Rail (625Wh) Kiox retro fit top tube mount

[Coatezy]

I have a Rail 5 on order from Trek Bristol and I have also just received a retrofit kit. Trek Bristol kindly offered to fit the kit before I collect. I’ve noticed there is a Rail specific top tube mount, would I need a controller with a longer wire to use this mount? I spotted in another thread that someone did in fact fit a controller with a longer wire but I’ve not been able to find the part. Is this part necessary and if it is, does anyone know the part number?

 

[Paulquattro]

No
just get the kiox fitted and there should be plenty of wire spare .

 

[Coatezy]

No
just get the kiox fitted and there should be plenty of wire spare .

Thanks - that’s good know. Was worried based on a couple comments on here and suggestions elsewhere to move the controllers away from the lever to gain some slack that I’d need to invest in a new one.

 

[Paulquattro]

Thanks - that’s good know. Was worried based on a couple comments on here and suggestions elsewhere to move the controllers away from the lever to gain some slack that I’d need to invest in a new one.

Your welcome
I had no issues with mine at all , it all went on perfect.

 

[Hondata]

When installing Kiox or Nyon, will the 1500mm cable included in the set be sufficient?

 

[irie]

Your welcome
I had no issues with mine at all , it all went on perfect.

My Kiox Retrofit display is to the side of the stem to make it less likely to get zapped when I stack the bike. Installed by the LBS using the cables in the kit plus a Cube Acid Kiox Bracket from eBay.

 

[Coatezy]

This is the bracket I’m hoping to use by the way. Trek Knock Block Mount for Bosch Kiox Display | Trek Bikes (GB)

 

[Paulquattro]

This is the bracket I’m hoping to use by the way. Trek Knock Block Mount for Bosch Kiox Display | Trek Bikes (GB)

Thats what i used

 

[Stihldog]

This is the bracket I’m hoping to use by the way. Trek Knock Block Mount for Bosch Kiox Display | Trek Bikes (GB)

That’s what I used also.

However there is a small part needed (small triangle shape) which aligns the new holder and retains the knockblock. On the new holder there are two alignment buttons which fit into the new triangle part and prevents the holder from spinning or misalignment.

I avoided this small part by carefully drilling two holes into the existing knockblock retainer. I would not shave off the buttons as these prevent the Kiox holder from spinning or misalignment. I tried to order the small triangle part but that would take months to come in. The modification suggested came from the LBS.
It worked.
As you can see in the pic I also attached a short tether to prevent an accidental loss of the Kiox. The Kiox is magnetically attached to the holder.

 

[Coatezy]

That’s what I used also.
View attachment 102094
However there is a small part needed (small triangle shape) which aligns the new holder and retains the knockblock. On the new holder there are two alignment buttons which fit into the new triangle part and prevents the holder from spinning or misalignment.

I avoided this small part by carefully drilling two holes into the existing knockblock retainer. I would not shave off the buttons as these prevent the Kiox holder from spinning or misalignment. I tried to order the small triangle part but that would take months to come in. The modification suggested came from the LBS.
It worked.
As you can see in the pic I also attached a short tether to prevent an accidental loss of the Kiox. The Kiox is magnetically attached to the holder.

Thanks for the heads up on the knock block chip! Don’t suppose you know the part number for the chip with the two alignment holes?

 

[Stihldog]

Thanks for the heads up on the knock block chip! Don’t suppose you know the part number for the chip with the two alignment holes?

I’m not sure but the LBS ordered one…and then quickly cancelled after they told me about drilling two holes. Btw, it’s not easy to drill or align. The new chip might be an easier/better solution.

 

[Coatezy]

I’m not sure but the LBS ordered one…and then quickly cancelled after they told me about drilling two holes. Btw, it’s not easy to drill or align. The new chip might be an easier/better solution.

As you say it does appear that the parts are hard to come by and it doesn’t look like you can buy the chip independently so you have to by the whole headset assembly. Also not clear which degree to go with, seems to be 58 or 72.

 

[Stihldog]

If I recall, the small knock block chip (with alignment holes) was available separately ($12?) but the wait was unknown. I’m not sure about the degrees.

 

[Coatezy]

There is a 72 degree non block chip but can’t find a blocking one. Trek dealer wasn’t sure either. I’ll work it out though, it’s all part of the fun.

Trek Knock Block 72-Degree Headset Non-Block Frame Chip - Trek Bikes (GB)

Enhance your cycling experience with Trek Knock Block 72-Degree Headset Non-Block Frame Chip. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

 

[Stihldog]

There is a 72 degree non block chip but can’t find a blocking one. Trek dealer wasn’t sure either. I’ll work it out though, it’s all part of the fun.

Trek Knock Block 72-Degree Headset Non-Block Frame Chip - Trek Bikes (GB)

Enhance your cycling experience with Trek Knock Block 72-Degree Headset Non-Block Frame Chip. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

Hmmm . I would want the knockblock chip.
I never had this problem/option because I carefully drilled the alignment holes myself. I must of got lucky because it worked. Maybe there’s no other model.
If you’re not successful with tracking down a properly fitting knockblock chip, I’ll take mine apart and post a picture.

 

[Stihldog]

There is a 72 degree non block chip but can’t find a blocking one. Trek dealer wasn’t sure either. I’ll work it out though, it’s all part of the fun.

Trek Knock Block 72-Degree Headset Non-Block Frame Chip - Trek Bikes (GB)

Enhance your cycling experience with Trek Knock Block 72-Degree Headset Non-Block Frame Chip. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

10 minutes later; I went downstairs and took it apart.
I disassembled and reassembled the Kiox top tube holder. The alignment holes that I drilled were not perfect …but pretty darn close. When I took it apart I noticed that one of the alignment buttons had sheared off.

This didn’t seem to affect the alignment but was likely caused from a sideways bump or crash. I added new blue locktite to the screw when I reassembled.

 

[Coatezy]

Thanks

10 minutes later; I went downstairs and took it apart. View attachment 102335 View attachment 102336 View attachment 102337 View attachment 102338
I disassembled and reassembled the Kiox top tube holder. The alignment holes that I drilled were not perfect …but pretty darn close. When I took it apart I noticed that one of the alignment buttons had sheared off.
View attachment 102335
This didn’t seem to affect the alignment but was likely caused from a sideways bump or crash. I added new blue locktite to the screw when I reassembled.

Wow thanks dude! I could probably have drill the existing one or maybe removed the buttons and then used some strong tape to stick it down but thought I’d try and answer the chip question. So from what I understand all pre 2022 bikes were 58 degree, and all 2022 onwards Rail 9s are 72 degrees. I do remember the newer 9s being different geometry so that makes sense. I bit the bullet and bought this, according to this service manual there is an upper assembly (5252157) but I can’t find that anywhere in stock online. At least I’ll have some spares if the chip is correct.

 

[Paulquattro]

Just for info i never drilled mine
It was no problem the most it will do is turn a bit if you knock it hard but this also has an upside in that it is less likely to get damaged in a crash if you have one and it gets hit.

 

[Coatezy]

Just for info i never drilled mine
It was no problem the most it will do is turn a bit if you knock it hard but this also has an upside in that it is less likely to get damaged in a crash if you have one and it gets hit.

Good to know, my OCDs probably just cost me £50 for no real reason but it will be interesting to confirm which parts work if others want to do the same.

 

[Stihldog]

Just for info i never drilled mine
It was no problem the most it will do is turn a bit if you knock it hard but this also has an upside in that it is less likely to get damaged in a crash if you have one and it gets hit.

That’s a good point. The same reason I don’t over tighten the bar stem or brake lever clamps.
It almost seems as though the mounting screw is enough (no alignment buttons) to maintain the alignment. Perhaps a bit of two sided tape could also help.

 

[Stihldog]

My Kiox Retrofit display is to the side of the stem to make it less likely to get zapped when I stack the bike. Installed by the LBS using the cables in the kit plus a Cube Acid Kiox Bracket from eBay.

View attachment 102021

It’s good to see different cockpit setups. There seems to be a product available for most individual preferences and style of riding. I don’t think one is better than the other, because if it works …it works.

My near vision is not the best, so a phone mounted for maps is useless to me. I keep my phone in a pac along with my prescription bi-focals. When my Kiox was mounted on top of the stem it was often knocked off even though it was magnetically attached. I would not permanently attach it to the mount. Hence the tether idea.

When I moved the Kiox and new mount, to the top tube I also needed a a special adapter for a proper fit. Even though this new position didn’t help the vision issue, it did protect the Kiox and prevented most accidental knock-offs. I rely on mode colour (purple for eMTB mode) which is easier for me to see at a quick glance. I can’t read the fine-print but I can see the clock page (so I don’t exceed my self imposed curfew).

My never-ending quest for a clean cockpit has triggered a few upgrades also. The Sram AXS system for the derailer and dropper has helped. I added adapters to my magura MT7’s because the brake lines protruded too far out and at weird angles. Line length is more critical with these adapters.


Wireless brakes are not an option …but maybe some day in the future. In the meantime, I will have a decent setup that suits my riding style.

The adapter keeps the brake lines a little closer to the bar.

I haven’t had as many issues with the Kiox in this position. The bar clamp adapter accepts a nightlight or GoPro. (Bontrager setup I think, with a carbon bar).