Messy Cables

[MTB_MIKE]

YT should have shortened the cables that came with our bikes since our mtb specific forks have a limiter or stopper built in the steerer tube that prevents full rotation kinda like a Dual crown fork. It’s similar to Trek’s Knock Block. I think I will shorten all cables by about 4 inches or so to get a super clean cockpit Similar to my Trek Slash. Only problem is the messy shimano electrical wires. I need to find a cleaner solution. I’ve thought about drilling a hole in the handlebar for internal routing but I had switched to Carbon bars so that won’t work. Can anyone post pictures of your setup if you were able to clean it up a bit?

 

[Mauko]

Yep. They should have done a cleaner job. I have shortened the dropper and shifter cables but too lazy to cut the brake lines as I could end up needing to bleed and I hate it Been thinking of switching to DI2. That would remove the need for the shifter cable.

 

[Pabs]

I've shortened my shifter and dropper also, but have yet to do the brakes. Still looks like a mess frankly, and is work ongoing

I've taken some of the slack of the mode selector cable and looped it around the stem which is prob the tidiest thing so far.

 

[MTB_MIKE]

I've shortened my shifter and dropper also, but have yet to do the brakes. Still looks like a mess frankly, and is work ongoing
View attachment 23556
I've taken some of the slack of the mode selector cable and looped it around the stem which is prob the tidiest thing so far.

Brakes are Easy. I replaced my Code R’s with Shimano Zee’s and had to shorten both brake lines but i made them the same length as stock. All you need is the barb/fitting kit which is about $2-3. Once reinstalled, I did a quick 1-2 minute bubble bleed and it was fine. After all the holiday busyness i will do something about it haha

 

[Russ2550]

Brakes are Easy. I replaced my Code R’s with Shimano Zee’s and had to shorten both brake lines but i made them the same length as stock. All you need is the barb/fitting kit which is about $2-3. Once reinstalled, I did a quick 1-2 minute bubble bleed and it was fine. After all the holiday busyness i will do something about it haha

How do the Shimano Zee’s work and what rotor size F/R? I’ve been debating what brakes to switch. This is my first time on Sramd and I’m not a fan. I have 2-pot SLX’s on my first e-bike that have far more stopping power, it makes no sense?

 

[MTB_MIKE]

I bought the Zee’s for $280 which includes tax and sold my Code R’s for $180 so the switch cost me $100. I took the codes on my first ride down a trail that is 1800’ of descending and it was very wet/slippery and i had to do a lot of braking and the fingers/hands/arms were so sore. Had to pull over a few times due to having to squeeze so hard. Even dragging the brake lightly takes a bit of effort to pull the lever. Shimano is very very light action and very powerful. I’d say the Code R’s are 75% as strong as the Zee’s. But about 50% more effort to get them to grab. Make sure you get the finned metallic pads. The rotors are probably 80-90% as good as Icetech so it’s not that bad. Gotta keep the same rotors because of the computers speed sensor on rear rotor

 

[Armeniandave]

I concur with Mike on the Zee brakes. I got them for the same price and just put them on and what a difference they make. Shimano feels a lot better and the power is much more consistent. I did upgrade the fronts to dual piston as the stock one was single. Also took the opportunity to shorten the dropper post cable.