How to stop brake chinging?

[MrMarzocchi]

Does anyone know how to stop the front brake 'chinging' as I ride along? It's like an annoying noise where the disc is bouncing off the pads or something...the bike is 3 days old, just want to get rid of annoying sounds, rattles to make it feel solid

 

[Bpietro]

Make sure your rotor isn’t bent. And if it’s true then loosen your front brake caliper bolts slightly, then squeeze front brake and hold then re tighten the caliper bolts. If your rotor is bent you can bend it back slightly to true it back up

 

[04fuxake]

Also, take the brake pads out and spread the spring clip a bit more to put more tension in them.

 

[flash]

New bike? Likely the shop hasn't quite got the calipers aligned. You'll need a 5-6mm allen key and a couple of minutes. It's easy and there are a million videos on line to show you how it's done.

Unlikely to be a rotor or spring at this early stage. Calipers are designed to handle a slightly warped rotor as it's normal for that to happen when they heat up anyway.

While you're at it check EVERY bolt on your new bike. And again after 10 rides. Shops are swamped with work. Shit happens and bolts loosen, especially in the first few rides. Especially things like headsets like to settle...

Gordon

 

[Gyre]

If caliper adjustment, rotor truing, and spreading the spring doesn't do it, take out the pads and give the levers a bit of a squeeze to see if each piston moves evenly. Be careful not to extend the piston more than a few mm or else you might pop it out of the caliper completely.

If you have a sticky piston, nothing else is likely to fix the symptom until you get the piston moving freely again.

 

[escrs]

Don't bother trying to fix the issue, the bike is 3 days old so id go back to the shop and ask them to take a quick look

Personally im not a fan of undoing the caliper and pulling the brake and then re tightening to align the caliper, this does not centre the brake caliper properly

If one piston isn't retracting properly or is coming out at an angle this will cause issues

The proper way to align a caliper is to remove the pads, fully retract the pistons then centre the caliper over the disc so there is equal space on both sides and then tighten the bolts keeping the caliper central

Then refit the pads and pull the brake and everything should be centred properly, if after that you still have some rub then the pistons need looking as one could be sticking

Hope do a good video on how to do this, caliper alignment starts at 5.40 mins

 

[MrMarzocchi]

New bike? Likely the shop hasn't quite got the calipers aligned. You'll need a 5-6mm allen key and a couple of minutes. It's easy and there are a million videos on line to show you how it's done.

Unlikely to be a rotor or spring at this early stage. Calipers are designed to handle a slightly warped rotor as it's normal for that to happen when they heat up anyway.

While you're at it check EVERY bolt on your new bike. And again after 10 rides. Shops are swamped with work. Shit happens and bolts loosen, especially in the first few rides. Especially things like headsets like to settle...

Gordon

Don't bother trying to fix the issue, the bike is 3 days old so id go back to the shop and ask them to take a quick look

Personally im not a fan of undoing the caliper and pulling the brake and then re tightening to align the caliper, this does not centre the brake caliper properly

If one piston isn't retracting properly or is coming out at an angle this will cause issues

The proper way to align a caliper is to remove the pads, fully retract the pistons then centre the caliper over the disc so there is equal space on both sides and then tighten the bolts keeping the caliper central

Then refit the pads and pull the brake and everything should be centred properly, if after that you still have some rub then the pistons need looking as one could be sticking

Hope do a good video on how to do this, caliper alignment starts at 5.40 mins

I wasn't particularly happy with how the bike was set up. It was murderer trying to get the basic pedals off because they didn't grease them ?‍ headset wasn't tightened properly as well... If I ride straight there's only a little touch but when I move the bike side to side that's where the Ching comes in

P.S can't take it back to shop as it's 400 miles away ? it'll be under warranty though right so could I take it to another GIANT retailer? I honestly don't think it's been setup correctly

 

[paske]

Had the same thing after 2 rides with my new ebike and it was one of the caliper screw which came loose...

 

[escrs]

can't take it back to shop as it's 400 miles away

Best thing to do is find a good local bike shop and explain everything and ask them to check the bike over to make sure everything is correct and tight

 

[Mikerb]

If it "chings" when you steer side to side, you have play in the front hub and that could be something as simple as not enough torque applied to the through axle...especially if it is the lever type. If it is the lever type it should be set so that the correct torque is when it takes reasonable pressure by hand to close the lever and the lever is left facing up parallel with the fork leg.

 

[fenwick458]

Don't bother trying to fix the issue, the bike is 3 days old so id go back to the shop and ask them to take a quick look

*ahem* you what?

seriously just learn how to do it yourself, these bikes require maintenance and fiddling with all the time, and if you don't figure out how to do this (easily one of the simplest tasks on a bike) then it isn't going to go well in the future.

Moving the calliper to stop binding needs to be done every now and then, you can't be taking the bike to the shop every time it needs that.
plenty of vids on youtube

 

[Mikerb]

If it "chings" when you steer side to side, you have play in the front hub and that could be something as simple as not enough torque applied to the through axle...especially if it is the lever type. If it is the lever type it should be set so that the correct torque is when it takes reasonable pressure by hand to close the lever and the lever is left facing up parallel with the fork leg.

....forgot to say....if it is the allen key tightening type the torque for a front through axle is typically about 10nm.

 

[Doug Stampfer]

If it "chings" when you steer side to side, you have play in the front hub and that could be something as simple as not enough torque applied to the through axle...especially if it is the lever type. If it is the lever type it should be set so that the correct torque is when it takes reasonable pressure by hand to close the lever and the lever is left facing up parallel with the fork leg.

I had this happen on my rear brake going uphill around corners- Centered the brakes a few times then took it to the bike shop. They tightened the rear wheel (facepalm emoji).
Teachable moment though as I know know how much hand pressure is correct for tightening.