My new e160 rsx

[Davvee]

Had it about a week now, so far so good. It came with a few minor problems (loose cassette, rear shock has no sag ring). The rear hub is really quite coming from my old nukeproof wheels

I’ve seen the bikes got a high and low setting but I’m unsure how to change as I would like to see how it rides in the low setting.

Coming from a Vitus esommet, I’m amazed at how different the motors are also I’ve never ridden a fox suspension bike before but they feel amazing compared to my old zeb with buttercups. Over the small stuff around Sherwood pines the 38’s feel so good.

Plans for the bike are to upgrade the mini led remote to the lcd one, change the metal pads to some organic and just enjoy it. Santa might bring me a wireless dropper if I’m a good boy haha


View attachment IMG_0651.jpeg

 

[Ark]

you can skip to 1:40
you have to take the shape it link off and flip it upside down


you need 2x t25 to undo the top of the shock, you have to hold one side or it just spins (Had to tighten mine it started to make a slight knocking sound when lifting the bike by the seat)

 

[Mik3F]

I love me E160rsx

Hoping for a Wireless dropper for my 50th next month

A parcel arrived last week in the shape of dropper post box for my lad, but I know its for me. Not sure if it is a dropper or not, but its definitely bike related

Really hoping its either a Rockshock AXS or a Magura Vyron

 

[Mikerb]

you can skip to 1:40
you have to take the shape it link off and flip it upside down


you need 2x t25 to undo the top of the shock, you have to hold one side or it just spins (Had to tighten mine it started to make a slight knocking sound when lifting the bike by the seat)

Ah...no. The RSX already has the shape it link fitted as standard. If you look at the non drive side of the shape it link you will see 2 markings...a high and low. If the end of the shock eye is aligned with the H mark the bike is on the High setting. To change that to the low setting all you need to do is remove the bolt connecting the bottom eye of the shock to the shape it link and rotate the brass bushing 180 degrees..............you can see that the bolt hole of that bushing is not centred and that is how the change from high to low or vice versa is achieved. Replace the bolt...job done. ( the video is how to fit a shape it link if you dont already have one.) 2 minute job!

(With the bike on a stand, obviously when you remove the shock bottom eye bolt the shape it link will be able to rest against the seat tube, so to prevent damage take weight of the rear triangle by removing the back wheel and stuff some foam in the gap between the shape it link and the seat tube.)

 

[Davvee]

200 miles done in 2 weeks mostly in the Peak District and a blast around Cannock and I’m really impressed with the bike. I had problems with the front brake but it’s seemed to have improved after some long hard rides in the Peaks.

Still messing with pressures in both the fork and shock, I’m currently 88kg in kit and so far I’m running 98psi in the fork and 195psi in the shock, unsure if the fork has any spacers in it from stock. The 38’s seem to sit in its travel tho, so I might add some more pressure but we will see.

Upgrades to the bike i would like to make are
1) MT7 brakes if I can find some at a good price
2) Wireless dropper to complete the wireless setup, unsure which yet
3) Rear hub ratchet for some more noise as these hubs seem silent compared to my old nukeproof wheels.
4) Thicker grips but that might be a Christmas present

All in all the bikes fantastic and I feel a definite improvement over my old Vitus E-Sommet.

View attachment IMG_0814.jpeg

 

[Mikerb]

I am quite a bit lighter than you and run 195psi in the shock so I would suggest you need more than 195.
With the Fox 38 obviously our weight difference makes it impossible to advise but in general terms all my compression and rebound settings are set to near enough half way. I am running 85 psi but about 13 kg lighter than you.

 

[Mik3F]

200 miles done in 2 weeks mostly in the Peak District and a blast around Cannock and I’m really impressed with the bike. I had problems with the front brake but it’s seemed to have improved after some long hard rides in the Peaks.

Still messing with pressures in both the fork and shock, I’m currently 88kg in kit and so far I’m running 98psi in the fork and 195psi in the shock, unsure if the fork has any spacers in it from stock. The 38’s seem to sit in its travel tho, so I might add some more pressure but we will see.

Upgrades to the bike i would like to make are
1) MT7 brakes if I can find some at a good price
2) Wireless dropper to complete the wireless setup, unsure which yet
3) Rear hub ratchet for some more noise as these hubs seem silent compared to my old nukeproof wheels.
4) Thicker grips but that might be a Christmas present

All in all the bikes fantastic and I feel a definite improvement over my old Vitus E-Sommet.

View attachment 146180

Im going for a Magura Dropper Post myself

 

[Ark]

98 on the front is probably to high for your weight.
it probably has one spacer from stock, the instructions probably tell you
I'd have thought the fork would be a bit hard

I am quite a bit lighter than you and run 195psi in the shock so I would suggest you need more than 195.

I was running mine at about 230 or so at 100kg to get 25% sag.

op might need a 600psi rockshox pump to get above 200, the cheap crap one I had could barely get 200 before it become impossible to pump.

Rockshox 600psi does it effortlessly

 

[Davvee]

I’ve got a digital pump what does 300psi. I’ve put 220 in the shock and it felt a lot better and I didn’t bottom out or anything after today’s riding. My shock didn’t come with a sag ring but looks like I have around 5-10mm left.

The fork I’ve upped to 105psi and sag looks around 20%. With me off the bike it sits about 3-5mm in its travel.

I’ve also noticed there’s a click like noises when I lift the front wheel up by the bars when the fork extends out.

I’m normally a RockShox user and this is the first fox fork I’ve had.

 

[Davvee]

Loving the bike tho

 

[Ark]

The fork I’ve upped to 105psi and sag looks around 20%. With me off the bike it sits about 3-5mm in its travel.

probably just the weight off the bike, unless you can physically pull the fork out to extend them further.

which would probably be trapped negative air pressure pulling them in.

you do cycle the forks every 10psi or so right?

 

[Davvee]

Yeah I do cycle the fork every 10-20psi with the shock pump disconnected. There’s no air coming out when I press the relief valves on the back of the fork either. I think it is just the weight of the bike tbh like you said.

I might book the fork in at tf tuned or jtech for a service in the next month or so as I’ll be close to 50hrs of riding and see what they say. I’d love to put a 180 air shaft in but I don’t think the frame would like it. I ran 180mm zebs on my old bike.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

If you’re looking at thicker grips I’d totally recommend Revgrips in the thickest size, they’ve totally eliminated arm and wrist pump for me and are so comfortable without loosing the feedback from my bars, just that slight rotation of the grips makes them so comfortable even in the gnarliest trails

 

[Davvee]

I went with peatys thick grips in the end. So far they been amazing.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

That’s fair enough mate, Revgrips aren’t cheap but so far they’ve been the most comfortable ones I’ve used, and I’ve tried quite a few

 

[Davvee]

Oops. Hopefully an easy fix

 

[Hobo Mikey]

What happened.

 

[Davvee]

Don’t know. Just got home after a ride and noticed it was loose. Guess it’s an easy fix unless the spine has got damaged

 

[EMTBSEAN]

I’d say the chain ring retainer has come loose or the ‘O’ ring had broken and fallen off causing the retainer to come loose

 

[Davvee]

I’ve tried to screw the retainer back on but it doesn’t grip anything, seems like the threads have disappeared.

 

[Mikerb]

Left hand thread

 

[EMTBSEAN]

I’m no expert but if it’s not staying tightened up I would buy a new retainer, chainring and an ‘O’ ring and do that sooner rather than later before it causes any other issues mate and I’d be tempted to get advice on possible wear on the thread’s and spline’s on the motor as I’m not sure what to look for with regards to wear on motor’s.

 

[Mikerb]

Motor crank isis splines are steel...retaining nut is ally. I have always felt the chainwheel retainer nut is single use so I agree it is best to replace it. If you shop around you can get the retainer and o ring together as a package.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Motor crank isis splines are steel...retaining nut is ally. I have always felt the chainwheel retainer nut is single use so I agree it is best to replace it. If you shop around you can get the retainer and o ring together as a package.

You should be wearing a cape and mask pal, your a super hero of the EMTB world

 

[Mikerb]

You should be wearing a cape and mask pal, your a super hero of the EMTB world

If you cannot find both sold together Sprockets Cycles sell the retainer nut...then look for bosch part number 1270016119 which is the o ring.

 

[irie]

Didn't fit the O-ring, used some blue loctite (243) and put on 'tell tales' so can see if it's coming loose.

Do not use an O-ring on this application! An O-ring is classified as a "static seal" and should not be used for a rotating application, especially this application because the torque tube (freewheel tube) and crankshaft must be free rotating. Any drag between these two components can cause run-on and may cause the chain to jump of when back pedalling.

Please remember, we would not spend thousands of pounds perfecting a virtually frictionless solution, if we could have got away with an O-ring. We even discovered that a thin film of grease on the plastic bushes, caused big issues with he motor!

 

[Mikerb]

Don't think that advice was related to this issue.....the chainwheel, locknut and motor shaft are all fixed to each other and move as one. I think the bearing man was referring to crank sealing.
There is an extensive thread on the forum discussing the issue of chainring lock nuts coming loose. Take your pick of the various theories put forward both for why it happens and how to ensure it does not happen again!!

 

[irie]

Don't think that advice was related to this issue.....the chainwheel, locknut and motor shaft are all fixed to each other and move as one. I think the bearing man was referring to crank sealing.
There is an extensive thread on the forum discussing the issue of chainring lock nuts coming loose. Take your pick of the various theories put forward both for why it happens and how to ensure it does not happen again!!

To the contrary, the advice does relate to this issue.

O-rings are used for compression fits which the chainring lock nut is not.

The O-ring behind the Bosch chainring is probably there to try to prevent the chainring lock nut coming loose, and in any case when the lock nut is tightened the locknut winding action can damage the O-ring and partially crumple it. The correct way to secure threaded parts is using a suitable threadlocker, perhaps lock wiring, or for example two nuts locked against each other (impractical in this case of course).

 

[Mikerb]

dont want to start an argument!......but that reply from the Bearing Man was in response to @Andrew426 suggesting he was thinking of putting an o ring behind the motor crank seal................the shaft rotates within the seal and if an oring was added it would have also to rotate within it. The fixing of a chainwheel to a splined shaft using a lock ring is a complete different application. Nothing is expected to rotate within the o ring. The chainwheel and lock ring and splined shaft all move as one.

 

[irie]

dont want to start an argument!......but that reply from the Bearing Man was in response to @Andrew426 suggesting he was thinking of putting an o ring behind the motor crank seal................the shaft rotates within the seal and if an oring was added it would have also to rotate within it. The fixing of a chainwheel to a splined shaft using a lock ring is a complete different application. Nothing is expected to rotate within the o ring. The chainwheel and lock ring and splined shaft all move as one.

The lockring is fastened by turning it ever tighter against the progressively compressed static O-ring.