Hi from Brisbane Australia.

[Uphill Battle]

Looking forward to learning a lot here as I work out which eMTB to get. I am an older rider with multiple impacts from old sport injuries.

 

[Kootbiker]

Sounds like your a prime candidate for a Rocky Mountain Altitude.

 

[steve_sordy]

Looking forward to learning a lot here as I work out which eMTB to get. I am an older rider with multiple impacts from old sport injuries.

Welcome to the Forum!

For starters get a full suss, and NOT a hardtail. Yes, I know they are cheaper, but hardtail ebikes ride differently to ordinary HTs. This forum has many posts from riders selling their HTs because they couldn't get on with them.

Consider 160mm front suspension and 150mm rear as a minimum. Yes, I know they are heavier than a 130, but you won't notice. If your legs are not long, be wary of a 29er rear wheel. When you are descending and your arse is hanging over the rear wheel, a 29er wheel will buzz your arse whereas a 27.5 will not. So, consider either a Mullet or a 27.5 both ends (can't think of one TBH, but plenty of mullets). Try one out, assume the position in the bike shop if they won't let you test ride, I would not give a toss about how it looks. Or ask someone that you meet on the trail, or a mate who already has one. It doesn't have to be an emtb, just a 29er.

"Older rider" means different things to different people. The average age on here is quite high. People come on and their first post is of a similar nature, old, worn out etc. Then they reveal they are in their late 50's! I am, 73, my mate is 73 and he is still snow-boarding as well as emtb! In addition, I know I am not the oldest, some are in their 80's. But to be certain, if not for my emtb, I would have had to either give up riding an mtb or remain severely restricted to how far and how hard I could ride. I also discovered that once I started to ride an emtb, because my knees were not as stressed, they started to recover!! So with a bit of luck, you will discover that buying an emtb was one of the best investments you have ever made.

PS: Wear your elbow guards, knee& shin guards, as well as your bike helmet and gloves. You will need them, especially at first until you get used to the bike. And then you will still need them when you do get used to the bike and go even faster!

 

[Paulquattro]

Welcome to the site

 

[Renton_Yorkshire]

Welcome to the site indeed! I'm also fairly new on here, like me you'll pick up all sorts - right place to come

Whichever you eventually get, you'll always be going quicker than you think you are on an emtb, so as said, decent protection is a given - especially for the 'brain can' up top!

 

[steve_sordy]

I've been thinking some more about my post#3 above.

When I said at least 160/150 travel, I was trying to summarise a consensus of what I have read on here. Many have more, but the geometry is slacker and that has consequences that you may not like for your first emtb.
For your first emtb, honestly, I would recommend that you go with 160 as a max at either end.
By "heavier but you won't notice", I was thinking about the overall weight of the bike being in the 22-25kg area vs an ordinary mtb being 9-10kg lighter. With a muscle-powered machine, weight very much is important, but don't forget that you have a powerful motor to assist you! The only time I notice the weight of my 22.4kg emtb is when I'm trying to lift it over a five-bar gate!

 

[The Hodge]

The only time I notice the weight of my 22.4kg emtb is when I'm trying to lift it over a five-bar gate!

This is optional ..most of us just lift the sneck and open the gate ..

 

[steve_sordy]

This is optional ..most of us just lift the sneck and open the gate ..

Many of the gates that I have come across have been locked!
Those kissing gates and tall "climb over steps" (made up that name) are also tricky.

Edit: just remembered the word I was looking for - "stile"

 

[The Hodge]

Many of the gates that I have come across have been locked!
Those kissing gates and tall "climb over steps" (made up that name) are also tricky.

Rumour has it though that you lift the bike over anyway ..just to give yourself more of a workout

 

[Uphill Battle]

Welcome to the Forum!

For starters get a full suss, and NOT a hardtail. Yes, I know they are cheaper, but hardtail ebikes ride differently to ordinary HTs. This forum has many posts from riders selling their HTs because they couldn't get on with them.

Consider 160mm front suspension and 150mm rear as a minimum. Yes, I know they are heavier than a 130, but you won't notice. If your legs are not long, be wary of a 29er rear wheel. When you are descending and your arse is hanging over the rear wheel, a 29er wheel will buzz your arse whereas a 27.5 will not. So, consider either a Mullet or a 27.5 both ends (can't think of one TBH, but plenty of mullets). Try one out, assume the position in the bike shop if they won't let you test ride, I would not give a toss about how it looks. Or ask someone that you meet on the trail, or a mate who already has one. It doesn't have to be an emtb, just a 29er.

"Older rider" means different things to different people. The average age on here is quite high. People come on and their first post is of a similar nature, old, worn out etc. Then they reveal they are in their late 50's! I am, 73, my mate is 73 and he is still snow-boarding as well as emtb! In addition, I know I am not the oldest, some are in their 80's. But to be certain, if not for my emtb, I would have had to either give up riding an mtb or remain severely restricted to how far and how hard I could ride. I also discovered that once I started to ride an emtb, because my knees were not as stressed, they started to recover!! So with a bit of luck, you will discover that buying an emtb was one of the best investments you have ever made.

PS: Wear your elbow guards, knee& shin guards, as well as your bike helmet and gloves. You will need them, especially at first until you get used to the bike. And then you will still need them when you do get used to the bike and go even faster!

Thanks Steve for the reply and the info.
Yes, pretty vague intro on reflection. I am 53, and have been riding/racing enduro for a couple of years; 4 years ago broke my spine in a crash and have existing knee injuries with replacements from years of sports. I am curretly on a 150/150 Focus Jam and find its not enough, and havea hard time keeping up to my son on a Norc Range in the rough stuff.
Currently pondering the Focus Jam SL and the Trek Slash+... I need a big battery for my 100kg frame, and the Trek eXe's many o the people I ride with have I do not think wil cut it at 360wh.
Thanks everyone

 

[Astro66]

Amflow ........ Then watch your kid eat your dust.

 

[Uphill Battle]

Amflow ........ Then watch your kid eat your dust.

Yeah 15 yr olds that weigh 55kgs are no fun to chase... 120nm would be nice!

 

[steve_sordy]

@Uphill Battle Read the various threads on the Amflow before making a decision.

Pretty much any full power emtb with 150-160 suspension and a battery of at least 625 w-hrs will do the job. The go-to torque is now 85 Nm as a minimum. In my riding kit, with backpack, at 94kg, I on the way to 100kg. If you go for a bigger battery, then the bike weight goes up, as does the centre of mass.

As for the motor, the consensus on here is Bosch/Bosch/Bosch. As far as I can tell, the principal reason appears to be that it can easily be repaired by various companies set up to do so (it is also mainly lacking in faults). The other big contender is Shimano with their EP801 motor. There appears to be a lot of dislike for Shimano motors, principally around the lack of easy repairability. Some companies will not attempt to repair them because Shimano will not sell spares (for example, circuit boards that can easily get damaged). However, I have had two Shimano motors, the e8000 and its completely updated successor the EP8 (the EP801 is version 2 of the EP8). I have had zero problems with either motor. and I started in the depths of winter Jan'19. We are now in the 6th winter for my Shimano motor experience and I still have had zero problems. If you care to look, Shimano motors have many fans, one guy on here regularly does over 20,000 km on each bike, each with one Shimano motor!

The other main contender is Brose, limited to the Specialized Levo. They have a vocal fan club, mostly it seems to me to be driven by Specialized's policy of rapid no quibble motor replacement during the warranty period. You have riders reporting in glowing terms that they are on their 4th, 5th, even 6th motor! Christ! With a motor that fragile, I wouldn't dare set off anywhere more than a good walk from the car. I'd always be wondering if today is the day for another failure!

It is difficult to buy a bad bike these days, but you may not like the motor because they do have different characteristics. The Shimano motor offers the most "like me on a really good day" ride experience (which I love!) Bosch seems to deliver a fraction more torque at lower speeds, so it's a bit better on that steep climb where you are almost at the top and your legs have gone. I don't like the Yamaha motor as, except in Auto mode, it delivers an on/off delivery of torque. For me it manifests in a jerky ride around tight uphill corners, in all modes except auto.

The key thing is to test ride as many as you can. Try to distinguish between what the bike feels like and what the motor is delivering. But remember you are buying a bike not a motor!

I'm sure others will chip in with their views.

PS: I know that the Brisbane area is dry except when its wet, and then nobody goes out in case they get swept away and drowned. So maybe wet weather does not concern you with respect to the motor and its accompanying electrics. But I urge you to respect then fact that water and electrical components do not make good companions. I have had zero problems with my Shimano motors, but I don't ride through water deeper than my BB. Also, I don't use a pressure washer, not even a hose! However, I do drive through rainstorms with my bike on the back of my car on my tow bar rack.

 

[Astro66]

As for the motor, the consensus on here is Bosch/Bosch/Bosch. As far as I can tell, the principal reason appears to be that it can easily be repaired by various companies set up to do so

Maybe in Europe. But if you want a motor that you can buy a band new one for £500, then the Shimano EP801 is the one to buy in Australia. Better still the EP6 can be bought for £450.

You are not going to get a motor repaired for much less.

Shimano parts are sold by so many retailers in Australia, that the competition keeps them discounted. Bosch ..... not so much.

Just in Sydney, I can buy the EP801 and EP600 from 3 bike parts retailers, that I know of. Then you also have many LBSs, but they tend to be more expensive.

 

[steve_sordy]

Maybe in Europe. But if you want a motor that you can buy a band new one for £500, then the Shimano EP801 is the one to buy in Australia. Better still the EP6 can be bought for £450.

You are not going to get a motor repaired for much less.

Shimano parts are sold by so many retailers in Australia, that the competition keeps them discounted. Bosch ..... not so much.

Just in Sydney, I can buy the EP801 and EP600 from 3 bike parts retailers, that I know of. Then you also have many LBSs, but they tend to be more expensive.

I love that! I wish it was like that in the UK. I have never had to buy a replacement Shimano motor, but I have read that it can be expensive and time consuming over here. My personal experience of Shimano motors has been excellent. No problems and I love the power delivery as it always feels like me on a really good day! So I would have no problem buying a bike with a Shimano motor in Australia.

 

[Astro66]

I love that! I wish it was like that in the UK. I have never had to buy a replacement Shimano motor, but I have read that it can be expensive and time consuming over here. My personal experience of Shimano motors has been excellent. No problems and I love the power delivery as it always feels like me on a really good day! So I would have no problem buying a bike with a Shimano motor in Australia.

Yep. 1000km on my EP600 and it's been really solid. But I guess we don't get as much wet here.

As much as I want the Amflow. I'll probably stick with my Merida for a couple of years, and just upgrade the motor to the EP801.

This will give DJI some time to mature as a EMTB motor supplier. But if my Merida wasn't so new. I would take a punt on the Amflow right now.

 

[Uphill Battle]

Yep. 1000km on my EP600 and it's been really solid. But I guess we don't get as much wet here.

As much as I want the Amflow. I'll probably stick with my Merida for a couple of years, and just upgrade the motor to the EP801.

This will give DJI some time to mature as a EMTB motor supplier. But if my Merida wasn't so new. I would take a punt on the Amflow right now.

What are the thoughts on the new e160 SL by Merida? Looks the goods, or is the Slash+ the better all rounder with the TQ??

 

[Astro66]

What are the thoughts on the new e160 SL by Merida? Looks the goods, or is the Slash+ the better all rounder with the TQ??

I'm just not a fan of the light powered, light batteried, EMTBs. I want the most amount of power, because I just want to climb as fast as possible. Then bomb downhill. It also means I'm climbing routes that I couldn't get up with a lower powered motor.

Having the extra momentum provided by the additional torque and power, just allows you to get over obstacles that would have forced you to put a foot down.

The only reason I want a lighter bike, is really because it's easier to lift over, or onto things, when you are not riding it. Otherwise I really don't notice the weight of my full powered EMTB.

But it's all personal. It's how you use the bike. So I'm the wrong person to ask about a SL EMTB.