Orbea Rise H30- Review after some mods and some rides

WestCoastRider

New Member
Feb 10, 2023
29
23
Manhattan Beach, CA
I picked up an on sale Orbea Rise H30 in December. I decided I wanted a lower torque and lighter weight bike after riding about 5 different hi power emtn bikes over the last few years. I have a Guerilla Gravity Gnarvana, 160 rear and 170 front and really like this style of longer slack bike. So I decided the Orbea Rise was close to what I wanted in some ways and maybe I would tweak it to address things I was hoping to get. Did it work? Would I do the same thing again? Pretty much yes, the work is not yet done but so far I am really happy.

I settled on a size XL, I had read that Orbea's run a bit small and I am usually a L but absolutely hate having a short top tube so the dimensions of the XL were better. Overall the fit is pretty good, but the seat is a hair higher than I would like (frame is constructed to have a higher standover the seat height than it probably needs). Even stock, with the crummy front and rear suspension, I was pretty happy with the first ride down some steeps. I mean I could manage it, the only direction in terms of performance was up from there!

First step, new Fox Factory X2, wow... this makes the bike perform way better, especially for me at 230lbs. Then, new cockpit, bars and stem like what's on my GG to keep the feel familiar. Swapped some carbon wheels w 240 hubs and beefy tires. Next step, Magura T5 4 piston calipers and XT 2 finger levers. Immensely better stopping power, but wow does that Marzokes front suspension fork flex... gonna have to replace that ASAP.

But I decided to take a couple of hardcore enduro rides to do some thinking about what to put up front. One idea is just to put a 150 36-38mm up there to get rid of the flex, improve the suspension and slacken the thing out. More work would be a 9point5 1.5degree slackR kit and 160mm of travel.

This weekend I took the bike out to Palm Springs, CA and took it through the paces on some climbs and descents. What I found, that Dunn Rd climb to access the trails is steep. I have ridden it before with a full power bike and I did feel the lesser torque of the Rise, but it got me up. It did burn through 2 or 5 bars of battery to get up to the picnic benches where the 7 miles of flow and downhill starts. So to realistically lap at this particular ride spot, I'll need the range extender.
Tractor.jpg

How about the flow and downhill performance? Well, I think it was such that I don't want to put an angleset on this bike and slacken it that much. It was really fun on the flow, although I found myself having to be careful about getting too far forward, my GG is just sticking forward so much more in the front and so the shorter trail bike that is the Orbea took a few turns to get used to. But once used to it, wow, this is a fun handing bike for the flow (the first half of the 7 miles down).

View attachment Hahn.jpg

There is a brief interlude where you kind of reverse flow, a nice open desert area that is inclined and I burned most of another bar of battery here, but had so much flying through these ups and downs and side to sides.

Then, the real fun, Cathedral Canyon DH, tons of chunk and "high consequences" riding. The initial couple hundred feet is a tough all rock section which I struggle with on a heavyweight emtn bike. The Rise threaded the needle and was nimble enough and powerful enough to rock me through this section. Then the downhill, I really was surprised how well it did. I had pumped the fork way up to avoid having the bike change geometry by having a fully compressed front end, so I was getting a harsh ride in the repeated drops. But I did like the way the bike was more nimble than my GG in the sharp (and very high consequences) switchbacks. For the first time I rode through all of those, again reminding me that maybe the HT angle on the Rise isnt bad even though it looks so on paper. The rear suspension, even though 20mm less than on my GG, was perfect. Probably my biggest gripe was the Marzochi fork bending under heavy front braking. At one point I wondered if I might just snap it!

Otherwise, I was really impressed with the handling of the 40lb Rise compared to the 55lb emtn bikes I had taken down this trail before. Those heavier bikes tended to kick out the rear tire in the loose rock/scree sections and the Rise kept on my intended track much better.

Bottom line, I need a new fork, probably a 37 or 38 beefy one. But I am not sure I want to slacken this thing much, definitely no angleset. I think I may get a Mezzer since those are easy to change travel between 150/160 with a little plastic spacer. I have one of those on my GG but not sure it's got enough steerer tube for the XL Rise.

Overall, I am really happy with the purchase. Yes, you could say I bought a frame/motor/battery kit and pretty much built a bike around that, discarding a ton of parts. It's true, but I couldnt find anything in the Rise line up that has the top end carbon wheels, X2 shock, MT5 Brakes, etc anywhere near what I am into the bike for now. And now I have a parts bin full of stuff for my 9 year old who is soon to move up from a 26" enduro bike and can use many of the parts I pulled from the Rise H30. View attachment Hahn.jpg
 
Last edited:

ReXTless

Member
Mar 17, 2022
3
2
US
I also just purchased a H30. It will be for my wife and son mostly. Planning to put a factory 36 @150mm on the Rise. Taking it from another bike. Also changing the saddle, bars, and stem. May upgrade the shifter to XT.

I’m really interested to see how it compares to my gen3 Levo.

Looking forward to being able to spend some additional trail time with my son, who has skills, but isn’t old enough yet to have a lot of endurance. Especially when it’s hot outside.
 

Rod B.

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2021
530
924
USA, Orange County Ca.
I picked up an on sale Orbea Rise H30 in December. I decided I wanted a lower torque and lighter weight bike after riding about 5 different hi power emtn bikes over the last few years. I have a Guerilla Gravity Gnarvana, 160 rear and 170 front and really like this style of longer slack bike. So I decided the Orbea Rise was close to what I wanted in some ways and maybe I would tweak it to address things I was hoping to get. Did it work? Would I do the same thing again? Pretty much yes, the work is not yet done but so far I am really happy.

I settled on a size XL, I had read that Orbea's run a bit small and I am usually a L but absolutely hate having a short top tube so the dimensions of the XL were better. Overall the fit is pretty good, but the seat is a hair higher than I would like (frame is constructed to have a higher standover the seat height than it probably needs). Even stock, with the crummy front and rear suspension, I was pretty happy with the first ride down some steeps. I mean I could manage it, the only direction in terms of performance was up from there!

First step, new Fox Factory X2, wow... this makes the bike perform way better, especially for me at 230lbs. Then, new cockpit, bars and stem like what's on my GG to keep the feel familiar. Swapped some carbon wheels w 240 hubs and beefy tires. Next step, Magura T5 4 piston calipers and XT 2 finger levers. Immensely better stopping power, but wow does that Marzokes front suspension fork flex... gonna have to replace that ASAP.

But I decided to take a couple of hardcore enduro rides to do some thinking about what to put up front. One idea is just to put a 150 36-38mm up there to get rid of the flex, improve the suspension and slacken the thing out. More work would be a 9point5 1.5degree slackR kit and 160mm of travel.

This weekend I took the bike out to Palm Springs, CA and took it through the paces on some climbs and descents. What I found, that Dunn Rd climb to access the trails is steep. I have ridden it before with a full power bike and I did feel the lesser torque of the Rise, but it got me up. It did burn through 2 or 5 bars of battery to get up to the picnic benches where the 7 miles of flow and downhill starts. So to realistically lap at this particular ride spot, I'll need the range extender.
View attachment 106755
How about the flow and downhill performance? Well, I think it was such that I don't want to put an angleset on this bike and slacken it that much. It was really fun on the flow, although I found myself having to be careful about getting too far forward, my GG is just sticking forward so much more in the front and so the shorter trail bike that is the Orbea took a few turns to get used to. But once used to it, wow, this is a fun handing bike for the flow (the first half of the 7 miles down).

View attachment 106761

There is a brief interlude where you kind of reverse flow, a nice open desert area that is inclined and I burned most of another bar of battery here, but had so much flying through these ups and downs and side to sides.

Then, the real fun, Cathedral Canyon DH, tons of chunk and "high consequences" riding. The initial couple hundred feet is a tough all rock section which I struggle with on a heavyweight emtn bike. The Rise threaded the needle and was nimble enough and powerful enough to rock me through this section. Then the downhill, I really was surprised how well it did. I had pumped the fork way up to avoid having the bike change geometry by having a fully compressed front end, so I was getting a harsh ride in the repeated drops. But I did like the way the bike was more nimble than my GG in the sharp (and very high consequences) switchbacks. For the first time I rode through all of those, again reminding me that maybe the HT angle on the Rise isnt bad even though it looks so on paper. The rear suspension, even though 20mm less than on my GG, was perfect. Probably my biggest gripe was the Marzochi fork bending under heavy front braking. At one point I wondered if I might just snap it!

Otherwise, I was really impressed with the handling of the 40lb Rise compared to the 55lb emtn bikes I had taken down this trail before. Those heavier bikes tended to kick out the rear tire in the loose rock/scree sections and the Rise kept on my intended track much better.

Bottom line, I need a new fork, probably a 37 or 38 beefy one. But I am not sure I want to slacken this thing much, definitely no angleset. I think I may get a Mezzer since those are easy to change travel between 150/160 with a little plastic spacer. I have one of those on my GG but not sure it's got enough steerer tube for the XL Rise.

Overall, I am really happy with the purchase. Yes, you could say I bought a frame/motor/battery kit and pretty much built a bike around that, discarding a ton of parts. It's true, but I couldnt find anything in the Rise line up that has the top end carbon wheels, X2 shock, MT5 Brakes, etc anywhere near what I am into the bike for now. And now I have a parts bin full of stuff for my 9 year old who is soon to move up from a 26" enduro bike and can use many of the parts I pulled from the Rise H30. View attachment 106760
WestCoastRider,

Nice review on the H30. Isn't it always nice when a new bike makes the trails pop under your feet. I've always enjoyed the Palm Canyon Epic, it's such a great trail. The Art Smith is another fun trail which you can take after reaching the bulldozer picnic area off of Dunn Road.

The H30 comes with a Marzocchi Bomber Z2 140 which has 34mm stanchions. Given your weight and the weight of the Rise, I think 34mm is definitively a bit too flexy for the workload. I'm 6' 1" and weigh 200 lbs., so I'm not that much lighter.

If you check the Orbea Blue Paper for the Rise, you'll see that Orbea sets a maximum Axle to Crown length on both the M and H series Rises at 561mm. I'm not an engineer, but I'm guessing that extending the travel on the front fork beyond the 561mm limit, probably puts excessive stress on the head tube and voids the warranty. Fortunately, Orbea has extended the limit. When the Rise first came out, the limit was much less.

Rise Hydro maximum axle to crown length
Screenshot 2023-02-16 06.52.50.jpg


Rise Carbon maximum axle to crown length
Screenshot 2023-02-16 07.22.28.jpg



Lower end Rises come with 140mm travel forks and the higher end "Trail" models, i.e. M10 come with 150mm travel forks. As a general rule of thumb you can increase travel by 10mm without severely impacting a bike's handling characteristics. Naturally, increasing front fork travel slackens the head tube angle.

A slacker head tube angle enhances a bike's ability to descend through the chunk without sticking a wheel. On the hand, it can also cause the front wheel to lift up more easily on steep climbs or perform poorly on tight switchback turns. It was my experience that increasing front travel to 160mm on the Rise made it an excellent descender with minimal impact to climbing and turning ability. Increasing the travel on the Rise made a good bike, a great bike. If my local trails were smooth flowy trails, I would keep the bike's front fork travel at 150mm. However, my local trails such as Laguna Beach, Oaks, Santa Ana mountains, are not smooth and the Rise benefits from the 160mm travel.

I had a used Fox 36 FIT4, 150mm travel from a previous bike build. I changed the travel to 160mm and installed a Vorsprung Luftkappe negative air piston on my Rise. The Luftkappe negative air piston takes the first 30% of travel and makes it very plush and coil like. It literally smooths out the trail. At the same time, it also allows you to increase air pressure and make the suspension more firmer in the "Mid-Travel" and "Bottom End" portions of the fork's travel. I've taken my Rise down double black trails and it handled everything with no problems. Note, if I'd had a Fox 36 Grip 2 laying around my shop, I'd have put that on my Rise. The Fox Grip 2 dampener is very effective.

The Fox 36 Axle to Crown length allows you to use a 150mm travel fork without exceeding Orbea's maximum Axle to Crown Length of 561mm. When I upgraded my travel to 160mm I voided the warranty. A faint heart never won a fair maiden, sometimes you just have to go for it.

2021/2022 Fox 36 Specifications - Axle to Crown Length

Screenshot 2023-02-16 08.27.40.jpg

My buddy has a Rockshox Lyric 160mm on his Rise. He is a much lighter rider and very fast. I tend to think the Lyric offers the best of both worlds when it comes to "Super Light Ebikes." With the Lyric you get a lighter fork with 35mm stanchions and the Lyric Ultimate with buttercups is a brilliant performing fork. The drawback to the Lyric is it might be a bit flexy for a heavier weight rider in the chunk. The Fox 36 with it's 36 millimeter stanchions is slightly stiffer.

You have a choice of going with a 150mm Lyric fork at a 561mm and staying within standards or go big with a 160mm Lyric and potentially void the warranty with the 572mm axle to crown length.

Rockshox Lyric Specification - Axle to Crown Length

Screenshot 2023-02-16 07.14.36.jpg


With your weight and also mine, I think we benefit from a stiffer fork such as the ZEB or Fox 38. I would suggest going to Pro Bike Supply in Newport Beach. Pro Bike supply has a large rental fleet of eBikes with various grades of suspension. A new fork is an expensive proposition and you don't want to donate your hard earned cash only to realize you bought the wrong fork. Demo a ZEB or Fox 38 and see if you like it.

I have a Rockshox ZEB Ultimate 170mm on my current eBike (Levo). The ZEB is a really good fork. The Fox 38 is also extremely good, you can't go wrong with either fork. I will say this, the Rockshox's tuning manual and phone "Trail App" tuning guide for the ZEB RC3 Ultimate sucks....I hope you're reading this Rockshox.

Unfortunately, the ZEB and Fox 38 conflict with Orbea's Axle to Crown Length standards. If you want to use either one of these forks you'll have to play it a little loose with maximum length standard.

This is my own opinion and it doesn't mean much....I'm of the opinion that modern bike frames have enough of a built in safety margin that unless your hucking your Rise off 10 foot drops and 15 foot gap jumps, you'll be fine. Here's a picture of my friend Noah with his H30, it wasn't quite 15 feet so he was okay.

IMG_2499.JPG


Rockshox ZEB Specification - Axle to Crown Length

Screenshot 2023-02-16 07.15.26.jpg


Fox 38 Specification - Axle to Crown Length

2021_Fox_38_29in_User_Spec_RevDa.jpg
 

WestCoastRider

New Member
Feb 10, 2023
29
23
Manhattan Beach, CA
Great insights Rod. I have a decade+ of experience ignoring manufacturer's specs while I tweak both front and rear suspension ;-)
I wound up buying the GG Gnarvana because it was the first frame where I didn't need to customize outside the warranty specifications. But I have never broken a frame from suspension mods so I think I'm safe with these tweaks that will be just a bit beyond spec.
I have a Manitou Mezzer on my GG which I picked after head to heads with the Zeb and Fox38. I felt the Mezzer was a nice mix of plush in the first 20-30% and then more about bigger chunkier hits after than. I need to measure, but I think I have just enough on that steerer so that it will fit the XL headtube of the Rise. If so I can easily move that between 150 and 160 to see which works best. I'll report back once I give that or a Fox38 a try.
 

John_A

Member
Sep 26, 2022
247
90
UK
Did you need to drop the motor when you MT5s? Have a set to put on my H30, but don’t want it turning in to a huge pain
 

WestCoastRider

New Member
Feb 10, 2023
29
23
Manhattan Beach, CA
Did you need to drop the motor when you MT5s? Have a set to put on my H30, but don’t want it turning in to a huge pain
Several folks here have provided instructions for how to do this without dropping the motor. I will say I tried to get the cable moving without dropping the motor but I had no luck. I also had a few problems with the new hose binding in the down tube as I carefully pushed it through from the bottom bracket area and cannot imagine getting this done without my hands at the bottom of the downtube. I spent a grand total of 20 minutes dropping the motor and then 10 minutes threading the new Magura brake hose through. You need a special tool to remove a shimano lock ring, but otherwise this was an easy task.
 

John_A

Member
Sep 26, 2022
247
90
UK
Several folks here have provided instructions for how to do this without dropping the motor. I will say I tried to get the cable moving without dropping the motor but I had no luck. I also had a few problems with the new hose binding in the down tube as I carefully pushed it through from the bottom bracket area and cannot imagine getting this done without my hands at the bottom of the downtube. I spent a grand total of 20 minutes dropping the motor and then 10 minutes threading the new Magura brake hose through. You need a special tool to remove a shimano lock ring, but otherwise this was an easy task.
That makes me feel a bit better about installing the Magura. However I’ve just realized I have bh90 hose on there so a pair of 6120 calipers may be an easier option

could you possibly give me a quick rundown of dropping the motor? Is the chainring lock reverse thread?
 

WestCoastRider

New Member
Feb 10, 2023
29
23
Manhattan Beach, CA
That makes me feel a bit better about installing the Magura. However I’ve just realized I have bh90 hose on there so a pair of 6120 calipers may be an easier option

could you possibly give me a quick rundown of dropping the motor? Is the chainring lock reverse thread?
I followed this video here
 

Shjay

Well-known member
Apr 30, 2019
835
491
Kent
The Mezzer is an awesome fork I have been running it at 160mm travel on my M20 Rise. I recently got a Mega frame in CRC sales & moved the Mezzer to the mega & upped travel to 170mm. Running a Yari with a Novy Splug in the Rise now at 160mm travel it is a great fork now, tuned to the bike & my weight so damping is very adjustable making fork better than Lyrik ultimate
When I fitted my MT5 brakes I dropped the motor to feed cables through
 

theremotejuggernaut

Active member
Aug 2, 2022
385
276
UK
Another thumbs up for the Mezzer Pro. I had the same idea about trying it at 160 but it's so good at 150 that I don't think I'll bother. The IRT makes the fork genuinely amazing. I'm on the lighter end of the scale for the damper though and even running it wide open sometimes feels a little overdamped.
 

Shjay

Well-known member
Apr 30, 2019
835
491
Kent
Another thumbs up for the Mezzer Pro. I had the same idea about trying it at 160 but it's so good at 150 that I don't think I'll bother. The IRT makes the fork genuinely amazing. I'm on the lighter end of the scale for the damper though and even running it wide open sometimes feels a little overdamped.
If you start googling there is a mod on the shim stack for lighter riders could also look at lighter damper & lower leg oil. 3wt instead of 5wt
 

theremotejuggernaut

Active member
Aug 2, 2022
385
276
UK
If you start googling there is a mod on the shim stack for lighter riders could also look at lighter damper & lower leg oil. 3wt instead of 5wt
Yeah, I've seen the thread on MTBR and will give the shim stack a little make over when I get around to servicing the fork.

Coincidentally, I've been making myself a stand to hold the bike so I can take the fork off easily so hopefully I'll get around to servicing it soon.

It still feels brilliant as it is but I can't help feeling that being right at the adjustment is never ideal. I'd like a couple of clicks to experiment with.
 

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