Fork upgrade, how to remove block lock fork race?

[squeegee]

I'm contemplating a fork upgrade and was looking at the Acros headset that came on my Decoy. I am unsure how to remove this as there's no where to insert a screw driver tip and no lip at all to hit as there would be on a standard fork race. Not even a very small screw driver tip will fit between race and fork crown.

Does anyone know how this is removed? Special tool or method?

Headset is Acros AZX-260 on a CF Pro model 2019/FOX 36 FLOAT PERFORMANCE ELITE E

I also have searched extensively online and can't find a user manual or any info on this type of headset in as much as removal.

 

[RickBullotta]

I don't know what the "official" technique is, but I sometimes use a wood chisel to CAREFULLY get a little bit of gap under the crown race so that I can remove it. Be CAREFUL because the chisel is sharp and the edge may break if you're not CAREFUL. Take your time and move it a little bit at a time. Good luck. And BE CAREFUL. ;-)

 

[Hannes]

The part is available for purchase individually from Across.

 

[Fx1]

Isn't that just a retaining clip? Looks beefy if it is though

 

[RickBullotta]

No, it limits rotational swing of the fork. Like the stops on a dirt bike frame/fork.

 

[steve_sordy]

Looks like you are "forked"!

Sorry!

 

[Gary]

Take the fork to your LBS
They should have a fork crown race removal tool.
it's a big beast of a tool that sits over the entire steerer and has prongs that are viced into place while a handle on top tightens down on the top of the steerter and pulls the race free.

or use a shitey old flat blade screwdriver and a hammer.

your call

 

[Gary]

do the fork crown/adjusters look like they'll contact the downtube without the block?
If so you may want to try and find a headset compatible with some sort of crown race spacer.
They do exist .no idea what'scompatible with YTs headtube though. They historically do tend to be a bit of a PITA to change.

 

[seamarsh]

For sure take it to a shop.. do not attempt without proper tool.. you have to seat the new race as well.
trust me, I fed this up before.. just take your fork and new headset to your local shop!!

 

[squeegee]

I'm going to see if I can just buy a second race and just seat it on the new fork. If not to expensive probably easier than finding a LBS around here willing or capable. I've never seen the removal tool for a fork race, I would like to see how that works exactly though, sounds interesting.

Normally seating a new race isn't bad, just a piece of PVC pipe does the job, not sure about this race though...

 

[Blinkie]

Chain Reaction Cycles | MTB | Road | TRI | Run

 

[DeezNutzz]

I’m glad I saw this my new fork comes in this week and now I have this to worry about also hahaha

 

[squeegee]

here's another option:

 

[RickBullotta]

It’s not rocket science. Something wedge shaped to tap the gap, move around the circumference a bit at a time. Done.

 

[Gary]

I'm going to see if I can just buy a second race and just seat it on the new fork. If not to expensive probably easier than finding a LBS around here willing or capable. I've never seen the removal tool for a fork race, I would like to see how that works exactly though, sounds interesting.

If you're fitting a new fork, you'd be as well just buying a complete new headset without the stupid lock block nonsense.

Here's the tool in action


It costs 225 notes and get's used in the workshop only a handfull of times a month... Most decently busy bike (repair) shops will have one or similar.

 

[squeegee]

If you're fitting a new fork, you'd be as well just buying a complete new headset without the stupid lock block nonsense.

Actually I realized yesterday when a friend pointed out the grove in the back of race is off center, then I checked my turning and indeed handlebar moves further to one side than other. It was caused by a crash I had a couple month ago and never realized it but probably saved my frame because the crown would hit the frame without the lock. I don't like the headset nor married to it but seems necessary on this bike. I'm going to call YT and ask about a spare race, betting $$ they don't know anything.

Thanks for the vid on the park one, definitely going to check with my favorite LBS and see if they have it.

 

[Kaelidoz]

It’s not rocket science. Something wedge shaped to tap the gap, move around the circumference a bit at a time. Done.

I do agree with you but both times I did it this way, I felt bad. I used a knife and a hammer. It takes ages to see something moving. I succeed with no damage but if I had to do it on something else than my friends cheap suntours I'd probably bring that fork to my bike shop. It's a 2 minutes thing which probably costs less than 25€.

 

[nativeracer]

You should replace it. If you noticed your race has a lot of pitting/scarring on it. I believe it’s $55 for a brand new headset for the bike. You should also keep the lock block. Especially, on the smaller sizes of the Decoy. Otherwise, the fork stanchions will come in contact with the bottom tube of the frame and most likely crack the carbon in a hard crash. Also, after after a crash. You do need to check the steering, the lock block will move. I’ve noticed it on mine as well as my buddies after a good crash.

 

[Kaelidoz]

You should replace it. If you noticed your race has a lot of pitting/scarring on it. I believe it’s $55 for a brand new headset for the bike. You should also keep the lock block. Especially, on the smaller sizes of the Decoy. Otherwise, the fork stanchions will come in contact with the bottom tube of the frame and most likely crack the carbon in a hard crash. Also, after after a crash. You do need to check the steering, the lock block will move. I’ve noticed it on mine as well as my buddies after a good crash.

Man thank you. I was scratching my head trying to figure out why would you need a block in the first place.

 

[nativeracer]

Your welcome.
After a few rides you won’t even notice the steering lock ?

 

[Blinkie]

Here's the tool in action

Don't need it, but I want one

 

[TX1911fan]

I'm contemplating a fork upgrade and was looking at the Acros headset that came on my Decoy. I am unsure how to remove this as there's no where to insert a screw driver tip and no lip at all to hit as there would be on a standard fork race. Not even a very small screw driver tip will fit between race and fork crown.

Does anyone know how this is removed? Special tool or method?

Headset is Acros AZX-260 on a CF Pro model 2019/FOX 36 FLOAT PERFORMANCE ELITE E

I also have searched extensively online and can't find a user manual or any info on this type of headset in as much as removal.

View attachment 26029

Any luck on this? I’m doing the same thing.

 

[Sorinok]

I'm changing that piece to the new fork. With a flat screwdriver, I inserted it in that place that is between the base of the fork and the respective part. with a plastic hammer tap the screwdriver lightly. .... lightly knock around. Attention, the piece has some small pieces of metal inside that play the role of locking the piece on the neck of the fork.

 

[TX1911fan]

I'm changing that piece to the new fork. With a flat screwdriver, I inserted it in that place that is between the base of the fork and the respective part. with a plastic hammer tap the screwdriver lightly. .... lightly knock around. Attention, the piece has some small pieces of metal inside that play the role of locking the piece on the neck of the fork.

I hope the LBS didn’t mess up those metal pieces.

 

[seamarsh]

Actually I realized yesterday when a friend pointed out the grove in the back of race is off center, then I checked my turning and indeed handlebar moves further to one side than other. It was caused by a crash I had a couple month ago and never realized it but probably saved my frame because the crown would hit the frame without the lock. I don't like the headset nor married to it but seems necessary on this bike. I'm going to call YT and ask about a spare race, betting $$ they don't know anything.

Thanks for the vid on the park one, definitely going to check with my favorite LBS and see if they have it.

I just noticed this today on my decoy.. turning bars left they hit the block sooner than turning right.. can the race move in a crash? wonder if it happened last crash I had.. wonder easiest way to recenter it? Any ideas?

 

[rb.]

I just noticed this today on my decoy.. turning bars left they hit the block sooner than turning right.. can the race move in a crash? wonder if it happened last crash I had.. wonder easiest way to recenter it? Any ideas?

Crash on the other side.

Or pull the fork off, and use a hammer and punch to orient it straight again.

 

[seamarsh]

Crash on the other side.

Or pull the fork off, and use a hammer and punch to orient it straight again.

Ha! Surprised I haven’t done that yet!.. makes sense with punch..

 

[seamarsh]

Ha! Surprised I haven’t done that yet!.. makes sense with punch..

so looked at it with fork off and tried a punch but thought better of it before I went to ham fisted!! I called yt and the said just use the bars to reset it. So once I re mounted the fork I just slammed ( not too hard) the bars until it was centered again.. really easy actually.

So don’t bother with punch, just knock the bars a few times and you are good to go.

 

[TX1911fan]

Got mine changed. Was pretty easy once the LBS got the crown race off.

 

[rb.]

Here is how I did it without any of the proper tools.
first I used a screwdriver to get slight movement out of the crown race. Then I used the park tool brake pad spreader and a hammer and slowly worked my way around until it was able to pull free. I then removed most of the needle bearings minus 3 of them. (I tried with none but it was too loose. Didn’t want all of the just for easy of install). Last I used a motion pro fork seal driver for motos to pound on the race. Just a little at a time with a hammer. And bingo, no bike shop or proper tools necessary.