is the E7000 to weak?

[MTB565]

Despite my concerns regarding Wiggles customer service i'm considering a Vitus E-sommet, seems like just what i'm looking for.

I'm looking at either the base model with Deore 1x10 and upgrading it gradually or going for the VRX because I dont like the spec on the other models.

My biggest concern with the base model is the E7000 motor and the 60nm, is it a problem? I dont have the posibillity to try the E7000.

 

[SquireRides]

No it's fine unless your main objective is to spend a lot of time riding up crazy steep stuff you'd never usually try on a normal bike.

Plenty of ebikes have 60nM of torque. Mine has only 35nM!!

From what Ive seen the E7000 is a good motor, maybe even feeling a bit more 'natural' than the older but more powerful E8000 motor.

 

[Gary]

I've had both motors. And wouldn't even consider having another E7000.
Mine shat its guts after only 5 weeks of light commuting use.
Its 60nm is a very noticeable drop from the 70nm of the E8000
And the E7000 is no more natural feeling than the E8000 at all. I'm not sure why folk even comment on this if they haven't ridden both. less torque in trail and boost is the only real noticeable difference in assistance behaviour and feel. It otherwise delivers assistance similarly to the E8000.

 

[SquireRides]

I've had both motors. And wouldn't even consider having another E7000.
Mine shat its guts after only 5 weeks of light commuting use.
Its 60nm is a very noticeable drop from the 70nm of the E8000
And the E7000 is no more natural feeling than the E8000 at all. I'm not sure why folk even comment on this if they haven't ridden both. less torque in trail and boost is the only real noticeable difference in assistance behaviour and feel. It otherwise delivers assistance similarly to the E8000.

You had a faulty unit? That shouldn't discount the motor for everyone else....

Haven't ridden the E7000, but the question was about power. 60Nm is going to be fine for plenty of riders.

I've ridden Bosch motors at 65Nm, 75Nm and 50Nm, Shimano at 70nM, Levo SL at 35Nm.

All power outputs are capable of 'doing' mountain biking. You'll have a blast!

 

[Gary]

You had a faulty unit? That shouldn't discount the motor for everyone else....

No.
I had a perfectly good unit. That lasted only 500 miles.

Haven't ridden the E7000

Why comment on mine then?

60Nm is going to be fine for plenty of riders.

I agree. I wouldn't have bought one otherwise.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

I have an E7000 motor that I've been using in my YT Decoy. There are some good things and bad things with it. The good is that it is quieter than the E8000 and I like the motor in TRAIL or ECO modes. The torque is fine, but there is an issue. In BOOST mode the bike will pull a steep hill quite well for a bit but then cuts out like from an over temperature circuit. The power is then reduced in all modes until I get over the top of the climb were it starts recovering. I've tried reducing the assistance and torque in STUnlocker but the behavior is still there. I'm having fun using it but would hesitate to buy an E7000 bike as something is just not right in BOOST mode.

 

[urastus]

I live in steep country - an e7000 would have suited me fine (assuming it worked well). I have eco on medium setting, and trail on low. I mostly use eco. When doing an especially steep technical climb, I use trail. Any more power and I think I'd lose it on the steep technical. The vitus looks good value, however also consider a merida e140 or e160 LTD (aluminium). Both cheap great value. I have the e140 and love it. The e140 is more of a trail bike; equal climbing and descending; perfect for where I am. Rob, the person behind these forums has some reviews on both.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

I realized this morning that my motor was set to a zero degree mounting angle. I don’t know how that effects motor behavior, but I set it to ten degrees which is closer to the actual mounting angle.

 

[Drmaestro]

Where do you set the mount angle? I haven't seen an option for that.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

Where do you set the mount angle? I haven't seen an option for that.

The $0.99 version of STUnlocker app lets you see the motor angle. The $30 version lets you set it.

 

[urastus]

I realized this morning that my motor was set to a zero degree mounting angle. I don’t know how that effects motor behavior, but I set it to ten degrees which is closer to the actual mounting angle.

How do you measure the angle?

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

Steps e8000 walk mode - EMTB Forums bottom of the page. Also, it's probably in the dealer manual on the Shimano support pages.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

I have an E7000 motor that I've been using in my YT Decoy. There are some good things and bad things with it. The good is that it is quieter than the E8000 and I like the motor in TRAIL or ECO modes. The torque is fine, but there is an issue. In BOOST mode the bike will pull a steep hill quite well for a bit but then cuts out like from an over temperature circuit. The power is then reduced in all modes until I get over the top of the climb were it starts recovering. I've tried reducing the assistance and torque in STUnlocker but the behavior is still there. I'm having fun using it but would hesitate to buy an E7000 bike as something is just not right in BOOST mode.

I dropped my torque setting for BOOST mode to 50NM and the motor never cut-out on some steep hills today. This seems like what I need to do to keep the motor from overheating. Very pleased with the power with the E7000, its plenty for me.

 

[Benbenben]

I dropped my torque setting for BOOST mode to 50NM and the motor never cut-out on some steep hills today. This seems like what I need to do to keep the motor from overheating. Very pleased with the power with the E7000, its plenty for me.

Can you do that on the e tube app? Or do you have to use Stunlocker? Which I guess would void the warranty :-(. Glad it’s working tho, that’s good to know ?

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

Can you do that on the e tube app? Or do you have to use Stunlocker? Which I guess would void the warranty :-(. Glad it’s working tho, that’s good to know ?

STUnlocker does not void the warranty. The $0.99 version will allow you to change the settings. This is turning down the power output, which is easier on the motor. You could change with eTube app too but you don't get the infinite adjustment of STUnlocker.

 

[Benbenben]

STUnlocker does not void the warranty. The $0.99 version will allow you to change the settings. This is turning down the power output, which is easier on the motor. You could change with eTube app too but you don't get the infinite adjustment of STUnlocker.

Oh cool, that’s even better, can you set it at 55nm?

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

Oh cool, that’s even better, can you set it at 55nm?

With STUnlocker yes. With eTube there is just three settings per mode. If your motor isn't cutting out there is no reason to dial the torque back.

 

[squeegee]

I have an E7000 motor that I've been using in my YT Decoy. There are some good things and bad things with it. The good is that it is quieter than the E8000 and I like the motor in TRAIL or ECO modes. The torque is fine, but there is an issue. In BOOST mode the bike will pull a steep hill quite well for a bit but then cuts out like from an over temperature circuit. The power is then reduced in all modes until I get over the top of the climb were it starts recovering. I've tried reducing the assistance and torque in STUnlocker but the behavior is still there. I'm having fun using it but would hesitate to buy an E7000 bike as something is just not right in BOOST mode.

May I ask why you are running the E7000 on your Decoy? Did your E8000 go down or do you have this motor as a spare while repairing/replacing E8000?

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

May I ask why you are running the E7000 on your Decoy? Did your E8000 go down or do you have this motor as a spare while repairing/replacing E8000?

My E8000 motor is fine, just because I was curious and had the E7000 leftover from my tandem bike project. I like having a spare motor around as a standby. I’ll probably wait for the EP8 before buying anymore motors. I would like to try the E6100 motor too as a comparison.

 

[squeegee]

My E8000 motor is fine, just because I was curious and had the E7000 leftover from my tandem bike project. I like having a spare motor around as a standby. I’ll probably wait for the EP8 before buying anymore motors. I would like to try the E6100 motor too as a comparison.

Thanks for the reply. Currently I'm getting some bearing play at cranks in my Decoy's E8000 that's slowly getting worse and seems like the E8000 is out of stock everywhere but the E7000 is readily available, was it fairly simple to change over in terms of the computer playing well with it? Any type of needed configuration changes, say if I just want to swap an E7000 into my Decoy?

I like to have spares of things too to keep downtime to minimum.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

It is a straight forward swap over. What is different is the power and Di2 connections are on the lower right side of the motor (as opposed to the upper left side). There is enough slack in the power cable to reach the new location but you will need to pull some slack out of the cable to reach. Same is true with the Di2 wire from the display. Other then that its like swapping out with another E8000. I had to use a full verision of STUnlocker to set the correct wheel diameter and motor angle. The E7000 is considerably more quiet which is helpful on the trails around my house were e-bikes are technically banned.

 

[squeegee]

It is a straight forward swap over. What is different is the power and Di2 connections are on the lower right side of the motor (as opposed to the upper left side). There is enough slack in the power cable to reach the new location but you will need to pull some slack out of the cable to reach. Same is true with the Di2 wire from the display. Other then that its like swapping out with another E8000. I had to use a full verision of STUnlocker to set the correct wheel diameter and motor angle. The E7000 is considerably more quiet which is helpful on the trails around my house were e-bikes are technically banned.

Awesome, that sounds like a really viable option for me. I read your previous post about cutting torque on boost mode as well. I have full version of STunlocker already, truth is I hardly have a need for boost, I ride 99% in eco/trail, but the reduction of noise would be key for avoiding dirty looks on suspect trails. Trails near my house are fully legal to e-bikes but that doesn't stop some people from blurting out their opinions.

I'm familiar with wheel circumference setting but what is "motor angle" and how does that affect things?

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

You will need to pay for the full version again for the new motor. The fee is to unlock a particular motor. The motor angle setting is unclear to me. I know people were saying to set it for the walk mode to know how much power to apply. I'm really not sure how the motor angle is used for normal riding.

 

[squeegee]

You will need to pay for the full version again for the new motor. The fee is to unlock a particular motor. The motor angle setting is unclear to me. I know people were saying to set it for the walk mode to know how much power to apply. I'm really not sure how the motor angle is used for normal riding.

Understood, so are you able to maintain a license for each motor simultaneously on a single phone for both E7000/E8000?

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

Understood, so are you able to maintain a license for each motor simultaneously on a single phone for both E7000/E8000?

Yes, I believe so. The motor I removed was the other license so I haven't been able to verify.

 

[Drmaestro]

I dropped my torque setting for BOOST mode to 50NM and the motor never cut-out on some steep hills today. This seems like what I need to do to keep the motor from overheating. Very pleased with the power with the E7000, its plenty for me.

I might try your solution, as I also have the same problem but I don't have access to my bike for now so let me ask you a hypothetical question: You've decreased the boost mode's maximum torque and are not encountering any more cut-outs. If I know correctly, the trail mode can also provide the same amount of torque as the boost mode but it does it in a linearly increasing fashion (starting from a lower torque and increasing it until it reaches the maximum torque). Did you have any cut-outs while riding on trail mode? If not, wouldn't it be better to use trail mode in hills, knowing that it won't cut-out and will provide the same torque as boost mode? Interestingly, I remember that when I am riding, I sometimes can sense the difference when I change from the trail to boost mode, but sometimes I don't feel any difference at all, which means trail mode is at maximum torque.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

I might try your solution, as I also have the same problem but I don't have access to my bike for now so let me ask you a hypothetical question: You've decreased the boost mode's maximum torque and are not encountering any more cut-outs. If I know correctly, the trail mode can also provide the same amount of torque as the boost mode but it does it in a linearly increasing fashion (starting from a lower torque and increasing it until it reaches the maximum torque). Did you have any cut-outs while riding on trail mode? If not, wouldn't it be better to use trail mode in hills, knowing that it won't cut-out and will provide the same torque as boost mode? Interestingly, I remember that when I am riding, I sometimes can sense the difference when I change from the trail to boost mode, but sometimes I don't feel any difference at all, which means trail mode is at maximum torque.

I only use BOOST when riding to the trails. My local trails are accessed from water department service roads that are very steep, but paved and smooth. I can ride up them in TRAIL mode and use ECO if I"m on a long ride, but if I"m tired and doing a short ride I tend to cruise up in BOOST. Once I'm on the trails I much prefer TRAIL mode for control. The cut-out on/off has only been in BOOST mode. However, once it starts and I drop to TRAIL the power is very weak in TRAIL. I'm not sure what the average torque output in TRAIL vs BOOST, but I suspect in TRAIL its quite a bit less then BOOST. By dialing back BOOST torque to 50NM, so far, no cut-outs. Some on-board data logging and with subsequent analysis could shed some light on the issue.

 

[electricbogaloo]

The diminishing power if you ride up for longer in boost happens to the e8000 too. I just don't know if it's a heat or battery issue.

 

[Drmaestro]

It may be a combination of both probably because I generally start having this problem after riding for a while, so the battery is not at full power. But then, the motor is not hot in the beginning so, this could also be a reason. I would expect the motor to throw an error code if it was due to overheating, but it doesn't.

 

[Hugh-Jazz]

The diminishing power if you ride up for longer in boost happens to the e8000 too. I just don't know if it's a heat or battery issue.

Good to know. I’ve never had this happen with my E8000 motor. With the E7000 it happens on steep hills. For me, its the same battery so it’s likely heat related issue.