How quickly are people getting through cassettes?

[AverageJoeMTB]

I'm 500KM in and I've got gear slipping really bad on the 3 small rings. Running di2 so not cable stretch. Replaced the hanger just the other week too. Chain is stretched a bit so looking to do both together.

What sort of mileage are others getting? I'd have expected a bit more. I'm not ham fisted changing either and lift and shift when changing gear.

Any recommendations for chain or cassette, or it just find the best deal on an SLX/XT?

 

[Doomanic]

I got about 1500 miles out of my first cassette and only changed it because I trashed a mech and damaged some teeth.

 

[Gary]

500 miles is pretty low mileage. have you tried adjusting the B-tension screw to give the chain slighlty more chain wrap on the smaller sprockets? (it can help, just make sure not to raise the top jockey wheel too far that it impedes shifting on your largest sprockets)

Haven't actually worn a Shimano cassette out on an Emtb yet.

1800miles on my first ESommet (original 11spd SLX cassette and original chain).
I'm currently somewhere around 1300 miles on my second ESommet (original SLX cassette and chain). got a tiny bit of shain slip the other day and adjusted the B-tension and it's stopped slipping. The chain and smaller sprockets are pretty worn though as I'd been commuting on it so only really using the 15, 13 and 11t

Personally I wouldn't ever want Di2 on an emtb. (i think it's lovely on roadbilkes). but it actually removes some of your shift control as it simply powers the servo as soon as you press/release the button and moves the mech cage automatically instead of the fine control you have with a mechanical lever and cable. Add mud n debris to this and you have even less control to ease a shift gently.

I wish drivetrain wear was the least of my issues with Emtbs. I'm on my 4th E8000 motor and it's bearings have the same play/creaking again they've all developed.

 

[Rusty]

On my Scott I have 1200km on the original cassette and it looks like I will double that before it needs replacing.

 

[33red]

i am on 10 speeds, with 3,300 kms looks new, feel new.
Maybe you picked up a branch and debris shorten the life.
I check between cogs and clean with a knife if needed.
That is why i prefer 42T max.

 

[iXi]

Currently at 2500ks, will replace when my current chain reaches 0.5. This KMC chain is proving super resilient. Previous NX chain lasted 850 then a GX chain lasted 650, this KMC is at 1000 and not looking like stretching. Some gears aren't shifting as smooth as the Sram chain but I'm not getting any slipping as yet.

 

[HORSPWR]

i am on 10 speeds, with 3,300 kms looks new, feel new.
Maybe you picked up a branch and debris shorten the life.
I check between cogs and clean with a knife if needed.
That is why i prefer 42T max.

Pretty sure the OP has had a good gander at his worn cassette and would've noticed even the slightest bit of debris in there if there was any!
And 42s avoid branches but 46s have a picnic with them

 

[33red]

Pretty sure the OP has had a good gander at his worn cassette and would've noticed even the slightest bit of debris in there if there was any!
And 42s avoid branches but 46s have a picnic with them

I use a narrow bar on a + bike so i can ride in the rough and when we are not allways on manicured trails the last thing we like is a 50 T. If 42 T works why should i use more? It is like my 4.8 fatbike i use the sides instead of putting a foot down generaly i can pass or allow others riders to pass me. How do you explain i will do 10 X more mileage?

 

[AverageJoeMTB]

Thanks everyone. I'm well short of others mileage.

Cassette is clean, I clean the drivetrain after every ride. It's the only thing I do clean ?

I've been using ceramic lube and researching today I've read of increased wear so that could be related but I'd still expect more mileage. I'm switching to squirt on the recommendation of a friend see if that helps on the new chain and cassette. The cassette doesnt look too bad, I've had worse that still shift fine.

I'll see if I can push the B screw any more. I set it up like I normally do, which is take it past the limit so it catches on the way up and then back off a touch until it clears. I've never measured with the chain off but this method has always worked for me before.

I did consider taking a few links out but I'd assume the stock chain should be correct for the bike.

I'm going to see if there is any further adjustment on the Di2. I know the wireless one can be micro adjusted but the steps one isn't well documented.

Never hurts having a spare cassette and chain so I'll just order one and see if it helps.

Gary, don't get me started on the BB ? having to rebuild my second bike so I can return the sommet to wiggle. Local bike shop weren't too sure about my Vitus warranty if they removed and shipped the motor to Shimano. They said they'd do it though but turn around would still be weeks. I'll send Vitus and email and see what they say.

 

[aarfeldt]

I'm going to see if there is any further adjustment on the Di2. I know the wireless one can be micro adjusted but the steps one isn't well documented.

This may seem stupid,,,,but you do know how to electronic adjust the Di2, right ?
Like...put it in 5. gear, adjust mode, tap it till the chain begins to touch the next gear, then go 4 steps back, done.

 

[AverageJoeMTB]

This may seem stupid,,,,but you do know how to electronic adjust the Di2, right ?
Like...put it in 5. gear, adjust mode, tap it till the chain begins to touch the next gear, then go 4 steps back, done.

Yes, cheers. It took me ages to find it though. Most stuff covers the road Di2. It's actually straight in the middle gear but I might try - + a bit and see if it moves the issue, but the issue was apparent on the xt cable derailure before I snapped it a few weeks back (Hence new Di2 and hanger). it's got progressively worse over the last 2-3 weeks.

 

[Russell]

I've just gone over 1000 miles on my current slx cassette with the third chain & sprocket. All is working at the moment but I won't be able to get another chain on this cassette as it's now too worn. I spray the chain with 3in one oil nearly every ride.

 

[iXi]

Thanks everyone. I'm well short of others mileage.

Cassette is clean, I clean the drivetrain after every ride. It's the only thing I do clean ?

I've been using ceramic lube and researching today I've read of increased wear so that could be related but I'd still expect more mileage. I'm switching to squirt on the recommendation of a friend see if that helps on the new chain and cassette. The cassette doesnt look too bad, I've had worse that still shift fine.

I'll see if I can push the B screw any more. I set it up like I normally do, which is take it past the limit so it catches on the way up and then back off a touch until it clears. I've never measured with the chain off but this method has always worked for me before.

I did consider taking a few links out but I'd assume the stock chain should be correct for the bike.

I'm going to see if there is any further adjustment on the Di2. I know the wireless one can be micro adjusted but the steps one isn't well documented.

Never hurts having a spare cassette and chain so I'll just order one and see if it helps.

Gary, don't get me started on the BB ? having to rebuild my second bike so I can return the sommet to wiggle. Local bike shop weren't too sure about my Vitus warranty if they removed and shipped the motor to Shimano. They said they'd do it though but turn around would still be weeks. I'll send Vitus and email and see what they say.

It may be just coincidence but I changed to squirt from an oil based lube for this KMC chain. Unsure if that's why it's lasting longer or could just be that the chain is better manufactured.

One thing is I'll be sticking with squirt, it's dry and dusty in AUS so the chain is super easy to maintain, none of that oily mud goop build up. 10 seconds to wipe chain down and relube.

 

[Jamsxr]

I’m running a SRAM PG-1230, 12 sp cassette and GX Eagle chain. Cleaning every 2-4 rides and use Pedro’s chain lube - the stuff is amazing!

So far 950km of dry-ish Surrey Hills trails and bike parks, and it’s still super precise. Riding in the wet is bound to seriously increase wear and I’ve not done much of that. I do keep my cadence up and try to back of between shifts.

After being very conscious about increased wear riding an eBike, I’m really surprised that after 1,000km all consumables are working well and don’t look like they need replacing anytime soon. I did manage to bend an SDG seat and snap a pedal though ?

 

[HORSPWR]

Thanks everyone. I'm well short of others mileage.

Cassette is clean, I clean the drivetrain after every ride. It's the only thing I do clean ?

I've been using ceramic lube and researching today I've read of increased wear so that could be related but I'd still expect more mileage. I'm switching to squirt on the recommendation of a friend see if that helps on the new chain and cassette. The cassette doesnt look too bad, I've had worse that still shift fine.

I'll see if I can push the B screw any more. I set it up like I normally do, which is take it past the limit so it catches on the way up and then back off a touch until it clears. I've never measured with the chain off but this method has always worked for me before.

I did consider taking a few links out but I'd assume the stock chain should be correct for the bike.

I'm going to see if there is any further adjustment on the Di2. I know the wireless one can be micro adjusted but the steps one isn't well documented.

Never hurts having a spare cassette and chain so I'll just order one and see if it helps.

Gary, don't get me started on the BB ? having to rebuild my second bike so I can return the sommet to wiggle. Local bike shop weren't too sure about my Vitus warranty if they removed and shipped the motor to Shimano. They said they'd do it though but turn around would still be weeks. I'll send Vitus and email and see what they say.

I was using a ceramic lube, I'm not sure if it was accelerating any wear but it sure was a bitch to clean the build up off, I couldn't find a cleaner that would do it, I had to physically scrape it off. Hence I also switched to Squirt. About once every 5th ride I'd use a tri-lube to get some lube deep down into the rollers. I threw my nearly full bottle of ceramic lube in the bin.

 

[AverageJoeMTB]

Glad squirt seems popular, sounds like it was a good recommendation ?

 

[Rusty]

Squirt is good - have been using it for 4 or 5 years now.

 

[z1ppy]

got around 1500miles out of mine and it was still working but was missing a number of teeth, and I was due for a big weekend away so changed it

https://www.flickr.com/gp/15253377@N00/P4452o

 

[Akiwi]

I just replaced mine with 4500 KM. It looked in good nick.
Only reason I changed it was that I got a new Motor and a new front chainring on my Bosch motor. So I replaced my Chain for the 3rd time, and figured I should do the casette also.
Also I am doing a 500 km Trans Alp in 2 weeks, so figured everythng should be as tip top as possible.

 

[GrandesRoues]

You should check the chain for elongation. As soon as it reach 0.5, you shoyld change. This way the expensive cassette will last long !
I m a squirt fan too.

 

[Akiwi]

You should check the chain for elongation. As soon as it reach 0.5, you shoyld change. This way the expensive cassette will last long !
I m a squirt fan too.

0.5 is a bit overenthusiastic in my opinion. I do mine when it reaches 0.75 and have had no problems.
Just learn to manage your gear changes.

 

[gtaadicto]

I have 1540 km on my KMC E11 chain and it is still a bit below 0.75 wear. I guess the cassette will last 4500-5000 Km

 

[khorn]

I have done about 1200 km on my Sunrace cassette together with 2 cheap Shimano chains that I rotate. Chains are still way below 0.5 and shifting still as good as the first day.
I will not recommend the 11 speed Sunrace cassette as it is noisy and shifting is not that crisp compared to Shimano stuff - I’m running XTR on my Levo for the reference.

Karsten

 

[z1ppy]

You should check the chain for elongation. As soon as it reach 0.5, you shoyld change. This way the expensive cassette will last long !

IME If you did that it would be expensive, I bought 2 chains with my new cassette & was a .75 within a month (160 miles). Whereas that 1500 miles I did on that quite worn cassette, was one single chain. Which is why I'm happy using a cheap and cheerful slx cassette and binning it without regret after a year.

 

[Rusty]

IME If you did that it would be expensive, I bought 2 chains with my new cassette & was a .75 within a month (160 miles). Whereas that 1500 miles I did on that quite worn cassette, was one single chain. Which is why I'm happy using a cheap and cheerful slx cassette and binning it without regret after a year.

I think the biggest thing for many to realise is that the cheaper cassettes are probably going to give better life on a ebike. Have talked to several guys who always use the top of the line components and have found durability very poor on the ebike compared to their conventional bikes. That is probably due to the extra power & torque put through the system compared to human power.
I expect a few more ebike specific components to come along shortly to counter this.

 

[Monkeychops]

900 miles on 1st, 400 on 2nd.
Half is commuting, mostly in top gear.
Trek powerfly.

 

[Polaris]

Has anyone else checked their stock chain length and found it to be ok? After always suffering pish gear changes from delivery and very recent ghost slippage I decided on a new e-bike specific EMC chain (e11 EBT) before it mangled the cassette etc. After comparing the chains for length before shortning, the stock one was the same length! So it looks like my bike build was a friday afternoon job, the newly shortened chain has sorted my shifting out radically.

 

[Gary]

How many links did yours come with?
and how did you measure when fitting the new chain?
shock fully compressed in largest sprocket and through the mech?
or the old largest sprocket and add two links thing?

I'd have thought your B-tension adjustment would be more likely to be out (from new) than your chain being massively too long.

mine came with 116
which is perfect with the 36T ring (I switched to) and the stock 11-46T cassette.
with the stock 34T ring 114 would have been on the short side but workable.
Anything shorter than 114 would lock out the suspension (and probably rip the mech clean off) if bottomed hard in the lowest gear.
not that you're ever likely to do bottom a 170mm travel bike in bottom gear in reality.

 

[Polaris]

How many links did yours come with?
and how did you measure when fitting the new chain?
shock fully compressed in largest sprocket and through the mech?
or the old largest sprocket and add two links thing?

I'd have thought your B-tension adjustment would be more likely to be out (from new) than your chain being massively too long.

mine came with 116
which is perfect with the 36T ring (I switched to) and the stock 11-46T cassette.
with the stock 34T ring 114 would have been on the short side but workable.
Anything shorter than 114 would lock out the suspension (and probably rip the mech clean off) if bottomed hard in the lowest gear.
not that you're ever likely to do bottom a 170mm travel bike in bottom gear in reality.

It was the full 122 links mate, could believe I hadn’t spotted it or that the derailleur hadn’t eaten itself! Working it out was a little easier than that, I asked my mate with the same bike to let me know what he had and 118 on his stock?! I dropped to 116 as i’ve also gone to 36t but sounds like it’s hit and miss, his maybe a tad too long going off that too then.

 

[Gary]

Hmm...
kinda odd, eh?

I'm now trying to remember if in actual fact I shortened my chain from 118 to 116 when fitting the 36T/ It's my second ESommet so I changed the ring straight away knowing the 34 was too small. I do tend to set-up new bikes to my exact preference right down to stuff like chain length etc so may well have.
I'm almost certain it wasn't 122 links new though.