Levo SL Gen 1 Got a Turbo Levo SL frame only today, a few questions for knowledgeable bike techs

[Mtbvkk]

I got the Turbo levo comp last year ( some photos on this forum ). After a year of riding, while I love the bike, I feel like it isn't quite for me mainly because of body health changes and my usage patterns. I mostly ride in eco mode and rarely used the bike in full power. But, more importantly, I was diagnosed with a bone impingement on the spine causing numbness and pain in the neck area that kept me from riding a bit this last year. Lifting the Turbo Levo into my truck is awful with such a problem and the problem is something I've to keep at bay and live with the rest of my life barring surgery ( which I don't want to do ). In addition a former knee injury has surfaced and I find the heaviness of the Levo to be a detriment to easing into riding and getting my strength back. I had no issues prior to last year so last year was a doozy in a bad way.

Anyways, I've been thinking for a while about getting the SL and selling my levo. I ride a small frame which are the toughest to find. My bike shop owner tells me that there are no bikes to be found and his supply has been reduced to nothing and doesn't expect anything through summer and probably beyond. So to my surprise I found a small S-works SL frame selling for $6500 ( 1.5k off MSRP ) at a store 90 miles north of me and it was their last one. So I bought it since they have a 30 day return if not used and I can still ponder if I'm making the right decision before taking the final plunge. The price is really daunting, but some calculations tell me that an additional 2500-3000 can get me a built bike. so For roughly 9500 it would be 1500 more than the comp carbon but I'd have components I want and the range extender which it comes with so the value is comparable. I'm trying to do enough research before I decide whether I should pick it up or not.

Anyways, I've never bought a frame before so getting stuff installed is a bit daunting. I looked at YouTube videos and installing the headset, fork, handle bars etc seem quite doable. Specialized website says the headset is FSA integrated and not sure what that is yet but have seen some hints that it does't require a FSA press tool. The tools to get the headset and fork cut and installed are quite cheap so I can do that quite easily.

I already have handlebars and stems that I can move over from my levo and restore that to factory. The geometry of the Levo and SL seems to be very close on paper.

I'm not sure if the bike ships with the cranks not installed. I've removed/installed cranks on my earlier bikes so not a stranger to this but wondering if there's anything special on the SL and whether I need tools other than an Allen wrench. I'm assuming I don't have to install anything akin to a bottom bracket since the motor is housed behind the cranks so it should be a different mechanism.

I'm thinking of having my LBS install brakes, the drive train, and dropper post. With these routing cables through the frame seems daunting. Even if I could get stuff routed, the brakes are beyond me at the moment. I could probably figure out the drive train and dropper post.

The shop I purchased from has custom builds with a discount but many of their components are not available immediately and some not until July or I may have gone that route for ease.

As far as components go. I'm thinking:

• Fox 36 fit fork
• Cheap aluminum wheels I can find (like used Rovals)
• PNW Loam dropper with their remote
• Either rockshox or PNW dropper - the PNW is much cheaper, but I like the kashima finish since it matches the frame and fork.
• SRAM Code RSC Brakes
• Either Eagle NX or the new 52 tooth eagle with X01 for drivetrain

Anyways, hoping to hear from people if there are any gotchas or if I'm thinking through this ok.

 

[R120]

I would say installing the headset and the crown race on the fork is the easiest thing to screw up if you dont have the right tools - not difficult items to do, but if I am building up a frame I usually get a shop to do that, as the damage you can do to the bike if you screw it up is permanent.

All you really need is a decent set of tools, a torque wrench, and the correct bleed tools for the brakes, and the correct grease/lubes as required. - an internal cable routing kit might be useful too. There might be some specialist tool for the chainring/cranks on the SL but not sure as I am not familiar with the motor.

 

[j1e]

Do you have any bike mechanic friends? Any competent bike shops in area? While not very difficult there is a lot to know and it all needs to be perfect. Lots of good build videos on YouTube. Beyond that post any questions you have - lots of folks here with custom builds.

Your list looks good except for brakes. I have Hope and Magura MT5 (w/ MT7 pads) on my other bikes - vastly better than the Sram that came on my SL Comp. I'll have wheels, brakes and other parts for sale as I build up my SL Comp. Check eBay - lot's folks doing same already.

While I wouldn't wish the brakes on anyone the wheels are at least compliant/comfortable. Hub durability would concern me, but they are inexpensive. Sure wish aluminum frame-only would have been an option for my own (free ride/bike park) build.

 

[Mtbvkk]

I would say installing the headset and the crown race on the fork is the easiest thing to screw up if you dont have the right tools - not difficult items to do, but if I am building up a frame I usually get a shop to do that, as the damage you can do to the bike if you screw it up is permanent.

All you really need is a decent set of tools, a torque wrench, and the correct bleed tools for the brakes, and the correct grease/lubes as required. - an internal cable routing kit might be useful too. There might be some specialist tool for the chainring/cranks on the SL but not sure as I am not familiar with the motor.

Thanks, I hadn’t considered that, as obvious as it might seem. Hmm food for thought.

 

[Mtbvkk]

Do you have any bike mechanic friends? Any competent bike shops in area? While not very difficult there is a lot to know and it all needs to be perfect. Lots of good build videos on YouTube. Beyond that post any questions you have - lots of folks here with custom builds.

Your list looks good except for brakes. I have Hope and Magura MT5 (w/ MT7 pads) on my other bikes - vastly better than the Sram that came on my SL Comp. I'll have wheels, brakes and other parts for sale as I build up my SL Comp. Check eBay - lot's folks doing same already.

While I wouldn't wish the brakes on anyone the wheels are at least compliant/comfortable. Hub durability would concern me, but they are inexpensive. Sure wish aluminum frame-only would have been an option for my own (free ride/bike park) build.

No friends into biking even, but yes there is a bike shop I’ve done a lot of business with and Ive left a message for the owner and planning to get his advice too. in the meantime I’m trying to do my own research to find the best course to save money. It’s quite silly at some level, but I had never planned on such an expensive bike, and since I can’t ride at the moment with an injury, am thinking I can build this out over time finding used things etc to save money. The bike shop would sell me new things.

ill check out the brakes You mentioned, thanks for the rec.

 

[j1e]

If you have time and are willing to research you should be golden. All the info you need is online.

You can save money on parts by purchasing from online shops in country of origin (so UK for Hope, Germany for Magura, etc.). Shipping may take a couple of weeks, but if you have the time prices are far better than elsewhere...

 

[08mojo]

The headset comes with the frame and should already be installed. The cranks also come with the frame and should be installed. If not, it should just be an Allen wrench for the install.

For the headset crown race, specialized/fsa uses a split race--which I had not seen before. The good news: no special tools are required. The crown race slides on and off easily.

I've found the best way to cut a steerer tube is to use a large pipe cutter. The cut will be perfectly straight and all you need to do is deburr/take a file to smooth out the sharp edges left from the cut.

To install the star nut in the steerer, use a 1/2" pvc pipe to drive the star nut. Super easy and it will ensure the nut is driven in straight.

The rear brake install will require the hose to be disconnected in order to run it through the frame. So, a full brake bleed is required.

Dropper installation and cable routing is a bit tricky on these bikes. Not terribly difficult, but more frustrating than expected.

I'd let the LBS install the drivetrain, brakes and dropper if you're having any doubts. It's not hard, but it may be worth the $$ to build a better relationship with the shop should you need warranty assistance down the road.

I highly recommend the Grip 2 damper over FIT.

I also highly recommend GX over NX. NX uses the old Shimano splined freehub. The sram XD driver eliminates many issues that come with a splined freehub (cassette digging into the splined).

If you really want to save some money: check out this and other forums for used parts. Really good deals to be had from fellow riders. Pink bike has a great classified section that has worked well for me over the years.

Enjoy the bike!! Glad the shop honored the frame pricing before the recent increase.

 

[Mtbvkk]

The headset comes with the frame and should already be installed. The cranks also come with the frame and should be installed. If not, it should just be an Allen wrench for the install.

For the headset crown race, specialized/fsa uses a split race--which I had not seen before. The good news: no special tools are required. The crown race slides on and off easily.

I've found the best way to cut a steerer tube is to use a large pipe cutter. The cut will be perfectly straight and all you need to do is deburr/take a file to smooth out the sharp edges left from the cut.

To install the star nut in the steerer, use a 1/2" pvc pipe to drive the star nut. Super easy and it will ensure the nut is driven in straight.

The rear brake install will require the hose to be disconnected in order to run it through the frame. So, a full brake bleed is required.

Dropper installation and cable routing is a bit tricky on these bikes. Not terribly difficult, but more frustrating than expected.

I'd let the LBS install the drivetrain, brakes and dropper if you're having any doubts. It's not hard, but it may be worth the $$ to build a better relationship with the shop should you need warranty assistance down the road.

I highly recommend the Grip 2 damper over FIT.

I also highly recommend GX over NX. NX uses the old Shimano splined freehub. The sram XD driver eliminates many issues that come with a splined freehub (cassette digging into the splined).

If you really want to save some money: check out this and other forums for used parts. Really good deals to be had from fellow riders. Pink bike has a great classified section that has worked well for me over the years.

Enjoy the bike!! Glad the shop honored the frame pricing before the recent increase.

This is great info. Thanks!

Good to know about the NX, wasn’t aware of that. I’m also thinking the new 52 tooth eagle is good to have as insurance if battery runs out even if the large 52 teeth aren’t used much under assistance.

Was the price increased by 1500$? Specialized shows the price as 8000$ and I paid 6500$.

I already have a good relationship with my local shop from whom I’ve bought 3 bikes before ( Levo, Fuse, Tarmac ) and know the owner. But they don’t have any stock of SLs. So I’m definitely going involve him in my decision making but want to balance my own sourcing/install with what they do.

WRT fit vs grip, this video made me feel I’m more of a fit kind of guy.

 

[08mojo]

This is great info. Thanks!

Good to know about the NX, wasn’t aware of that. I’m also thinking the new 52 tooth eagle is good to have as insurance if battery runs out even if the large 52 teeth aren’t used much under assistance.

Was the price increased by 1500$? Specialized shows the price as 8000$ and I paid 6500$.

I already have a good relationship with my local shop from whom I’ve bought 3 bikes before ( Levo, Fuse, Tarmac ) and know the owner. So I’m definitely going involve him in my decision making but want to balance my own sourcing/install with what they do.

WRT fit vs grip, this video made me feel I’m more of a fit kind of guy.

Before Feb 1, the s-works turbo levo frame was $6k and sl was $6500. The prices jumped to what you see now. I was trying really hard to find a s-works frame but had no luck.

FIT damper works well, but trust me on this: grip 2 is soooo good. The small bump compliance between the two is night and day.

 

[Mtbvkk]

Before Feb 1, the s-works turbo levo frame was $6k and sl was $6500. The prices jumped to what you see now. I was trying really hard to find a s-works frame but had no luck.

FIT damper works well, but trust me on this: grip 2 is soooo good. The small bump compliance between the two is night and day.

Thanks - I’m actually still torn between the two. it does seem like the rebound control is unmatched on the grip. But it’s hard to find deals on grip while fit is available pretty cheap From 2020 and earlier.

 

[Mtbvkk]

Before Feb 1, the s-works turbo levo frame was $6k and sl was $6500. The prices jumped to what you see now. I was trying really hard to find a s-works frame but had no luck.

FIT damper works well, but trust me on this: grip 2 is soooo good. The small bump compliance between the two is night and day.

Ps sorry you aren’t able to find a frame. I didn’t realize how lucky I am Both with price and availability. Good luck - hope you find one.

 

[08mojo]

Ps sorry you aren’t able to find a frame. I didn’t realize how lucky I am Both with price and availability. Good luck - hope you find one.

Thanks! You were definitely lucky to find one.

I ended up with a comp, which saved me from pulling parts from my caveman pedal bike--haha!

 

[Mtbvkk]

I just built a bike recoently. Only needed to go to the bike shop for torquing the BB, cutting the head tube and installing the crown race which is a split design on our specialized bikes.


I’d say to check out TRP DHR evo brakes. I have them and they’re awesome and you don’t have the reliability issues the maguras

it’s really too easy to do it on your own. I got a cassette installing kit cheap from China for about 12 euros and a bearing press for another 12 or so off Amazon. You can find everything cheap on Amazon and it’s usually better to buy super cheap from China than pay for a name brand that’s just importing from China.

I wouldn’t let the bike shop do all of it because, for 1 it’s easy, 2 you’ll be able to work on your bike later when something happens and 3 the wait for a bike shopis weeks to months here in Germany.

Thanks for the info! I did notice a bunch of tools on Amazon much cheaper than park tools in some cases.