Magura MT5 Brake Question

[Shinn]

I was changing pads today and noticed that on both the front and rear caliper all of the pistons on the NON drive side do not retract all the way, just barely protruding out even after pushing them in. The other side retracts perfectly and are flush. I did remove the bleed cap and try pushing them in which made no difference.

One of the reasons I chose the MT5's over the 7's is that Magura says the 5's have a bit more space between the pad and rotor, I've never liked an immediate bite, I prefer a little squish.

They have 100 miles on them or so, pistons don't seem sticky and the rotor is true but I'm still having difficulty getting rid of the rubbing 100%. I don't seem to be near as concerned with rubbing brakes on an EMTB.

Would like to know if the pistons on the non drive side are supposed to not fully retract? Seems odd that front and rear would both have the same issue.

 

[Sidepod]

When you push the pistons back in, do they cone to a definite hard stop and are they all the same when you do so?

Are the callipers correctly cantered?

 

[Shinn]

Seems to be a hard stop and won't go in any further. When doing so they also don't come back out on their own.

do you mean centered? I've centered them in all ways I know, read and watched videos on.

 

[Shinn]

Not the clearest image but this is what all four pistons look like on the left/outside look like. All of the pistons on the other side are flush when pushed in. I don't know anything about the inner workings of the caliper. Since they are consistently the same on both calipers and all four outside pistons I'm wondering if they are supposed to be like this?

I am running Magura 8.S pads

 

[Stihldog]

Are the Magura rotors slightly thicker? Don’t know if that makes any difference …but maybe the initial setup?

 

[Shinn]

Are the Magura rotors slightly thicker? Don’t know if that makes any difference …but maybe the initial setup?

They are thicker than Sram, I thought about putting the sram rotors back on to see what would happen but haven't.

 

[Stihldog]

They are thicker than Sram, I thought about putting the sram rotors back on to see what would happen but haven't.

I’m running Shimano brakes until the Magura rotors, levers, calibers arrive. I thought that all Sram brakes use Dot fluid? I believe Blue Blood mineral oil for the Magura mt7’s.

 

[Shinn]

I’m running Shimano brakes until the Magura rotors, levers, calibers arrive. I thought that all Sram brakes use Dot fluid? I believe Blue Blood mineral oil for the Magura mt7’s.

You are correct, but i was just going to put the thinner rotor on but then after thinking about it I don't see how it will make a difference.

 

[Sidepod]

Centred as in pads in, mounting bolts slackened off, pull lever, nip up mounting bolts. Repeat several times at different disc positions.

 

[Shinn]

They've been centered.

Still curious if the pistons on the non drive side are supposed to protrude/not sit as flush as the other side.

 

[Sidepod]

I’d be amazed if that was the case from a manufacturing point of view. I’ll check mine later.

 

[Shinn]

I’d be amazed if that was the case from a manufacturing point of view. I’ll check mine later.

I find it odd that all four are the same - just barely protruding. With all four pistons on the other side perfectly flush...

I would appreciate it if you did take a look. It's driving me crazy.

 

[Sidepod]

So I had a look at my front MT5 this evening.
Took the pads out snd pushed the pistons back. All four bottomed out flush.
Popped in some new pads and they both sat nice and even.
Replaced the wheel and pumped the lever. Both pads returned evenly and the disc spins with no drag. Lever is solid.

Hope this helps?

 

[Shinn]

So I had a look at my front MT5 this evening.
Took the pads out snd pushed the pistons back. All four bottomed out flush.
Popped in some new pads and they both sat nice and even.
Replaced the wheel and pumped the lever. Both pads returned evenly and the disc spins with no drag. Lever is solid.

Hope this helps?
View attachment 62379 View attachment 62380 View attachment 62381 View attachment 62382 View attachment 62383 View attachment 62384

View attachment 62385

thank you very much for taking the time, much appreciated.

 

[Coolcmsc]

You’d do well to have these looked at by a Magura service agent (your local bike shop I presume). Here’s why:—

As mentioned with fantastic pictures above by @Sidepod above, what you describe is abnormal. No need to do any more thinking, asking here etc. The reason is the superb guarantee you have, even if you do get advice that ‘fixes’ it.

You have a fantastic 5 year guarantee with these brakes. But it’s voided quite easily if you fiddle too much — have a look at the Magura website.

For example, you MUST use the blue coloured Royal Blood, even though most believe it’s only unique feature is the colour. At the very least, if you use something else compatible, remove it and replace with Royal Blood before you return them for service…

 

[Mikerb]

Its a bleeding issue and not restricted to Magura brakes. The brake fluid has an almost direct path to the same side of the caliper as the hose attaches but a rather more difficult path to the opposite side having to pass through 2 small holes to the area behind the pistons. That also means it is more difficult to expel air in the fluid from that area. During the bleed process it is best to keep the caliper well below the level of the lever and allow the non drive side pistons, one by one, to be pushed out whilst the other pistons are held, then pushed back to expel the fluid from the reservoir area behind the pistons.........and tap the caliper........all to ensure air trapped there is passed back up to the lever end.

 

[Shinn]

I posted this in another thread but this is what my pads look like. Front brake is working ok but the rear needs another bleed. Bled it before my trip, after the first day the lever was hitting the bar, had a local shop bleed it again and now I have no rear brake again. Or very little anyway.

 

[Shinn]

You’d do well to have these looked at by a Magura service agent (your local bike shop I presume). Here’s why:—

As mentioned with fantastic pictures above by @Sidepod above, what you describe is abnormal. No need to do any more thinking, asking here etc. The reason is the superb guarantee you have, even if you do get advice that ‘fixes’ it.

You have a fantastic 5 year guarantee with these brakes. But it’s voided quite easily if you fiddle too much — have a look at the Magura website.

For example, you MUST use the blue coloured Royal Blood, even though most believe it’s only unique feature is the colour. At the very least, if you use something else compatible, remove it and replace with Royal Blood before you return them for service…

used Royal blood. will most likely reach out to magura and the the shop I ordered them from...my LBS does not offer them So had to order online.

 

[Shinn]

Its a bleeding issue and not restricted to Magura brakes. The brake fluid has an almost direct path to the same side of the caliper as the hose attaches but a rather more difficult path to the opposite side having to pass through 2 small holes to the area behind the pistons. That also means it is more difficult to expel air in the fluid from that area. During the bleed process it is best to keep the caliper well below the level of the lever and allow the non drive side pistons, one by one, to be pushed out whilst the other pistons are held, then pushed back to expel the fluid from the reservoir area behind the pistons.........and tap the caliper........all to ensure air trapped there is passed back up to the lever end.

Interesting, I think I follow the piston part...will try tomorrow. Thanks for the reply

 

[VWsurfbum]

I posted this in another thread but this is what my pads look like. Front brake is working ok but the rear needs another bleed. Bled it before my trip, after the first day the lever was hitting the bar, had a local shop bleed it again and now I have no rear brake again. Or very little anyway.


View attachment 63308

Those pads are not hitting the disc properly? is your caliper sitting above the disc? Possiply too many washers/spacers under the caliper?
When the pads wear the lever will go long as the pads are not wearing evenly.

 

[Jackware]

From memory when I changed to larger Magura discs I had the same issue on my rear brakes. There are different spacers available for 180>203 as they position the caliper at different angles relative to the disc. AFAIR one is sloped while the other is flatter.

Edit- just found this photo;

 

[Sidepod]

According to the. OP, the brakes were bled by his LBS.
Surely they would have spotted any calliper misalignment, wouldn’t they?

I k ow brakes can be tricky to bleed sometimes but they’re essentially very simple bits of kit.

If you have no braking then it’s air in the system or lack of fluid.
Air in generally means fluid out so a leak will be obvious.
If they were blead and are not holding and there is no obvious leak then that suggests a scored master cylinder/bad seal.

 

[Sidepod]

I’ve always found Maguras respond well to the “Quick bleed” method using the simple one syringe at the lever method.

 

[Shinn]

 

[Shinn]

According to the. OP, the brakes were bled by his LBS.
Surely they would have spotted any calliper misalignment, wouldn’t they?

I k ow brakes can be tricky to bleed sometimes but they’re essentially very simple bits of kit.

If you have no braking then it’s air in the system or lack of fluid.
Air in generally means fluid out so a leak will be obvious.
If they were blead and are not holding and there is no obvious leak then that suggests a scored master cylinder/bad seal.

The really odd thing is. both front and rear brakes are wearing the pads oddly, but seem to be seated properly and contacting the disk. The bleed issue is only the rear brake.

The shop did not mention any alignment issues. But did say "they're a little better" that'll be 30 bucks...there was oil around the caliper port but I don't know if it was leaking or he just didn't clean them after bleeding.

 

[Shinn]

The adapters are QM44 180-203 on the rear, front is QM42 PM6-203 on DVO Diamond D1 fork.

Thanks for the help with this.

 

[VWsurfbum]

View attachment 63335

Look bang on? Very odd.

 

[Jackware]

View attachment 63336

The really odd thing is. both front and rear brakes are wearing the pads oddly, but seem to be seated properly and contacting the disk. The bleed issue is only the rear brake.

The shop did not mention any alignment issues. But did say "they're a little better" that'll be 30 bucks...there was oil around the caliper port but I don't know if it was leaking or he just didn't clean them after bleeding.

Scratch my idea then, they look perfectly lined up in the photos ?

 

[Shinn]

Scratch my idea then, they look perfectly lined up in the photos ?

I'm even more confused now. I may put the sram rotors/adapters back on tonight just to see what happens. The storm HC rotors are not wearing on the top portion - I should have gotten an image but am at the office now.

 

[Coolcmsc]

I'm even more confused now. I may put the sram rotors/adapters back on tonight just to see what happens. The storm HC rotors are not wearing on the top portion - I should have gotten an image but am at the office now.

I’m stumped too, except to say that I’m not convinced your LBS is ‘on your side’ on this one, by which I mean they don’t seem invested in fixing this for you and then giving your bike back with working brakes.

I have MT5’s and I couldn’t be happier. My LBS (@18bikes in Hope, U.K. and famous for winning the SingleTrack customer award more times than any other LBS) told me that whilst simple to set up, there’s a ‘knack’ to getting them bled correctly that any LBS regularly fitting them will know, if only through experience of getting wrong!

Magura provide excellent support. You could contact them directly. But a good LBS selling Magura kit will already be plumbed into that.

You have your amazing 5yr guarantee and you haven’t been tempted into any amateur fiddling that would leave evidence of tampering. That will work at any LBS that sells Magura.

Consider finding another LBS that has a good rep, fits and services lots of Magura and take it to them. I think a lot of us here still think that there’s air in the back ones. None of us seems to able to explain the uneven pad wear at the front and the back.

?