E8000 sudden power outage??

[Richie 2.0]

I've only had this twice to date, but happily pedaling along and suddenly screen is off and no assist.. Then right away everything powered up again and on I go. I don't need to touch the power button or do anything. The battery is not moving around (external 8010 on a vitus e sommet) and is 99% healthy with only 17 cycles so far. 1200km on the bike. The ONLY thing I know about that could be the culprit is the damage I did to the controller wire when I managed to trap it between the stem and a headset spacer and ride 3 miles before I realised. The cable was flatter but not open to the elements but I wrapped electrical tape around the flattened but anyway.

Any clues folks? Cheers

 

[Spiff]

Chsnge the cable. It might have the internal isolation damaged and as a result intermittent shortcircuits between the internal wire and ground shield

 

[Richie 2.0]

Chsnge the cable. It might have the internal isolation damaged and as a result intermittent shortcircuits between the internal wire and ground shield

Is that even possible? It's sw e7000 switch so it is wired right into the unit I think.

 

[Spiff]

You are right, the cable comes with the switch and it may not possible to replace the cable alone.

 

[steve_sordy]

I had a similar problem when I had the battery changed. The fitter trapped a cable slightly during removal or installation. It worked fine for several weeks and then became an intermittent power off, then on again when the bars were twisted. New cable (and a different fitter) sorted it.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Similar problem in the past. I taped the display cable to the gear cable to keep things tidy.

All was well for weeks then suddenly it started to re-boot as you'e described for no apparent reason.

Untapped the cable and re-taped it every 5cm's and it was fine after that. So it could be you have a permanently damaged cable that's just got worse with time, or it's "tight" somewhere which seems to affect it.

So you might want to trace and check the display cable all the way back to the motor, just to make sure it's not pulled tight anywhere.

I thought for the switch, the cable was removable, even though it doesn't look obvious at first glance ? I swapped from e8000 switch to e7000 switch and installed a new cable at the same time.

 

[eia]

I have same Problem with my Bike. It suddenly turns off, most of the times when riding flat. But no joke - only when my wife rides the bike. Seriously it only happens to her not to me. She rides the bikes for 30 mins in it turns off 3-5 times. I ride the bike for hours and no problem. It really sounds crazy but I do not know what to do anymore.

 

[Stuart569]

Looks like I maybe got the last 1 metre cable at CRC/Wiggle...

 

[Keisari66]

Mine has suddenly started cutting out too. The screen goes off, no motor assistance, not even an error code. It just goes off and I have to stop and restart it. It may cut out a number of times after that and then it might work flawlessly for a few hours and randomly cut out once again. The cutting out is worst when I start a ride in the morning. I think this started after I relubed my main pivot bearings, maybe some wire got caught somewhere... dropped the motor and battery and checked all the connections and they were good as new. Is my only option to take it to Shimano or is there something else I could try?

 

[Bagpu55]

My first ride on the bike last saturday did this twice on a flat road section, all switched off then back on again? Brand new (e sommet again)

 

[Richie 2.0]

In my case, I took off the electrical tape I had used to "repair" the damage I had done to the switch cable and routed it with a little more slack. Subsequently I have had no more issues (although I've been doing only chilled rides for obvious reasons). The strange thing in my case was that it came back on without me doing anything, although the assist would default to off.

 

[Bagpu55]

In my case, I took off the electrical tape I had used to "repair" the damage I had done to the switch cable and routed it with a little more slack. Subsequently I have had no more issues (although I've been doing only chilled rides for obvious reasons). The strange thing in my case was that it came back on without me doing anything, although the assist would default to off.

That's exactly what mine did, reverts assist to zero. I did tape the 2 display cables in one place but hardly tight.

 

[Keisari66]

Maybe I’ll get it to Shimano and they can reset the firmware and see if it helps.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I had an intermittent problem last year with an e8000 bike.

I'd taped the cable to the gear cable to make things tidy.

Eventually worked out it was the cable causing tension on the wire. Untaped and just put a loop of tape every 5cms and all was fine.

There have been similar problems with the speed cable becoming tight when the rear suspension moves.

 

[R120]

First check the battery mount is adjusted correctly - they can work a bit loose, or be set up badly when the bike is put together - if the battery is jolted and its not clamped tight enough the bike will power off. This is easy to sort, and is quite common with externally mounted batteries.

Now check all the wires are clicked in properly, easy to think one is without realising it needs a harder push - you will feel if it is in properly because it does a small click/pop when its full inserted.

If you have a speed sensor on the chain stay, depending on how the cabling is run, it can get damaged by debris, or the swing arm movement can pull it loose if its been too tight/clipped to the frame. Do same check for other cables, if they have been run too tight they may have dislodged the connector slightly.

The Shimano service manual is in the Shimano motors section of the forum, and you can see how everything should be put together, and adjusted as necessary in there.

 

[Bagpu55]

Mines cured. I think one of the cables was squashed between the frame and main power cable. I reconnected all cables and made sure they had free movement. No issues today.

 

[B1rdie]

The same problem started to my spectral an I guess its the cable/conector juntion that was badly kinked somehow.
Ordered a new cable and also an ewen100 just in case my display has also got damadged.

 

[mmmax]

Mine has suddenly started cutting out too. The screen goes off, no motor assistance, not even an error code. It just goes off and I have to stop and restart it. It may cut out a number of times after that and then it might work flawlessly for a few hours and randomly cut out once again. The cutting out is worst when I start a ride in the morning. I think this started after I relubed my main pivot bearings, maybe some wire got caught somewhere... dropped the motor and battery and checked all the connections and they were good as new. Is my only option to take it to Shimano or is there something else I could try?

Another one here with the same issue. Just bought a second hand bike with e-8000 less than a year old. Motor cuts off and display restarts, then back to normal “off-mode” and engine is ready again. Seems to happen more in bumpy trails but also happens on flat ground. Have tightened the upper battery rack piece (external battery) already and the battery itself is tightened with straps.

No error code and battery keeps light on. Haven’t noticed any of the cables visually looking harmed. Haven’t opened the engine though. Any ideas?

 

[Zimmerframe]

Another one here with the same issue. Just bought a second hand bike with e-8000 less than a year old. Motor cuts off and display restarts, then back to normal “off-mode” and engine is ready again. Seems to happen more in bumpy trails but also happens on flat ground. Have tightened the upper battery rack piece (external battery) already and the battery itself is tightened with straps.

No error code and battery keeps light on. Haven’t noticed any of the cables visually looking harmed. Haven’t opened the engine though. Any ideas?

Yup. Quite often screen re-starts and motor stops are caused by either bad connections - check the plugs into the back of the screen are all the way in - they click. Also check the motor end, take the left side cover off and made sure it's clean, dry and everything's connected.

Or, check the cable for the display isn't too tight, or being pulled tight when you turn for instance, if it's taped or tangled or pulled with another cable. If they're crimped, catch, squashed or stretched them cause the system to re-boot - so make sure they have a clean run . You can tape them to a brake/gear cable/hose but don't take the whole length only every 5cm or so, then the cable can flex/move as necessary.

Also check the wheel sensor cable isnt' getting squashed or stretched with suspension movement.