Focus owners; check your Novatec rear axle tightness!

[steve_sordy]

Over the last two weeks, the 11-speed Shimano shifting on my 2019 Jam2 had become irregular, shifting by itself on gears 5-7 when under load. I kept meaning to look at it... Then yesterday the chain would not stay in the big gear when powering uphill! With the reports on here about emtbs wearing out chains faster I briefly wondering if it could be that, but it didn't feel like chain slip, and I had been checking it. The chief suspect was a bent mech hanger as there was a gouge on the outside of the mech body. I have a mech-hanger alignment gauge and tool, so I resolved to sort that out asap, and today was the day!......

I got the mech hanger alignment tool screwed into the hanger and I noticed that there was movement when there shouldn't be. A quick inspection revealed that the Novatec axle on the rear hub had become loose! The LBS had said not to over tighten; maybe I didn’t get it tight enough before (my torque wrench is broken). The lesson "re-learned" is to check the basics before thinking of anything more exotic!!
The front axle was OK.

Anyway, the hanger alignment was not perfect, but it is now!
While the bike was in the workstand I thought I might as well do a proper job and I removed the chain and reset the whole thing from scratch. The limit screws were both out, B-screw (gap too small), cable tension (slack). I'm surprised the shifting worked as well as it did!

I also checked the chain length and it was OK (0.33% at 575m). That is better than most of my 9 and 10-speed clockwork bikes.

The shifting is now spot on and I'm about to go check it under load.

PS: The chain length on a Large Focus Jam2 is 120 links.

EDIT: 18th Aug'19: The axle came loose again! So I used threadlock and with my new torque wrench, torqued to 14Nm, the max allowable written on the axle. Hopefully that will do the job.

EDIT: 16th Oct'20: It did!

 

[pegnose]

Anyway, the hanger alignment was not perfect, but it is now!
While the bike was in the workstand I thought I might as well do a proper job and I removed the chain and reset the whole thing from scratch. The limit screws were both out, B-screw (gap too small), cable tension (slack). I'm surprised the shifting worked as well as it did!

I also checked the chain length and it was OK (0.33% at 575m). That is better than most of my 9 and 10-speed clockwork bikes.

Steve, would you care to elaborate for a newbie? Which one of the two is the B-screw? And slack is what you don't want in the derailleur cable even on the smallest sprocket, right? Also I don't understand the % and m value for the chain length.

PS: What is a clockwork bike? From the lowercase I assume it is not a brand?

 

[highpeakrider]

So that’s over 2 weeks and you have not safety checked your bike??
Tut tut Mr Sordy

 

[steve_sordy]

Steve, would you care to elaborate for a newbie? Which one of the two is the B-screw? And slack is what you don't want in the derailleur cable even on the smallest sprocket, right? Also I don't understand the % and m value for the chain length.

PS: What is a clockwork bike? From the lowercase I assume it is not a brand?

The B-screw is a third screw on the mech and is not one of the two limit screws. It adjusts the position of the upper jockey wheel in relation to the cassette. If the gap (known as the B-gap) is too small, the mech can foul the big gear on the cassette. I prefer it to be as small as possible without fouling. I would provide a photo, but I have just dropped off the bike at the menders.

Gear cable slack: When the chain is on the smallest gear of the cassette, the gear cable needs to be tight enough that when you shift up with one press of the big lever, the chain moves smoothly up once to the next larger gear, and smoothly back again when the small lever is pressed. I normally set the cable tension by having the cable tension adjustment knob at the shifter end of the outer cable about half way through its travel, (some only have it two full turns away from fully out). Then with the chain in the smallest gear and the shifter set appropriately, I pull the mech end of the cable with a pair of piers and nip up the cable clamp (at the mech end). Usually, when I shift gear once the chain shifts immediately. If it doesn't then the cable is not tight enough and you need to turn the adjustment knob until the chain moves smoothly up onto the next gear after the smallest one. If the limit screws are in the correct place and the mech is hanging straight, then the shifting through the range up and down should be spot on.

Chan length: Wear on a chain is most easily measured by how much longer it is than when it was new. This is expressed as a percentage (%) of the new value. People call it "stretch", but the chain hasn't actually stretched, the pins have worn in the sideplates and the chain gets longer because the pitch of each individual link is longer than the original half an inch. It is commonly accepted practice that the chain needs replacing when the "stretch" exceeds 0.75% and it should be discarded at 1%. Because we are talking of very small amounts, it is easier to measure over more than one link. If you lay out a new chain on a flat worktop and measure 100 links with a steel tape measure, they will measure 50". A chain that is due for replacement will measure 50-3/8" (50.375 divided by 50 = 1.0075, ie 0.075% longer).
To save having to remove the chain, you can buy a go/nogo gauge for a few pounds. They usually give two key measures, less than 0.75% (OK) and more than 1% (replace). Because I have one, I prefer to use my vernier caliper gauge so that I can track the chain wear as it approaches 0.75%. The "m" figure means miles (apologies to those not from the UK).
So my "0.33% at 575m" means that after 575 miles of use, the chain "stretch" is 0.33%.

My use of the term "clockwork bike" refers to manually propelled non-emtbs, ie the bikes we had before electric ones. Some people prefer "acoustic", "manual", or even "normal" (what is normal?) I'm sure that eventually one common term will emerge.

 

[steve_sordy]

So that’s over 2 weeks and you have not safety checked your bike??
Tut tut Mr Sordy

Tut tut indeed! I hang my head in shame!

It is a useful reminder that things do not stay the same on your beloved bike. Chains and brake pads wear out, air pressure in tyres and suspension changes also.

I accept the admonishment.

 

[pegnose]

Great explanations, Steve, thank you so much!!

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I also checked the chain length and it was OK (0.33% at 575m). That is better than most of my 9 and 10-speed clockwork bikes.

The shifting is now spot on and I'm about to go check it under load.

PS: The chain length on a Large Focus Jam2 is 120 links.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

For what it's worth the chain length on my medium Jam2 plus carbon, 11 speed XT, is 118 links. And of course you can't buy the 126L 701 Shimano chain in the states anymore. They boxes are now only marked 116L. Shimano used to offer 116L or 126L in the the 701. I'll probably have to run an extra pair of links along with two quick links. Never had a quick link fail so not a bad option I guess. I did find 126L available on AliExpress but it's not boxed and looks suspicious. I did order one to try it out.

 

[nepper]

Hello! I got a Focus JAM2 few days ago and noticed this same effect of rear axle loosening. I stripped the whole Novatec rear hub apart and probably figured out why the rear axle is coming loose. Hub bearings are cartridge bearings as usual but the freehub uses Shimano style cup/cone bearings. Mine were adjusted horribly too tight and that can cause unnecessary unwinding torque to the rear axle.

Seals are utter rubbish on this Novatec hub. Under 100 km toltal distance in damp Finnish conditions and freehub bearings are starting to rust! Service them before it's too late!

 

[highpeakrider]

Wonder if that’s why I’ve never had issues as mine has Deore hubs, and my winter wheels Mavic.

 

[nepper]

There's a good chance that these Novatec rear hubs are the culprit. Threadlock will "cure" the issue of unwinding but the freehub is still suffering from poor adjustment. Grease used in the hub is also poor suited for the job. Corrosion resistance is nonexistent if rusting starts in few days (no pressure wash was used). I hope that SuperLube on freehub bearings and Slickoleum on pawls will do a better job.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I didn't catch mine before it became very rough and only noticed it when I was lubing the chain before a ride. The removable race part was badly damage and I did try to repair it for use as a back up since that part doesn't seem to be available from Novatec. But the replacement I found is so much better with 3 catridge bearing in the freehub and the std all steel driver and 5 pawls. I am currently using a CF set of wheels given to me since they are about 1 1/2 lbs lighter with a 29" up front. I can see that the aluminum cassette driver is starting to gouge and I've installed a XT cassette since 6 of the gears are on carriers that better spread out the load. Only a steel cassette driver in this type of design seems to hold up to ebike torque over time. DT Swiss non-pawl wheels might be another good option.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Just a quick update. Focus is sending me a new rear hub along with a new carbon frame (decal cracking). 4 weeks from Germany

 

[nepper]

I hope you got something other than same Novatec low end rubbish. D462SB-B12 for example uses the same hub shell but it has a better freehub assembly. Easy to swap internals / replace entire hub. I threw my hub to bin and replaced it with Shimano XT microspline hub. I got good excuse to upgrade to 12 speed setup as well

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I hope you got something other than same Novatec low end rubbish. D462SB-B12 for example uses the same hub shell but it has a better freehub assembly. Easy to swap internals / replace entire hub. I threw my hub to bin and replaced it with Shimano XT microspline hub. I got good excuse to upgrade to 12 speed setup as well

While waiting on Focus I was able to buy the cassette driver assy from AliExpress for $72 (D462SB-B12). It has the 5 pawls and 3 cartridge bearings. But I'm currently using a lighter carbon wheel assy (Exile speed tuned)someone gave me (29/27.5). The downside of those is that the cassette driver is aluminum so I put an XT cassette on and keep the nut torqued to try to minimize the gouging. The Novatec is pretty good in that respect with the steel driver...no wear at all but the D162SB-12 has those crappy bearings. I agree that the 462 is so much better. It was impossible to find that one with 5 pawls in the USA but I finally lucked out finding it on AliExpress. So it's my backup hub now. It's about 1 1/4 lbs more than the CF wheel assy I have. I'm hoping that one is durable enough over time. I'm sure Focus will just send me a D162 hub.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Wow that's pretty bad. Maybe too much to repair by sanding. I think mine failed because the assembly was loose and I caught it right away but only the small removeable cup part was damaged in a small area. While I did buy that 462 freewheel assy and it fit I never really used it because someone gave me a set of CF wheels that were much lighter and had the 29" for the front. I keep the raceface wheels as backups now.

 

[downhilllister]

I did research on a replacement. But it kept on coming back 462 not suitable.///Got it sorted, New parts on there way.

 

[steve_sordy]

Still no problems with my original Novatec Hub at 2200 miles.

 

[Gary]

Still no problems with my original Novatec Hub at 2200 miles.

I have around 4500 miles on a set of Novatec hub wheels that have never been serviced.
No Hope hub has never lasted 1000 (and I've owned well over 20 of 'em) without either needing new bearings or something failing catastrophically.
Did you know Hope actually stands for "sHhiny anOdoized shit for People who enjoy sErvicing stuff far too often"

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I did research on a replacement. But it kept on coming back 462 not suitable.///Got it sorted, New parts on there way.

Did you finally find that it was compatible? There are two types, one with 3 pawls and one with 5 pawls and the latter is what you want. It dropped right into the the 162 hub and worked and fitted perfectly for me. Maybe the 3 pawl doesn't match up to the inner toothed ring?

 

[downhilllister]

Did you finally find that it was compatible? There are two types, one with 3 pawls and one with 5 pawls and the latter is what you want. It dropped right into the the 162 hub and worked and fitted perfectly for me. Maybe the 3 pawl doesn't match up to the inner toothed ring?

Yep Hunted down what you bought of Ali Express and placed the order, Should be up and running soon. Thanks for your help. Its a bit of a nightmare sorting thought Ali and e-bay, can end up with the wrong parts if not paying attention

 

[downhilllister]

Wow that's pretty bad. Maybe too much to repair by sanding. I think mine failed because the assembly was loose and I caught it right away but only the small removeable cup part was damaged in a small area. While I did buy that 462 freewheel assy and it fit I never really used it because someone gave me a set of CF wheels that were much lighter and had the 29" for the front. I keep the raceface wheels as backups now.

I will say, over the first year the bike shop adjusted the bearing 3 times. Maybe im hard on the bike. Its not a down hill bike, but i do challenge myself.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Yep Hunted down what you bought of Ali Express and placed the order, Should be up and running soon. Thanks for your help. Its a bit of a nightmare sorting thought Ali and e-bay, can end up with the wrong parts if not paying attention

Yes I looked thru many many listed from Europe and US (no much information in the US) and ebay and after weeks of looking I was ready to give up when I placed my very first order on Aliexpress. It took a while to ship to me but was worth it.

 

[Marquez93]

Yep Hunted down what you bought of Ali Express and placed the order, Should be up and running soon. Thanks for your help. Its a bit of a nightmare sorting thought Ali and e-bay, can end up with the wrong parts if not paying attention

Hi, Im jumping in late to this string but i have a Novatec Freehub issue and cant find a 12speed Shimano freehub replacement for my Novatec D162, 12x148mm Boost hub. Could you point me in the right direction please?
Thanks

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

You need to find the d462 version of this hub which will have 3 cartridge bearings and hopefully 5 pawls. I found my 11 speed version on aliexpress but maybe someone here can point you in the right direction.

This one is 3 bearings, microspline, only 3 pawl, 12 speed freehub only: 50.98￡ |NOVATEC Micro Spline Freehub cassette body for D462SB|Bicycle Hubs| - AliExpress

This one is 4 pawl but maybe only 2 bearings in the freehub but for the entire hub assy. 50.98￡ |NOVATEC Micro Spline Freehub cassette body for D462SB|Bicycle Hubs| - AliExpress

Lots of ways to get the wrong part but the 462 will fit into your 162 which is what I did for my older bike before I went with DT Swiss.I found one that was on ebay but sold a while back for 12 speed, 462 freewheel assy but could not find another there. The other option is to just go with a much better wheel assy like dt swi22 350 hybrid or a Hope product.

 

[Marquez93]

You need to find the d462 version of this hub which will have 3 cartridge bearings and hopefully 5 pawls. I found my 11 speed version on aliexpress but maybe someone here can point you in the right direction.

This one is 3 bearings, microspline, only 3 pawl, 12 speed freehub only: 50.98￡ |NOVATEC Micro Spline Freehub cassette body for D462SB|Bicycle Hubs| - AliExpress

This one is 4 pawl but maybe only 2 bearings in the freehub but for the entire hub assy. 50.98￡ |NOVATEC Micro Spline Freehub cassette body for D462SB|Bicycle Hubs| - AliExpress

Lots of ways to get the wrong part but the 462 will fit into your 162 which is what I did for my older bike before I went with DT Swiss.I found one that was on ebay but sold a while back for 12 speed, 462 freewheel assy but could not find another there. The other option is to just go with a much better wheel assy like dt swi22 350 hybrid or a Hope product.

Thanks for the reply, what worries me is the 148/142 aspect of the sizing, what does that refer to?
And why is this so difficult to resolve when anything else for a bike is easy... Don't try with that one. Lol.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Thanks for the reply, what worries me is the 148/142 aspect of the sizing, what does that refer to?
And why is this so difficult to resolve when anything else for a bike is easy... Don't try with that one. Lol.

148mm is just the boost hub spacing and all modern mtn bikes are at least 148mm at the back. Novatec has so many hubs that it can be confusing. If you are just looking for a new freewheel assy, like I was, then you need either a 162 or 462, same family. The 162 uses those crappy individual ball bearings and races and the 462 uses cartridge bearings. The 462 I have is not micro spline, is 11-speed steel cassette driver, 5 pawl and 3 cartridge bearings in the free wheel assy (2 more in the hub itself). But the pawls never really engaged all that well and many have had issues with the pawls and the wire ring that holds them in. The DT Swiss hub and ratchet assy in the 350 was a huge upgrade for me and also comes with a steel cassette driver (not aluminum that easily gets gouged up from ebike torque). I opted for the 350 hybrid model hub which comes with the steel cassette driver and a beefed up hub for made for ebikes. It's such a simple but robust design that I don't have to worry about pawls or bearings failing. I still have my old boost Novatec wheelset and will probably sell it soon since I never intend to use it and have another backup wheel set just in case.

https://www.google.com/search?q=boost+hub+spacing&rlz=1C1FHFK_enUS945US945&oq=boost+hub+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i512l9.4710j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[Marquez93]

That's a very full reply, thank you