New bike ordered - can you direct me to the Moterra sub forum....

[Wiltshire Warrior]

for hacks and tricks and photo's to inspire me while I wait for the Post man to to deliver it!!!!

 

[Doomanic]

Nice. Did you go for the long or short travel?

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

LT1 which I am naming the "The Yellow Monstrosity" couldnt resist Rutland Cyclings 30% discount.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

Got my grubby hands on it now.

Mine was shipped with the spoke magnet not lined up with the line on the sensor- but at least I now know where it should be!! and what happens when there is no speed sensing.

2 gripes (both easily and cheaply fixable)

The handle bar grips are too thin - you would think that they know someone ordering an XL bike would not have the hands of a 5 foot woman

For the top 3 cogs the chain is fouling the plastic guard. So I will see if I can restrict the rear meach so that it does use the top three spockets . So much for the AI Offset chain ring!!

ON the flip side it pedals really easily with the motor OFF - even up gentle inclines.

Put 4 miles on it this morning (in the rain) using Eco and it still has 75miles range!

 

[Norange]

Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the plastic guard? Apart from the bell and the pedals, it was the first thing I discarded from the Levo

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

Yes I could remove it but I will wait and see as I dont think I will use those gears on climbs?

Also I noticed qwerty selling new ones for £15 so even I can keep an eye on it and when the chain chews through it I can get new one!

Are you in North Wiltshire mate?

 

[Doomanic]

Put 4 miles on it this morning (in the rain) using Eco and it still has 75miles range!

Don't worry, you won't have to look at numbers that high once you start riding it properly.

The handle bar grips are too thin

Thin grips help reduce arm pump.

 

[Norange]

Are you in North Wilrshire mate?

No, south. Can't wait to get on the Purbecks!

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

HI Norange - yes I cycled MTB with 2 mates in May from Poole to Wareham and then Old Harry rocks and back past The Pig and back on the ferry - on normal MTBS - had a great time.

So let me know if you fancy a Emtb ride in the purbecs soon....

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

Inner tubes removed - no fear of these tires burbing off the rims they are up there with the tightest fitting tire/rim combination I have done.

Used Stans vales and the rims were already taped up - the back tire inflated and seated easily on the first attempt - the front one took 2 attempts and I soaked the bead on each with stans - so tomorrow I will find out if I have any leaks

So thats 400g of inner tubes removed and I think the next thing to tackle will be the SLX 11-42 cassette which is nearly 450G - XTR 11-40 331should drop another 120g

And why I have got a DI2 Rear mech with a servo on when I am using cable levers - I dont know!?!?!?! there must be a lighter XT non DI2 rear mech?

BTW I love the rear axel 12mm with super boost 157mm!!!!! but the exposed thread of the axel on the drive side - I am going to find a plastic/ rubber cover for that to prevent crud getting into the threads.........for now its will be plastered in grease.

and yes the saddle has been adjusted since this photo was taken....

 

[knut7]

Hmm, that XT rear deraileur doesnt look like a DI2... If I were to upgrade the cassette, I would get a heavier one with all steel cogs, to reduce wear on the drive train.

I'm currently testing the 130mm Moterra, which is a nice bike. The LT has shorter chainstays, but is there room for a 2.6" rear tyre you think? I would consider adding one offset bushing to drop the BB a bit. But I havent tested the LT, it may not be nesessary.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

incorrect content removed

I nearly went for Motterra 2 but I prefered the slacker head angle on the LT- and Rutland prices are great, so my final top 2 were Motterra SE or LT1

Mine has 2.35" Hans dampf Rear and Magic Mary front both super G (but the tread is actuially 2.5" so 2.6" would fit easily)

Coming from the pedalling mtb they look huge to me, and anyway, bigger must mean heavier = less mileage - so I am going to stick with them and see how I get on

 

[eFat]

If not already done, you should push that lever to the ON position.

 

[R120]

Personally i wouldn't bother putting any lighter bits on as you are never going to notice it on an EMTB, but i would spend the money on upgrading those brakes to some 4 Pots

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

OK so this is my first rear mech with the clutch lever- so in the "on" position it stiffens up to reduce chain slap, does it affect gear change in any way?

And brakes i agree about 4 pot but at the moment the XT's are awesome.

And for reducing weight I would imagine the only place worth while is in the rotating mass to eack out the most efficient set up to imporve acceleration and Mileage. in this I would include the cassette and chain...

I will do my first 20 mile 1000 foot ride on wednesday so I will monitor to see if I am using the large cogs, at all, as I can only think they are there for when the battery dies! if thats the case what about a down hill cassette or a road cassette 11-26?

 

[knut7]

I don't think changing the cassette or chain will have any measurable effect on milage. Use durable drivetrain components to make them last longer. I prefer the chainring, cassette and freehub body to be steel. If you want to increase milage, consider swapping the tyres. If you can live with less grip and less puncture resistance, you can save quite a bit of weight by dropping the SG casing, and improve rolling resistance with a less agressive tyre.

I still don't think you've got a M8050 rear deraileur. The pictures you posted is showing an M8000 as far as I can tell. The guide for the cable entering the derailleur isn't there on the M8050. Also there is a lump at the top of the M8050 derailleur that is missing on your photos. I've currently got an M8050 and M7000 in the shed, and I can't find anywhere to attach the wire on the M8050.

 

[eFat]

The "OFF" position is here when you remove the wheel or install the chain. Everything is really loose like this so it should be at "ON" for riding.

It definitely looks like a M8000 and not a M8050.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

Rear tire clearance on the Hans Damf 2.35" which is the size of the carcase and the side knobs are 63mm just under 2.5 (2.48")

So measuring off the side knobs there is 15mm clearance each side or 1.2" overall, so a tire 3.68" would foul the stays but anything smaller will fit.

Ps I checked the Seat stays and the gap was exactly the same!!!!

 

[knut7]

Rear tire clearance on the Hans Damf 2.35" which is the size of the carcase and the side knobs are 63mm just under 2.5 (2.48")

So measuring off the side knobs there is 15mm clearance each side or 1.2" overall, so a tire 3.68" would foul the stays but anything smaller will fit.

Ps I checked the Seat stays and the gap was exactly the same!!!!

Nice! The chainstays on this bike are surprisingly short for a Bosch bike. 443mm. So I was wondering if rear tyre clearance was very thight, but it seems 2.6" will fit. And if the negative BB drop can be sorted with offset bushings, then this might just be the ultimate Performance CX bike...

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

I don't think changing the cassette or chain will have any measurable effect on milage. Use durable drivetrain components to make them last longer. I prefer the chainring, cassette and freehub body to be steel. If you want to increase milage, consider swapping the tyres. If you can live with less grip and less puncture resistance, you can save quite a bit of weight by dropping the SG casing, and improve rolling resistance with a less agressive tyre.

I still don't think you've got a M8050 rear deraileur. The pictures you posted is showing an M8000 as far as I can tell. The guide for the cable entering the derailleur isn't there on the M8050. Also there is a lump at the top of the M8050 derailleur that is missing on your photos. I've currently got an M8050 and M7000 in the shed, and I can't find anywhere to attach the wire on the M8050.

Cheers so little rubber plug is covering a clutch adjustment screw?