Have any of you Rise owners considered moving from the standard 140/150 travel to 160/160?

[siciliano]

So I received my Rise 1.5 months ago and ridden it 3x so far and noticed a few people on the FB groups have went up in both fork and shock travel. I can do this relatively cheap by upgrading the fox 36 air spring and then buying a 216x63 DPX2. I was curious everyone’s thoughts about what I’d be sacrificing and if it’s worth it. When using 30% sag on the shock I’ve only used 75% travel and using 27-28% sag in the fork I use 85% travel. Also, I weigh around 145lbs without backpack, etc.....

 

[urastus]

Just my view, of course . I've never been into upgrading anything big on bikes; buy what you want in the first place. More so with emtb; the initial cost price is high enough. I have upgraded to a bigger rotor and adapter, and a cheap different size chain ring. The rest I try to get as much as I can out of it all, maximising everything as much as I can with maintenance and tuning.

You've only ridden it 3x and haven't used all the suspension - why are you considering this? If you're asking, it seems that you don't know why. It seems that you are being driven by what other people are doing, without an actual need.

I also bought a tannus insert for the rear. My few upgrades have evolved out of need to suit my purposes and where I ride.

Re your shock travel and fork travel; see if you have any tokens installed. If you do take them out. Run at 30% (without tokens) and you'll be more likely to use all your travel occasionally which is ideal. You'll be maximising the travel you have and it will be more linear.

 

[siciliano]

Just my view, of course . I've never been into upgrading anything big on bikes; buy what you want in the first place. More so with emtb; the initial cost price is high enough. I have upgraded to a bigger rotor and adapter, and a cheap different size chain ring. The rest I try to get as much as I can out of it all, maximising everything as much as I can with maintenance and tuning.

You've only ridden it 3x and haven't used all the suspension - why are you considering this? If you're asking, it seems that you don't know why. It seems that you are being driven by what other people are doing, without an actual need.

I also bought a tannus insert for the rear. My few upgrades have evolved out of need to suit my purposes and where I ride.

Re your shock travel and fork travel; see if you have any tokens installed. If you do take them out. Run at 30% (without tokens) and you'll be more likely to use all your travel occasionally which is ideal. You'll be maximising the travel you have and it will be more linear.

does the DPX2 come with a spacer already inside (not the grey one, I have that in a bag)? If so can it be removed?

 

[siciliano]

Turns out there was a purple 0.2” spacer in the shock as I removed it and now will ride later with no spacers to see how it feels.

 

[Schnipps]

Can someone explain spacers inside shocks? What do they do and how do you remove them?

 

[Mcharza]

Can someone explain spacers inside shocks? What do they do and how do you remove them?

There's a lot of videos on Youtube. Here's one

 

[urastus]

does the DPX2 come with a spacer already inside (not the grey one, I have that in a bag)? If so can it be removed?

if you enter your serial # etc at this site it will tell you exactly what you have. Sorry I didn't get to answer you sooner. I think it will also work for your fork too though, if it is also fox.

Did you reset the sag - you might need a bit more pressure without the token in.

 

[urastus]

Can someone explain spacers inside shocks? What do they do and how do you remove them?

Do you have an old school bicycle pump that you can put your finger or thumb over the hole? As you compress the pump with the hole blocked, it gets harder as the pressure inside the pump builds. That's essentially your air shock. You're compressing a certain, contained volume of air into a smaller area. If you put a spacer inside a shock, all you're doing is taking up some of that space inside the shock. Now you have an even smaller space within your shock (or fork) to compress that air into.

I'm guessing siciliano isn't doing jumps or drops so he is light on suspension. He removed his spacer; now his shock has more space in it so the air inside won't compress as much. It will be softer and more linear as it compresses. If he starts getting into jumps and drops, he will probably find that he's bottoming out his suspension every time he jumps or drops. Ideally you try to stay around 30% sag (or as low as 20%), then add or remove spacers accordingly.

If you remove spacers, then you'll need to add more pressure to stay at 30% sag.If you add spacers, you'll need to use a bit less pressure for 30% sag.

 

[DanMcDan]

Pretty sure putting a 216x63 shock on is a bad idea, adding 6mm to the i2i will really screw up the geo. If you do want to long shock it the best thing to look for is a 2016-2018 trek slash rear shock. That is 210x60mm so won’t mess with the i2i but give 154mm rear travel.

 

[RickBullotta]

Pretty sure putting a 216x63 shock on is a bad idea, adding 6mm to the i2i will really screw up the geo. If you do want to long shock it the best thing to look for is a 2016-2018 trek slash rear shock. That is 210x60mm so won’t mess with the i2i but give 154mm rear travel.

Given the extra travel, it could be setup on the higher end of sag without too much impact on geo for a very planted feeling. Difference between 20% and 30% is, coincidentally, 6mm. Never liked that Monarch that the Trek has on it.

 

[DanMcDan]

Yeah it wasn’t that a good a shock on the trek (hence I had it laying around)

 

[BobR]

The approach I have seen is to make it a mullet to bring the numbers back closer to alignment with intended geo... not saying it is right or wrong as I do not know enough to do that

 

[siciliano]

The approach I have seen is to make it a mullet to bring the numbers back closer to alignment with intended geo... not saying it is right or wrong as I do not know enough to do that

Yea but I don’t wanna mullet it to do this...offset bushings on each end of the rear shock can bring the BB down around 5-6mm though

 

[DanMcDan]

Yea but I don’t wanna mullet it to do this...offset bushings on each end of the rear shock can bring the BB down around 5-6mm though

The only issue is that offset bushings in the yoke can bring the shaft body too close to the yoke edge. Would be interested to see how close anyone has managed to get it to fit.

 

[siciliano]

The only issue is that offset bushings in the yoke can bring the shaft body too close to the yoke edge. Would be interested to see how close anyone has managed to get it to fit.

2 people on the FB rise groups are running 216x63 shocks, one with DHX2 and one with x2

 

[carlbiker]

Voids warranty If that’s an issue, lbs told me it’s not designed for 160mm