Hope ebike cranks

[estoril]

Hi,
I know the Hope cranks are expensive but I am looking for a good quality 155mm crankset as the Miranda ones seem to be less than the best.

Does anyone here run the Hope cranks? I am wondering if the 8mm hex has a hole in it like the Praxxis ones do as this allows a nice simple bike stand to be used when cleaning!

Thanks.

 

[estoril]

just found a video on YT, looks like they are!

 

[DuncanDoughnuts]

Cranksets - E-Bike Crank

seems all the pictures are of them on a spec levo so that should help

 

[estoril]

Yep, got a set now and they fit great and do indeed have a hole through the middle of the 8mm hex

 

[cozzy]

I can't work out what's wrong with mine, I'm not overly used to the Isis fitment. I bought and had them fitted by a very well respected shop.
After a few rides I checked and the drive side bolt was loose so I can cranked it up. It continued to loosen so I eventually stripped, cleaned, greased and used loads of locktite and some dobs of paint that I thought would fix it.
But no, it still loosens. As you can see from the paint marks it's allowed at least another 100 degree of tightening from the 3 oclock position to 7 o'clock.
I don't see what's causing this, are the splines damaged? I crank them down pretty hard, but I have sheared a similar bolt in the past by overtightening, so im being careful. 50nm isn't that much really.
So to summerize, the bolt is coming loose without actually moving, I don't see how this is possible.

 

[Barto]

I can't work out what's wrong with mine, I'm not overly used to the Isis fitment. I bought and had them fitted by a very well respected shop.
After a few rides I checked and the drive side bolt was loose so I can cranked it up. It continued to loosen so I eventually stripped, cleaned, greased and used loads of locktite and some dobs of paint that I thought would fix it.
But no, it still loosens. As you can see from the paint marks it's allowed at least another 100 degree of tightening from the 3 oclock position to 7 o'clock.
I don't see what's causing this, are the splines damaged? I crank them down pretty hard, but I have sheared a similar bolt in the past by overtightening, so im being careful. 50nm isn't that much really.
So to summerize, the bolt is coming loose without actually moving, I don't see how this is possible.
View attachment 35726

Hi. Sorry can't help you out with your problem. In fact the reason I've ordered some Hope crank arms for my Levo is that I have the same problem with cranks falling off mid ride and was hoping these would fix that problem. Please let me know if you find a solution. Also I was wondering if they came with crank boots in the box or if you fitted any? If you did, which ones fit best? Cheers

 

[Hattori-Hanzo]

I can't work out what's wrong with mine, I'm not overly used to the Isis fitment. I bought and had them fitted by a very well respected shop.
After a few rides I checked and the drive side bolt was loose so I can cranked it up. It continued to loosen so I eventually stripped, cleaned, greased and used loads of locktite and some dobs of paint that I thought would fix it.
But no, it still loosens. As you can see from the paint marks it's allowed at least another 100 degree of tightening from the 3 oclock position to 7 o'clock.
I don't see what's causing this, are the splines damaged? I crank them down pretty hard, but I have sheared a similar bolt in the past by overtightening, so im being careful. 50nm isn't that much really.
So to summerize, the bolt is coming loose without actually moving, I don't see how this is possible.
View attachment 35726

Did you find a solution to this problem @cozzy

 

[cozzy]

Did you find a solution to this problem @cozzy

This was a while back!
I'm trying to work out what im saying in that post as it's poorly explained.
The crank never came loose on the splines. The bolt needed further tightening regularly despite never backing off. Perhaps the crank was never fully seated due to my worry of overtightening.

I recall I went back to the stock 165mm cranks as i didn't get on with 155mm anyway.

My current bike has hope 165mm cranks with no issues. I do check them regularly.

I missed the question about the crankboot also. Raceface alloy are the ones.

 

[Spin]

I have had the same issue with 5DEV and Pinnd cranks. The 5DEV required tightening of both bolts every 50kms or so. The Pinnd drive side arm can be nipped up after every ride which for me is usually around 30 kms. Both brand of crank arms never came loose on the spline because I checked and tightened them regularly. I guess they potentially could if unchecked ?

 

[Dax]

This was a while back!
I'm trying to work out what im saying in that post as it's poorly explained.
The crank never came loose on the splines. The bolt needed further tightening regularly despite never backing off. Perhaps the crank was never fully seated due to my worry of overtightening.

I recall I went back to the stock 165mm cranks as i didn't get on with 155mm anyway.

My current bike has hope 165mm cranks with no issues. I do check them regularly.

I missed the question about the crankboot also. Raceface alloy are the ones.

Did you use a torque wrench to tighten them?

 

[Mikerb]

A few reasons why a bolt may come loose.....
In general a high torque fixing not subject to vibration or heat ,needs only to have clean undamaged threads lightly lubricated with grease or anti seize. High torque on bike fixings being anything over about 25nm. The torque setting is calculated to be the point of maximum friction between the threads but below the bolt shear point. Incorrect torque is the main reason for a bolt rated at 50nm coming loose. Lack of lubrication or incorrect use of a torque wrench being the main reasons. For a torque wrench to achieve correct torque the bolt needs to be below that setting and arrive at the setting with the torque wrench in motion.
Obviously a poor quality incorrectly engineered or damaged bolt will always cause problems......overtorqueing a bolt or a bolt that has come loose are both likely to damage a bolt.
Smaller/ lower torque bolts are often recommended to be fitted with a thread lock. Blue locktite is a popular option. Applied wet it both lubricates the thread and once set increases the bond between the threads. It needs 24 hours undisturbed to set however. A re -used locktite bolt should have dried locktite removed before applying fresh. Heads/untreated shoulders of the bolt should be greased.

 

[Hattori-Hanzo]

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated

I've got some Hope cranks coming and have had terrible trouble with the stock E-thirteen cranks constantly coming loose, regardless of how tightly the bolt was torqued, only thing I didn't try was thread lock, I didn't like the idea of using it as I often grease the Bosch bearing seals, and from past experience it can be a total nightmare removing a thread locked bolt.

I see that the hope crank bolts have a 8mm hex head for fitting them, but I've also seen a special tool, with a hex head in the middle and a sort of large star head around the outside. Is this tool needed for fitting/removing the cranks, as again I'm likely to do this quite often and don't want to risk damage to the bolt/cranks

tool

Cheers.

 

[Mikerb]

hope cranks have the self extracting system so you just need an 8mm hex. The tool you saw is for removing the captive self extraction nut if you ever needed to do that ( really the only time you would do that is if you wanted to remove the existing extraction nut to change to a different colour)

 

[Hattori-Hanzo]

Nice one, cheers @Mikerb