Orbea Rise M20 1st ride, 1st thoughts

[CORC_Richard]

Just got my Orbea Rise M20 and went out today for the first ride. Covered 40km and 550m of ascent over two hours. Used Trail and Boost (I know, but wanted to have some fun on the new bike!) and still only got through a third of the battery.

I swapped the handle bar for a Race Face Next 20mm carbon riser, partly to get the overall weight down, but the biggest advantage is how light it makes the steering feel. Well worth the upgrade (£108). It also reduces the handlebar width to 760mm (or a metal saw could achieve the same) which suits me better at 5'7".

I've setup the RISE RS toolbox through my Garmin 530 and use the 7-B screen layout which means in the largest field box I can see the assist mode and battery percentage on the Garmin screen leaving the other six fields for my preferred data (time, distance, ascent, temp, HR, ride time). I prefer this to the eBike Shimano data fields as the assist mode shows up in English rather than a number. Also using this I no longer want the E7000 display as the Garmin shows me what I need. Wondering if I could even get rid of the small indicator box as well and just run the switch onto the cable into the down tube?

It was a muddy day today and the Mudhugger front guard worked fine, but have ordered another one to go on the rear. A great deal of mud went over the rear linkage, motor and charger connector port which I doubt is ideal long term.

Forks front and back felt right for me and the type of riding I do (mostly trails / XC) so doubt I will change. Going on a trip to the Alps next year so will think about swapping front rotor to IceTech Freeza 203mm for the long decents, but the 180mm is fine for Kent/Surrey Hills rides, even though I did get a nice burning smell of the front rotor today on a longer fast decent, but that may just be burning off the factory coating.

Overall very very happy with the bike and grateful to this forum for the many comments others have left.

Richard

 

[GMLS]

Glad you are enjoying it.I need to come up with a solution for protecting that linkage as it's vulnerable like you say. Some have cut up an old inner tube.

 

[Cavi]

did you look to see what profile you were running? I got my rise last week and was very dissapointed on first ride until I figured out that the bike was shipped in profile 1 and was only giving me a max of 40nm of torque.

 

[mark.ai]

The Shimano indicator box/junction by the bars (EW-EN100) is actually what sends the data to your Garmin, so you would need to keep it connected somewhere, but you could maybe find a location inside the frame to hide it away.

Either by changing the wire lengths that connect to it. Or by adding a splitter junction you could have it on the very end of a wire if that worked better.

 

[Rod B.]

CORC_Richard,

Awesome to hear your enjoying you new Rise!

 

[Moots YBB]

did you look to see what profile you were running? I got my rise last week and was very dissapointed on first ride until I figured out that the bike was shipped in profile 1 and was only giving me a max of 40nm of torque.

it's always in Profile 1 when shipped.

 

[CORC_Richard]

it's always in Profile 1 when shipped.

What does Profile 2 offer that's different to profile 1?

 

[CORC_Richard]

The Shimano indicator box/junction by the bars (EW-EN100) is actually what sends the data to your Garmin, so you would need to keep it connected somewhere, but you could maybe find a location inside the frame to hide it away.

Either by changing the wire lengths that connect to it. Or by adding a splitter junction you could have it on the very end of a wire if that worked better.

Thanks. I think I will take it off the dropper cable and secure it to the handlebar close to the stem. I've seen a picture somewhere of another bike that has done that and it looked neat to me. I might also get a 125mm Reverb AXS dropper so will not have a cable at all. The stock dropper is slightly too long for me, even when fully in the seat tube.

 

[GMLS]

What does Profile 2 offer that's different to profile 1?

You can tune what each level gives you so I have profile 1 for xc and profile 2 for the more challenging stuff.In P1 I've set the max torque to odd numbers and in p2 even numbers from memory

 

[CORC_Richard]

Bike after the muddy ride! Dropper cable is way too long (Bike store have offered to shorten).

I've moved the Shimano box off the dropper cable, need to get hold of those silicone rings. If you have any spare happy to buy some, as I don't need 200!

Too much mud here so have ordered another Mudhugger Front to slot in here.

 

[UK Orb Riser]

Bike after the muddy ride! Dropper cable is way too long (Bike store have offered to shorten).
View attachment 76372

I've moved the Shimano box off the dropper cable, need to get hold of those silicone rings. If you have any spare happy to buy some, as I don't need 200!
View attachment 76373

Too much mud here so have ordered another Mudhugger Front to slot in here.
View attachment 76374

View attachment 76376

I've got some of those silcon rings if you want a few,i used them when fitting the Shimano EM800 display to my M20.

 

[CORC_Richard]

This is how I've setup my Garmin to show only part of the RS toolbox and the other fields with the data I want.

 

[CORC_Richard]

Glad you are enjoying it.I need to come up with a solution for protecting that linkage as it's vulnerable like you say. Some have cut up an old inner tube.

A Mudhugger shorty front works very well:

 

[UK Orb Riser]

A Mudhugger shorty front works very well:
View attachment 76956

That's what I did on mine although I used a full length front mudhugger.

 

[Longfellow78]

Great post. Some questions: How did you find the rear rekon tyre in the mud? All the reviewers say it's too lightweight and should be swapped. What do you think? Were you on profile 1 and did you try profile 2 in the end? any difference? How were the 2-pot brakes? Any plans/need to upgrade to 4-pot? e.g. on the front?
Thanks!

 

[CORC_Richard]

Great post. Some questions: How did you find the rear rekon tyre in the mud? All the reviewers say it's too lightweight and should be swapped. What do you think? Were you on profile 1 and did you try profile 2 in the end? any difference? How were the 2-pot brakes? Any plans/need to upgrade to 4-pot? e.g. on the front?
Thanks!

I ride in lots of mud and don't have a problem with the rear tyre finding grip. It seems a good balance between front and rear so you have confidence that when the rear is losing traction the front will hold. I now mostly ride on profile 2 in trail mode and when I need it up the steeps put it in boost. That way I'm getting the most assistance when I need it. Brakes have been good too. I doubt I would notice 2 pot vrs 4 pot. I've bought a 203mm front rotor but have yet to fit is as I'll need a specific tool to get the current rotor off the front wheel. I also got an e7000 display in the end so that I can ride without the garmin and still easily see battery life and mode. I like the small box that it comes with, but it needs a better mounting option to hold it against the bar and I'm not a fan of it on the dropper cable.

 

[Shjay]

Where do you ride in Kent Richard?

 

[CORC_Richard]

Where do you ride in Kent Richard?

Mostly around, Petts Wood, Joydens & Keston. Sometimes over in Surrey Hills.

 

[Longfellow78]

I ride in lots of mud and don't have a problem with the rear tyre finding grip. It seems a good balance between front and rear so you have confidence that when the rear is losing traction the front will hold. I now mostly ride on profile 2 in trail mode and when I need it up the steeps put it in boost. That way I'm getting the most assistance when I need it. Brakes have been good too. I doubt I would notice 2 pot vrs 4 pot. I've bought a 203mm front rotor but have yet to fit is as I'll need a specific tool to get the current rotor off the front wheel. I also got an e7000 display in the end so that I can ride without the garmin and still easily see battery life and mode. I like the small box that it comes with, but it needs a better mounting option to hold it against the bar and I'm not a fan of it on the dropper cable.

Thanks, maybe I will keep the rear tyre then as I was going to change it when my bike comes. Are you happy with the battery range? I have so much range anxiety about the 360wh, hence still undecided about H15 or M20, but almost sure on H15 based on battery alone. People sat get the m20 and a range extended, but then the weight is pretty much the same, but it's £900 more - so not sure about that!

 

[Shjay]

Mostly around, Petts Wood, Joydens & Keston. Sometimes over in Surrey Hills.

Am the other end of Kent do ride SH too sometimes

 

[CORC_Richard]

Thanks, maybe I will keep the rear tyre then as I was going to change it when my bike comes. Are you happy with the battery range? I have so much range anxiety about the 360wh, hence still undecided about H15 or M20, but almost sure on H15 based on battery alone. People sat get the m20 and a range extended, but then the weight is pretty much the same, but it's £900 more - so not sure about that!

I bought the range extender but have yet to use it. You soon get used to how far you can ride on the internal battery and the type of riding you do. For me it ran out after three hours and 60km of riding around my local trails. That is more than enough for most of the riding I do. I definitely prefer the bike lighter for as much of the riding as possible, so the range extender will only be used on days out at Surrey Hills, etc. I always take a backpack on long rides so could take the extender off the bike when it runs out if I want the bike as playful as possible. That means that for the vast majority of my rides the bike is much lighter and more fun than the H series would be.

In my mind, if you are mainly trails / cross country riding and less downhill focussed the M series is the bike to go for as you will enjoy the lightness more, especially if you are used to riding a manual MTB. Also you are less likely to take a big hit and damage the carbon frame if you aren't a downhiller / aggressive rider.

 

[Longfellow78]

Good advice. What modes are you riding in? If in boost a lot how much will that impact your range. I am only 145lbs and will be riding in Hampshire/surrey. Mainly single-track trails and descents. Occasional bike park but not big jumps or aggressive. Would like to do the peaks etc. My average ride is currently 20 miles or so on acoustic hardtail. Maybe carbon would be best...

 

[CORC_Richard]

Good advice. What modes are you riding in? If in boost a lot how much will that impact your range. I am only 145lbs and will be riding in Hampshire/surrey. Mainly single-track trails and descents. Occasional bike park but not big jumps or aggressive. Would like to do the peaks etc. My average ride is currently 20 miles or so on acoustic hardtail. Maybe carbon would be best...

I ride in trail mode most of the time. Can easily cover 30-40km and have battery to spare. (About 60km is the limit on the internal battery). I bought the range extender for the same reason that I will sometimes ride all day in the alps, surrey hills, etc and would need the extra range. For me a 90km-100km ride will be doable with the range extender and my body will certainly had had enough after that long in the saddle. The issue with the H bikes is that if you mostly do shorter rides (<40km, <2 hours) then you are unnecessarily carrying around extra weight which takes some of the enjoyment away from the point of the Rise in the first place. To me the Rise is aimed at a manual MTBer looking to move to eMTB riding trails, XC and descents. If you are a more bike park, jumper, downhiller, etc then the Rise is the wrong bike (well at least as it is shipped, as there are plenty of posts about people who have put longer forks and added coil suspension to their Rise). I guess the aim of the H series to to produce a cheaper entry point bike, which makes the overlap price points with the M series a strange offering as I think the carbon bikes have the edge for what the Rise is designed and aimed at.

 

[NorthernBloke]

Speaking of mudgaurds, having come back from a very cold and wet ride (hypothermia anyone), I purchased a set from STIF in North Yorkshire on a visit to my Mum's who lives a couple of miles away upt'valley (very convenient excuse to visit!!).
Rapid Racer Proguards front and rear
Also a pair of Fox Ranger 3L (not told the wife about those yet).
Front one, is excellent at stopping legs, face and chest from getting wet and dirty (you still get some) but you're not wet after five minutes riding as I was before.
Jury still out on rear as my bum and back just look at bad as before but it the bike is less dirty around the linkages, and rear shock.
Ranger 3L pants are a game changer, waterproof, breathable and more importantly windproof for winter. Expensive though, will let the wife discover them before I fess up. She won't mind I'll just get that look that only your wife can give.

 

[NorthernBloke]

Great post. Some questions: How did you find the rear rekon tyre in the mud? All the reviewers say it's too lightweight and should be swapped. What do you think? Were you on profile 1 and did you try profile 2 in the end? any difference? How were the 2-pot brakes? Any plans/need to upgrade to 4-pot? e.g. on the front?
Thanks!

Rekon is not a good winter tyre for the UK imo (mud, mud and more mud where I live). It may get better when the ground turns to permafrost. But as a good Yorkshireman I will use it until it needs replacing. The Dissector on the front is good so I may replace it with one of these. The DHF and DHR might be better for those who just go to trail centres and bike parks. I also like Rocket Rons which are imo a very good trail tyre for the money.

 

[Longfellow78]

Rekon is not a good winter tyre for the UK imo (mud, mud and more mud where I live). It may get better when the ground turns to permafrost. But as a good Yorkshireman I will use it until it needs replacing. The Dissector on the front is good so I may replace it with one of these. The DHF and DHR might be better for those who just go to trail centres and bike parks. I also like Rocket Rons which are imo a very good trail tyre for the money.

I was thinking the dissector on the back, and a DHR II on the front - it's marketed as a rear but meant to be excellent on the front.

 

[NorthernBloke]

I was thinking the dissector on the back, and a DHR II on the front - it's marketed as a rear but meant to be excellent on the front.

Had the DHF and DHR on my old mtb, excellent and replaced with Hand Dampf soft on front and harder compound on back.
These are excellent too.
If you are mainly trail riding then they are great.
Again it is easy to match the tyre to your style using Maxxis and Schwalbe tyre guides.