Fixing the leather on saddles?

[Swiss Roll]

Is there a good way to reattach leather that is coming off underneath a saddle?
I live in a high rise, so i tend to manhandle the back end of my bike by gripping it under the saddle. But it seems to be a thing that happens to a lot of saddles, regardless of gripping underneath (ooh, er, missus).

 

[steve_sordy]

I have no leather saddle specific knowledge to offer. But if I was faced with the problem....
I would first try to replicate the original fixing method. But if the stitching has gone, then unless you can find a saddler to re-stitch it that leaves glue. The choice of glue will be important, but again when it comes to leather I have no specific advice to offer.

Although I must have had a leather saddle when I was a kid (weren't they all leather 60+ years ago?) I have never had a leather saddle on my mtbs. I have had the surface peeling off the usual mtb saddle, which is unsightly and the kiss of doom to a saddle. But glue works well for a while, provided you use something that remains flexible after setting (like PVA). On a much-loved but ageing saddle I even tried Gaffer tape. Despite being unsightly, it too worked well for a time. But the seams in my shorts would catch on a tape edge as they slid about and would slowly roll up the tape.

 

[Swiss Roll]

I have no leather saddle specific knowledge to offer. But if I was faced with the problem....
I would first try to replicate the original fixing method. But if the stitching has gone, then unless you can find a saddler to re-stitch it that leaves glue. The choice of glue will be important, but again when it comes to leather I have no specific advice to offer.

Although I must have had a leather saddle when I was a kid (weren't they all leather 60+ years ago?) I have never had a leather saddle on my mtbs. I have had the surface peeling off the usual mtb saddle, which is unsightly and the kiss of doom to a saddle. But glue works well for a while, provided you use something that remains flexible after setting (like PVA). On a much-loved but ageing saddle I even tried Gaffer tape. Despite being unsightly, it too worked well for a time. But the seams in my shorts would catch on a tape edge as they slid about and would slowly roll up the tape.

Well, I guess its not real leather, it's a sella italia x3. I was just wondering about general fixing tips.

 

[The Hodge]

Gorilla Glue ..clean the area as best you can first

 

[KennyB]

Epoxy.

 

[steve_sordy]

I have now found a good method of fixing a saddle where the fabric on the shoulders is parting, either because the stitching has worn or pulled through the fabric. Usually, the foam inner is on display as well. If it is ignored it will get worse quite rapidly and then it's new saddle time.

Tools required:
# Strong thread in matching or contrasting colour. (I used my wife's quilting thread, seems to have been strong enough).
# Strong needle. Not a big one, just not one of the teeny tiny things that look as though they might be used for eyelid surgery. Straight is OK, but curved may work better if you have one (I didn't).
# Pair of pliers. To hold the needle and to force it through the multiple layers of fabric.
# PVA adhesive. This is white when wet but dries clear and stays flexible.
# Small brush. This is to push the glue underneath the outer layers and in between the layer and the foam interior. Also for coating the stitched area afterwards.

That list may be enough by itself to give you a good idea of what to do.

Tips:
# Pull off a good length of thread and thread it though the needle eye. Then tie off both ends into a knot so that you will be pulling a double thread though every stitch hole. Leave at least half an inch loose after the knot.
# Coat the inside of the saddle with the PVA adhesive as far in as you can peel back the loose edges. Get plenty in there.
# Let the first stitch start inside the saddle and leave the half inch tail inside and covered in the PVA. Yes, your fingers will get sticky.
# Loop each stitch around both layers you are joining, maintain tension on the thread to keep the layers closed.
# Proceed around the open wound until you have closed it, then do a few stitches back.
# Cut off the thread and then give the whole stitched area a coating of PVA adhesive. It will look manky when wet, but the glue will dry clear and will have waterproofed the thread and glued the whole lot together. You won't see the glue when dry, but you will be able to feel it as a slightly grippy surface that will wear off rapidly.

Once you have assembled your tools, it will probably take twice as long to do the job as it has taken you to read this, depending upon the size of the job. It is very much worth it. And MUCH better than using gaffer tape!

 

[irie]

I think a flexible shoe adhesive would be easiest.

 

[steve_sordy]

I think a flexible shoe adhesive would be easiest.

I'm sure that shoe adhesive is very strong, very possibly much stronger than PVA. I may be assuming wrongly, but your use of the word "easiest" makes me think you mean no stitching. But stitches will still be required. Why so?

You still have to close the tear / open wound. If you just use glue without putting any tension on the tear before it dries you will, end up freezing it in an open position. The edges will be subject to friction from your shorts and subsequent rolling back of the edge, despite the glue.

The other benefit of using PVA glue is that it takes a while to set, so you can stitch through it easily and secure the open wound before it sets. Therefore, the setting time of the adhesive is an important factor. I don't know the setting time of PVA adhesive, but my last repair was in the early afternoon and I rode the bike the following day, so I guess less than 10 hours. I would not use a contact adhesive or anything that set quickly (minutes rather than hours) as it would not allow sufficient time to do the stitching. PVA is also water soluble when wet and washes off your hands nice and easily, no solvents required.

But of course, if no stitching is required then an instant or quick grab adhesive would be the way to go.

 

[RustyIron]

Once you have assembled your tools, it will probably take twice as long to do the job as it has taken you to read this, depending upon the size of the job. It is very much worth it.

Personally, I've never owned a leather saddle. Back when I was a youngster, we rode whatever we had and our butts became as tough as leather. But nowadays I'm a little more delicate. My latest saddle is made out of the same foam that's used in your top-shelf running shoes. There is no "cover" over the foam. But there are a couple patches of what looks like gaffers tape to provide friction so you're not sliding all over the place.

Back to sewing leather...
I borrowed some of my wife's needle's made for sewing sails. Don't ask me why she has needles for sewing sails. I suppose they'll come in handy if we ever sell the house to start our new lives as pirates on the high seas. Attached is a short instructional article I made for sewing leather belts. It's probably only informative for bike saddles if you intend to kill a cow and make your saddle from scratch.

 

[irie]

I'm sure that shoe adhesive is very strong, ...

An adhesive will work fine as long as (a) the adhesive is at least as strong as the strongest of the two surfaces to be joined and (b) the two surfaces are held in place long enough for the adhesive to set.

 

[The Hodge]

Sod that ..I'd just buy a new one ..

 

[steve_sordy]

Sod that ..I'd just buy a new one ..

At the rate I fall off and damage the shoulders of the saddle, I might bankrupt myself if I didn't repair the damage!