Hi All. First post on this forum

[Shaun Joslin]

I have just purchased my first EMTB (Norco Sight VLT2) from Evans Cycles (Thurrock, Essex). The bike was used. Apparently had new electronics installed under warranty after the original owner returned the bike. I have been out on the bike twice and I am not sure if the battery is lasting as long as it should.
My riding weight is 95kg, tyres are DHF (23psi) DHR (25psi) I completed 25miles and only 1000ft elevation and the battery had used 3x of the 5x bars when using trail mode only. I was riding muddy footpath/woodland/field trails and stoney tracks. If i calculate this as if i had used 5bars of battery, it works out to approx 42 miles and 1709ft elevation, does this sound normal? I would have thought from a 630wh battery on a shimano e8000 it would have been nearer 42 miles with double that elevation before draining a battery. Any thoughts?

 

[Simoto123]

Hi, not sure about the battery but welcome to the forum

 

[Zimmerframe]

It's really difficult to work out what you should get in terms of range. Especially if you compare it to what manufacturers suggest (which is riding downhill behind a truck presumably) and even to other riders. If you go steady on tarmac or fire roads, you can get quite reasonable range. If there's lots of altitude changes and you push hard, you'll use more power and have a lower range.

Everyone rides differently, the terrain is different, speeds are different.

Trail mode on the Shimano is normally pretty good at balancing range and power. It's dynamic, so it's constantly adjusting (even if you go and change the settings).

I found DHR/DHF's to be quite draggy, this was exponential with speed. E-wilds are considerably less draggy and quieter and for me, more predictable.

The other problem you've got is using the "bars" .. 3 bars left means you have between 40% and 60%, so if you compare to others, they might say they did 40 miles and 3 bars left, but if they'd gone another 20 meters it might have dropped to 2 bars. Ideally install stunlocker or similar on your phone and you can get a battery % so you know where you're really at. (the cheap version will let you easily adjust the assistance, I found the default eco assistance too high which didn't help with range).... Just thinking, stunlocker only gives accurate battery information on shimano batteries, so not sure it will work with the norco battery ?

You might also want to install e-tube and check your firmware is uptodate, trail mode is normally improved with each update.

My Shimano 500w battery wasn't very linear in range to battery left. More like an inverted pyramid. The first 20% gives you 20km's. the next 20% gives you 15km's the next 20% gives you 10 km's and so on. The Norco battery might be more linear.

 

[Shaun Joslin]

It's really difficult to work out what you should get in terms of range. Especially if you compare it to what manufacturers suggest (which is riding downhill behind a truck presumably) and even to other riders. If you go steady on tarmac or fire roads, you can get quite reasonable range. If there's lots of altitude changes and you push hard, you'll use more power and have a lower range.

Everyone rides differently, the terrain is different, speeds are different.

Trail mode on the Shimano is normally pretty good at balancing range and power. It's dynamic, so it's constantly adjusting (even if you go and change the settings).

I found DHR/DHF's to be quite draggy, this was exponential with speed. E-wilds are considerably less draggy and quieter and for me, more predictable.

The other problem you've got is using the "bars" .. 3 bars left means you have between 40% and 60%, so if you compare to others, they might say they did 40 miles and 3 bars left, but if they'd gone another 20 meters it might have dropped to 2 bars. Ideally install stunlocker or similar on your phone and you can get a battery % so you know where you're really at. (the cheap version will let you easily adjust the assistance, I found the default eco assistance too high which didn't help with range).... Just thinking, stunlocker only gives accurate battery information on shimano batteries, so not sure it will work with the norco battery ?

You might also want to install e-tube and check your firmware is uptodate, trail mode is normally improved with each update.

My Shimano 500w battery wasn't very linear in range to battery left. More like an inverted pyramid. The first 20% gives you 20km's. the next 20% gives you 15km's the next 20% gives you 10 km's and so on. The Norco battery might be more linear.

Thanks Zimmerframe, I will look into the Stunlocker App. Makes sence regarding the battery bars/%, (to many variables). All the firmware is upto date .
Maybe i will give the Michelin tyres a go. I think i could also try adjusting the assistance settings on etube project see if that helps.
Maybe i am being a little paranoid as this being my first EMTB and also with the shop saying the electronics had been replaced, i think maybe I am expecting problems when potentially there may not be any.
I will update at a later date
Thanks for the reply (appreciate it)

 

[Zimmerframe]

It's completely normal with any EMTB to be a bit paranoid ... is that a new noise ? did it surge like that before ? is it slower than normal ?

For some piece of mind you probably want to familiarise yourself with the "electronics" ...

Now quite sure what they would have changed with that explanation, but so you know what there is and what to look at if you do get issues.

There's the wheel sensor, which picks up the magnet moving round on the back wheel. Sometimes the magnet isn't straight on the spoke, sometimes it slides down (or up) and sometimes it's not aligned perfectly when new - it should line up with where the round bit of the sensor joins the long flat bit.

The battery, that's in the frame on yours, so not much to adjust or check.

The display (or not). Normally the e8000 display (colour) the e7000 display (B&W) or the little junction box I've forgotten the name of which enables you to do away with the display if you prefer the simple layout. The display also acts a network hub for devices - like the mode change switch or a di2 switch if you have that. It's also where you/a shop would connect it to a PC to check things. Sometimes the plugs aren't fully seated in the back properly, they can need a firm "pop".

The mode switch. Either e8000 (flappy paddles) e7000 (two buttons) e6000 (up/down buttons and a mode button to emulate the display button). These are interchangeable. The e8000 feels funky at first, but is more prone to breakage/wear and limits your dropper post lever mounting options. For me, I prefered the e7000 one after breaking the e8000 one.

And finally .. the motor ..

With the Shimano, pretty much all of the "electronics" are in there. If something goes wrong, it's basically a motor swap. On the left side, there's a cover held on with three (I think phillips no.1 ) screws. This lets you into where the cables mount. It's a good idea to check in here once in a while for mud/moisture as it could lead to other problems down the line.

The big cable is the battery connection. The two small screws are for mounting lights. The three plugs are the wheel sensor, the cable upto the display/hub and the final one is normally blanked, but is where you'd mount a di2 derailleur.

Most importantly .. ride it and enjoy it !

 

[Shaun Joslin]

It's completely normal with any EMTB to be a bit paranoid ... is that a new noise ? did it surge like that before ? is it slower than normal ?

For some piece of mind you probably want to familiarise yourself with the "electronics" ...

Now quite sure what they would have changed with that explanation, but so you know what there is and what to look at if you do get issues.

There's the wheel sensor, which picks up the magnet moving round on the back wheel. Sometimes the magnet isn't straight on the spoke, sometimes it slides down (or up) and sometimes it's not aligned perfectly when new - it should line up with where the round bit of the sensor joins the long flat bit.

The battery, that's in the frame on yours, so not much to adjust or check.

The display (or not). Normally the e8000 display (colour) the e7000 display (B&W) or the little junction box I've forgotten the name of which enables you to do away with the display if you prefer the simple layout. The display also acts a network hub for devices - like the mode change switch or a di2 switch if you have that. It's also where you/a shop would connect it to a PC to check things. Sometimes the plugs aren't fully seated in the back properly, they can need a firm "pop".

The mode switch. Either e8000 (flappy paddles) e7000 (two buttons) e6000 (up/down buttons and a mode button to emulate the display button). These are interchangeable. The e8000 feels funky at first, but is more prone to breakage/wear and limits your dropper post lever mounting options. For me, I prefered the e7000 one after breaking the e8000 one.

And finally .. the motor ..

With the Shimano, pretty much all of the "electronics" are in there. If something goes wrong, it's basically a motor swap. On the left side, there's a cover held on with three (I think phillips no.1 ) screws. This lets you into where the cables mount. It's a good idea to check in here once in a while for mud/moisture as it could lead to other problems down the line.

View attachment 26484
The big cable is the battery connection. The two small screws are for mounting lights. The three plugs are the wheel sensor, the cable upto the display/hub and the final one is normally blanked, but is where you'd mount a di2 derailleur.

Most importantly .. ride it and enjoy it !

Thanks again Zimmerframe, usefull information ?, good to know about checking behind the motor cover. I have been making sure the charge port is dry (with hair dryer) after every ride/wash and also using water proof grease on the rubber charge port cover to help keep moisture out. So glad I joined this forum ??

 

[Simoto123]

I usually just let plug and socket dry naturally. Then brush away dry mud later. It may be possible to force moisture in somewhere with the dryer. Surprising how robust the connection is. All the water gushing round it while riding, hardly seems worth the forced air and humidity created. Just a thought.

 

[Shaun Joslin]

I usually just let plug and socket dry naturally. Then brush away dry mud later. It may be possible to force moisture in somewhere with the dryer. Surprising how robust the connection is. All the water gushing round it while riding, hardly seems worth the forced air and humidity created. Just a thought.

Very true ?

 

[Gary]

My riding weight is 95kg, tyres are DHF (23psi) DHR (25psi) I completed 25miles and only 1000ft elevation and the battery had used 3x of the 5x bars when using trail mode only.

At your weight and at those tyre pressures (especially if they are softer compounds) you'd be unlikely to ever get more than 1500m of climbing on one battery.
Been riding E8000 bikes for a couple of years now and the most I ever get from one 504wh battery is about 1400m of climbing.
I'm lighter than you and run harder pressures and faster rolling tyres.

thing is though. I'd get around the same amount of climbing from that battery whether it was spread over 10 miles or 40.
Climbing drains the battery most.
so if you want to ride 42miles choose a flatter route.

 

[Shaun Joslin]

At your weight and at those tyre pressures (especially if they are softer compounds) you'd be unlikely to ever get more than 1500m of climbing on one battery.
Been riding E8000 bikes for a couple of years now and the most I ever get from one 504wh battery is about 1400m of climbing.
I'm lighter than you and run harder pressures and faster rolling tyres.

thing is though. I'd get around the same amount of climbing from that battery whether it was spread over 10 miles or 40.
Climbing drains the battery most.
so if you want to ride 42miles choose a flatter route.

Thanks Gary, just order some Michelin e-wild. I used to run 28 front 30 rear on Maxxis HR2 on my Whyte S150 but Norco recommended the pressures on their setup guide. Looks like I have got a lot of experimenting to do, oh and that means more riding ?

 

[R120]

I believe the Norco has a non Shimano battery that is a higher capacity?

 

[Shaun Joslin]

I believe the Norco has a non Shimano battery that is a higher capacity?

Thats correct, its a 630wh (by Simplon apparently) thats why I was hoping it would give me a bit more elevation than currently predicted (see my original mesg for distance and elevation) I need to get down to Peaselake in Surrey to give it a good test to see what elevation I can get out of it as it quite flat where I live and therefore difficult to see what it will do.