Levo Gen 2 Levo snapped shock bolt

[Choc3]

Just want to make everybody aware who has a Levo to check the shock bolt.

I have a 2020 Levo which has 1 year with a RockShox Deluxe, came with the bike. Today riding after a small drop I heard something break, did a quick check but could not see anything wrong and thought it might have been the mud guard until I got to the car to load the bike and could see that the shock bolt was loose got back home to tighten but the bolt did not tighten, manage to take off and to my surprise the bolt was snapped. The worst part is that the remaining piece of the bolt is in the threaded part of the frame,which for sure will not be easy to remove.

Looking at the problem now that has happened in my view this is a bad design of attaching the shock to the Levo frame,if the bolt snaps part is left in the frame potentially damaging the frame when extracted, basically almost the whole frame needs to be replace because of a bolt.

I guess that bolt should not snap, very dangerous if you were doing a jump or other.


I will contact the bike shop I bought for warranty repair.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Whoa, ain't seen that happen. Granted, I don't own the later Levo models but hopefully your LBS can put forth a warranty claim (especially if it's a carbon front triangle).

Keep us posted dude.

 

[Choc3]

Whoa, ain't seen that happen. Granted, I don't own the later Levo models but hopefully your LBS can put forth a warranty claim (especially if it's a carbon front triangle).

Keep us posted dude.

I have alu frame not carbon. Will update once LBS gets in contact.

 

[Mikerb]

An easy out will get the stub of the bolt out...then its just a new bolt. Make sure the new bolt is prepared correctly. Your bolt clearly has been seizing in the bushing and come loose..then snapped. The reason is that the bolt was not properly prepared for assembly. The shaft of the bolt should be greased and the threads locktited...then torqued correctly and the loctite left to harden before use for 24 hours.

 

[Ripping g]

Looks like its been loose

 

[miclot]

I have had the same damage in my Levo 19, twice, it could be a misalignment problem of the threaded hole in the frame

 

[paquo]

Looks like its been loose

i did not use loctite first time i changed the shock seals and it did work loose

 

[DtEW]

The root cause of this sort of failure is almost always over-torquing of the bolt. Over-torquing can exert magnitudes more force on the bolt than any load coming through the suspension system. Sure, the final blow came by a normal (or even a peak) suspension load... but it is almost certain that the bolt was weakened prior by over-torquing.

Because if the bolt was under-spec'ed, you would see a lot more of these failures across the population of Levos. You did not describe a super-gnarly heroic drop that would have been out-of-the-norm for what should be expected from a 150mm bike.

And if the particular bolt you had was defective, it would have failed before arriving at the correct torque. Again, just arriving at that torque puts more strain on the bolt than the shock load that would be carried.

But yes, the frame could have simply been designed with a recess (for a locking nut) on the other side of the SideArm. That would been a more-serviceable design that for one-reason-or-another was not adopted.

 

[Choc3]

The root cause of this sort of failure is almost always over-torquing of the bolt. Over-torquing can exert magnitudes more force on the bolt than any load coming through the suspension system. Sure, the final blow came by a normal (or even a peak) suspension load... but it is almost certain that the bolt was weakened prior by over-torquing.

Because if the bolt was under-spec'ed, you would see a lot more of these failures across the population of Levos. You did not describe a super-gnarly heroic drop that would have been out-of-the-norm for what should be expected from a 150mm bike.

And if the particular bolt you had was defective, it would have failed before arriving at the correct torque. Again, just arriving at that torque puts more strain on the bolt than the shock load that would be carried.

But yes, the frame could have simply been designed with a recess (for a locking nut) on the other side of the SideArm. That would been a more-serviceable design that for one-reason-or-another was not adopted.

No gnarly drops just trail riding. As everybody else has mentioned before there are a few things that may have happened to cause the bolt to snap but the bottom line is that the bolt snapped and part of it is in the frame.

As you also mentioned if there was a nut on the other side that would be a better option not only on the servicble part but on the forces the bolt can withstand.
I have been looking and there are a few that have had this problem

For a bolt that costs probably less tha £10 and a possibility that Specialized may need to replace a frame I would say they need to re engineer this crucial part of the bike.

 

[Penttithefinn]

The root cause of this sort of failure is almost always over-torquing of the bolt. Over-torquing can exert magnitudes more force on the bolt than any load coming through the suspension system. Sure, the final blow came by a normal (or even a peak) suspension load... but it is almost certain that the bolt was weakened prior by over-torquing.

Because if the bolt was under-spec'ed, you would see a lot more of these failures across the population of Levos. You did not describe a super-gnarly heroic drop that would have been out-of-the-norm for what should be expected from a 150mm bike.

And if the particular bolt you had was defective, it would have failed before arriving at the correct torque. Again, just arriving at that torque puts more strain on the bolt than the shock load that would be carried.

But yes, the frame could have simply been designed with a recess (for a locking nut) on the other side of the SideArm. That would been a more-serviceable design that for one-reason-or-another was not adopted.

Whilst I agree to a certain extent, this is a steel bolt into Aluminium, so from that point of view the bolt may have a "weakened" undercut to stop the possibility of stripping the thread in the frame due to overtightening. This possibly means the bolt is a one use only fitting.

 

[DtEW]

As you also mentioned if there was a nut on the other side that would be a better option not only on the servicble part but on the forces the bolt can withstand.
I have been looking and there are a few that have had this problem

For a bolt that costs probably less tha £10 and a possibility that Specialized may need to replace a frame I would say they need to re engineer this crucial part of the bike.

It does seem like the broken-bolt-in-a-blind-hole is not a problem unique to Levos and affects far-more-expensive/difficult-to-replace things than a bike frame (eg. engine blocks, transmission casings, much-more-esoteric industrial/aeronautic parts). And apparently there are established techniques a good mechanic can utilize with the right tools to deal with such an issue. I guess maybe Speshy didn't think it's a frame-wasted issue, and merely a time-to-go-seek-professional-help issue.

 

[Choc3]

It does seem like the broken-bolt-in-a-blind-hole is not a problem unique to Levos and affects far-more-expensive/difficult-to-replace things than a bike frame (eg. engine blocks, transmission casings, much-more-esoteric industrial/aeronautic parts). And apparently there are established techniques a good mechanic can utilize with the right tools to deal with such an issue. I guess maybe Speshy didn't think it's a frame-wasted issue, and merely a time-to-go-seek-professional-help issue.

I did watch these videos last night and there are a few techniques to extract the bolts with the correct tools. I'm sure that they will be able to do so but there is always a risk and this has been shared by other people were in the process of extraction the threads have been damage and Specialized have had to replace the frame. For this reason I will only want the dealer or Specialized to do this job.

 

[Mikerb]

Once the bolt is fully screwed into its thread any forces acting on the top of the shock are equally distributed into the frame fixings and bolt. If the bolt becomes loose all the force is transmitted at a slight angle on the bolt and it will snap at the point where the thread has been cut into it. This is a very different scenario to the seized bolts in the video although the removal procedure is much the same. In each of the video scenarios the bolt has seized in its recess and the force used to try to remove it has snapped the bolt. It is very unlikely the Levo shock bolt will be seized. It should be locktited but is only tightened to 10.2nm. There is however access to the bolt stub only from one side with the non drive side shock bracket in the way! That would not prevent access to a drill bit but an EZ out used once the bolt is drilled would need to be a narrow enough diameter to go through the non drive side shock bracket.

 

[Choc3]

Update; I contacted the LBS where I bought the bike and they contacted Specialized. Specialized came back and said that I or Specialized dealer should take the stub out. My worry is the warranty. LBS did not offer to remove the stub until I asked them.
In view that I was on my own I contacted a local bike shop who are dealers and very near from my home. The mechanic told me to bring in and he would have a go as there are several things he could try. It took him five minutes to remove the stub it was loose and did manage to unscrew with a powerful magnet. I was not charged for the job, overall very good service for sure will use them in the future.

I was fortunate the bolt came out and with no damage. From now on I will be checking this bolt all the time.

Specialized have also now responded that they will send me a new bolt FOC.

Does anybody know apart from Specialized where I can source in the UK an upper shock bolt. I want to see if I can get a better grade bolt?

 

[salko]

If the bolt is properly tightened and secured (thread-locker on threads, grease on bolt head, tightened to specified torque) and presuming frame shock holes are properly manufactured you don't need a better grade bolt. In fact if you would already had stronger bolt it might not snap (or it might anyway) but you would most likely produced (unrepairable) damage to the frame ... So just get original bolt and check it frequently.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Update; I contacted the LBS where I bought the bike and they contacted Specialized. Specialized came back and said that I or Specialized dealer should take the stub out. My worry is the warranty. LBS did not offer to remove the stub until I asked them.
In view that I was on my own I contacted a local bike shop who are dealers and very near from my home. The mechanic told me to bring in and he would have a go as there are several things he could try. It took him five minutes to remove the stub it was loose and did manage to unscrew with a powerful magnet. I was not charged for the job, overall very good service for sure will use them in the future.

I was fortunate the bolt came out and with no damage. From now on I will be checking this bolt all the time.

Specialized have also now responded that they will send me a new bolt FOC.

Does anybody know apart from Specialized where I can source in the UK an upper shock bolt. I want to see if I can get a better grade bolt?

I'd stick with the bolt which Specialized will send you. If it happens again, atleast you're not validating your warranty by using a different component on the frame.
With that being said, I have noticed a trend that Specialized don't like outlining every component on their bikes (headset cups, mech hangers, rear axles etc). It's only through comparing the original part, you are able to gauge which components are compatible (that's my experience anyway).

 

[boBE]

There are a lot of bikes with that same bolt, it is unlikely the strength of the bolt is insufficient. The bolt appears to be a custom item so it is also unlikely we could find a direct replacement. If yours breaks again it means something else is wrong and has to be corrected or the next new bolt is also likely to break.

 

[Mikerb]

Semantics.....it is a machine screw not a bolt. Only important I guess if you need to look for a replacement. That should not be difficult. No one specifies a custom machine screw for such a simple application. The screw can be sourced multiple places by searching for screw diameter e.g 6mm, length, drive type e.g. hex, head type ( this one is called Oval), shank or no shank.....this one is shanked, thread type ( generally there is only the choice of fine or coarse thread..this one is fine, material...e.g. ally.

The standard bolt is fine for the job at hand provided it is properly installed.The bolt acts as the axle for the bushing in the top shock eyelet, meaning the bushing rotates a round the bolt. If the bolt to bushing interface becomes seized it will try to rotate ( loosen) the screw. If the screw becomes loose the section held in the thread will be held still and the rest of the bolt free to angle upwards......hence it snaps at the point the screw enters the thread.

As a bove, apply blue loctite to the thread of the screw and a smear of grease to the shank. Torque to spec and leave for 24 hours before use.
When checking the screw subsequently do not disturb it, otherwise the loctite bond will be broken and you will need to remove the screw, clean it, apply loctite again and re- torque....and leave it for 24 hours!!.

 

[boBE]

Semantics.....it is a machine screw not a bolt. Only important I guess if you need to look for a replacement. That should not be difficult. No one specifies a custom machine screw for such a simple application. The screw can be sourced multiple places by searching for screw diameter e.g 6mm, length, drive type e.g. hex, head type ( this one is called Oval), shank or no shank.....this one is shanked, thread type ( generally there is only the choice of fine or coarse thread..this one is fine, material...e.g. ally.

The standard bolt is fine for the job at hand provided it is properly installed.The bolt acts as the axle for the bushing in the top shock eyelet, meaning the bushing rotates a round the bolt. If the bolt to bushing interface becomes seized it will try to rotate ( loosen) the screw. If the screw becomes loose the section held in the thread will be held still and the rest of the bolt free to angle upwards......hence it snaps at the point the screw enters the thread.

As a bove, apply blue loctite to the thread of the screw and a smear of grease to the shank. Torque to spec and leave for 24 hours before use.
When checking the screw subsequently do not disturb it, otherwise the loctite bond will be broken and you will need to remove the screw, clean it, apply loctite again and re- torque....and leave it for 24 hours!!.

Have you found a source for this screw other than Specialized?

 

[salko]

Titanium Mountain Bike Bolts for Specialized Stumpjumper and Turbo Levo Shock - Black

Titanium Mountain Bike Bolts for Specialized Stumpjumper Shock - Black

betterbolts.com

 

[Choc3]

Mikerb thanks for the clarification if it is a bolt or screw.

I found this link in this forum. Best Bike. They refer as it being a screw.

SPECIALIZED SUB MY19 SJ / LEVO FSR J1 REAR SHOCK HARDWARE KIT

SPECIALIZED TURBO SADDLE INTEGRATION REAR LED LIGHT MY14-16

webshop.bestbike.de

 

[salko]

On mine there is definitely a bolt as it makes me go fast as a bolt.

 

[KennyB]

Tech service workbook does not mention Loctite for this bolt, just "lightly greased".

 

[salko]

This is from manual, blue is loctite, orange is grease.

 

[Choc3]

I have just been on the phone with known independent Specialized dealer. They have told me that this problem does happend. All shock bolts and linkage bolts should be check very often in ebikes.

When they have no stock of this screw/bolt the solution the has been to use a M6 bolt partial thread or full thread with a cup/ spherical washers turned around fits in the shock frame bracket . Loctite can be used only small amount or none.

They have no stock at the moment.

 

[Mikerb]

Dont believe everything someone in a bike shop tells you!!

A full threaded bolt or screw will damage the bushing. It has to have a shank. Whilst the original machine screw has an "oval" head I reckon a countersunk head bolt/screw would work.

nb. A machine screw is designed to be threaded into a fixing. A bolt is designed to be used in conjunction with a nut. Machine screws are available in a variety of different materials including ally. Bolts are invariably mild or hardened steel or stainless steel. Machine screws are invariably made to smaller tolerances.

An additional benefit of using loctite on the threads ( other than ensuring it does not work loose) and grease on the shank (and behind the bolt screw head) is that both treatments prevent seizing/corrosion. The grease also reduces friction ensuring the torque applied is more accurate. If you use screws/bolts of materials different to the fixed thread the metals will react with each other, especially if they are from different ends of the metal spectrum.....e.g Ally or titanium threaded into mild steel.

 

[Choc3]

Thanks to everybody that commented and Specialized for sending the screw/bolt, no problems installing and ready to ride Dunkeld tomorrow.

 

[Tobers]

My SL shock bolt worked loose soon after I had bought it. Luckily it was noticed by my LBS while I was asking about some other bling farkles. I imagine had I left it, it would have sheared in the same way.

Now I check my shock bolt regularly.

 

[08mojo]

The shock bolt, sorry--threaded pin, on my Levo Comp had loosened itself. Luckily I caught it before it broke!

Checking the pivot bolts will now be routine, and frequent, maintenance.

 

[559Enote]

has happened twice on mine. I now have a baggy of screws (OEM) and check after each ride and even ride with one in my tool kit. I'm on a Comp 19 (alloy) with a Fox coil (2021).