Pedal strikes with new shock - adjust technique or shock?

[Pdoz]

I upgraded the shock in my levo sl from the fox dps to a rock shox superdeluxe ultimate - it's amazing , etc, etc, but I've started clipping my inside foot mid corner ( uphill only) . Just light clips, no true pedal strikes , but I hadn't touched ground for a year and now it's 3/4 a ride. Should I be working on suspension adjustment or just technique ? I'm 95 kg, running 25% sag, 3rd slowest rebound, 3 rd fastest compression - about 280 psi , flip chip low setting. It's mm tune, I value comfort over performance

I don't think it's JUST because my brain / skill can't keep up with the increase in cornering speed , but if it's that simple I'll just try a bit harder with technique. I have noticed the extra rear traction has me weighting the front more in search of front traction - slow down a bit? Perhaps try the high flip chip position to sharpen up the steering?

The strikes go away if I leave the rct dial in the middle, which might also be an easy solution - only open it up for long down hills?
There is plenty of scope to wind up slow speed compression , but it loses some magic with each click and I'm REALY enjoying the current settings down hill. It's been a year since I could keep up with my daughter !!! Did I mention this shock is amazing?

I'm actually running LESS sag than I did on the dps (25% vs 30% ) , but admittedly I was running the largest token in the dps - logic tells me to either add tokens or invest in the megneg , but this shock is so bloody amazing I don't want to stuff up a good thing when I just need to be told to ride better.

 

[Gary]

Technique.

Your new shock may well still need some fine tuning to get it performing just how you want BUT... pedal strikes are still a visual spacial coordination, timing and forward planning issue. no matter how low your BB is.

Obviously run the shock in the pedal position when climbing if you prefer the extra midstroke support and less rear suspension movement. rather than to limit pedal strikes you are getting from poor crank position and planning.

The only time I ever use the pedal position on any of my bikes is if purely jumping (rather than trail riding or enduro) on my enduro bike for more support on lips.

 

[Pdoz]

Thanks Gary, I might not be explaining what's happening - the strikes are mid corner up hill . So if anything it might be my poor cornering technique showing up now that I have more rear traction ? Ie I'm not clipping rocks , just touching down as I apex????? But I'll put more effort into technique before trying to hide poor technique with poor suspension adjustment - thanks

 

[Gary]

yeah, it definitely is.
When cornering uphill you need to allow for a little more pedal clearance as the bike is being leaned over.
You can do this by either conciously not leaning the bike over as much when initiating the turn. Or by timing your pedal strokes so whenyour inside pedal is passing the lowest point your bike isn't in the apex (or wherever it is most leat over) , Or by first gaining enough momentum for the turn that you don't need to pedal through it.
If a corner is littered with rocks/roots/compressions etc. a more advanced technique you can employ through some uphill corners is to perform a short pivoted pedal wheelie while turning. not only does this give you more pedal clearance. it allows you to place your front wheel exactly where you want it.

Ps. if it's just a slight glance of your pedal on the ground you're just a few mm off judging perfect amount of clearance you actually have. Being able to judge your pedal clearance at any point is definitely a skill worth putting effort into learning

 

[RustyIron]

Hey, @Pdoz.
First of all, adjust your suspension in a manner to keep your tires ON the ground, not to keep your pedals OFF the ground. Forget everything else.

Other than that, it's hard to give specific advice without seeing what you're riding and how you're riding it. DO NOT get obsessed about pedal strikes. No one who rides the rough stuff has pedals that are not banged up.

If you're riding groomed bike paths, then just pay attention to how far you lean in relation to your pedal stroke. Even if you bang up the pedals, you're still doing better than the guy with shiny pedals who doesn't clear the switchback.

If you're rolling through fields of boulders, just keep doing what you're doing and you'll improve incrementally. Pedal strikes are inevitable, but rest assured that top-shelf pedals and cranks can take a lot of abuse.

Pedal strikes don't make you a bad rider.
No pedal strikes doesn't make you a good rider.

 

[7869hodgy]

I have never had a pedal strike on my ebike but have plenty on my non-ebike.

I ride pretty much the same trails on both bikes(just longer versions on the e).

I thought it was simply pedal length and BB clearance with a bit of bad timed pedalling.

 

[Pdoz]

I have never had a pedal strike on my ebike but have plenty on my non-ebike.

I ride pretty much the same trails on both bikes(just longer versions on the e).

I thought it was simply pedal length and BB clearance with a bit of bad timed pedalling.

I'm the opposite, although I wasn't tackling black uphills on the mebike , plus I'm a LOT slower in lazy lard mode.

 

[Levo Laland]

I believe the stock compression tune on the Superdeluxe is Medium, where as it is Firm on the Specialized spec'd DPS. This may be contributing to your issues, increasing pedal bob etc. If all the basic settings, sag etc. are as you like them, you may need to change the compression tune or use the climb switch in some situations.

 

[Marcm]

I'm new to all this pedalling but found myself trying ride up on the edges of Moto ruts a bit and look ahead for the bigger rocks and pass with pedals half up...think every day a learning experience....
The rain ruts can be the biggest here though in some places...up to waist nearly..ha ha....

 

[Mr President]

I upgraded the shock in my levo sl from the fox dps to a rock shox superdeluxe ultimate - it's amazing , etc, etc, but I've started clipping my inside foot mid corner ( uphill only) . Just light clips, no true pedal strikes , but I hadn't touched ground for a year and now it's 3/4 a ride. Should I be working on suspension adjustment or just technique ? I'm 95 kg, running 25% sag, 3rd slowest rebound, 3 rd fastest compression - about 280 psi , flip chip low setting. It's mm tune, I value comfort over performance

I don't think it's JUST because my brain / skill can't keep up with the increase in cornering speed , but if it's that simple I'll just try a bit harder with technique. I have noticed the extra rear traction has me weighting the front more in search of front traction - slow down a bit? Perhaps try the high flip chip position to sharpen up the steering?

The strikes go away if I leave the rct dial in the middle, which might also be an easy solution - only open it up for long down hills?
There is plenty of scope to wind up slow speed compression , but it loses some magic with each click and I'm REALY enjoying the current settings down hill. It's been a year since I could keep up with my daughter !!! Did I mention this shock is amazing?

I'm actually running LESS sag than I did on the dps (25% vs 30% ) , but admittedly I was running the largest token in the dps - logic tells me to either add tokens or invest in the megneg , but this shock is so bloody amazing I don't want to stuff up a good thing when I just need to be told to ride better.

megneg is definitely not the way to go solve your issue. I have installed one on my more basic shock and it has improved grip, but definitely left me lower in the travel

 

[Pdoz]

I believe the stock compression tune on the Superdeluxe is Medium, where as it is Firm on the Specialized spec'd DPS. This may be contributing to your issues, increasing pedal bob etc. If all the basic settings, sag etc. are as you like them, you may need to change the compression tune or use the climb switch in some situations.

Thanks, I left it in climb last ride and no strikes. Not quite as magical, but still a LOT better than the dps . Meanwhile I'm working on technique and hope to be able to open that lever in a few weeks

I'm really surprised how much faster I am uphill with this shock. There's an intermediate climbing track nearby that goes up 30 m in about 700 m - easy switchbacks with loose gravel, nothing too technical , designed for conventional bikes. My 13 yo son would leave me for dead on the full fat giant , yet now I'm waiting for him! ( not bad for a fat old fart on a levo sl ! ) . On reflection, all those tree roots and little rocks were sapping speed , yet now I just seem to float over them.

 

[Konanige]

Use the climb switch, that's what its for! All suspension systems are a compromise, if its super plush down hill then it'll be a bit crap at climbing and vice versa. You can improve your skills to reduce pedal strikes but they are just a fact of life, and will always be there.

 

[Singletrackmind]

Technique is definitely a factor, had to adjust mine a little since transitioning to emtbs only. You may want to try 160mm cranks. My new Yeti 160e came with them and I couldn't tell the difference between them and 165mm. Installed a new coil shock on my Decoy and switched my cranks to 160mm at the same time and it really helped.