Is there any way to cut the power immediately after stop pedalling?
- Thread starter Dino24
- Start date
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
People pay extra for that feature!
It gets you over the top of the hill when your legs give out!
- Thread starter
- #3
I agree but I would like to take it off to save some miles on the chain as I shift.
If you've stopped pedalling then the chain won't move ..so how is that going save any wear on the chain ?
The overrun means the motor is still turning the chainring, even if the pedals aren't turning.
It's normally longer in the higher assist modes - changing gear smoothly in Turbo can be a b1tch.
Normally you/your subconscious learns to account for that period between the stop/ease pedalling and the gear change - it's not like you're high and dry without any propulsion for the over run period and will suddenly roll to a stop
Hence, most people don't remove it.
The whole M510 assist is a bit weird compared to other motors, but you adjust to it also (I've kind of grown to prefer it for some strange reason - though tomorrow I'm having a final multi bike back to back show down to see what can go or if it's new bike day ...
)Waynemarlow
E*POWAH Master
Try back peddling just a few degrees and see what happens
Any ways I like that over run, its really good in the techie rocky bits climbing.
Any ways I like that over run, its really good in the techie rocky bits climbing.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
I believe that he is hinting at the "extra half second" of drive after stopping pedalling is catching out his gear shifts and causing clunky shifts.
When I change gear, I never stop pedalling, I just ease off the pressure slightly and make the shift. They are always smooth. So, I suspect that avoiding the clunk will become a learned behaviour. @Dino24 Persist with it!
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
Yes! I have been doing that for decades.
Number One: You have to keep pedalling or the chain won't move onto a different gear. If you just stop pedalling, shift and then put full power back on, you will definitely get a big crunch.
Number Two: Don't stop pedalling, just back off the power. This allows the chain to move across the cassette without horrible crunching.
One of the big transmission companies, Sram probably, have got some kit where you just keep the power full on when you shift and the shift is made smoothly. But if you don't pedal, it won't work!
This ^^^
Mabman
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Bafang makes a shift sensor for just this.
I have never used one although I have a Bafang motored bike but just sayin.......
I have never used one although I have a Bafang motored bike but just sayin.......
In a previous life when racing motorcycles had quickshifters which sensed when the gear lever load changed and momentarily cut ignition for long enough to enable gear change. Awesome when for example you could be brutal as f7ck changing down while braking getting into corner but still keeping control, or click through the gears on the straight without backing off.
Now do this automatically through force of habit. Wife doesn’t bless her, and her chains last about half as long as mine. 
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #13
Cool but I'll go wireless.
Mabman
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
When I did my first eMTB, a Tongshen kit years ago, I used the supplied cheap cable brake levers, I had the Avid disc cable activated brakes, which had a cutout feature built in to them. Didn't take long to figure out that I could engage the left side slightly when shifting to cut out the assistance while shifting and it worked pretty well actually. Since then I have moved on and use hydro brakes and do without the cut out feature and just as mentioned back off a little while shifting as I have done since the old days of friction shifting mtb's. So wireless as you suggest.
My motor is a UART protocol however and I was able to tune out any over run via the programming as you seek to do with a CanBus system via the Besst tool I guess? It has been amusing to me to see that the "big" manufacturers have been promoting a certain amount of over run lately as a "feature" and although my system had it I couldn't dial it out fast enough!
My motor is a UART protocol however and I was able to tune out any over run via the programming as you seek to do with a CanBus system via the Besst tool I guess? It has been amusing to me to see that the "big" manufacturers have been promoting a certain amount of over run lately as a "feature" and although my system had it I couldn't dial it out fast enough!
