Pedal Strikes and Pedal length - Your views

[Tui]

Hi there. I have been a member of this forum for a while and dont post very often but enjoy reading the various topics that all you guys (and Gals) get ont to.
Here is my issue and Im hoping that some of you experienced riders and boffins out there can help me.
Since I got my Merida E160 900E in 2018, I find that i am experiencing a lot more pedal strikes than I did on my old Manual Cube sting, despite there being quite a good ground clearance. I wondered if the pedals cranks on an e bike were longer than those on a regular bike but thought that (due to the principles of leverage) and the electric assistance, e bike pedal cranks would be shorter!!! A straw poll amongst my friends with e bikes reveal that the ground clearance on our , full suspension bikes, is within a few mm of each other as are motor centre to ground distance, pedal crank length and pedal centre (in the crank pointing vertically downwards) to ground distance.
These strikes only occur when off road in forests and woods etc and more often than not, when I am turning or banked over slightly. I suspect it is because I am trying to keep the power on in the twisty bits where before I would always keep my inside pedal high and out of the way. I was wondering if any of you had experienced an increase in pedal strikes, or had any opinions to offer? Some pics attached to help with my question. Tui.

 

[RickBullotta]

I'm going to suggest it is more technique than components or geometry. Your bike is actually slightly taller than my Santa Cruz Hightower, and it appears that you already have 170mm cranks. The only other thing I could think of is if your sag is set too large and the bike is squatting too much.

 

[Tui]

Ha Ha. Thank you for that. That is a real possibility.

 

[Konanige]

Definitely lay off pedalling when cranked over, thats a surefire way to get sent out the side door!! My normally aspirated bike is 10mm lower than my eeb and the cranks are 5mm longer so not having issues myself, could be as above too much sag, or maybe its the size of the platform, Burgtecs are pretty wide so more likely to ground when cranked over.

 

[Gary]

Can you even see what terrain lies ahead over all the crap lovely accessories you have attached to the front?

As you've found, your bike doesn't have a particularly low BB for a 160mm travel 27.5 FS mtb.
The Shimano steps system also doesn't use a different Q factor from normal bikes and your Burgtecs don't actually extend all that far from the crank (because of their extremely short axles)

when I am turning or banked over slightly. I suspect it is because I am trying to keep the power on in the twisty bits where before I would always keep my inside pedal high and out of the way.

 

[PhilBaker]

You could get slightly smaller crank arms, there are some good videos on you tube comparing them discussing the pro's and con's.

 

[Mini si]

Can you even see what terrain lies ahead over all the crap lovely accessories you have attached to the front?

As you've found, your bike doesn't have a particularly low BB for a 160mm travel 27.5 FS mtb.
The Shimano steps system also doesn't use a different Q factor from normal bikes and your Burgtecs don't actually extend all that far from the crank (because of their extremely short axles)

I agree with Columbo and I think you’ve hit the nail on the head yourself already, even though it’s an obvious one I also found it tricky to stop peddling all the time when I got my eBike but it’ll save you some money (for no real results in the pedal strike department) if you do.

Just one more thing...

 

[flash]

On my Merida e160-900 I was getting exactly the same thing. Many pedal strikes due to applying power out of turns too early. My technique was poor and a small change to my riding would fix the issue easily. The right solution and free too.

Instead I put on a pair if 155mm cranks and kept riding like the poorly trained bunyip I am. Reduced my pedal strikes by 90%. Happy Gordon. #uphillflow

Gordon

 

[Rosemount]

A controversial subject .
Some say it`s all technique . But ,,, Specialized put shorter cranks on their new model Levo .

Being aware of where you are putting your feet helps . But some times shit happens . And you might glance a rock . LOL .

 

[BobR]

I was striking the pedal a lot and then I reduced the sag in my rear shock and problem solved... I strike less now on my ebike than I do on my analog.

 

[Mini si]

On my Merida e160-900 I was getting exactly the same thing. Many pedal strikes due to applying power out of turns too early. My technique was poor and a small change to my riding would fix the issue easily. The right solution and free too.

Instead I put on a pair if 155mm cranks and kept riding like the poorly trained bunyip I am. Reduced my pedal strikes by 90%. Happy Gordon. #uphillflow

Gordon

Ah well 90% results doesn’t sound too bad! (If I’ve understood correctly)? Better get your hand in your pocket ?

 

[Sidepod]

Just playing Devil's avocdo here but, I think I've had three pedal strikes in my entire life! Is it a spatial awareness thing?

 

[BobR]

Just playing Devil's avocdo here but, I think I've had three pedal strikes in my entire life! Is it a spatial awareness thing?

I don’t know what an avocado has to do with it but that is a part of it for sure... new trails, new larger pedals, new bike, sag setting, getting older and eyes not quite as sharp as they use to be ?

 

[steve_sordy]

That 82mm ground clearance is actually only 73mm after half the pedal thickness is taken into account. Then that too is reduced by another 48mm after 30% sag on your 160 travel bike. That leaves you with 25mm, or even less if your speed on a corner is depressing the suspension further!!! You don't have to lean over much to catch the ground with that amount of clearance! So stop pedalling when leaning over and maintain awareness of where stumps and rocks are so that even on the level you don't hit one.

 

[Sidepod]

Convert to clip less and run some small pedals as opposed to those enormous platforms. That should buy you some clearance.

 

[steve_sordy]

Convert to clip less and run some small pedals as opposed to those enormous platforms. That should buy you some clearance.

No good unless he changes his pedalling style, he will just catch his foot instead.

 

[Mini si]

No good unless he changes his pedalling style, he will just catch his foot instead.

Haha, I can vouch for that!! ?

 

[Tui]

Thank you all for your replies. Some good advice in there which I will mull over. Much appreciated. Tui

 

[Eddy Current]

One benefit you get from motors such Bosch or Brose that is overrun kick you don’t have in Shimano once you stop pedaling, it avoids many pedal strikes. On ebikes high bb kinda sucks for obvious reasons. Trump 2024 Magaa. Regards.

 

[Gary]

Shimano motors also have overrun Ed

 

[Eddy Current]

Shimano motors also have overrun Ed

But not as much Tho.And definitely need more pedal motion wich also is no bueno in this issue. Bosch is just like push a nitro button.

Personally I hate short cranks and high bb, in my Rocky 330bb on low position, 170 cranks and no overrun at all pedal strikes happens often but i ride for the descents. Pedal strike is 1 seconds and happens from time to time, I don’t care honestly won’t sacrifice a whole descend for that and I don’t recommend nobody to do it

 

[Gary]

But not as much Tho.And definitely need more pedal motion wich also is no bueno in this issue. Bosch is just like push a nitro button.

Which also makes the bosch motor far less natural feeling to ride.. And as someone who rides normal bikes more than Ebikes that's, a massive downside.

330bb on low position, 170 cranks and no overrun at all pedal strikes happens often

Now now Ed... Let's not get carried away... MY Vitus has a lower BB than your RM and I don't get pedal strikes with my Shimano motor. (My normal 170mm Enduro mtb and DH bikes are actually a good bit lower so I've been well used to actual low BB heights for a long time) .
Not getting pedal strikes is about planning ahead, crank placement and foot coordination. Not relying on motor over run.

As you know I too dislike super short cranks and high BBs

 

[Gordon]

On my Merida e160-900 I was getting exactly the same thing. Many pedal strikes due to applying power out of turns too early. My technique was poor and a small change to my riding would fix the issue easily. The right solution and free too.

Instead I put on a pair if 155mm cranks and kept riding like the poorly trained bunyip I am. Reduced my pedal strikes by 90%. Happy Gordon. #uphillflow

Gordon

I switched to 150mm cranks from the original 165mm because of a torn cartilage and inability to flex my knee beyond 90⁰. On my Turbo Levo there's no noticeable difference in lack of power and it certainly did decrease pedal strikes. The downside is that I had to raise the seat 15mm to get the same pedal stroke length and this raised the center of gravity 15mm as well, which results in a higher ride position and using less power to keep the front end on the ground during really steep climbs.

 

[Binhill1]

Thank you all for your replies. Some good advice in there which I will mull over. Much appreciated. Tui

Also the bikes are heavier they will go down further if sag not set right . I had loads to start with but mainly on technical stuff climbing. I'm 15 plus stone if I honk down a big short dip you feel the bounce and yes if pedal is in wrong place you will do damage.

 

[Swissrider]

No good unless he changes his pedalling style, he will just catch his foot instead.

I beg to differ. I use flats in winter so I can wear warmer boots and go clipless for the rest of the year. I get far fewer pedal strikes with the smaller clipless pedals, because flats extend wider than most shoes or boots and the sides catch, particularly on narrow trails cut into a steep slope when it’s easy to catch the pedal on the uphill slope. The usual technique of delaying pedalling to avoid a rock or root or leaning the bike over in a corner doesn’t work in this situation. Anyway, everything I’ve read says shorter cranks do help prevent strikes whatever the disadvantages of shorter cranks.

 

[Swissrider]

Which also makes the bosch motor far less natural feeling to ride.. And as someone who rides normal bikes more than Ebikes that's, a massive downside.


Now now Ed... Let's not get carried away... MY Vitus has a lower BB than your RM and I don't get pedal strikes with my Shimano motor. (My normal 170mm Enduro mtb and DH bikes are actually a good bit lower so I've been well used to actual low BB heights for a long time) .
Not getting pedal strikes is about planning ahead, crank placement and foot coordination. Not relying on motor over run.

As you know I too dislike super short cranks and high BBs

I have ebikes with both Bosch and Brose. I find both amazingly natural and I like the overrun. As well as helping to avoid pedal strikes, it also means one can succeed on a steep and technical ascent as the bike keeps going when one has to pause pedalling. An analogue bike would just ground to a halt unless one gives a really strong stroke before the step or whatever but that in itself causes other problems like rear wheel slip.

 

[kendo]

Hi there. I have been a member of this forum for a while and dont post very often but enjoy reading the various topics that all you guys (and Gals) get ont to.
Here is my issue and Im hoping that some of you experienced riders and boffins out there can help me.
Since I got my Merida E160 900E in 2018, I find that i am experiencing a lot more pedal strikes than I did on my old Manual Cube sting, despite there being quite a good ground clearance. I wondered if the pedals cranks on an e bike were longer than those on a regular bike but thought that (due to the principles of leverage) and the electric assistance, e bike pedal cranks would be shorter!!! A straw poll amongst my friends with e bikes reveal that the ground clearance on our , full suspension bikes, is within a few mm of each other as are motor centre to ground distance, pedal crank length and pedal centre (in the crank pointing vertically downwards) to ground distance.
These strikes only occur when off road in forests and woods etc and more often than not, when I am turning or banked over slightly. I suspect it is because I am trying to keep the power on in the twisty bits where before I would always keep my inside pedal high and out of the way. I was wondering if any of you had experienced an increase in pedal strikes, or had any opinions to offer? Some pics attached to help with my question. Tui.

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Forget all your measuring, get yourself a pair of Miranda 155mm SH Delta's cranks, If you are a short ass, you can get 150mm. I'm 5'7". I have had them on three ebikes which came with 165mm cranks...end of pedal strikes and I ride full on downhill enduro. If you are using 170mm cranks it will be a nightmare as I know you will be pedal striking constantly..as I say Miranda 155mm. Trust me I know what I'm talking about. ?

 

[TXHookey]

I believe rider weight and speed weigh into it. I rarely get pedal strikes on my non-emtb. Same sag, same pedal clearance. I do get more pedal strikes on my emtb. I find my self hitting turns on my non-emtb with my weight balanced. For some reason, I find myself really weighting the bike in the turns and taking them faster. I'm not sure the reason, but I weigh 225 and usually wear a 10 pound back pack so when I load the suspension in a fast turn, it does compress significantly. I've thought about shorter cranks but the strikes are light enough it just slightly unloads the suspension without kicking the bike out from under me. Maybe preloading before the turn and getting light on the bike in the turn?

 

[Mr President]

I also got more pedal strikes on my EMTB. My Whyte is meant to be long low slack etc..... but the increase in strikes did concern me. I am clearly going much faster on the flat and when climbing ie when pedalling and wonder if the extra speed and acceleration come into play.
I swapped to the Hope 155mm cranks and have seen a big decrease in the amount of pedal strikes encountered