Going Tubeless

[Blakey]

Hey all,

Seriously thinking about going tubeless after my first puncture this week. I'm riding a Cannondale Moterra 3 2020 which has WTB ST i29 TCS, 32h, tubeless ready rims and Maxxis Minion DHF (F), Minion DHR II (R) / 3C compound, EXO+, tubeless ready tyres.

When I took the tyre off to fix the puncture I noticed there was tape on the inside of the rim, but I didn't stop to consider if this was tubeless-ready tape or not. What am I looking for to confirm it is and that I don't need to buy any sealing tape?

Other than that I think I just need a pair of valves (£15) and some sealant (£15) as quoted by my LBS?

Thanks
Blakey

 

[Tim1023]

Other than that I think I just need a pair of valves (£15) and some sealant (£15) as quoted by my LBS?

Thanks
Blakey

You'll also need a pump that can give the impulse to seat the tyres on the rims.
Depending on how paranoid you are, you should also pack an inner tube in case you get a hole bigger than the sealant can cope with.

Also look here: Going Tubeless lesson learnt. - EMTB Forums

 

[JoeBlow]

Yes. My new bike came with those same tyres and DT Swiss 1900 tubeless ready rims I got my LBS to do it for me. It cost £30 labour and parts. Be warned it can be a messy job and making the tyre seal is very difficult (some might say impossible) with only a basic floor pump.

Al

 

[KeithR]

making the tyre seal is very difficult (some might say impossible) with only a basic floor pump.

Just as a counterpoint based on personal experience, I've been able to seat Maxxis, Specialized and Schwalbe tires with little trouble, using only a budget floor pump: I certainly wouldn't let not owning a compressor or charge tank/air canister put me off trying, especially if I'm converting tires that have already been on a rim for a while with a tube.

I'm sure I'll be beaten eventually, but I don't worry about "only" having a cheap and cheerful floor pump.

(And I did knock one of these up earlier in the year, just in case):

 

[Mikerb]

If the rim has a tape from bead to bead and is not just an easy to remove protection tube for a tube, then the rim is tubeless ready. Yes you will need valves but most new bikes with tubeless ready wheels include those valves together with the bike manual etc so check..you may already have them or your lbs failed to give them to you.
Plenty of threads here on going tubeless but start by making sure both the rims and tyre beads are spotlessly clean.

 

[Blakey]

Great advice - thanks. A friend who is also about to go tubeless has a compressor at work he can borrow. I assume one of them with a presta valve will do the trick?

 

[Mikerb]

Should do. It is often more successful if you remove the valve core which allows a greater volume of air into the tyre. You are only getting the beads of the tyre seated. After that is done a normal pump will inflate the tyre.

 

[stiv674]

I've resisted going tubeless until recently, tried on my road bike initially without any problems, have now done two more sets of mtb tyres, again without any problems.

Got them seated before putting the sealant in with track pump and soapy water, then added sealant afterwards.

As I said in another thread, I'm either ace or lucky

 

[salko]

I can seat the 29x2.6 tire using one 16g Co2 cartridge (you can buy them for 1-2€ each), with valve core removed of course. If you are doing it you should wear protective gloves, otherwise your hand will freeze & stick to the cartridge ...

 

[Mikerb]

Yep...also a good trail side method if you unseat a tl tyre on a ride.

 

[KeithR]

Got them seated before putting the sealant in with track pump and soapy water, then added sealant afterwards.

Yep, that's the trick.

 

[steve_sordy]

Some compressors can deliver a high pressure but the volume is too low to explode the tyre onto the rim. For example, the compressor at the garage on the A1 near me that can inflate car tyres would not come anywhere near inflating my tubeless tyre.

Remove the valve core to allow the air to flow in faster. Once the beads have locked on to the rim, you can add the valves and inflate with your track pump.

 

[Blakey]

Great info all - thanks heaps. I'm trying to source the bits now... Rutland (where I bought the bike) confirmed the rims come pre-taped so I just need sealant and valves as said.

I'm assuming the compressor is a one-off? Just use it to seat the tyres and then the sealant gets applied and topped up with the tyres firmly in place? So no need for me to buy a compression pump, if I can borrow one for the initial install?

 

[steve_sordy]

Great info all - thanks heaps. I'm trying to source the bits now... Rutland (where I bought the bike) confirmed the rims come pre-taped so I just need sealant and valves as said.

I'm assuming the compressor is a one-off? Just use it to seat the tyres and then the sealant gets applied and topped up with the tyres firmly in place? So no need for me to buy a compression pump, if I can borrow one for the initial install?

You will have to borrow the compressor (or tubeless tyre inflator) every time you change tyres. The Airshot tubeless tyre inflator is currently £49 delivered, from Sigma Sports. Bargain!! You will not regret it.

Airshot Tubeless Inflation System | Sigma Sports

Shop the Airshot Tubeless Inflation System online at Sigma Sports. Receive FREE UK delivery on all orders over £60 and easy returns!

www.sigmasports.com

 

[Hamina]

I'm running Maxxis Minions DHR+DHF and Cushcores. Using Lezyne Alloy digitaldrive floorpump and my Rail 5 Alex MD35 35mm rims I've never had any issues getting the tire on bead.

It could be that I've used little soapwater when using cushcores and that migh have solved some problems. OKO Magic milk and since some training rounds no problems whatsoever.

 

[KeithR]

I rather like the look of this:


£45 from Merlin:

Beto CJA-001S Tubeless Air Tank Inflator | Merlin Cycles

Buy your Beto CJA-001S Tubeless Air Tank Inflator at Merlin. Free worldwide delivery available on most items!

www.merlincycles.com

 

[Blakey]

Is there a standard/recommended syringe to get the sealant into the valve?

 

[KennyB]

If you do have problems seating the tyre, try using a tube, unseat one side to remove it, then carrying on. You will have cut escaping air (or CO2, but deflate and replace with air or the tyre will go flat, I understand) by a half.

 

[Blakey]

How necessary is a syringe? Lots of people seem to say just pour some sealant in as it does not clog the valve. Others say to use a syringe as you can measure accurately and it makes less mess.

What's the opinion of the educated masses here?

Thanks
Blakey

 

[KeithR]

How necessary is a syringe? Lots of people seem to say just pour some sealant in as it does not clog the valve. Others say to use a syringe as you can measure accurately and it makes less mess.

What's the opinion of the educated masses here?

Thanks
Blakey

It's not necessary, it's just another way to get sealant in.

It is useful in order to top up the sealant without having to unseat one side of the tire, though - so worth having for that purpose.

There's no one size of syringe that you need: as long as it's big enough to hold a reasonable amount of sealant, you'll be fine. I use a 150mm syringe, not because of any inherent superiority about that size, it's just one that I had in the house.

I attach it to the valve with a length of soft silicon tubing, but that's mainly because the tip of this syringe is actually wider than the valve hole (a downside of a big syringe) so I need the tubing to connect everything together.

It works, but so would a 100mm or 80mm (if that's A Thing) syringe - and they might fit into the valve, too.

Oh - and I use the syringe when I'm putting sealant in without the valve, too: it's a convenient way to measure the dose.

 

[Blakey]

Okay so to try and get this done in the cheapest way possible I'm thinking:

Sealant (Stans, 1L) at £24. Valves (Muc Off 44mm) at £18.

Try and fit the tyres with my track pump. Failing that use friend's compressor. Later, when I have more spare cash, add in the compressor and syringe.

Does that make sense?

 

[KeithR]

Okay so to try and get this done in the cheapest way possible I'm thinking:

Sealant (Stans, 1L) at £24.

[...]

Does that make sense?

This (in my opinion) makes more sense:

Caffelatex Tyre Sealant (1000ml)

Buy your Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex Tyre Sealant (1000ml) - Tyre Spares from Wiggle. Our price £19.99. Free worldwide delivery available.

www.wiggle.co.uk

Check the reviews - it's excellent sealant (my favourite these days) and you're saving a fiver.

 

[steve_sordy]

How necessary is a syringe? Lots of people seem to say just pour some sealant in as it does not clog the valve. Others say to use a syringe as you can measure accurately and it makes less mess.

What's the opinion of the educated masses here?

Thanks
Blakey

I use Continental Revo sealant (ammonia free). It comes in squeezy 250ml container and the cap has a tapered nozzle. I remove the valve core and with the valve at the bottom of the wheel, just squirt in the sealant. Shake well before and shake again after each squeeze. Job done.

Continental Revo Sealant 240ml Tubeless Sealant, Clear | Bikeinn

Get Continental Revo Sealant 240ml Tubeless Sealant - Clear from the Reparation range, part of Wheels and tyres, for just 9.49 €. Discover unbeatable bike deals at Bikeinn with fast and reliable delivery!

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It also comes in bigger bottles, but obviously it can be decanted into smaller ones.

 

[JoeBlow]

I understand that it is advisable to top up sealant every so often? Do you have to use the exact same sealant and how often should this be done?

Al

 

[congerball]

I managed to do mine with a floor pump and some Velcro ?
Put tyre on, then I used some Velcro cut into 3 long bits and tightened at each join bit by bit until the tyre was tight (ish) to the rim, removed valve core,then pumped like foook, the tyre pops and pings as the bead seats on the rim, pumped mine up to 40psi, removed Velcro as tyre inflated, worked fine. Put valve core back in and replace any air lost. Bounced the wheel around and checked bead closely whilst checking for any air leaks ? Deflate the tyre, remove valve core, insert sealant, valve core in and pump back up. Give the wheel a good swirl around for a while. Used Muc Off valves and sealant ?

 

[RickBullotta]

You can also use a bit of sealant as a lubricant on the rim channel to help the tire seat (sounds counterintuitive but it actually works).

 

[steve_sordy]

I understand that it is advisable to top up sealant every so often? Do you have to use the exact same sealant and how often should this be done?

Al

If it is a latex based sealant, you may have to top up very frequently depending upon the climate as it does dry out or "go off". By "go off" I mean sets like stringy glue, or even into a random shaped object that moves around inside the tyre. However you describe it, it becomes useless at moving towards a hole to seal it. Between 3-6 months seems to be the range. But of course every time you get a puncture or burp the tyre, you will lose some sealant, so you may run out before it goes off. Once you run out your first puncture will become a flat. So how do you check what's inside?

I have seen recommendations for a dipstick inserted through the valve (core removed, valve at the bottom). I have never used it and some even jeer at it. I check my tyre pressures before every ride and for the first month or so they hardly need topping up. But as the punctures increase the tyres slowly need more and more air each time I ride. I take this as a cue to either add more sealant or see what's going on. I tend to take a look inside the tyre after about six months or a few months after my first top up. I remove the wheel and pop the bead on one side enough to see what's in there. That provides a useful opening to either add more sealant the quick way or to remove any latex objects rumbling about inside.

When I remove the tyre to swap for something else, I take the opportunity to clean the rim and also the tyre, especially the beads.

For topping up I would use the same sealant for preference, but if it was latex I have used any latex I happened to have without a problem. Non-latex sealants I would never mix with latex ones. I have not tried mixing non-latex sealants so I have no idea whether they mix or not. Why use non-latex? They don't go off, they don't cling like something from Alien to the inside of your tyre, but they still run out. Oh, and in my opinion, they don't seal the carcass quite as quickly as latex-based sealants do. So if you are using tyres that are not tubeless-ready then latex is the way to go.

 

[Another rider]

I've struggled to seat tubeless tyres just using a track pump. So I bought a Schwalbe Booster (basically the same as the Airshot but a bit cheaper). Has always worked first time for me and well worth what it cost. Take the valve cores out and get the tyre seated on the rim then add the sealant through the valve before putting the core back in. No mess and really easy.

 

[taxidriver50005]

God I feel like a tight arse now... Paid 3quid for pair of valves from e Bay ?. Work a treet.. Used fairy washing liquid as lube around the tyre bead and a 8quid track pump on 4 new michelin tyres and they all seated first time no problem, used slime sealent. Was chuffed with myself till I got up in morning and all 4 tyres were flat. ?
Pumped up again went for a ride and now they are holding air fine.... Has taken about 2 weeks to settle down to the point we're I don't need to add air at all but I do keep checking. ?

 

[RickBullotta]

God I feel like a tight arse now... Paid 3quid for pair of valves from e Bay ?. Work a treet.. Used fairy washing liquid as lube around the tyre bead and a 8quid track pump on 4 new michelin tyres and they all seated first time no problem, used slime sealent. Was chuffed with myself till I got up in morning and all 4 tyres were flat. ?
Pumped up again went for a ride and now they are holding air fine.... Has taken about 2 weeks to settle down to the point we're I don't need to add air at all but I do keep checking. ?

The "Stan's Shake" and getting the sealant fully distributed around the tire is a super important step. Riding them likely did the same. Glad it's sorted!

Stan's Shake is at 3:00 in on this video: