Orbea Rise - 34t Chainring?

[scarl]

Any body put a 34t chainring on Rise? I'm on my third cassette and chain. Probably user error ( but 1500 miles in 9 months ) but LBS suggested as it my help avoid killing my 10 and 12 gears. I'm also considering putting on 160mm cranks to avoid increased pedal strikes after a made it a mullet 3 months ago. Wondering if changing chainring and decreasing cranks from 165 to 160 would kind of offset each other and I would back at the same gearing.

 

[rod9301]

Any body put a 34t chainring on Rise? I'm on my third cassette and chain. Probably user error ( but 1500 miles in 9 months ) but LBS suggested as it my help avoid killing my 10 and 12 gears. I'm also considering putting on 160mm cranks to avoid increased pedal strikes after a made it a mullet 3 months ago. Wondering if changing chainring and decreasing cranks from 165 to 160 would kind of offset each other and I would back at the same gearing.

Where are you riding that you're killing the small gears? I'm using the big ones much more

 

[ebsocalmtb]

yes, I am running the shimano 34t chainring spider combo on mine. I appreciate the extra clearance from the chainstay to the chain with this setup, as well as the gearing range in general with the 34t/51t combo.

 

[scarl]

Where are you riding that you're killing the small gears? I'm using the big ones much more

Nor-Cal but I like to crank out the miles out of the saddle. Of course when climbing I'm on the larger gears.

 

[scarl]

yes, I am running the shimano 34t chainring spider combo on mine. I appreciate the extra clearance from the chainstay to the chain with this setup, as well as the gearing range in general with the 34t/51t combo.

LBS didn't mention spider - Did say it will be tight with the chain guide though. No big deal if I ride w/o guide I believe. I'm certain I will like to gear range as well - Thanks

 

[cookie70]

yes, I am running the shimano 34t chainring spider combo on mine. I appreciate the extra clearance from the chainstay to the chain with this setup, as well as the gearing range in general with the 34t/51t combo.

retaining the standard chain guide?

on my M10 it looks like the guide could do 34 but I have not tried yet. No way I will run without a guide

 

[sumyungguy]

I just installed a 34t E*Thirteen chainring to hopefully utilize the lower gears. 34t is what Orbea lists as the maximum size in the Blue Paper and I can see why, it gets really close to the lower chainstay. BUT, a 2 tooth change is not that big of a difference.

Changing your crank arm length does not change your gearing. It's a fit, feel, and clearance component. Check out this really cool video from Hardtail Party of that rabbit hole - The Great Crank Length Experiment

Though pricey, 5dev has some beautiful crank arms that are designed to offer the most ground clearance for the size possible.

 

[scarl]

I just installed a 34t E*Thirteen chainring to hopefully utilize the lower gears. 34t is what Orbea lists as the maximum size in the Blue Paper and I can see why, it gets really close to the lower chainstay. BUT, a 2 tooth change is not that big of a difference.

Changing your crank arm length does not change your gearing. It's a fit, feel, and clearance component. Check out this really cool video from Hardtail Party of that rabbit hole - The Great Crank Length Experiment

Though pricey, 5dev has some beautiful crank arms that are designed to offer the most ground clearance for the size possible.

Thanks exactly the info I was looking for. I got the shorter cranks waiting in 34t

 

[ebsocalmtb]

retaining the standard chain guide?

on my M10 it looks like the guide could do 34 but I have not tried yet. No way I will run without a guide

The oem chain guide does not work with the shimano spider. The shimano spider that goes onto the splined crank/output shaft of the motor makes contact with the mounting points for the oem chain guide. I wouldn't worry too much about running without a chain guide... provided that I were running a shimano 12 spd drivetrain. The clutches on the shimano stuff are stronger, so you tend to get a bit less chain slap on the bottom (un-tensioned) of the chainstay which is where the chain will jump... if anywhere. If you're running sram (like I am, more specifically shramano) then I would for sure stick with a chain guide as the eagle stuff has much lower and non-adjustable clutch tension.

This thread mentions that the oneup and funn chain guides are compatible... but I've heard conflicting reports on if the oneup fits without making contact.

Changed E-13 Chainring to Shimano spider which hits the chain guide mount

I've just swapped out the E-13 chain ring on my M10 and fitted a Shimano spider (SM-CRE-80-12-B) but the spider strikes the mount of the chain guide and gets stuck. I've removed the chain guide but am now looking for an alternative which will not hinder the spider. Anyone know if this Nukeproof...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[cookie70]

oem chain guide does not work with the shimano spider

but it should work with e13 chainring?

 

[sumyungguy]

but it should work with e13 chainring?

Yes, works fine

 

[BengtWeil]

but it should work with e13 chainring?

As stated, most likely will work fine but be sure to read the following, just to be well informed.

 

[nrgbod]

Does anyone know where I can get a 30T chanring for the Rise H15?
I'm find it slightly over-geared with the 32T on some of the steeper more technical climbs.
The blue paper says its specced for 30T but I haven't been able to find one yet.

 

[sumyungguy]

Does anyone know where I can get a 30T chanring for the Rise H15?
I'm find it slightly over-geared with the 32T on some of the steeper more technical climbs.
The blue paper says its specced for 30T but I haven't been able to find one yet.

As in its too easy or hard to pedal on steep climbs? When you say over-geared, to me that means its too easy. So you would want to go up in size on the front.

I haven't seen a 30t for a steps/ep8. E*thirteen and Shimano start at 32t.

 

[BengtWeil]

Start here and scroll down to the Shimano and FSA 104BCD spiders - as noted, they generally are spec'd for 32T or larger, though you can get 30T 104 BCD chainrings. Wolf Tooth 30T and Race Face 30T, but be sure to get the correct tooth pattern for Shimano (if that's what your still running). With the 30T options, clearance may become an issue and most likely, no way to run a chain guide. I looked into this a bit and wasn't willing to jump into the deep end, as this appears to be uncharted territory...

Another option, but only about 1/3 the gearing reduction of a 30T chainring would be to switch the rear to a 52T Garbaruk cassette for the Shimano microspline driver. If you change the driver to a SRAM (if available), you can do the Eagle 52T cassette. Either one isn't much of a gearing reduction, but it does help.

 

[nrgbod]

Thanks for the comments guys, I was hoping for a one piece chainring rather than a 104bcd one but it looks like they don't exist.
I find the 32T a bit too fast over very steep rooty bits or other technical climbs with steps for example. If I slow it down with the 32T the cadence drops out of the 'power band'.

 

[sumyungguy]

Thanks for the comments guys, I was hoping for a one piece chainring rather than a 104bcd one but it looks like they don't exist.
I find the 32T a bit too fast over very steep rooty bits or other technical climbs with steps for example. If I slow it down with the 32T the cadence drops out of the 'power band'.

Then you would want to go up to 34 .

Bigger in the front will make the larger rings in the back more useful while keeping up the cadence.

 

[nrgbod]

No, I need to slow the 'bike' down slightly in 1st gear and still keep the cadence above about 70 rpm.
The 32T is good for 28mph+ on the down hill bits which is more than I need.