New Fantic Fat Sport Integra - Info Updated Regularly

[BMP]

Just been riding my neighborhood loop getting used to the bike before heading up in the mountains. Still super impressed with the bike. It wants so plow thru everything

How do you like the bar mitts? With just decent gloves on I only lasted about 2 miles in -2 deg F temps. Going to either get better gloves or mitts.

Bike looks great BTW. And I NEED some snow! So jealous at this point!

Brad

 

[JB01245]

Sorry about the late response. The pogies work really well in cold, windy conditions. The ones I am using currently are just neoprene and cheap but work pretty well. There are some others that are better insulated and have vents that can be opened up - https://www.levelninesports.com/pro...ies-flat-bar-2023?selectedOptions=Color=Black

You do need to be careful as they can restrict your ability to pull your hands out quickly if you end up going over the bars in technical sections One good face plant will wake you up real quick.

Jay

How do you like the bar mitts? With just decent gloves on I only lasted about 2 miles in -2 deg F temps. Going to either get better gloves or mitts.

Bike looks great BTW. And I NEED some snow! So jealous at this point!

Brad

 

[E&NonEinCO]

I got these as a winter set-up - 26 inch Fat Bike Wheelset Sun Ringle Mulefut 80 Novatec Thru Axle W/ Tires | eBay

It looks like I bought that same wheel/tire combo for my first efat several years ago - great value. Tubeless setup was not a problem as long as the rims were sealed well. The tires were good in dry or very hard packed conditions.

Remember that there is much more torque on a fat bike hub (fat or efat). When I bought this wheelset, my Novatec hub had a replaceable ratchet ring. This was good because I broke and replaced several ratchet rings over the years. I also think the replaceable ring was bad because I believe that it was the weak link in the drivetrain. When the ratchet ring broke, it jammed the pawls and broken ring parts which still allowed you to pedal but you couldn't freewheel.

One way to minimize broken drivetrain parts and wear is to shift when not under load. In the many years (and many tens of thousands of miles) road, mtn, and fat tire biking, I've not worn out any drivetrains (I don't ride in muddy or wet conditions except for the occasional rain storm or melting snow and my riding style is more spinning and finesse than force). For emtb and efat, my chains have lasted over 2k miles. I also use a wax based lube (Squirt) and reapply after every ride.

 

[BMP]

Solid information!

Brad

 

[BMP]

Hit Cedar Creek with my oldest daughter's BF. Had a blast! NEED MORE SNOW! LOL

Brad

 

[BMP]

Dropper posts? I'm thinking about doing a 400-420mm with 130-150mm drop. What is everyone running on their Fantic Fat's?

Brad

 

[JB01245]

Dropper posts? I'm thinking about doing a 400-420mm with 130-150mm drop. What is everyone running on their Fantic Fat's?

Brad

Hey Brad, I sent you a PM. Let me know if you see it.
Jay

 

[E&NonEinCO]

My first dropper post ever, for any bike, is on my 9zero7 Whiteout fatbike. This allows me to remount the saddle when my feet are sinking in the deep snow which is my main purpose for a dropper. In addition to the remounting advantage, I wanted my new dropper for the Fantic to also have "suspension." I did a lot of research and I've been riding the PNW Coast dropper suspension seat post for the past 1200 miles. The comfort is adjusted via air pressure. I have mine set to take the edge off unsuspected hits and firm enough not to bob when pedaling. It has 120mm of drop, no other option for our seat tube diameter. This dropper works great for me.

 

[E&NonEinCO]

Dropper: You will need a dropper with external routing. The cable will rout outside the seat tube and then under the motor and battery. It will enter the motor housing in the same access as the sensor and rear brake housing.

 

[BMP]

Dropper: You will need a dropper with external routing. The cable will rout outside the seat tube and then under the motor and battery. It will enter the motor housing in the same access as the sensor and rear brake housing.

I actually got a OneUp 150mm to fit with internal routing. The 180 might have fit but the assembly that the cable actuates might have been close to the top cage bolt.

Brad

 

[BMP]

I just installed an internal OneUp V2 420mm - 150mm dropper post and Wolf Tooth ReMote Light Action Dropper Lever with 22.2mm clamp. I order both items off of eBay and the post came with the travel shims and cable barrel. It did not come with a cable or cable housing. I ended up buying Jagwire bulk length cable housing around 7 feet long and a Jagwire 2300mm shifter cable. The routing required removing the left side crank arm, motor cover and battery. I fished the cable housing down through the seat tube until it was touching the motor. I used a long flat blade screwdriver to push the cable to the rear and loop it around behind the motor wire and along the bottom of the motor. I then followed the display cable and brake line out into the battery area. I clipped it in the same holders that hold the brake line. I exited the frame on the right side with the display wire and wrapped it up outside the fame with the display wire and front brake line. I did have to move my display inside the lever so I could easily be able to touch the buttons. The walk button has to be touched behind the drop lever now. No big deal. My post came in at 150psi and it was recommended to be pressurized anywhere from 200-300psi. I used my shock pump to get it up to 275psi. Overall I am very happy with this set up.

Brad

 

[JB01245]

Looks great Brad! Now I am going to have to see what size of dropper I need. Finally got out on the bike last weekend after a handful of massages on my IT Band.