Parts for Shimano E8000 motor - lead from battery to motor.

[High Rock Ruti]

High Rock Ruti

Sweet looking fix, I'd want to have the computer connected to see what it says, y

Would the 5A rating not be per pin? So assuming doubled up, would give 10A continuous draw?

High Rock Ruti

The pins of the new connector look as big as the old pins? Perhaps it's the Guage of the wire? Again take it to a shop and get it plugged in the computer will at least eliminate many potential causes even it if fails to diagnose the problem. For what ever it's worth my electrical experience has been that mechanical problems with the wire is most often the problem.

Warm Regards

Ruti

 

[Mikerb]

You found damage on that connector but have you identified how that damage occured..........and therefore what else may be damaged that is causing you lack of power on? To damage that connector either it took a direct hit or the cable connected to it was in some way tugged....so I would be checking the connections at the other end of that cable and testing the cable for continuity end to end.

 

[Lovely]

We have bypassed the connector, and soldered the wires directly. The frame battery comes on and stays on. There is 7.9volts going to the computer display on the handlebars, but it will not power up or activate. There is a small crack in the screen that has been there since I got the bike. We were hoping to find out if anyone's knows - does the sc-e8000 computer gets its power from its own internal battery? Or is it powered by the frame mounted battery. Many thanks again.

 

[Spiff]

We have bypassed the connector, and soldered the wires directly. The frame battery comes on and stays on. There is 7.9volts going to the computer display on the handlebars, but it will not power up or activate. There is a small crack in the screen that has been there since I got the bike. We were hoping to find out if anyone's knows - does the sc-e8000 computer gets its power from its own internal battery? Or is it powered by the frame mounted battery. Many thanks again.

Display does not have an internal battery, it gets powered from the frame mounted battery.

 

[Lovely]

Oh, I see, it's just that the Shimano sc-e8000 spec sheet has a tick for 'inside battery'.

 

[Spiff]

I do not know which spec you are reading, but display does not have an internal battery. MAnuals are here:

Manuals & Technical Documents

 

[Lovely]

Computer opened and there was a CP open circuit that has been replaced. Computer powered from the port, the internal battery is just a backup. There are 3 little PSU's on the board and the one that supplies the microprocessor is short. May have got a surge from the connector. So now I need a new SC-E8000, who has one for sale???

 

[High Rock Ruti]

Computer opened and there was a CP open circuit that has been replaced. Computer powered from the port, the internal battery is just a backup. There are 3 little PSU's on the board and the one that supplies the microprocessor is short. May have got a surge from the connector. So now I need a new SC-E8000, who has one for sale???

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High Rock Ruti

"To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before"

BRAVO

Warm Regards

Ruti
Nice pictures

 

[Lovely]

All kudos goes to Michael the Electrician who succeeded in opening a cracked display without causing further physical damage, and who also diagnosed the issue and took the photys

 

[Lovely]

My new SC-E8000 computer arrived yesterday, and I was very hopeful. But when we connected it up and turned on the battery nothing happened. The computer failed to power up. Does anyone know how many volts should be coming from the signal wire to the computer from the motor?
Our only avenue left to check is to open the motor and examine the electrical connections there. I removed the cranks and set about loosening all the torx screws around the motor on the battery lead connection side. Off course all but one one loosened for me, so now I have the added frustration of a screw head that may be rounded beyond opening. I am really starting to despair with this product, any help would be greatly appreciated as usual.

 

[Alamen1]

Does anyone have an actual part number they have ordered in and used to replace this connection that works? I am looking for a connection that would be a square plate 4 posts as original except that all 4 connections are solid and the main harness connector threads onto the plate connector to eliminate any chance of debris or water getting into the connection.

I currently have a warranty claim going with Shimano Canada and they think they have the original motor plate connector to send me to replace the one with the broken pin. Sounds awesome, but it is a problem waiting to happen again. The communication wires are so small and flimsy I am shocked that anyone in their right mind thought this was a good solution for a connector that is hard to line up when mounted in the bike frame. I am a machine and fabrication Manager and have made parts for Boeing, AFCC Mercedes Benz hydrogen fuel cell division, Sikorsky attack helicopters just to name a few. I would be in the engineer's office in a heartbeat telling them to pull their head out of it and get a better connection.

So please I am looking for real-world part numbers and manufacturer names THAT work. Thank you so kindly in advance for any help given in case they tell me I have to eat my warranty.

 

[Lovely]

I did a lot of searching on the net to no avail for that part or any details about it, sorry.
May I ask if you know how yours broke? That connection looks as though it is fairly well protected when the cover is on.
I have no idea how mine broke, but I do know that I am extremely displeased at having no bike for the past few months
and having spent considerable time and money trying to get it fixed.
Do you happen to know how many volts go from the motor to the sc-e8000 computer via the signal wire, or can you measure it on your bike please?
As mentioned above I have bypassed the broken connection and replaced a shorted out computer with a new one, but the system still does not power up. The battery is fine.
Thanks.

 

[Alamen1]

Now there is the problem in a nutshell. Easy enough to buy a 250V 30A (motor spikes in burst to 500V 13.8amps) max connector BUT will signal connector wires to the computer be too heavy and not want to draw the small current across. It was indeed one of the questions that are being asked to the Canada Shimano motor expert we are talking to. How much voltage is required? Both my pin connection are broken so I am unable to hook the battery up and test the current draw, Trust me I did not break them. I came back from a ride and washed the bike ( no pressure washer and not upside down before anyone jumps in here). After that, it would start and then shut down. They asked me to pull the main connection and tell them how many pins I saw. I told them 2. I found the 2 broken ones on the harness side. I pulled them out and sent pictures in right away. Now I did have a few "get offs" on the bike as I was in the snow and mud so possible they broke then, but the bike ran all the way to my house fine? They sure are not in there very well and I might just solder in a machined pin connection. My thinking is they are trying to get my motor going without doing a full warranty replacement because they just do not have the E8000's in stock for warranty. They want them on new bikes. It's their idea to have me replace it myself as I am capable of doing it, but want me to use their mount. We are just waiting for word on the mount. I however would love to replace that mount with a far superior one that won't break.

 

[Lovely]

Thanks for the reply, I used the four pin connection pictured above, but we never found out if it was suitable as the computer was shorted out, and now the new computer does not work despite voltage coming from the battery. The electrician is working on opening the motor to see if there are further problems in there, and if there is any update I will post it one here. I would really love to know why or how this connector broke, and more than that I would really love to have my bike back in action again. 100 years of Shimano in 4 months time - sadly I may not be celebrating......

 

[Alamen1]

So I opened up the mounting plate and made a discovery. One of the pins was actually not broken but pushed down in the housing. I used small needle nose pliers and pushed the contact pin back up in the mount plate connector. For the other pin that was broken through, I used a Ø.035" pin to push the broken part down and out of the harness and discovered what they are using. They are using a 20-24 AWG crimp connector with a Ø.66MM pin connection (Ø.024 Imperial). I have just ordered some from the states so once they are here I will solder one in place and let you know if it fires up and get you the full part number and who to buy from. Not sure how long it will take to get here but should be by next week I would imagine as it's Thursday already.

 

[Lovely]

So I opened up the mounting plate and made a discovery. One of the pins was actually not broken but pushed down in the housing. I used small needle nose pliers and pushed the contact pin back up in the mount plate connector. For the other pin that was broken through, I used a Ø.035" pin to push the broken part down and out of the harness and discovered what they are using. They are using a 20-24 AWG crimp connector with a Ø.66MM pin connection (Ø.024 Imperial). I have just ordered some from the states so once they are here I will solder one in place and let you know if it fires up and get you the full part number and who to buy from. Not sure how long it will take to get here but should be by next week I would imagine as it's Thursday already.

Great work, well done. I hope your new parts prove successful when they come. Gives me a bit of hope.... Post is incredibly slow here at present with Xmas and Covid. I am waiting since 19th Nov for a parcel from France, still no tracking number in Ireland yet.

 

[Alamen1]

Ok so I got my new pins overnight from half way across Canada. For you that would be about 14 countries away. LOL. Anyways its a 26GAW not a 24GAW wire so even though my pin size was right my existing connection hole for the main part of the connector was to small. So I just drilled it out to about .002" undersize and it pressed in fine. I tapped the whole harness inside of the connector it will help keep those pins from pushing in. I crimped the wire after stripping it and also applied solder. I hooked it back up to the bike and viola bike is running again. So I will look up the right number tonight for all your guys plate connections now I know the right size. It read fine across the flats but it didn't account for the diagonal as the connector is rectangular after the pin. Which meant my part would have been fine had the original been a square but it was not. Regardless it still works well.

lastly I will use some q-tips and silicone and make a seal around the edge of the plate. I am going to source another connector plate for the motor and thread on connector for the battery harness. I just need the right size. Not only will it never come apart unless unscrewed but also it will never break a pin putting the battery harness back on the motor as God intended. Shame on Shimano for putting such a cheap as S&^t connector in a vital spot. Trust me I won't leave you all in the lurch I will get you the pin you can use now and the new connection later. I will have to read a lot of part numbers though to get what I want, but if you can solder the basics and have patience its easily doable.

 

[Lovely]

Ho, ho, ho that sounds great -PLEASE tell me you too some photos of the process that you can post on here....

 

[High Rock Ruti]

High Rock Ruti

Pictures please

 

[Alamen1]

ART: A34239CT-ND MFG : TE Connectivity AMP Connectors (VA) / 5-104505-4 DESC: CONN PIN 22-26AWG CRIMP GOLD pin size is .027" (.66mm). Order your parts from DIGI KEY.

But you want one with a smaller body or you will have to drill out your pinhole on the plate mount to .078" in order for the body to fit proper. Like I said the wire is 26GAW and the body is roughly .037" x .044". That will help narrow your search. Owning a set of vernier sure helps to measure with.

Like I said I can get you the right number but they literally have thousands to choose from and it will take time to get the right one. Mine worked fine because I knew I could easily modify it to make it fit. I will look for you when I have time. When you order, order 10. They are .61 cents each. Better to have extra doing nothing than the one you wreck and no more to use. Putting everything back together was a giant pain in the butt. You can download a complete parts breakdown from Norco for every bolt and part and where they go to help guide you if you get lost. If you cannot find it then email Norco support and they will send you a PDF or your local Norco bike store can get it for you.

Make sure you have a heavy gauge wire and run it into the main body of the bike from the power button hole down the tube of the bike frame. You will then need to electrical tape the connector for the "power on" button to that cable and pull it out as your pushing the battery back in or it will not show up on the other end, and there is just enough cable to just make it to the top of the power buttonhole. (Thanks Shimano A-h&$@s) Use a set of needle-nose pliers to hold the connector while you remove the tape and plug in the power button connector right away in case it falls back inside. The power button cable MUST be tapped to the side of the battery that faces the top of the frame before insertion to keep it from binding up or slipping backward. tape to the top side ONLY. If you tape to the sides of the battery it will start to peel off and jam it up. There is literally no room for anything extra on the sides.

When sliding the battery back inside please make sure that the brake lines and cable that run inside the frame are not stacking on each other. There is just enough room under the battery for one cable high otherwise the battery will start to bind going in the tube. That is not good. Very hard to get out. As your nearing the 2 holes in the frame for the mount plate and bolts to secure the top side of the battery or the side nearest the top of the frame. Push slowly as it needs to line up to be exact and it's tough to move the battery around using the harness that comes off the end of the battery as it's the only way to move it as there is nothing else to grab. If the battery is not sliding in "STOP" pull it out and check everything to make sure it's all in there flat. DO NOT rubber tap the battery into the frame. If it gets stuck your SOL. I went to our service department and got 7 rubber o'rings @ .357" inside diameter with a 1/8" cross-section and placed them behind the battery mount plates around the plastic molding where the bolt zerqs are molded into each end of the battery frame. It fits perfectly. That way I create a crush seal between the battery and the plate so no water can get in via the bolt zerqs into the battery itself. I also spent time using electrical tape to wrap right up to the connectors on exposed wires. SHAME SHIMANO, SHAME.

When mounting the motor make sure the 2 connectors that go to the plug for charging the battery are off to one side each. Also make sure you plug in the computer connector and speed sensor connector FIRST as you won't be able once the motor is installed. Watch these cables closely as your moving the motor down, they seem to have about 10 extra feet to them that can get jammed under the motor and crushed. Mount the 2 front bolts into the frame and motor first and keep checking for binding and wiggle the wires to make sure you have them to the sides as to not crush them as you start to rotate the motor down for the to rear bolt holes. If that is OK then rotate the motor backwards into the 2 rear clamp hole position and bolt those up. Sometimes you have to use a rubber mallet to get this part down in the frame. JUST MAKE SURE the wires are moving freely before doing so. Once you have that done then the rest is simple.

I build very complex things for a living and have a whole state of the art machine and fabrication department. So understandably I can tell you that if you do not have this type of experience you might want to get an electrician to install the pin and your local bike shop to put it back together for you.

YOU SHOULD ALWAYS plug all connectors in with the motor and battery as well as the front computer connector and the rear speed sensor BEFORE BOLTING EVERYTHING BACKUP. If you have done it right the computer will kick on and stay on. Use E-connect on your phone to do a quick diagnosis to make sure all components are fine as it checks when you connect to it via Bluetooth. The rest is general bike knowledge.

 

[Alamen1]

Here is a pic with the computer on. This was me testing everything BEFORE REINSTALLING it all.

 

[Alamen1]

One last thing. I bought a Cane Creek DB Kitsuma coil. The Coil is 2.25 x 650lbs. NOW IT WILL NOT Install on your bike because it hits the frame with the existing trunnion. So I made a whole new set of bottom mount slide thru pins and a reverse trunnion to rotate the shock right side up. If you do not understand how this was made from the photo you won't be able to make one. You also need to grind in about a 1" diameter groove on front and back of trunnion that mounts to the top of shock side to clear weird mould extrusions. The grooves are at 45 deg right in the middle. MAN is this thing plush. Just showing you so you know it can be done, and you will get to have high and low speed compression adjustment as well as high and low speed rebound adjustment. PLUS your lockout is right at the top so easy to reach. Any machinist will look at this and know what I have done. I kept the existing top bolts and inside bearing slip sleeves to sit against the bearing races so there is no binding. And the bottom is just a pin rotation but with just the thru pin and I got rid of the slip on sleeve from the trunnion. The clearance is 1.875" side to side so I made them .93" long and stepped the OD down on each side to fit into the top of the shock to act as a bearing sleeve for the pin to pass thru. Make sure you have about a 1-2 degree max over rotation so the shock will always want to push backwards to the bike tube. This makes the double rotation points work as it cannot go back any further and pushes straight up and down on the shock. It will never rotate forward plus its tightened with loctite pretty tight. It isn't moving anywhere and downward force is straight down.

I had already ordered my shock so once it arrived we discovered it wouldnt fit and I fixed it. The offset on the existing trunion is 1.25" so if you ordered in a 215mm regular shock with pin pin connection you could buy the mount pins from Cane creek themselves as they have huge lists of mounts. You just need to know your bolt sizes and spacing needs. the top is 1.890" or 48mm and the bottom is 1.875" or 47.625mm so a 47.5mm would work fine. Rememeber if your going to go pin to pin which in my opinion should not interfere make sure you know your mount bolt sizes so you do not have to mod your frame in case for whatever reason you wanted to sell the bike with the old shock on it and keep the $1000 shock for yourself. (converted into Canadian pesos)

 

[Lovely]

Wow, that all sounds very technical. Well done on getting it fixed. Now that it is working would you mind if possible, measuring the voltage that is going to the computer from the motor via the signal wire. I really wish to know if my reading of 7.9 is correct, or if that's the issue preventing my new computer from powering up. Many thanks.

Louis.

 

[Alamen1]

I will look into this this week for you. Taking today off. Been working 12 hour days. Going to watch some football (sleep thru most games). LOL

 

[Lovely]

Thanks, I know all about 12 hour days too. My sleep patterns are atrocious

 

[Lovely]

Michael has opened the motor and checked all the connections, everything is clean and seems in order. Why is the bike not turning on?
Battery is putting out 36volts, and the signal wire is bringing 7.9 volts to the new handlebar computer. What are we missing here?

 

[Shjay]

The battery on my Vitus would light up but not the display on my E7000! The power supply is in totally different place to E8000 plugged motor into laptop & display working & battery fine turns out Di2 cable between the two broken, it runs through the motor but impossible to feed new cable through, hole too small so taped it to the power cable, wasn’t too bad feeding it through the frame, did a new dropper outer & inner cable whilst had the bike apart & motor dropped!

 

[Lovely]

The battery on my Vitus would light up but not the display on my E7000! The power supply is in totally different place to E8000 plugged motor into laptop & display working & battery fine turns out Di2 cable between the two broken, it runs through the motor but impossible to feed new cable through, hole too small so taped it to the power cable, wasn’t too bad feeding it through the frame, did a new dropper outer & inner cable whilst had the bike apart & motor dropped!

I am getting 7.9 volts at the top of the Di2 cable, suggesting it is not broken. How do you plug the motor into a laptop?

 

[Shjay]

I have the pce02 plugs into spare slot in motor same as spare slots on the display screen, also have Di2 on gravel bike

 

[Lovely]

Ah, I see. The PCE02 looks to be about €200, think that may be too extravagant for me for an item that will probably only be used once. I don't have any Shimano service centres near me here in South Donegal. This is just no fun at all.