Unanswered Fox 36 Grip2 Setup Problems

[WLEBay]

I have a 150mm Fox 36 Factory Grip2 on my Levo that doesn’t compare well to (as in it feels like crap when compared to) the 160mm Fox Factory 36 Fit4 on my Yeti 5.5.

The 10mm travel can’t be the difference. Anyone that is moving from the FIT4 to GRIP2 that can offer suggestions?

Feels like crap specifically meaning beats me up on brake bumps but somehow also feels mushy. Worst of both worlds. What it does do well for sure are big hits. No issues there!


Yes I already watched every video on YouTube on this including the 30min video from The Lost. Still feels like crap and the one consistent point amongst the YouTube videos and Fox is none agree!

 

[HORSPWR]

Does the 150 have a different damper rod than the 160?
Also do you have volume spacers installed, if so maybe need to remove 1 or 2.
My 160 Fox 36 Grip 2 is sensational, small bump compliance and the ability to set it up super plush without blowing through the mid stroke is amazing.

 

[WLEBay]

The bike in question is an S-Works Levo that has a 150MM Grip2. That's the one where small bump compliance is crap. The 160MM feels great but is the FIT4 damper. I am 155lb in case that helps. I believe both forks come stock with 1 volume spacer.

 

[laustin956]

What volume spacer have you got in?

 

[WLEBay]

Don’t know but assume 1 because that is factory spec, right?

 

[118]

Never assume - ass, u, me, et al..

 

[paquo]

i think it comes with more than 1 spacer. I am 185 lbs and i took out 2 or 3 leaving one in place. I used trial and error to get it so i was getting 90% travel each ride while maintaining sag, then dialed out both compression settings to 2 0r 3cicks from open and same with rebound

 

[tedturbine]

Bike Help Center | FOX

Have you you put the code from your forks in to the fox website above and followed the setup. If you haven't already tried then let all the air out the fork then increase by 20 psi , cycle the fork up and down slowly and repeat up to your expected pressure in order to balance the negative pressure.

 

[RickBullotta]

Borrow a ShockWiz and get it dialed that way. Might take 2 rides to get it perfect.

 

[steve_sordy]

I can agree with the advice to consult the Fox website on the correct procedure for inflating the forks. It is no longer a simple job of pump up to 80psi, check sag, adjust and go! Yet I wonder how many bike shop mechanics are aware of this? I sure wasn't, and I had problems with my Rockshox fork until I inflated it as per Rockshox website instructions.

I also agree with the advice to check the number of tokens in the air side. The tokens affect the shape of the air spring force/deflection curve. Curve? Yes, it is not straight like a coil spring. This may seem a disadvantage, but it means that you can tune the shape of the curve to suit YOU. It is very easy to do, and I really mean that - very easy!

Ensure fork deflation by pressing the tit on the Schrader valve when you think it's already empty. Only then unscrew the topcap. You will either need a 24 mm socket (without the internal chamfer) or a Shimano cassette lock ring tool. As you pull out the topcap, the token(s) will come with it. Remove them all, (there may only be one) put the topcap back on and set your sag. Then go for a test ride. Add back 1 token at a time.

PS: If it requires a 24 mm socket and your socket has an internal chamfer, and you don't want to grind down the socket (when did you last use it?), then for heaven's sake be very careful! Press down the socket the whole time, or you risk rounding off the shallow hex - it's only soft aluminium. When you re-tighten the top cap, ensure that you tighten back to the required torque or the air will leak out and your fork will slowly get softer! (yep, that was me! I was bothered about the topcap being rounded if I took it up to the recommended torque, its still not there.)

 

[brash]

have a shop or yourself if you feel confident drop the lowers.

Fox's quality control has gone down the toilet lately. Either no oil or way too much slick honey covering the transfer port trapping the air and giving a harsh ride. I will hazard to guess this is the issue.

Then as above, add 20psi, cycle through the sag point to transfer the ports, then add another 20 and so on until at desired pressure. Remember sag % is a reference point and not the "be all and end all" of measurements.

The 4 digit code will tell you a lot about your fork, plug it in the fox website.

Volume spacers as standard depend on the length of travel, in short, the longer the travel the less spacers delivered as standard.

For the damper settings, start at the recommendations given by Fox, I can't stress this enough. Then fine tune from there, you will find it will probably be overdamped depending on your speed however the rebound suggestions are often on the money. Tune rebound first then compression after. Only one adjustment at a time. Write down what you did, better or worse.

Suspension is such a personal thing, take 2 riders, same weight, same speed and similar style and I bet their settings are wildly different. There is no right or wrong in essence. However there is a theoretical correct setting. Confidence is the key here. When you feel confident and trusting in your suspension the riding speed will follow.

 

[GrandPaBrogan]

I can agree with the advice to consult the Fox website on the correct procedure for inflating the forks. It is no longer a simple job of pump up to 80psi, check sag, adjust and go! Yet I wonder how many bike shop mechanics are aware of this? I sure wasn't, and I had problems with my Rockshox fork until I inflated it as per Rockshox website instructions.

I agree!

To the OP, I'd check to see if "periodic equalisation" is mentioned on your fork manual.

In my case, I re-inflate my forks in 30psi increments. Pumping it up and down before you proceed to the next increment - I keep doing it until I reach my desired air pressure and sag.