Hi folks, I’m new to the forum but a old hand to ebikes.

[Gringo]

I brought my first ebike in 08 and I’m now on my 3rd, a Cube Acid one.
I also have a Crossfuse for road rides and a couple of analog bikes for shorter flatter rides.
the Cube is my favourite to ride but i gave it a bit too much abuse in the winter mud And after 5500 miles I needed to put a new main bearing in (chainring side) That was about 200 miles ago.
Doom and gloom ! Today on the way home after a 40 mile ride, I took a spill on some slimy concrete, Ive got some grazing but the motor came out worse, something inside broke, if I try to use any assist there’s a grunching sound and it cuts out immediately (I only tried it twice as I have a lot of mechanical empathy). The bike pedals fine in analog mode (motor off) and it go me home ok but the pedals don’t turn backwards ?
I’ve cleaned the bike and put it to one side to inspect later this week when my injuries aren’t so sore ;(
when I strip the motor, I’m expecting to find something seriously broken and thinking I’ll need to replace it.

 

[Chris ledger]

Maybe the @Bearing Man can help

 

[Bearing Man]

Although rare, there are several things that can fail following a heavy impact. One thing is for sure, we will have the parts if you find whats broken and here if you need us to take a look.

 

[Gringo]

Thanks guys, i brought a bearing from yourselves not so long ago, I’ll have the motor open in the next couple of days for a better idea of what I need.
Fixing it is the best option but worse case, I could always get a second hand motor.
cheers Carl

 

[Bearing Man]

Don't worry, if it's mechanical its fixable.

 

[Gringo]

So I had time to pull the motor apart this afternoon.
The most obvious damage was the broken teeth on the nylon gear and the lost teeth were what was stopping the cranks from turning backwards. I still have to pull the core of the motor out in order to check it hasn’t been bent, (is there any trick to removing it ? I’m assuming it’s just the strength of the magnets thats holding it back)
if the motor spindle is still good, it should be a straight forward repair, just a new gear and I’ll replace the other bearings that I didn’t bother with last time (only 200 miles ago)

 

[Bearing Man]

Motor spindle will be fine, these will normally snap before they bend, and yes, it is just magnetism holding it in there, but be carful of the little plates that hold the magnets if you decide to pull it out. In fact you will have to pull it out because you have removed the bearing from the top and you will need to support the armature to press a new bearing back on.
You may have done it this way, but for others reading: If you want to remove the gear without removing the armature bearing, just remove the left hand outer crankshaft circlip and pull the crankshaft out from the right, then you can remove the gear. Leaving the armature bearing on makes it much easier to remove the armature too.
Is your motor an Active Line Plus? They normally put a steel gear in the Gen 3 Performance Lines, much stronger. Contact me if you can't find a gear anywhere

 

[Gringo]

The parts needed to fix my motor came on Monday (thanks to Peter the bearing-man) I got it back together last night and it powered up ok so I was quite excited to get out today for a test ride. Unfortunately the excitement didn’t last long as I got a 510 error code after only a few hundred yards and the motor cut out. I road on for about a mile, I did try powering down and back on again but had the same problem after a short distance.

Ive had to walk away from it as I’m a little frustrated right now, I’ll probably have the motor out tomorrow, I don’t think there will be anything visible but it’s worth a look.

Has anyone got any views/experience of buying from German sellers on eBay, I’m seeing new or very low mile ALP motors for £220 + post

 

[Bearing Man]

The parts needed to fix my motor came on Monday (thanks to Peter the bearing-man) I got it back together last night and it powered up ok so I was quite excited to get out today for a test ride. Unfortunately the excitement didn’t last long as I got a 510 error code after only a few hundred yards and the motor cut out. I road on for about a mile, I did try powering down and back on again but had the same problem after a short distance.

Ive had to walk away from it as I’m a little frustrated right now, I’ll probably have the motor out tomorrow, I don’t think there will be anything visible but it’s worth a look.

Has anyone got any views/experience of buying from German sellers on eBay, I’m seeing new or very low mile ALP motors for £220 + post

Just set your torque sensor to the correct angle and you should be OK! If anyone does buy a Bosch Gen 2 from Germany, be warned most will have a part number that ends 063 these are road bike Performance Line motors with 63Nm. If you want a CX 75Nm part number must end 037. Anyway, give me a shout and I will run through setting your torque sensor correctly.

 

[Gringo]

After I had a good chat with Peter (the bearing man) I decided to have another look inside the motor and at the torque sensor in particular, I couldn’t see any signs of damage to it or it’s connectors and there’s no way to adjust the sensor on my gen 3 motor. Looking over the circuit board with a magnifying glass, I couldn’t see any signs of water damage there either, I can only think the impact that took the teeth off the gear did more damage than I thought.
I think I’ll cut my losses on this one and just replace the whole motor.
Thanks for your comments/help