Orbea Rise Carbon Battery Life- help needed

[gradrosenbaum]

Hi,
Buying an Orbea Rise M10 Carbon- can't decide between 360 Watt or 540 Watt- I prefer to stay lighter weight with bike. I'm 6 foot, 220 pounds and typically ride 10- 15 miles- not crazy ascent either (typically 1K feet, most ever was 2500 feet). Would the 360 watt cover me or should I just buy the bigger battery upfront? I know I can buy the range extender if needed- that's way more $ but an option if smaller isn't enough.
Any help/ advice would be AWESOME!

 

[Grendel]

I have the bike that you are talking about and the 360 is sufficient for those rides at your bodyweight without any issues. With that said, I'm buying a new Rise and I'm opting for the bigger battery to give me the option for longer rides.

 

[michael_bc]

360 Wh should be plenty if your typical ascent is ~300 meters.

I just got a 540 Wh Rise and I did a ~20km tour recently where I ascended ~500 meters in boost (profile 2), and it used less than 1/3rd of the battery.

 

[Livo]

Hi
I have the M10 with 360W battery and got the range extender as well. Without the range extender can do almost all I want but I would definitely get the range extender again.
If want to do an epic in the Lakes or Peaks for example then I know I'm covered. Total 360+252=612W

At a trail centre no need and can travel light. If feeling good can loop back to car if battery low and stick in the range extender. It's the best of both worlds.

What's the point of lugging a 540W battery around if you finish your ride with three bars left?

 

[gradrosenbaum]

Thanks! Is the chart the estimated about of ascent?

360 Wh should be plenty if your typical ascent is ~300 meters.

I just got a 540 Wh Rise and I did a ~20km tour recently where I ascended ~500 meters in boost (profile 2), and it used less than 1/3rd of the battery.

View attachment 130253

Hi
I have the M10 with 360W battery and got the range extender as well. Without the range extender can do almost all I want but I would definitely get the range extender again.
If want to do an epic in the Lakes or Peaks for example then I know I'm covered. Total 360+252=612W

At a trail centre no need and can travel light. If feeling good can loop back to car if battery low and stick in the range extender. It's the best of both worlds.

What's the point of lugging a 540W battery around if you finish your ride with three bars left?

Great input. How long do you get without putting in range extender? And can you share what mode you ride in and weight?

 

[Grendel]

OP, I have a 2021 Carbon M10 with the 360 WH battery. I'm around 215 pounds. I routinely do 20 mile rides with about 1300-1600 ft of elevation change and end with about 20% battery left. That is toggling between assist modes based upon the grade but I'm not a terribly fit rider and I use all the Trail and Boost that I want. I've purposely killed the battery twice and got roughly 40 miles each time but that was in a VERY flat area; again being liberal with the assist modes but mostly using trail. I don't think you are going to have any trouble getting similar mileage and I'd guess you can get around 35 miles with the range extender added. Happy riding!

 

[gradrosenbaum]

OP, I have a 2021 Carbon M10 with the 360 WH battery. I'm around 215 pounds. I routinely do 20 mile rides with about 1300-1600 ft of elevation change and end with about 20% battery left. That is toggling between assist modes based upon the grade but I'm not a terribly fit rider and I use all the Trail and Boost that I want. I've purposely killed the battery twice and got roughly 40 miles each time but that was in a VERY flat area; again being liberal with the assist modes but mostly using trail. I don't think you are going to have any trouble getting similar mileage and I'd guess you can get around 35 miles with the range extender added. Happy riding!

That helps a ton, thanks!

 

[hilbil-E-bikr]

I’ve got an ‘22 H15 with the 540 wh battery. I typically ride 10 to 20 miles but only a few hundred feet of climbing (flat here in lower Alabama). I’ll usually have over 50% charge left. If I got a ‘23 I’d get the 360, possibly with a range extender for trips to the mountains.

 

[gradrosenbaum]

I’ve got an ‘22 H15 with the 540 wh battery. I typically ride 10 to 20 miles but only a few hundred feet of climbing (flat here in lower Alabama). I’ll usually have over 50% charge left. If I got a ‘23 I’d get the 360, possibly with a range extender for trips to the mountains.

Thanks!

 

[Livo]

Thanks! Is the chart the estimated about of ascent?



Great input. How long do you get without putting in range extender? And can you share what mode you ride in and weight?

Very much depends on terrain. Helvellyn in the Lakes is a lot of climbing. Was in turbo for the really hard bits and trail the rest. Pretty well 3.5hr ride. As much as I could do. 2 bars still left with range extender. I’m not a data geek. Can’t be bothered as I just want to ride. I have, however, got turbo mode set to max and trail is “turbo” on preset 2. Hardly ever use eco mode. Plenty of battery for me.

I guess if your struggling with making a decision get the 540 and you can always get a range extender later!

I’m 73kg, have 3L camelbak with all I need in for high mountain. Run low tyre pressures 18-20psi in rear with liner (Dissector 3C MaxxTerra) , 12-15 up front (MaxxGrip Minion). Weight of bike 20kg Without range extender.

I’ve had probs with the raceface vault on rear. One wheel replace on warranty new one starting to go so need to get that replaced. Lost confidence so had a Hope Pro5 on DT Swiss FR541 Built and that’s on now.

 

[Downhillr]

Hi,
Buying an Orbea Rise M10 Carbon- can't decide between 360 Watt or 540 Watt- I prefer to stay lighter weight with bike. I'm 6 foot, 220 pounds and typically ride 10- 15 miles- not crazy ascent either (typically 1K feet, most ever was 2500 feet). Would the 360 watt cover me or should I just buy the bigger battery upfront? I know I can buy the range extender if needed- that's way more $ but an option if smaller isn't enough.
Any help/ advice would be AWESOME!

Just curious what is the weight difference between the two battery sizes?
I imagine like any bike if it’s 2-3 lbs its not a significant effect on your bike’s handling characteristics whereas if it’s more like 5+ you'd notice it.

 

[gradrosenbaum]

Just curious what is the weight difference between the two battery sizes?
I imagine like any bike if it’s 2-3 lbs its not a significant effect on your bike’s handling characteristics whereas if it’s more like 5+ you'd notice it.

It's roughly 2 pounds more

 

[Downhillr]

It's roughly 2 pounds more

If it was me I’d get the bigger capacity then, avoid any battery anxiety if I wanted to make another loop or faster climb.

 

[Grendel]

If it was me I’d get the bigger capacity then, avoid any battery anxiety if I wanted to make another loop or faster climb.

I have a 2021 M10 with the 360. Just upgraded to a 2023 and opted for the larger battery. I've not really had any issues with range but, given the choice, I'm going for the bigger one.

 

[beerider]

I went with 540wh battery for my 2023 M-team. I'm ~62kg, getting around 10K ft of elevation gain and ~80miles+ with single charge across multiple rides. All my rides are loops, so half of it is basically downhill and hence, no assist involved. I ride at Eco with 27Nm max setting at which the bike pretty much feels like a pure pedal one.

I'm so glad I went with the large battery that I don't have to think about the range at all even if I ride at the high power as my bike came with full 85Nm enabled with the stock firmware.

 

[michael_bc]

I went with 540wh battery for my 2023 M-team. I'm ~62kg, getting around 10K ft of elevation gain and ~80miles+ with single charge across multiple rides. All my rides are loops, so half of it is basically downhill and hence, no assist involved. I ride at Eco with 27Nm max setting at which the bike pretty much feels like a pure pedal one.

I'm so glad I went with the large battery that I don't have to think about the range at all even if I ride at the high power as my bike came with full 85Nm enabled with the stock firmware.

Out of curiosity, how much does your bike weigh?

 

[beerider]

Out of curiosity, how much does your bike weigh?

About 42.5lbs ~ 19.4kg

 

[Grendel]

Out of curiosity, how much does your bike weigh?

I've got this exact same bike that was just delivered, assembled and is waiting for me to pick it up at the bike shop. Can't wait to ride it!

 

[michael_bc]

About 42.5lbs ~ 19.4kg

Thanks!

I just received my 540 Wh 2023 Rise H10 last month and it weighed in at ~19.7kg (as delivered with the Dissector EXO+ tires and without pedals). This is consistent with what I've read online that the alloy frame is only 300 grams heavier.

I went with the alloy purely based on cost savings.

From the few tours I did so far ... absolutely amazing bike!!

 

[Frankyspec]

Normally it will be around 600g lighter, frame wheels drivetrain brakes mteam vs h10. Will pick up my mteam this Saturday after waiting 1 year can’t wait to ride it finally, week after tuning to 50km/h with 540w battery and range extender .

 

[Plummet]

I would go for the large capacity battery especially at your weight. 5hen you can ride for longer.

If you have the smaller battery you will limit these length of time you can ride.

 

[mikegarf]

Very much depends on terrain. Helvellyn in the Lakes is a lot of climbing. Was in turbo for the really hard bits and trail the rest. Pretty well 3.5hr ride. As much as I could do. 2 bars still left with range extender. I’m not a data geek. Can’t be bothered as I just want to ride. I have, however, got turbo mode set to max and trail is “turbo” on preset 2. Hardly ever use eco mode. Plenty of battery for me.

I guess if your struggling with making a decision get the 540 and you can always get a range extender later!

I’m 73kg, have 3L camelbak with all I need in for high mountain. Run low tyre pressures 18-20psi in rear with liner (Dissector 3C MaxxTerra) , 12-15 up front (MaxxGrip Minion). Weight of bike 20kg Without range extender.

I’ve had probs with the raceface vault on rear. One wheel replace on warranty new one starting to go so need to get that replaced. Lost confidence so had a Hope Pro5 on DT Swiss FR541 Built and that’s on now.

Just out of interest what problems did you have with your rear wheels? Is it the free hub failing which makes a horrible crunching noise? I think mines at that stage now.

 

[Livo]

Just out of interest what problems did you have with your rear wheels? Is it the free hub failing which makes a horrible crunching noise? I think mines at that stage now.

Hi Mike
It was really hard to identify. Initially thought it was the freehub body and the stresses on the pawl sockets. But the new wheel had the old freehub and it was OK initially. The other possibility was the ratched which the pawls click into was coming away from the main part of the freehub and moving so the pawls lost their seating.
To be fair RaceFace have now replaced the second wheel without a quibble, which I've put on my hardtail!! Hope Pro 5 seems OK though not put enough miles on it to give any meaningful feedback.

 

[mikegarf]

Cheers Livo
Was yours making horrible crunching, pinging noises when it happened and did it feel like it was slipping slightly? Mine can be fine for a while then when I change gear or cadence or push harder for an incline it starts doing it. Wish I had a spare wheel to try on the bike to prove it but I'm convinced this is what it is. Think a new wheel is on the cards.

 

[Livo]

Cheers Livo
Was yours making horrible crunching, pinging noises when it happened and did it feel like it was slipping slightly? Mine can be fine for a while then when I change gear or cadence or push harder for an incline it starts doing it. Wish I had a spare wheel to try on the bike to prove it but I'm convinced this is what it is. Think a new wheel is on the cards.

Yeah Mike exactly that. Like the chain was slipping. You pedal hard then cracking noise. Found it often happened after a bit of freewheeling. It got so bad that rocking it to and fro with brake on made the cracking sound. Took it back to lbs. They put another wheel on and it didn't do it. They said they'd had a number of vault hubs doing the same thing. RaceFace have a lifetime warranty and tbf they honoured that twice.
What hubs have you got Mike? Is your bike still under warranty?

 

[mikegarf]

Yeah Mike exactly that. Like the chain was slipping. You pedal hard then cracking noise. Found it often happened after a bit of freewheeling. It got so bad that rocking it to and fro with brake on made the cracking sound. Took it back to lbs. They put another wheel on and it didn't do it. They said they'd had a number of vault hubs doing the same thing. RaceFace have a lifetime warranty and tbf they honoured that twice.
What hubs have you got Mike? Is your bike still under warranty?

I have the original Vault hubs as standard on the M10 model. Unfortunately it's no longer under warranty. I will have a chat with my LBS and Race Face and try to get a warranty replacement. If not I'll peobably just treat myself to a new rear wheel. To be honest I'm just relieved it's not the motor. At least not this time anyway

 

[Livo]

I have the original Vault hubs as standard on the M10 model. Unfortunately it's no longer under warranty. I will have a chat with my LBS and Race Face and try to get a warranty replacement. If not I'll peobably just treat myself to a new rear wheel. To be honest I'm just relieved it's not the motor. At least not this time anyway

Yep true!!
My lbs were doubtful I would get the rear wheel replaced again but I insisted they send it to Silverfish as RaceFace were trumpeting their lifetime warranty. It took a couple of months to get the replacement and in the meantime I’d got a new rear wheel.