Focus Sam2 rear shock bolt issue

[Stoneham]

Had the Sam2 for a year and done about 700miles with no issues. However, I had a creaking noise coming from the rear shock on my Sam 2 about a month ago. When I torque checked all the bolts on the linkage I found the head of top bolt (pictured below) to be spinning independently of the threaded side of the bolt. So I think this bolt must be sheared as previous posts suggest on this Forum.
I see from other posts the exploded drawings for the Sam2 show part numbers for either a linkage or pivot set so am I to presume you have to purchase the full assembly of parts?
There is also a small amount of play in the top of the shock due to this issue so even though the shock feels secure there must be wear starting to show so I need to find a spare.
Anyone know of where to get a topbolt for the rear shock instead of trying to source the full assembly? Appreciate you can’t get direct from Focus but does anyone know of a reliable UK source?
cheers for help

 

[steve_sordy]

Any dealer selling Focus will be able to help. The bolts come in packs of two and cost about £6. Check whether or not the same bolts are used top and bottom before ordering. (I don't have a Sam2, I have the Jam2).

I got mine from Rutland Cycling at Whitwell. 01780 460705

I would change the bolts asap. As soon as one of the loose bits comes out the frame will start to get damaged (if it isn't already).

To remove the threaded end, use a small diameter drill bit and drill into the end of the bolt. The torque should loosen the bolt and wind it out. Let the back of the bike hang in the air for this to remove pressure on the bolt.

PS: My problem had been the bolt coming loose, so I used threadlock upon reassembly. Loctite blue was fine.

 

[Telemarker]

Agree - ive bought replacement bolt so couple times, from Focus dealer shops in Scotland (Ballater and Boat of Garten)

One thing I have noticed is the bolts are getting a lot of wear so the suspension isn’t working properly, the rotation should occur between shock bushing and mounting hardware tube. On the my bike wear is on bolt where it goes through mounting hardware tube....the bolt shouldn’t show any wear.
I might try a needle roller bearing mount system next

 

[steve_sordy]

@Telemarker Maybe you should check to see if all your pivot bearings are working OK. If a pair of those are stiff or seized, the forces can transfer in part to the shock mountings.

 

[Telemarker]

I replaced all pivot bearings before Christmas. A year after last replacement.
They were moving freely.
And fitted new shock mountain hardware.
And new bolts, loctite the new bolts in place and after a few rides, checked bolt and it was getting wear...refitted and loctite again.

 

[Stoneham]

Cheers Steve for reply and advice. I’ve contacted Rutland so will hopefully hear from them in the next few days. If not I will try Telemarker’s suggestion. Attached is picture of the bolt. i am surprised as to how soft the material of the bolt is. Appreciate it’s probably a sacrificial part and the role it plays is to just nip the shock bushes up but you would think it would be made from at least low grade steel so that it lasts a bit longer. The wear at the head end is plain to see.

 

[Telemarker]

That’s what my shock bolt looked like after snapping.
I reckoned the excessive wear near bolt head happened AFTER the bolt snapped because I didn’t notice until end of ride that there was play in system,

My take on what happens is, the pivoting doesn’t happen at the eyelet bushing but at shock bolt/mounting hardware sleeve, this leads to friction wear on the bolt and loosens it. Then the bolt may snap if it gets too loose.

You can see the wear in the middle area of bolt, that’s what I have seen on new bolts I have fitted... it shouldn’t happen, the movement should be in the eyelet bushing.

 

[Stoneham]

Yeah see what you mean. Makes sense. I’m tempted to use a M8 x 40mm socket head shouldered bolt whilst waiting for the replacement. The bolt will be high tensile so transfer any wear into the eyelet bushing maybe?? ... I’ll wait to get a reply on delivery times first then decide what the best way forward is. Cheers for advice.

 

[TrailBoB]

Yeah see what you mean. Makes sense. I’m tempted to use a M8 x 40mm socket head shouldered bolt whilst waiting for the replacement. The bolt will be high tensile so transfer any wear into the eyelet bushing maybe?? ... I’ll wait to get a reply on delivery times first then decide what the best way forward is. Cheers for advice.

I have a 2020 Jam 6.8 so will need to check this. It looks like the wear on the bolt, at he head end has been caused over time?, so may have elongated the hole slightly in the linkage. If so, it won’t be a snug fit, so replacing just the bolt, may not rectify the issue. Might need a new linkage. It’s worth checking. Keep us updated in the thread. ??

 

[Stoneham]

I have a 2020 Jam 6.8 so will need to check this. It looks like the wear on the bolt, at he head end has been caused over time?, so may have elongated the hole slightly in the linkage. If so, it won’t be a snug fit, so replacing just the bolt, may not rectify the issue. Might need a new linkage. It’s worth checking. Keep us updated in the thread. ??

I have checked the linkage and fortunately the 8mm dia hole is concentric and has no wear . The bushing in the top of the shock and spacers are also not affected so the replacement bolt should cure the issue. However.... Whitwell Bikes (Rutland Cycles) have not been very helpful. They quoted me the part number but cannot locate one from abroad. But the strange email reply I received was that a competitor did have stock but would not quote who the competitor was.... very strange behaviour and for a bolt that costs £5.99.
I’m not happy with Rutland to be honest. I have just bought a 2nd Focus Ebike from them in January and had I known they would be so coy over a £5.99 bolt I would have given £2500 of business to someone else. Anyway i will try another Focus supplier to locate the bolt or may still go for the M8 std cap head. Will keep the thread updated.
cheers for reply.

 

[Mikerb]

The issue could be caused by incorrect assembly? Clearly the linkage and bolt should move as one such that the bolt rotates within the bushing. That means the head of the bolt/ linkage should be free of grease, the central area of the bolt which sits in the bushing should be greased, and the thread should be thread locked. Then the bolt torqued to spec. I know the bottom bolt on my Levo has a pretty high torque setting of nearly 24 nm. Note..do not apply grease to the bushing because that will be picked up by the threads as you push the bolt through. Loctite needs to left for 24 hours to set before use.

 

[TrailBoB]

I have checked the linkage and fortunately the 8mm dia hole is concentric and has no wear . The bushing in the top of the shock and spacers are also not affected so the replacement bolt should cure the issue. However.... Whitwell Bikes (Rutland Cycles) have not been very helpful. They quoted me the part number but cannot locate one from abroad. But the strange email reply I received was that a competitor did have stock but would not quote who the competitor was.... very strange behaviour and for a bolt that costs £5.99.
I’m not happy with Rutland to be honest. I have just bought a 2nd Focus Ebike from them in January and had I known they would be so coy over a £5.99 bolt I would have given £2500 of business to someone else. Anyway i will try another Focus supplier to locate the bolt or may still go for the M8 std cap head. Will keep the thread updated.
cheers for reply.

I got my bike from sprockets in Kilmarnock. Try them, there really helpful & have good knowledge of the products they sell. Can’t understand Rutland cycles being like that. They have nothing to gain & more to lose. Why don’t they get the bolt off the 3rd party put a couple of quid on if need be & have done with it. ??. All the best with getting sorted.

 

[steve_sordy]

........However.... Whitwell Bikes (Rutland Cycles) have not been very helpful. They quoted me the part number but cannot locate one from abroad. But the strange email reply I received was that a competitor did have stock but would not quote who the competitor was.... very strange behaviour and for a bolt that costs £5.99.
I’m not happy with Rutland to be honest. I have just bought a 2nd Focus Ebike from them in January and had I known they would be so coy over a £5.99 bolt I would have given £2500 of business to someone else. Anyway i will try another Focus supplier to locate the bolt or may still go for the M8 std cap head. ..........

That is so unlike all the behaviour I have experienced with Rutland Cycling that I suspect it is an individual's decision rather than company policy (everyone can have a bad day). When the lower shock mounting bolt sheared on my Focus Jam2 and it was going to take several weeks for the new bolt to come, they robbed a bolt from a hire bike that was in the workshop. I was back on the road the following day. I have had several examples of customer service like that.
Maybe ask to speak to the workshop manager?

 

[Stoneham]

I got my bike from sprockets in Kilmarnock. Try them, there really helpful & have good knowledge of the products they sell. Can’t understand Rutland cycles being like that. They have nothing to gain & more to lose. Why don’t they get the bolt off the 3rd party put a couple of quid on if need be & have done with it. ??. All the best with getting sorted.

Will give them a try cheers for your help

 

[Stoneham]

That is so unlike all the behaviour I have experienced with Rutland Cycling that I suspect it is an individual's decision rather than company policy (everyone can have a bad day). When the lower shock mounting bolt sheared on my Focus Jam2 and it was going to take several weeks for the new bolt to come, they robbed a bolt from a hire bike that was in the workshop. I was back on the road the following day. I have had several examples of customer service like that.
Maybe ask to speak to the workshop manager?

Yeah you probably right Steve and remember reading your post on this on the forum with regards to your Jam2. Gonna try and source elsewhere but will let them know about their customer service in this instance.
cheers

 

[rosetta]

Had a nasty squeak when compressing the rear suspension that did not know where it came from and saw this thread...

Not broken but only a matter of time. After cleaning and greasing it stopped making noise but I don't trust it. I'll order a set but this will happen again. It would be great to find a long-term solution (small bearings?)

Roberto

 

[Stoneham]

Had a nasty squeak when compressing the rear suspension that did not know where it came from and saw this thread...

View attachment 55025

Not broken but only a matter of time. After cleaning and greasing it stopped making noise but I don't trust it. I'll order a set but this will happen again. It would be great to find a long-term solution (small bearings?)

Roberto
looks like you might have caught this just in time. I would get a replacement bolt before it fails. Not sure about smaller bearings but you can replace the shock bushings to return it back to its original state. The centre sleeve in the shock may have wear so will not help just refitting the bolt. The sleeve and bushings are not too expensive. Hope this helps

 

[Telemarker]

The bolt shouldnt be getting any wear, I have never had shock bolt wear on other suspension bikes. The rotation and wear should occur between the shock eyelet bushing and the sleeve/tube the bolt goes through.
But on these focus bikes seems rotations and wear also occur so between the bolt and metal sleeve/tube....
Not sure how to stop this happening

I have bought fox roller needle bearing unit from BETD but not fitted it yet

 

[Mikerb]

Maybe it differs on different shock set ups but on the shocks for my Levo the top shock eyelet has a bushing which has no rotational movement. The bolt acts as the axle and rotation on that bolt is only a few degrees, and it would be the eyelet plus bushing arrangement rotating around the bolt. The bolt shaft should therefore be smeared with grease on assembly.

 

[rosetta]

Maybe it differs on different shock set ups but on the shocks for my Levo the top shock eyelet has a bushing which has no rotational movement. The bolt acts as the axle and rotation on that bolt is only a few degrees, and it would be the eyelet plus bushing arrangement rotating around the bolt. The bolt shaft should therefore be smeared with grease on assembly.

The bushing does not seem to rotate in my sam2 either. Agree the bolt should be smooth and greased.

Nice jibe pic btw ;-)

Roberto

 

[Shy Ted]

Wish I’d have seen this thread a week or so ago; had my Jam 6.8 in dealership for a rear wheel rebuild and new hub (that’s another thread), and the techie give it a test ride and said you’ve got a few squeaks; it’ll cost 60quid to take out all the pivot bolts and regrease them. Being a cheapskate I said it’s something I can do my self, so promptly got it home and dribbled some oil down each pivot point, it stopped the squeak, but now I’m thinking if I’d have agreed to them at least the bolts could have been replaced under warranty if anything proved untoward. Time to do a proper job, methinks. PS I’d agree with Steve regarding Rutland; 99% of the time they’ve been really good in resolving my many warranty issues

 

[Lorieng7]

Any idea what size the bolt is? I cant find one and i need it urgently.

Had a nasty squeak when compressing the rear suspension that did not know where it came from and saw this thread...

View attachment 55025

Not broken but only a matter of time. After cleaning and greasing it stopped making noise but I don't trust it. I'll order a set but this will happen again. It would be great to find a long-term solution (small bearings?)

Roberto

 

[steve_sordy]

Any idea what size the bolt is? I cant find one and i need it urgently.

My Focus Jam2 bolts were definitely 8mm and the upper and lower bolts were different lengths.

 

[Lorieng7]

My Focus Jam2 bolts were definitely 8mm and the upper and lower bolts were different lengths.
View attachment 80025

Thanks so much.
Do you know anywhere that has any in stock or can i just visit a decent metalworks company

 

[steve_sordy]

Thanks so much.
Do you know anywhere that has any in stock or can i just visit a decent metalworks company

I got mine from Rutland Cycling. They had to order them.
The bolts are not steel, but an aluminium alloy - probably a high strength one (but I don't know).

 

[Mikerb]

I got mine from Rutland Cycling. They had to order them.
The bolts are not steel, but an aluminium alloy - probably a high strength one (but I don't know).

....because steel and aluminium react with each other causing corrosion. Generally if you build in aluminium you fasten with aluminium. High strength aluminium alloy bolts will be made with 7075 aluminium. Or for ultimate strength use Titanium.

 

[steve_sordy]

....because steel and aluminium react with each other causing corrosion. Generally if you build in aluminium you fasten with aluminium. High strength aluminium alloy bolts will be made with 7075 aluminium. Or for ultimate strength use Titanium.

They even have a term for it "galvanic corrosion", some call it bi-metallic corrosion. One of the metals rots away faster than the other. Something to do with whereabouts they are on a scale, as to which one does the rotting. Which one is more anodic than the other. The anode rots and the cathode (the other metal) is unaffected. For example, zinc rots away when in contact with steel, hence zinc plating or galvanizing of steel components to protect from rusting.

I have no idea where aluminium and steel are in relation to each other on the scale, but they don't need to be far apart for galvanic corrosion to occur. I don't know for sure, but if they are not too far apart, grease may separate them electrically enough to prevent the corrosion. Therefore, best not to use steel/aluminium contacts other than for an emergency and for short periods only. I wonder what effect nickel plating of the steel bolt would have? But nickel is a metal too and may be worse when paired with aluminium.

Because of the use of Titanium bolts by the weight weenies, I guess that Titanium is close enough to aluminium not to be a problem for galvanic corrosion to be a problem.