Fair warning about ordering an H30 from Jenson

[Kamill]

I specifically ordered an H30 from Jenson because it's listed as shipping with the MT6100 brakes. I planned to throw on 6120 calipers and call it a day. I verified with their staff both over chat and on the phone that the H30 will have those brakes. They assured me that because of a part shortage Orbea was sending them bikes with the 6100 brakes. I received my H30 over the weekend with the MT410 brakes which is a bummer. At this time they are still advertising the bike as shipping with the MT6100 brakes but have since told me the latest shipment from Orbea all have MT410.

I think we can all agree the MT410 brakes don't belong on a 40+ lbs bike. I'll be replacing them with 6120 brakes but not looking forward to swapping the brake hoses (410's use the larger diameter hose). Hoping I can just thread the cables together with a screw and pull through the frame without dropping the motor as some people here have suggested.

One bonus was I got the SC-EM800 display instead of the base junction cable.

 

[Rod B.]

I specifically ordered an H30 from Jenson because it's listed as shipping with the MT6100 brakes. I planned to throw on 6120 calipers and call it a day. I verified with their staff both over chat and on the phone that the H30 will have those brakes. They assured me that because of a part shortage Orbea was sending them bikes with the 6100 brakes. I received my H30 over the weekend with the MT410 brakes which is a bummer. At this time they are still advertising the bike as shipping with the MT6100 brakes but have since told me the latest shipment from Orbea all have MT410.

I think we can all agree the MT410 brakes don't belong on a 40+ lbs bike. I'll be replacing them with 6120 brakes but not looking forward to swapping the brake hoses (410's use the larger diameter hose). Hoping I can just thread the cables together with a screw and pull through the frame without dropping the motor as some people here have suggested.

One bonus was I got the SC-EM800 display instead of the base junction cable.

Kamill,

That's a bummer about the brakes. I installed Shimano 6120 four piston calipers on my buddy's M20 Rise which came with the Deore two piston calipers. The 6120 calipers were a nice upgrade, along with some used 203mm rotors I had. He doesn't have a lot of spare cash laying around, so we kept the stock brake levers and BH59 brake hose on his bike. He hasn't had any braking issues with the combination.

I find that the 180mm rotors which come on the Rise are not up to the task. They get too hot when doing a lot of hard braking on technical trails. If you plan on riding your bike on technical trails, you might want to think about upgrading the rotors to 203mm brake rotors (Magnetic for the rear and standard, non-magnetic rotor for the front ) and also two, 180mm to 203mm caliper adapters (Shimano part #SM-MA-F203PPM) which will work on both the front fork and chain stay, post mounts. I started with a 203mm on the front, which worked really well. I later switched to a 203mm rotor (magnetic) on the rear which improved braking even more.

Before doing the BH50 to BH90 hose swap, I would suggest buying an EP8 motor, spindle nut lock ring tool (54mm outside diameter and 16 notches) such as the Park Tool LRT-2 or similar and have it on hand before attempting the install. I say this because there's always the possibility the new brake hose may hang up where it transitions from the downtube and back up over the top of the motor and out the top of the motor mount/bottom bracket shell. The swap may go smoothly or it may not. You may need to drop the motor in order to gain access to the brake hose if it does hang up. I've had it go both ways on the Rise's I have worked on.

 

[Kamill]

Yep I do have 203mm ice tech rotors waiting to go on with the 6120 brakes. Not a fan of the levers and parts were too hard to find to piece a kit together while keeping the brake hose the same so Jenson offered me the 6100 brakes at half price. I thought I needed the 180 to 203mm adapters for front and rear but the Bomber Z2 on the H30 is a 160 post mount fork. I ended up ordering SM-MA-F203 (160mm to 203mm) for the fork. Good tip on the spindle nut lock ring tool, I have the LRT-2 on the way just in case. What kind of screw did you use to thread the brake hoses together? I'm thinking it can't be that long so it can clear all the bends without getting stuck.

 

[Mike C]

I gotta say something about this warning about ordering from Jenson. The problem is dealer-wide with component changes. This is besides the point that both Orbea and Jenson now list the H30 as having MT410 brakes. There is a disclaimer on both websites stating that components can change at anytime without notice. Speaking with a rep from Jenson about the Rise range extender I came to understand that what Orbea lists on the manifest, which is the only thing the dealers have to refer to, is not always what arrives. Jenson shouldn't be bashed because they have no control over changes Orbea has to make last minute because of transportation or availability issues. The parts shortages and other supply chain issues are a PITA for sure. I couldn't even get a Shimano cassette for one of my eBikes - had to buy a used one on eBay. We need to be understanding about these things until supplies stabilize.

 

[iJak]

Interesting - if I didn't even read this thread I wouldn't have know... surprisingly I did get the m6100 2 pot brake set (lever + caliper). I purchased the h30 from Jenson also. I completely agree with Mike C, not really jenson's fault due to parts shortage.

Btw h30 doesnt come with the junction box, comes with the display non-color display Shimano SC-E7000, but if you got upgraded to the
SC-EM800 color display, that's a nice bonus.

 

[Kamill]

Jenson updated their product page to list M410 brakes since this thread was created. When I ordered my bike, it said "In stock" on their website. My assumption was the bike was already in their warehouse so when they confirmed it comes with the M6100 brakes I figured it was because they already had eyes on it. I can't fault them for shipping a bike with brakes that were already installed by Orbea, this post was just to bring attention to anyone else in my position. I could have ordered a Rise from Contender or Mike's Bikes and received it earlier than Jenson with the 410 brakes.

Jenson did actually list the H30 as having the junction box on their product page, which is now listed as SC-E7000.

 

[Rod B.]

Yep I do have 203mm ice tech rotors waiting to go on with the 6120 brakes. Not a fan of the levers and parts were too hard to find to piece a kit together while keeping the brake hose the same so Jenson offered me the 6100 brakes at half price. I thought I needed the 180 to 203mm adapters for front and rear but the Bomber Z2 on the H30 is a 160 post mount fork. I ended up ordering SM-MA-F203 (160mm to 203mm) for the fork. Good tip on the spindle nut lock ring tool, I have the LRT-2 on the way just in case. What kind of screw did you use to thread the brake hoses together? I'm thinking it can't be that long so it can clear all the bends without getting stuck.

Kamill,

I do not recall the exact size of the screw I used. I went down to Home Depot with a piece of brake hose and started testing the metric machine screws they had in the gray bins for fit. The length of the fine thread machine screw I bought was one inch. Make sure the screw threads tightly into both brake hoses and then test pull the two hoses to make sure they don't separate.

You're situation is a little tricky. Shimano BH-59 brake hose has an internal diameter of 2.3mm. Shimano BH-90 brake hose has an internal diameter of 2.1mm. I would buy a screw that threads tightly to the 2.3mm BH90 brake hose. This means you'll have to force the screw a bit to get it to thread into the smaller diameter BH59 brake hose. I would heat some water in a pan and dip the brake hose into the hot water and temporarily soften the hose up to make the process of threading easier.

You want to use a machine screw similar to the one pictured. The screw's head style doesn't matter, i.e. slotted, phillips, hex cap, etc. since you'll be cutting the head off. Just make sure the screw has all thread and both hoses thread snuggly together. Both the BH59 and BH90 hose have the same outer diameter.

If the brake hose does hang up or they pull apart mid removal, not a problem, you'll just need to drop the motor. It's an easy process and doesn't take long.

Here is a previous post I made on procedures for dropping the motor on a Rise Carbon. I've modified it as best as possible for the Rise Hydro. I have not dropped the motor yet on a Rise Hydro. I believe everything is the same. I've attached the torque spec diagram sheet for the Rise Aluminum.

NOTE: On the Rise Carbon, to lower the motor, you must gain access and remove all six of the hex head bolts. Unfortunately, one of the bolts on the drive side cannot be fully removed with the chainring on. This is because it hits the chainring when it is backed out and cannot be fully unthreaded which will prevent the removal of the motor. The chainring must be removed to remove the bolt. It's possible to remove the bolt without removing the chainring. You'll have to get creative with tooling and you must force the bolt a bit past the chainring. I've tried this method and ended up damaging the finish on the bolt. Play it safe and remove the chainring. I have not removed a Rise Hydro motor and do not know if the motor mounting bolt issue also occurs with the Rise Hydro frame. It may not be an issue. If somebody knows, please let me know so I can modify the motor removal procedures for the Rise Hydro.

Dropping the motor:

1) Start by placing the bike on a bicycle stand. Place a stool/box beneath the Ep8 motor. Adjust the height of the bike stand so that the motor on your Rise is a few inches above the stool. I like to drop the motor only a few inches when I replace my brake hose or dropper/shift cable housing. I do not disconnect any wires and I lower the motor onto a padded stool which I place several inches beneath the motor. There is enough slack in the wiring to do this. The motor's bottom is slightly uneven. I use a towel placed on the stool as padding to help stabilize the motor and prevent it from rolling off of the stool while I work. The whole process of removing the motor takes me a little less than ten minutes to do. I do not remove the wiring because rubber seals get old, dry and tear easily. The possibility exists that if I remove a wire, I may damage a seal/rubber boot on the wire and allow corrosion to enter into the wiring ports.

2) Remove the drive side crank arm by loosening the two crank arm screws and completely remove the crank arm end cap. Pull the crank arm off. Remove the upper plastic part of the chain guide by loosening and removing the small hex bolt securing it to the aluminum arm. Take care not to lose the small nut on the backside of the chain guide. It's very small and will fall out when you remove the hex screw.

3) I wrap a velcro strap around the rear brake lever and lock the rear brake. The locked rear brake keeps the front chainring from turning when you go to loosen the chainring nut. If you cannot lock your rear brake, i.e. the brake caliper has been removed, you can use a chain whip tool to hold the chainring securely. You can also have somebody hold the rear wheel while you loosen the chainring spindle nut. I use Park Tool's "LRT-2 Shimano Steps Lock Ring Socket Tool" to loosen the chainring spindle nut. There are other lock ring socket tools available for sale on Amazon that work equally well. With the chainring secured from movement, place your lock ring socket tool on the chainring spindle nut and turn it "Clockwise" to loosen and remove the spindle nut. Note that the shaft is reverse thread and to loosen the nut you must turn the nut clockwise to loosen and counter-clockwise to tighten.

4) Pull the derailleur swing arm forward to un-tension the chain. Remove the chain from the chainring. With the chainring nut removed, pull the chainring off the drive spindle with a slight pull. Once the chainring is removed, you now will have access to all six motor mount hex bolts. Remove all six hex bolts.

5) Jiggle the motor loose and "Slowly" lower the motor down a few inches and onto a stool placed several inches below the motor. Make sure the motor doesn't fall off the stool. There are three aluminum spacers used with the six bolts to mount the motor to the frame. One or more of the spacers may fall out when you remove the motor from the frame. Two of the spacers will have a small machined shoulder. These two spacers mount inside the frame at the front of the motor. The third spacer is flat on both sides and mounts at the back of the motor, non-drive side.

Note: The diagram and torque specs seen pictured below are for the Rise Hydro. The motor mount spacers in the Hydro diagram look similar in configuration to what is used on the Rise carbon. I believe they are the same however, I've not yet removed a Rise Hydro motor and cannot confirm they are the same as the Rise Carbon. Therefore, pay attention to motor mount spacer differences and where they are used on the Rise Hydro. Please let me know if they are different so I can reflect this in the motor removal procedures.

6) With the motor lowered, you now have access to all brake hose, cable housing and electrical connections. Inspect the shifter and dropper cable housing for wear. If they look bad, now's the time to replace them. Also check your wiring to make sure none of the insulation has been rubbed off from vibration. If so, give the wire a protective wrap with some electrical tape.

7) The angle where the lower downtube opening meets at the frame motor mount/bottom bracket shell is sharp. You want your brake hose and dropper/derailleur cable housings where they exit the downtube and make the bend upwards and over the top of the motor to be snug, but not so snug that the brake hose and cable housings will chafe and rub against the downtube opening. You also don't want so much slack in the brake hose and cable housing that when you re-insert the motor, the motor mashes the excess slack in the hose and housing against the frame and or motor wiring. This will cause rubbing and chafing on the hose and cable housing and also the motor wiring. I like to give the brake hose and cable housing a finger's width of slack at the downtube and the top of the frame where the motor will mount.

The goal is to make sure the hose/housing doesn't have so much slack that when you reinstall the motor, you end up smashing or kinking the brake hose or cable housing against the top of the motor mounting plate and cause it to chafe on the motor wiring. At the same time, you don't want the hose/housing to be pulled so tightly that you inadvertently pinch/chafe the brake hose or cable housing as it bends tightly out of the downtube and up over the motor. A finger's width of slack works.

With your fingers, reach up into the wiring, brake hose and cable housings. Make sure that everything is sorted so that a brake hose or cable housing isn't inadvertently laying on/crossing over a wire and will eventually cause the wire to chafe. The same also goes for the brake hose and cable housings. You want to organize the brake hose, cable housings and wiring to prevent pinching or chafing.

8) Reached up into the frame and make sure the front two motor spacers are pushed all the way into their respective sockets at the front frame motor mounts. Lift the motor up into place. You will have to wiggle the motor a little bit to line up the first few bolts. The rear non-drive side aluminum spacer can be fussy to get into place. I've found it much easier to hold it against the motor and slide both the motor and spacer into position at the same time. Apply a small dab of blue thread locker onto each of the six bolts and install. Do not tighten the bolts until all of the bolts have been threaded into place. Torque the bolts to specification as listed in the "Blue Paper" Rise Hydro owner's manual. See diagram below.

8) With a rag, clean the splined motor spindle. Check for cracks near the hole in the spindle. Clean the spines on the chainring. Place a light coating of lubricant on the spindle splines and chainring splines. Slide the chainring all the way onto the drive spindle. Install the chainring lock ring nut and finger tighten counter-clockwise. With your lock ring tool, turn the nut counter-clockwise to tighten the lock ring to torque specifications, 35-45 Nm.

Note: E13 has a technical service bulletin (TSB # 157, EP8 motor spindle inspection) procedure for checking the spindle for cracks.

https://support.ethirteen.com/hc/en-us/articles/4408312390043-TSB-157-Shimano-EP8-Spindle-Inspection-in-Conjunction-with-e-thirteen-e-spec-Cranks

9) Re-install your crankarm and upper chainguide arm. I use blue thread locker on the two clamp bolts and tighten to torque specifications. I also use a very small amount of blue thread locker on the threaded crank arm fixing cap.

Note: E13 has a technical service bulletin (TSB # 156, Alloy crank arms) in regards to installation and proper torque on E13 alloy crank arms.

TSB #156 - e*spec Shimano™ alloy crank tech update

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN #156.2 e*spec Shimano™ alloy crank tech update Product(s) included: e*thirteen e*spec Shimano EP8 alloy cranks. Abstract e*spec Shimano EP8/EP800 alloy cranks were dev...

support.ethirteen.com

10) Install the chain and lower the chain guide top piece into position and tighten.

11) Go ride and never buy a couch.

 

[mvtomas]

For my H15, Jenson listed 6120 brakes (4 piston Deore) and came with 6100 (2 piston). Noticed they changed the brake specs right after I asked about that. The 6100s and the 180 rotors are inadequate for the extended descents I ride. Already put a 203 rotor on front and that helped. There was not enough slack in the rear brake line to put a 203 on and I tried to pull a little more line out. Looks that will have to wait until I upgrade to 4 pistons.

 

[Kevlasultanpus]

I specifically ordered an H30 from Jenson because it's listed as shipping with the MT6100 brakes. I planned to throw on 6120 calipers and call it a day. I verified with their staff both over chat and on the phone that the H30 will have those brakes. They assured me that because of a part shortage Orbea was sending them bikes with the 6100 brakes. I received my H30 over the weekend with the MT410 brakes which is a bummer. At this time they are still advertising the bike as shipping with the MT6100 brakes but have since told me the latest shipment from Orbea all have MT410.

I think we can all agree the MT410 brakes don't belong on a 40+ lbs bike. I'll be replacing them with 6120 brakes but not looking forward to swapping the brake hoses (410's use the larger diameter hose). Hoping I can just thread the cables together with a screw and pull through the frame without dropping the motor as some people here have suggested.

One bonus was I got the SC-EM800 display instead of the base junction cable.

Here downunder ...the 2022 H30 was going to be AUS $8999.... then orbea raised to AUS $9999...I just had to suck it up as they are so hard to get. Like you it gets the display which i really like..minimalist but functional.