper than the SC-EM800 color display.

You do not need an adapter or anything else to mount a Shimano display on the Rise. Everything you need is on the bike. Several months back, I wrote a post about mounting a SC-E7000 or SC-EM800 display on the Rise. I did made one error in my initial post. Refer to posts #4 and # 5 in the thread, which correct the error.

Orbea Rise - Shimano SC-E7000 Display Installation - EMTB Forums

I recently installed a Shimano SC-E7000 display on my Rise. When researching the project, I found there wasn't much information available online on how to install a Shimano display on an Orbea Rise. I thought I would post my thoughts and experiences on the matter to help others who are also...

www.emtbforums.com

To use the SC-E7000 display, simply mount it on the bars, remove the black box and plug the black box's two cable leads into the SC-E7000 display. To use a SC-EM800 display, the process is a bit more mechanically involved. You will have to drop your fork to gain access to the wiring bundle tucked away in the junction between the Head Tube and Down Tube. My installation post discusses why this is required.

I agree with you about the Deore two piston brakes. I was surprised by the amount of stopping power they have. Shimano didn't do the rider any favors when they used a cotter key to retain the brake pads on the Deore caliper. Talk about a noisy ass brake caliper.

Ultimately, you have to ask yourself what do you want to do with your bike? Before my accident (I destroyed my ankle), I had a Yeti SB130. I had the bike's weight down to 26 pounds. This was great for pedaling and tossing the bike about. I'm totally new to eBikes. I find I'm not worried about weight so much anymore. Don't get me wrong, It's definitively a motivating factor, but I find I now consider the component more than I do it's weight. As an example, my M20 came with a very light Fox DPS. I installed a 2022 Fox Float X in it's place. It's a heavier but a much much better shock. I like to ride technical trails. I found I was occasionally bottoming out the motor case and pedal striking in the chunk. The Fox 34 worked well, it's just wasn't the right fork for the trails I ride. When I went with the heavier Fox 36 and increased travel to 160mm, I found this really suited the Rise well. I haven't had a pedal or motor strike since going to 160mm of travel. The bike handles even better on the downhill now and I haven't noticed a decline in handling on the climbs. I've never owned a Pike fork. I know it's an excellent fork and lighter than a Fox 36, but I wonder how flexy it might be at say 160mm of travel?

 

[Rod B.]

Underblu,

The Rise is an awesome bike right out of the box. I absolutely love it. If you live near Orange County Calif., I'd be happy to help you drop the fork and do the display install.

I have yet to install a SC-EM800 display however, I believe if you don't drop the fork, you will need to buy two EW-AD305 adapters and two short 150mm length SD300 wire leads. It takes forever to get stuff nowadays. I hate to wait for something on order and then find out I need to order something else.

 

[Underblu]

Thanks Rod, I appreciate the offer. The OC coast is beautiful. Especially Laguna Beach. One of my favorite spots. Given the topography, I bet there are some great open trails there. Salute!

Underblu,

The Rise is an awesome bike right out of the box. I absolutely love it. If you live near Orange County Calif., I'd be happy to help you drop the fork and do the display install.

I have yet to install a SC-EM800 display however, I believe if you don't drop the fork, you will need to buy two EW-AD305 adapters and two short 150mm length SD300 wire leads. It takes forever to get stuff nowadays. I hate to wait for something on order and then find out I need to order something else.

 

[Rod B.]

Underblu,

Laguna has some awesome riding. If you find yourself visiting the area with your bike, shoot me an email and we can do a ride. The only downside to much of Orange County and Laguna riding, i.e. Laguna Wilderness, Aliso Woods, Santiago Oaks, Whiting Ranch, Chino Hills State Park, etc. is they do not allow eBikes on trails. You typically don't encounter a park ranger on the trail, but you have to roll the dice with the possibility of getting a ticket if you are caught on a trail.