Focus owners, check your shock mounting bolts!

[steve_sordy]

I have a Focus Jam2 2019 9.6 NINE
After my previous post advising you all to check your Novatec axle tightness (it came loose again, so I've threadlocked it), I should have checked every other bolt on the bike. But I didn't. Never occurred to me to check the shock mounting bolts.

Yesterday, I noticed that the lower shock mounting bolt was sticking out a bit towards the non-drive side. I got my Allen key out and screwed it back in, but it just went round and round! Long story short, the bolt screws in to the frame and ends up flush with the frame on the drive side. The bolt had come loose and worked its way out away from the drive side, then the threaded section sheared off, leaving the stub engaged with the threads in the frame! The bolt is black anodised aluminium alloy. The shaft of the bolt is scored and all the black anodising is worn off on one side. That is after less than 740 miles. I don't do big jumps and so far I haven't been riding loads of rocks, just the roughest bit of forest I can find.

I spoke to one of the technicians at Rutland Cycling and he said that he would have expected threadlock to have been used, but there was no sign of it. Standard procedure is to drill a small hole in the broken off stub and then engage some sort of thread removal tool, but often the drilling unwinds the stub anyway. If they can't get it out, the frame is a write off. RC don't stock these bolts (I asked for a top bolt as well) and Derby Group (owners or UK agent for Focus unsure which) are not renowned for their fast delivery of spares. I could be without my bike for a fortnight! Warranty claim of course.

My advice to you guys: (Do it before your next ride).

Deflate the shock to a low pressure, but not so much the shock collapses completely, because the top mounting rotates behind the rear triangle and becomes inaccessible. Remove one bolt at a time, apply threadlock and refit, torque to the settings printed on the bolts (12Nm on my bike). Inflate the shock back to your preferred pressure.
While you are at it, remove the Novatec axle and use threadlock (12-14Nm). (See my previous thread on the topic).

 

[Telemarker]

Indeed
See my post here - link pasted at bottom of this message

Let us know how you get on, more cases like this might make Focus listen

I fitted new bolt provided my local dealer
but it would work loose on rides
Focus rep told the shop to tell me to use loctite
and the reply from shop when I asked if this doesn’t work and what long. Term solution would be was one word emai:

Loctite

So I tried loctite and bolt worked loose after a couple rides. But loctite was 10yrs old and I hadn’t degreased bolt or hole

So got new bottle of loctite, and degreased bolt and hole
And done about 150 Km of hard riding and so far bolt not budged



Snapped lower shock mounting bolt on Sam2 - EMTB Forums

 

[billwarwick]

Steve, with the latest problems that you've had, coupled with the cold weather charging saga from last winter, would you buy Focus again?
I'm waiting to see the 2020 model with Bosch 625, also there are good deals on last years models to be had. Just get a bit twitchy reading about the problems.

 

[steve_sordy]

@billwarwick Yes I would have no problem buying another Focus. The cold weather charging saga was in my mind easily resolved by changing the charger to a 4.0Amp version instead of the 4.5Amp version. It was Focus that made it into a saga. Stuff like that is part and parcel of new products. This may be unique to Focus, or it may be unique to the chargers if they supply other bike makers.

The rear axle coming loose and the shock mounting bolt are easily resolved with thread-lock. I believe that this should have been done by Focus and it was easily done by me. I just wish that I had thought to check all the bolts! By the way, I had a bad off several months ago because the stem bolts were not tight enough! Can you see a theme emerging here?

In other words, there is nothing wrong with the basic bike design. Unlike other bikes that we read about that have all sorts of problems (multiple new motors, waterproofing fitments and all manner of weird stuff that bikes should not have needed if they were properly designed in the first place).

I said that I would have no problem buying another Focus, but that would be only after testing several other bikes in the usual fashion. I quite like the look of the Whyte ebike, but that is brand new and may present some problems in time. At least I know what the Focus issues are (easily fixed, so far). Who knows what problems the new Bosch motor may bring?

 

[steve_sordy]

@Telemarker I have just followed your link and it is pretty much exactly what happened to mine. Bolt worked loose, moved, thread sheared off, stub stuck in frame, needs extracting.

I hope that RC can extract the stub and that the threads are not damaged. I have asked them to inspect the shock bushing and also the top mounting. Looks like its going to be two weeks! That is not down to RC, but Focus's slow delivery of spares. Lets hope they are not on holiday in Germany!

 

[Mikerb]

Perhaps not surprising but I sense a lack of general engineering knowledge with some who experience problems with bolts coming loose. Any bolt will come loose unless it has some system to prevent that happening, but the sytems used vary depending on the application. Those systems include, spring washers, serrated washers, thread lock, and on occasion tension provided by the part into which the bolt is screwed. Flat washers are used in addition to those systems where a bolt or nut is fixed against a softer material and/or there is a need to spread the load.
With bikes the bolt thread is either cut direct in the ally ( which presents its own problems due to how soft ally is) or a steel thread insert is used.
In all cases using the correct torque is important both to ensure the correct degree of tension ( assuming the part the bolt is threaded into provides that tension or a spring washer is used) and to prevent damage to the receiving thread/bike part.
Every bolt needs one of the above systems.
If threadlock is used, the bolt thread and receiving thread must be clean and free from grease. Once tightened to the correct torque, you cannot re tighten or adjust since that destroys the bond created by the threadlock. The only option is to remove the bolt , clean it and the receiving thread and re apply the threadlock.
There are a few bolts on a bike that rely on the tension applied by the parts of the bike being bolted. It is essential in these cases that the correct torque is used and the threads are greased. These include bolts like rear wheel through axles ( tension provided by compressing the chainstays), headset stem, saddle rails, seat post. With the rear through axle, too little torque and it will come loose, too much torque and the chainstays will be completely compressed and therefore provide no tension.....too much torque can be applied if the thread is not well greased. A bolt that it is necessary to remove ...e.g to remove a rear wheel, will not be threadlocked. Over tightening other examples above can damage the bike.
Pivot bolts and shock bolts are greased on the shaft section, threadlocked on the thread.
Spring washers tend not to be used when fixing to ally because it is too soft.
Flat washers are often used to ensure the head of a bolt does not damage the ally part.

So when checking a bike to ensure nothing is coming loose the worst thing you can do is tighten bolts that are threadlocked. You need to just check they are not loose without actually moving them.
Ge in the habit of using a torque wrench everytime. When fixing something on the trail and a torque wrench is not available be aware it needs checking and fixing properly when you get back and have access to something better than a multi tool.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Another engineer here (mechanical) and ex-motorcycle mechanic. Get a torque wrench and use it. I check all my bolts every so often, maybe once a week but at least twice a month, just like air pressure, but maybe not quite as often. The only bolts I've had that really loosen after the initial torquing have been the crank arms and the two batter bolts and those I check often. The rest are pretty much stable without having to resort to a thread locker. That's not to say that I wouldn't use one.

 

[HORSPWR]

@billwarwick Yes I would have no problem buying another Focus. The cold weather charging saga was in my mind easily resolved by changing the charger to a 4.0Amp version instead of the 4.5Amp version. It was Focus that made it into a saga. Stuff like that is part and parcel of new products. This may be unique to Focus, or it may be unique to the chargers if they supply other bike makers.

The rear axle coming loose and the shock mounting bolt are easily resolved with thread-lock. I believe that this should have been done by Focus and it was easily done by me. I just wish that I had thought to check all the bolts! By the way, I had a bad off several months ago because the stem bolts were not tight enough! Can you see a theme emerging here?

In other words, there is nothing wrong with the basic bike design. Unlike other bikes that we read about that have all sorts of problems (multiple new motors, waterproofing fitments and all manner of weird stuff that bikes should not have needed if they were properly designed in the first place).

I said that I would have no problem buying another Focus, but that would be only after testing several other bikes in the usual fashion. I quite like the look of the Whyte ebike, but that is brand new and may present some problems in time. At least I know what the Focus issues are (easily fixed, so far). Who knows what problems the new Bosch motor may bring?

There's something wrong with a bike design that requires an axle to need threadlocker!

 

[Telemarker]

@Telemarker I have just followed your link and it is pretty much exactly what happened to mine. Bolt worked loose, moved, thread sheared off, stub stuck in frame, needs extracting.

I hope that RC can extract the stub and that the threads are not damaged. I have asked them to inspect the shock bushing and also the top mounting. Looks like its going to be two weeks! That is not down to RC, but Focus's slow delivery of spares. Lets hope they are not on holiday in Germany!

Hope they get the part quickly Steve
I found extracting the broken stub was straightforward, one of rare times an extractor was worked for me (on 15yr old rusty 4x4 sheared bolts the tool usually snaps)

It would be good If then RC mechanic. Can let the focus UK rep know about this.
He apparently only knew of one other snapped lower shock bolt, an ex-motocross rider who was hitting big jumps on his focus.

I too am amazed no threadlock used in factory
My Kona bikes always had threadlock or a nylock-locking nut on suspension bolts.

 

[steve_sordy]

There's something wrong with a bike design that requires an axle to need threadlocker!

We all have our views and in an ideal world no screwed fastening would ever come loose. But the designer has constraints. Yes, if the bit the bolt was screwing into was longer, a higher torque could be specified, or if weight was not a problem a Nyloc nut. Unfortunately the designer is constrained by weight, space (and cost of course), as are many designers for many products. So alternatives have to be employed. This is why riveting*, welding, glueing*, and various bonding processes were developed in order to avoid nuts, bolts and screws. Where they are unavoidable, things like Loctite and nyloc nuts were developed to ensure stuff stayed screwed. I am uncertain whether the lack of thread lock is a design defect (failed to specify) or a manufacturing defect (failed to apply). But there was a defect of some kind, because as you say, this sort of stuff should not come undone!

Edit*: In fact riveting was in use by blacksmiths before the screw thread was developed, and animal glue has been used for millennia. But I'm sure you get my point, we are talking about modern techniques.

 

[highpeakrider]

Must admit mine are regularly removed bit of grease, torqued back up.
Mine own view it’s a moving suspension system requiring regular maintenance and lubrication.
Not had one come loose and wheels have the same checks.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

While not the subject of this thread, make sure you check the loose ball/race bearings in the freewheel assy. Mine and others have failed very early and it did not look like it had very much grease, which was black and grimy. And I don't wash my bike and it sees little if any water in SoCal. I have a d462 freewheel assy coming that has 3 cartridge bearings in the that assy and is still steel and 5 pawls. It took a long time to find it from someone that will ship to the US.

 

[steve_sordy]

@Mikerb Believe it or not, I am a five-year apprentice trained mechanical engineer, also got a B.Eng Hons in mechanical engineering, and was a member of the Institution of Mechanical Engineering until I gave up work. So I do understand completely where you are coming from.

That Novatec axle came loose early on, so when I removed it, it was cleaned then lubed and then torqued up to the value written on the axle. But it still came loose. So if doing it right doesn't fix it what are you supposed to do? Improvise is the answer. So the whole thing was cleaned up again; I even removed the captive nut from the non-drive side and made sure it was clean. Only then did I use Loctite threadlock blue. Let's hope it works this time. But as @sdcoffeeroaster advises, I won't be checking tightness by undoing and immediately re-torquing. I've never had axle bolts come loose before, or shock mounting bolts for that matter, so I confess that it was an unpleasant learning experience. Maybe @HORSPWR has a point when he says if it was designed properly it shouldn't come undone. I agree, but the design should also include specifying the type of fastening and the method of assembly. As I replied to him, we don't know whether it was a design defect (not specified) or a manufacturing defect (not applied).
It would be nice if the bike never had a single problem. But then I've only been riding mtbs for 11 years, so I have plenty of time left (hopefully! ) to receive some more unpleasant surprises.

 

[Mikerb]

@Mikerb Believe it or not, I am a five-year apprentice trained mechanical engineer, also got a B.Eng Hons in mechanical engineering, and was a member of the Institution of Mechanical Engineering until I gave up work. So I do understand completely where you are coming from.

That Novatec axle came loose early on, so when I removed it, it was cleaned then lubed and then torqued up to the value written on the axle. But it still came loose. So if doing it right doesn't fix it what are you supposed to do? Improvise is the answer. So the whole thing was cleaned up again; I even removed the captive nut from the non-drive side and made sure it was clean. Only then did I use Loctite threadlock blue. Let's hope it works this time. But as @sdcoffeeroaster advises, I won't be checking tightness by undoing and immediately re-torquing. I've never had axle bolts come loose before, or shock mounting bolts for that matter, so I confess that it was an unpleasant learning experience. Maybe @HORSPWR has a point when he says if it was designed properly it shouldn't come undone. I agree, but the design should also include specifying the type of fastening and the method of assembly. As I replied to him, we don't know whether it was a design defect (not specified) or a manufacturing defect (not applied).
It would be nice if the bike never had a single problem. But then I've only been riding mtbs for 11 years, so I have plenty of time left (hopefully! ) to receive some more unpleasant surprises.

I have none of your qualifications but learnt the hard way I guess building and prepping my own race cars (the old equivalent of todays Rallycross). The axle and recieving thread/ captive nut are ally. Once it comes loose and is used before noticeing the likelihokd is that the thread is worn. A new thru axle and captive nut properly greased and torqued would probably have solved the problem. Even with HT steel bolts on my race cars, those in areas of high stress were renewed if they were removed.

 

[steve_sordy]

@Mikerb Don't ever undervalue the benefit of experience. My daughter who was always much brighter than me got a masters in engineering and did all sorts of high profile engineering jobs, but she told me that she was frequently envious of the huge knowledge and experience of the installation and maintenance technicians that used to work for her. They did stuff and fixed problems almost in passing that she said would have taken her some time to come up with, if ever! That's why I Iove these forums; all that experience and knowledge is on tap, just for the asking!

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Steve, I agree, always something new to learn from others no matter your background if you're listening and paying attention. I had no background in bicycles, only motorcycles as a mechanic and service manager, when I bought my first mountain bike at age 67. I've learned a lot from friends and online since then and have acquired a host of special tools too. I see a lot of riders out there that don't have any work done on their bikes until they break down. I don't know what they're thinking because I check lots of things on my bike before every ride. The difference is that many of them break down in a catastrophic and unsafe way out on the trail where I found issues before my rides. e bikes are especially hard on equipment and you just have to stay up on it to stay safe.

Oh good news from my USA bike shop. They have contacted Focus and they are submitting a warranty claim for my rear hub. I wasn't even after that when I contacted this dealer because I would have been satisfied with being able to purchase a replacement part. My new cassette driver is slowly making it way out of China to me so we'll see who wins this race. Looks like I might have a spare free wheel assy. if the warranty claim is approved.

 

[steve_sordy]

Well a big UP! to Rutland Cycling at Whitwell. Thanks Andrew.

Ref the broken lower shock mounting bolt on my Focus Jam2: I got an email today to say that the bike was ready! I was expecting to have to chase it up after two weeks and that was if the bolt could be removed!

They reported the issue to Derby Cycles as a warranty claim. And they ordered a new bolt. When they discovered how long it would be before they got a replacement bolt, they ordered four and then took one from a stock bike and fitted it to mine. They removed the broken stub, chased the thread out, inspected the mountings for damage, checked the shock bush. And then did the same at the top end of the shock too. No other damage was found. The new lower shock mounting bolt was secured with Loctite Blue thread lock and the bolt torqued up. When the spares come in, they will send me one. The bolt ref is KD325917067 from Derby Cycles (Focus owner).

They returned the broken bolt, see pic below. It looks to me as though the bolt worked its way out until the thread got to the shock bushing. Then the bolt cracked at the thread and the crack spread with every bounce on the bike until there was so little metal left that it finally sheared.

The black finish worn from the bolt looks like very bad scoring in the picture, but it is very smooth. I can't feel it with my fingers until I drag a fingernail across it.

You can see the hole drilled in the bottom of the threaded stub. What you can't see is that there is a screw thread inside the hole where the extraction tool was inserted.

That cost £35, which is the standard charge for processing a warranty claim for a bike not bought from them. I prefer to pay that than drive for a 3 hour round trip, twice to JE James at Sheffield. Nothing wrong with JEJames, just the distance which is my fault.

Edit: several weeks later, I was in the shop on another matter and one of the guys gave me a small plastic bag with two bolts in it! Yes, the shock mounting bolts.

 

[highpeakrider]

Can’t fault that for service.

 

[Telemarker]

How hasn’t bike been with new bolt and loctite?
Bolt on my Sam2 has come loose again after another 3 months, reapplied loctite and it’s hand happened again within one ride.
Now Allen key socket has rounded off , even though I used a torque wrench each time

 

[steve_sordy]

The bolt threads and the threads they are screwing into have to be clean for the Loctite to work best. I used iso-propyl-alcohol (IPA) to clean the threads, but I would also scrub any old Loctite off with a wire brush if there was any.

And the Loctite has to be reasonably new. I haven't been into the garage to see if my Loctite has an expiry date on it. I knew that cleanliness was a thing, but not the age until recently.

And which Loctite? I use the Loctite that is blue and pasty (again, I can't be arsed to go look in the garage to see exactly which one I've been using,but it is called "thread lock").

 

[Telemarker]

I did clean well with iso alcholol.
And used fresh bottle of loctite 243. Red bottle but think liquid was blue

 

[Mikerb]

A bolt correctly torqued that is not subject to vibration and which bolts into a material with the same shear strength, should not need thread lock and should not come loose. If it does either the bolt or the thread of the component or nut it is threaded into is knackered. If there are no gaskets or selas involved there is no reason why a bolt should not be a ble to threaded mostly by hand until the faces meet. Where that is not the case it provides evidence that the thread is damaged or the bolt is not true. There are a number of applications where bolts are subject to high stress that they are not re-useable. In short I would buy a new bolt......ps I doubt ISA would clean thread lock. ISA cleans oils and grease deposits, thread lock is a glue.

 

[Injidup]

Should I be worried? My Focus doesn’t have a shock mounting bolt. It doesn’t even have a shock! ?

 

[OldBean]

@Mikerb Don't ever undervalue the benefit of experience. My daughter who was always much brighter than me got a masters in engineering and did all sorts of high profile engineering jobs, but she told me that she was frequently envious of the huge knowledge and experience of the installation and maintenance technicians that used to work for her. They did stuff and fixed problems almost in passing that she said would have taken her some time to come up with, if ever! That's why I Iove these forums; all that experience and knowledge is on tap, just for the asking!

I was involved specifying packaging machinery and like your daughter was always impressed that the fitters working on the line knew MUCH more about the equipment than the manufacturers installation engineers ...guess it boils down to experience on the actual application.
I admire engineers...sadly always undervalued........

 

[steve_sordy]

........I admire engineers...sadly always undervalued........

I can't argue with that, not one little bit!

 

[steve_sordy]

In Praise of Engineers

To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

A pastor, a doctor and an engineer were waiting one morning for a particularly slow group of golfers. The engineer fumed, "What's with these guys? We must have been waiting for 15 minutes!" The doctor chimed in, "I don't know, but I've never seen such ineptitude!" The pastor said, "Hey, here comes the greens keeper. Let's have a word with him." "Hi George. Say, what's with that group ahead of us? They're rather slow, aren't they?" The greens keeper replied, "Oh, yes, that's a group of blind fire-fighters. They lost their sight saving our clubhouse from a fire last year, so we always let them play for free anytime." The group was silent for a moment. The pastor said, "That's so sad. I think I will say a special prayer for them tonight." The doctor said, "Good idea, and I'm going to contact my ophthalmologist buddy and see if there's anything he can do for them." The engineer said, "Why can't these guys play at night?"

What is the difference between Mechanical Engineers and Civil Engineers? Mechanical Engineers build weapons, Civil Engineers build targets.

The graduate with a Science degree asks, "Why does it work?" The graduate with an Engineering degree asks, "How does it work?" The graduate with an Accounting degree asks, "How much will it cost?" The graduate with an Arts degree asks, "Do you want fries with that?"

Three engineering students were gathered together discussing the possible designers of the human body. One said, "It was a mechanical engineer. Just look at all the joints." Another said, "No, it was an electrical Engineer. The nervous system has many thousands of electrical connections." The last one said, "Actually it was a civil engineer. Who else would run a toxic waste pipeline through a recreational area?"

"Normal people ... believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet."

An architect, an artist and an engineer were discussing whether it was better to spend time with the wife or a mistress. The architect said he enjoyed time with his wife, building a solid foundation for an enduring relationship. The artist said he enjoyed time with his mistress, because of the passion and mystery he found there. The engineer said, "I like both." "Both?" "Yeah. If you have a wife and a mistress, they will each assume you are spending time with the other woman, and you can go to the lab and get some work done."

An engineer was crossing a road one day when a frog called out to him and said, "If you kiss me, I'll turn into a beautiful princess." He bent over, picked up the frog and put it in his pocket. The frog spoke up again and said, "If you kiss me and turn me back into a beautiful princess, I will stay with you for one week." The engineer took the frog out of his pocket, smiled at it and returned it to the pocket. The frog then cried out, "If you kiss me and turn me back into a princess, I'll stay with you and do ANYTHING you want." Again the engineer took the frog out, smiled at it and put it back into his pocket. Finally, the frog asked, "What is the matter? I've told you I'm a beautiful princess, that I'll stay with you for a week and do anything you want. Why won't you kiss me?" The engineer said, "Look I'm an engineer. I don't have time for a girl friend, but a talking frog...that's cool."

 

[YorkshireDan]

I have a Focus Jam2 2019 9.6 NINE
After my previous post advising you all to check your Novatec axle tightness (it came loose again, so I've threadlocked it), I should have checked every other bolt on the bike. But I didn't. Never occurred to me to check the shock mounting bolts.

Yesterday, I noticed that the lower shock mounting bolt was sticking out a bit towards the non-drive side. I got my Allen key out and screwed it back in, but it just went round and round! Long story short, the bolt screws in to the frame and ends up flush with the frame on the drive side. The bolt had come loose and worked its way out away from the drive side, then the threaded section sheared off, leaving the stub engaged with the threads in the frame! The bolt is black anodised aluminium alloy. The shaft of the bolt is scored and all the black anodising is worn off on one side. That is after less than 740 miles. I don't do big jumps and so far I haven't been riding loads of rocks, just the roughest bit of forest I can find.

I spoke to one of the technicians at Rutland Cycling and he said that he would have expected threadlock to have been used, but there was no sign of it. Standard procedure is to drill a small hole in the broken off stub and then engage some sort of thread removal tool, but often the drilling unwinds the stub anyway. If they can't get it out, the frame is a write off. RC don't stock these bolts (I asked for a top bolt as well) and Derby Group (owners or UK agent for Focus unsure which) are not renowned for their fast delivery of spares. I could be without my bike for a fortnight! Warranty claim of course.

My advice to you guys: (Do it before your next ride).

Deflate the shock to a low pressure, but not so much the shock collapses completely, because the top mounting rotates behind the rear triangle and becomes inaccessible. Remove one bolt at a time, apply threadlock and refit, torque to the settings printed on the bolts (12Nm on my bike). Inflate the shock back to your preferred pressure.
While you are at it, remove the Novatec axle and use threadlock (12-14Nm). (See my previous thread on the topic).

Stripped all the bolts out, relubed and thread locked them back in. And the frame won’t be a right off, it’s an m8 thread, it can be repaired with a helicoil kit which is probably stronger than the original thread to start with

 

[Erez]

Hi,
I know that this forum is for Focus EMTB but I am searching bolts kit for my Focus Spine (2016) bikes. Does anyone know where can I get such? Those are 2nd hand bikes that I am using for the past year and I haven't noticed that 2 bolts are ruined (by the one who sold them to me). Now I hear some noises from the shock area and my mechanic try to disassemble the bolts and noticed that the bolts are damaged. Can any one direct me to an online store? Thanks, Erez

 

[steve_sordy]

@Erez Rutland Cycling are a Focus dealer

Bike Shop Whitwell | Rutland Cycling Whitwell Leicestershire

Our Leicestershire bike shop is our flagship store selling top bike brands like Giant, Specialized, Shimano and many more. Click to view our full range.

www.rutlandcycling.com

Another Focus dealer is JE James

Sheffield Store | JE James Cycles

Our two stores in Sheffield have undergone a major refurbishment to ensure our customers are offered the best opportunity to find the bike, parts, accessories and services they require.

www.jejamescycles.com

For both of them, if you can't find what you want on their website (unlikely) I would not hesitate to email them, or phone them to get what you want.

 

[Erez]

@Erez Rutland Cycling are a Focus dealer

Bike Shop Whitwell | Rutland Cycling Whitwell Leicestershire

Our Leicestershire bike shop is our flagship store selling top bike brands like Giant, Specialized, Shimano and many more. Click to view our full range.

www.rutlandcycling.com

Another Focus dealer is JE James

Sheffield Store | JE James Cycles

Our two stores in Sheffield have undergone a major refurbishment to ensure our customers are offered the best opportunity to find the bike, parts, accessories and services they require.

www.jejamescycles.com

For both of them, if you can't find what you want on their website (unlikely) I would not hesitate to email them, or phone them to get what you want.

Steve, thank you very much - I will contact them hoping they have those bolts. I will update..