Ebikes and keeping HR down

[iainc]

Have ridden regular bikes on and off road for decades, however due to a recently diagnosed heart problem, which isn’t going to go away, I am looking at a full suss ebike to replace my MTBs. Basically I need to keep my HR in ‘sweet spot’, so not exceeding 85% of max, as doing so is now higher risk. I had a demo on a Focus Jam2 the other day and my average HR was definitely a good bit lower over a 2 hr ride, and the peaks, which are the problems, were smoother out.

Any experiences around HR control in this way ?

 

[miPbiP]

I've a friend who uses his ebike for this as part of his training program.

 

[33red]

I would suggest you get an easy gear. An Ebike is about 20 more pounds. Many are sold without an easy gear, it makes no sense. I bought my first Ebike 6 months ago the cassette was 10S 11-36 i had it swithced to 11-42. Also if you want lots of gear range get a Yamaha it takes 2 front rings. On my Haibike/Yamaha i use the 44T to pedal to the trails and back. I use the 32T in the woods. An easy gear is better for
- A your transmission
- B not draining your battery
- C your condition
- D your knees

 

[Gary]

Have ridden regular bikes on and off road for decades, however due to a recently diagnosed heart problem, which isn’t going to go away, I am looking at a full suss ebike to replace my MTBs. Basically I need to keep my HR in ‘sweet spot’, so not exceeding 85% of max, as doing so is now higher risk. I had a demo on a Focus Jam2 the other day and my average HR was definitely a good bit lower over a 2 hr ride, and the peaks, which are the problems, were smoother out.

Any experiences around HR control in this way ?

Hi Iain.

Yeah. it's much easier to keep your HR down. Far far easier than a road bike.
As I explained over on Ebikehaterworld.com just be careful on descents. Especially demanding technical pumpy/lumpy type. it's not pedalling that raises my HR to max. it's upper body effort and leg squats fast descending over technical terrain requires. I could reach my max HR with no chain on the right descent. And I'm not unfit.

when you finally get the bike learn to use the modes as much as you'd use gearing on a regular mtb. when the gradient rises switch up an assist level and when it lowers switch down.
Obviously go everywhere in BOOOOOOST for the first few rides like everyone does though

 

[miPbiP]

As I explained over on Ebikehaterworld.com ...

lol.

 

[Gary]

TBF you have to be pretty unfit/unwell/out of shape* or be riding extremely steep climbs to ever need a double chainset on any decent midmotor Emtb.
A double and F/mech also puts more stress on the chain if you ever shift under load.
32x11 will take you past the UK 15mph assist limit easily without even reaching a high cadence
A 44t is only of any use if you derestrict it and ride at 25mph+
(which BTW will raise your HR quite a bit. The motor helps but it doesn't miraculously dismiss wind resistance)


*or other condition

 

[outerlimits]

Sounds like i’ve got much the same problem.
I have heart failure and have been given the same advice by my Cardiologist. I did push myself too much and my heart failure got worse, so pay attention to what the Doc says.

I got a 2018 Specialized Turbo Levo. I got this bike because the motor is so tuneable with the Specialized mission control app. But I use the BLEvo app as it gives more options to tune the bike to my needs. BLEvo also has the ability to hook up to chest strap heart rate monitors and the Apple Watch Heart rate. The app can then adjust the power automatically to keep you HR below the level you set. I have not used this feature as I don’t like chest straps or have an Apple Watch. I use a Garmin watch to monitor my HR and set an alarm on that. My motor has has 90nm torque and peak power of 788w and uses a 32t front ring, and 11-42 rear cassette. I find this plenty of power and gearing to keep my HR below my 85% of max. I have not de restricted my bike to power on after the 25kmh power cut off as I have not had the need. The transition from power to non power is virtually seamless and with the sprag clutch disconnecting the motor, you don’t have to pedal the motor around with no power. It’s a very natural feeling. I also don’t believe in derestricting ebikes.
You can blow up going down hill even not peddling, but the same can happen on a lighter non powered Mtb. Just have to not go as hard as you used to. The beauty with the power assist is the small to medium hills become flat and this means your HR keeps you in the lower HR zones longer which is a win for keeping the stress off your heart.

Hope you find a bike to suit your needs continue to get out and enjoy riding.

 

[Mikerb]

A lot of good advice in the posts a bove ...and I would add that those of us of advanced years together with others much younger but not athletically fit ( and lets face it most modern sedentary jobs don't help!) it is not really good practise to deliberately or inadvertently push your heart rate too high. So I don't think using the Ebike assistance wisely as advised above is just restricted to riders with known heart conditions or other physical injuries.
I admit to not really appreciating one point that Gary made regarding the potential to push your heart rate on fast technical descents!! OOPS.....I had noticed the " rush" at the end of the descent but had not associated it with an elevated heart rate for some reason.

 

[Gary]

I admit to not really appreciating one point that Gary made regarding the potential to push your heart rate on fast technical descents!! OOPS.....I had noticed the " rush" at the end of the descent but had not associated it with an elevated heart rate for some reason.

ALL my max HRs are on descents NOT climbs when i ride mtb (Emtb or regular mtb) and as high as my Road max HR when climbing/sprinting flat out.

 

[Mikerb]

ALL my max HRs are on descents NOT climbs when i ride mtb (Emtb or regular mtb) and as high as my Road max HR when climbing/sprinting flat out.

I will go slower!

 

[Gary]

it's not strictly about going slower.
it's about how much your heart is working.
going slower (descending) can make your heart work harder too as it takes a lot of effort to brake and when on the brakes your body and the bikes suspension often stiffen.
what I'm saying here is if you have a heart problem pay attention to your HR the whole ride. not just the climbs.

 

[outerlimits]

Now, I pretty much just say screw it, and charge downhill and have maximum fun. The climb back up I use to recover. It really takes it out of you and you can reach max HR fairly quickly while going down even not peddling.
I’m only maxing my HR out half the time, not all the time, so the ebike is still great.
I’m here for a good time, not a long time.

 

[33red]

TBF you have to be pretty unfit/unwell/out of shape* or be riding extremely steep climbs to ever need a double chainset on any decent midmotor Emtb.
A double and F/mech also puts more stress on the chain if you ever shift under load.
32x11 will take you past the UK 15mph assist limit easily without even reaching a high cadence
A 44t is only of any use if you derestrict it and ride at 25mph+
(which BTW will raise your HR quite a bit. The motor helps but it doesn't miraculously dismiss wind resistance)


*or other condition

I would agree in your world. Here in Quebec i ride legal, as sold, but we are allowed 20 MPH(32KM/H). I do not have a car so i often pedal 30 minutes to the trails play there 1-3hrs than pedal my way back. My fatbike is also a 20 speeds and also great for my needs. My 29 is 11 S also a keeper. I have a 28 in waist, not an athlete but used to 4 hrs rides. I do not sit in a car, biking last 20 years, and i do not eat pizza.

 

[davarello]

I have an irregular heart beat with episodes of heart failure and the ebike (Levo) has literally been a life saver. I can keep my HR steady on climbs and as Gary noted am more likely to get a spike in HR on a long fast descent. I've noticed my fitness improve gradually, with far more stable blood pressure and better energy levels.

 

[iainc]

Many thanks for the replies, really useful !

 

[Trail-Niels]

I would suggest you get an easy gear. An Ebike is about 20 more pounds. Many are sold without an easy gear, it makes no sense. I bought my first Ebike 6 months ago the cassette was 10S 11-36 i had it swithced to 11-42. Also if you want lots of gear range get a Yamaha it takes 2 front rings. On my Haibike/Yamaha i use the 44T to pedal to the trails and back. I use the 32T in the woods. An easy gear is better for
- A your transmission
- B not draining your battery
- C your condition
- D your knees

I wouldn’t say many new ebikes doesn’t have a low gear as I see a lot of the new ones coming out are equipped with SRAM Eagle 12 speed cassettes with a range og 11-50 and a 32 or 34 chainring up front, that’s decent for low gears even for non assisted mtb’s - I ride a 10-50 cassette and a 32 chainring on my non assisted mtb.

 

[miPbiP]

My ticker's OK (though I'm a marked man as both my grandfathers dies from heart issues and my dad had a big one younger than I am now) but am surprised and pleased to hear how many are being helped by their bikes.

Be strong and stay healthy y'all.

 

[33red]

I wouldn’t say many new ebikes doesn’t have a low gear as I see a lot of the new ones coming out are equipped with SRAM Eagle 12 speed cassettes with a range of 11-50 and a 32 or 34 chainring up front, that’s decent for low gears even for non assisted mtb’s - I ride a 10-50 cassette and a 32 chainring on my non assisted mtb.

I agree i tested a Norco with 32-50 and liked the transmission plus the handling with his short chain stay but it retails 8,000$ canadian witch is not reasonable in my opinion. 4 months it would wait until winter is over and with our sale taxes it would cost me 9,200$. Also the battery is fixed wich is a nono for me and many. I wrote to them about that on their facebook page.

 

[highpeakrider]

At 59 I’m the other way than @Gary , all mine are on Peak District intense short climbs where I reach max for a short period.
most I can do in eco and trail when it gets tough, I couldn’t do the max rate climbing in boost as they are to technical.

if I look at my veloviewer data I average about 15 mile rides with 2000 feet of climbing and average is just over 100 bpm.

 

[Mikerb]

You could do them in turbo....just wind down max power 10 or 20% but with pedal assist still at 100%....or try shuttle. For steep technical ascents I start right from the off in turbo and a low gear so no mode or gear changing mid climb. 100/100% if grip is reasonable....max turned down to 80 if a lot of loose gravel.....70 if muddy.