Modded H15 finally done!

[Longfellow78]

I have added RF next sl bars, a Funn funduro stem, rear dissector, flite carbon flow saddle, 160mm xt cranks, and slx 4 pots, rrp mudguards, a custom set of 30mm rims, tubeless, full matt invisiframe kit.

Bike is size M

Weight without pedals is 20.2kg (not sure how accurate was bathroom scale.

I think I have saved 700g or so over stock.

Now need to ride!

 

[BiGJZ74]

Looks Good! Congrats!

 

[Another One]

Very slick looking enjoy!

 

[Longfellow78]

Thanks both

 

[Shjay]

Very nice

 

[Ricardo75]

How difficult was it to replace the rear brake?

Specifically, how easy is it to feed through the new hose - is there internal routing to just feed it through?

 

[Longfellow78]

How difficult was it to replace the rear brake?

Specifically, how easy is it to feed through the new hose - is there internal routing to just feed it through?

Hi. H15 comes with the upgraded hoses already. No need to change them. Only the h30 comes with the substandard hoses. You only need to get some connectors to attach the stock hoses to the caliper.

 

[Ricardo75]

Thanks Longfellow, any chance you could provide a link to the connectors that are needed…

 

[urastus]

I'm surprised you went with shorter cranks. I thought that was one area orbea was being intelligent with when they supplied longer cranks for these lesser powered bikes.

 

[Longfellow78]

I'm surprised you went with shorter cranks. I thought that was one area orbea was being intelligent with when they supplied longer cranks for these lesser powered bikes.

Almost every review or comment I have seen favours shorter cranks now. Especially on the rs tune for the rise benefiting from higher cadence. Was a recent video embn where the dude preferred 150mm cranks

 

[Longfellow78]

Thanks Longfellow, any chance you could provide a link to the connectors that are needed…

Bnineteenteam Olive Hose Adapter Bicycle Fittings Accessories, Hydraulic Disc Brake Hose, Insert & Olive Set for Bh90 Bicycle Road Bike https://amzn.eu/d/fNgVPAZ

 

[BiGJZ74]

Almost every review or comment I have seen favours shorter cranks now. Especially on the rs tune for the rise benefiting from higher cadence. Was a recent video embn where the dude preferred 150mm cranks

100% agree w/ shorter cranks for higher cadences on the Rise. Suits the RS tune perfectly.

 

[urastus]

100% agree w/ shorter cranks for higher cadences on the Rise. Suits the RS tune perfectly.

I suppose it's higher cadence vs lower torque then. I'm still surprised - I would have thought these low torque motors would benefit from more torque input . High cadence smacks of road riding to me and high torque is mtb unless you're smooth pedalling (less slip) up a not too rough but challengingly steep climb.

 

[BiGJZ74]

I suppose it's higher cadence vs lower torque then. I'm still surprised - I would have thought these low torque motors would benefit from more torque input . High cadence smacks of road riding to me and high torque is mtb unless you're smooth pedalling (less slip) up a not too rough but challengingly steep climb.

Rise is designed to give most efficient peak power at higher cadences of 75-95 rpms. If your pushing a bigger gear and powering up a climbs at 55rpms then power delivery is less by design. This is not my opinion but what just what Orbea says directly on their website.

 

[Longfellow78]

I suppose it's higher cadence vs lower torque then. I'm still surprised - I would have thought these low torque motors would benefit from more torque input . High cadence smacks of road riding to me and high torque is mtb unless you're smooth pedalling (less slip) up a not too rough but challengingly steep climb.

Higher cadence is actually more torque not less. Like in a car, lower gear = higher revs and more torque.

 

[urastus]

Higher cadence is actually more torque not less. Like in a car, lower gear = higher revs and more torque.

I don't think so; you might be thinking of power? Lower gears = more torque as does a longer lever (crank). If you have a shorter crank you can't produce as much torque as you can with a longer crank. If you're happy with the shorter crank, that's what matters. It will be less stress on the drivetrain and frame (less frame twist), and less pedal strike if you have that problem, and less stress on your knees. Good on smoother flat ground and downhill, and smoother climbs without challenging obstacles (think log or big rock). On more gnarly stuff where pedal strokes are limited I can run a higher gear and get more out of those limited pedal strokes; this includes bigger obstacles like logs and steep rocks where speed isn't your friend - think close and technical. Or those places where I have to ratchet stroke because of clearance. Ultimately it depends on where you're riding I suppose. I imagine torque isn't an issue at Whistler

 

[urastus]

Rise is designed to give most efficient peak power at higher cadences of 75-95 rpms. If your pushing a bigger gear and powering up a climbs at 55rpms then power delivery is less by design. This is not my opinion but what just what Orbea says directly on their website.

Yes, they're correct.

 

[urastus]

Almost every review or comment I have seen favours shorter cranks now. Especially on the rs tune for the rise benefiting from higher cadence. Was a recent video embn where the dude preferred 150mm cranks

Yeah, Steve earns his money. I considered this before watching, seeing that it was a promo video for miranda.

Analogue bikes were predominantly 175 cranks, maybe 170. Enthusiastic dudes used to figure out what was best for them, as a starting point they used their height (or leg length). This was pretty accurate for most of us, including me - just over 175, but I was happy with 175. Early emtb were 170 - this was already common on cheaper analogue bikes as a cost saving - it was a compromise for different size people. High end analogue bikes still tended to be size specific, as they still are. Lots of folk jumping over to emtb were (and still are) getting caught out with pedal strike. So now it's 165 and even 160. Who cares, we have the power.

So, miranda make after market cranks at different sizes for ebikes - what are they most likely to sell? Not 165, because that's what most of us already have. 160? How many folk would pay for new cranks that are only 5mm different? 155 or less! So what do they want Steve to promote?

I have a ff merida but I'm probably running at less torque and power than your h15 bikes. I use a modified (lower) eco mode. When I started on emtb I was getting heaps of pedal strikes. Now I don't - I'm pretty sure my occasional strike is what I used to be pre emtb. I could go up to 170 now; I wouldn't want to chance 175 because I reckon I'd be in trouble again. I'm also too tight to shell out money for a 5mm change - I'm enthusiastic but I'm not a great rider. Admittedly all this probably means bugger all if you're in turbo or even trail all the time.

This dude in this video is pretty good - he relates it to his size (he's small), power (speed) and torque. He's into the sort of stuff I aspire to. He does end up liking shorter cranks, but he's a smaller dude. He even lists his size and inseam length because it's relevant.

I must admit though, I just assumed that orbea had a higher bb on the lower powered rise. I just looked at the geo, it's actually lower than my merida e140! That surprises me. I think I'd be back to pedal strikes on that bike with 170's