E passport du soleil - suggestions for a lock

[MarkH]

As title, doing the Epds in a couple of weeks and can imagine there will be times when I want to lock the bike up say at food stops or if I need to charge at a mid point. Any suggestions on a good lock that I can either carry in a pack or around waist?

 

[Gary]

you shouldn't really need a lock TBH. Pretty much all resteraunts/cafes in the PDS have outdoor seating areas, table service and bike stands and you can generally keep an eye on your bike while you eat/drink. if not (unlikely) just go somewhere else where you can.
if you're going to the SPAR in morzine (other supermarche's exist and the same advice applies but only SPAR doesn't close for lunch) take turns with a mate to stay with the bikes while each of you go in to grab scran.
I don't even carry a pack when in the PDS. just a multitool, tube/Co2 etc. in a small frame bag (Daking hotlaps) and my phone/cash in my pocket.
a cheapie lightweight lock might give you piece of mind while sitting in for food though.

You'd be surprised just how many £4k+ bikes are left unattended outside the supermarche's of Morzine/Les Gets.
Don't be that guy They do occasionally get stolen.

 

[steve_sordy]

I carry in my backpack a lightweight one-metre long wire cable lock with 4-digit combination lock. It is meant for suitcases or rucksacks for airports and such. It would be easy to crack by those travelling equipped, but when there is a rich choice of unprotected bikes it might make the thieving scroats choose someone else's bike! They don't make them any more, but I managed to find this place that is selling them off very cheaply indeed. Wort a punt if you can find no better / lighter / cheaper.
Vine Lock Ultra Secure 4 Digit Combination Retractable Cable Transparent Black

 

[Troutwrestler]

If you have to leave your bike unattended for a second, put it in the largest sprocket on the cassette, then, once it is stationary, click the shifter 10 times so anyone trying to ride it off will foul the chain. Also whip out the Maxle and rear axle.

This combined with a British brake set up will ensure any opportunist will end up focussed on picking up their teeth rather than your bike.

Don't forget when you return.

 

[Gary]

so your drivetrain, rotors and dropouts stand a pretty big chance of being damaged if anyone does try to ride it.

That'll teach those pesky thieves... Oh wait.

 

[Troutwrestler]

You will still have your bike. You might also "apprehend" a thief.

 

[Gary]

If some little fucktard tries to nick my bike while I'm sat in a bar looking at him doing so don't worry he's going to get "apprehended"

If you're worried

One far easier/less damaging little trick is to strap your helmet buckle to your wheel.
but seriously. just choose a seat where you have full view of your bike.

 

[Dax]

I carry in my backpack a lightweight one-metre long wire cable lock with 4-digit combination lock. It is meant for suitcases or rucksacks for airports and such. It would be easy to crack by those travelling equipped, but when there is a rich choice of unprotected bikes it might make the thieving scroats choose someone else's bike! They don't make them any more, but I managed to find this place that is selling them off very cheaply indeed. Wort a punt if you can find no better / lighter / cheaper.
Vine Lock Ultra Secure 4 Digit Combination Retractable Cable Transparent Black

I take that approach when I'm snowboarding, not sure Id trust my bike to it! Generally I just dont leave my bike unattended

 

[MarkH]

What do u guys think of these for quick cafe breaks

Z LOK COMBO Black - Adjustable, lightweight multiuse lock by Hiplok

 

[steve_sordy]

I take that approach when I'm snowboarding, not sure Id trust my bike to it! Generally I just don't leave my bike unattended

I 100% agree with that! I would rather drive a steam roller over my bike than let some scroat steal it and get the benefit of my hard-earned!
I try never to leave my bike unattended, but now and then circumstances arise and I need a lock. When I was last in the Alps, several of my riding buddies carried one and when we sat outside a bar taking a break, we linked the bikes together with the cable locks. There may have been the odd moment when none of us were looking at the bikes, but the presence of 3-5 cable locks would have given us the time to notice that something was going on.

Those cable locks on the site I linked to are now so cheap that you could buy several and give one each to your mates. Group security?

 

[Mikerb]

choose carefully and be prepared to pay. Most bike locks take about 15 seconds to remove by someone properly equipped for the job..albeit they might stop the opportunist amateur.

 

[HORSPWR]

choose carefully and be prepared to pay. Most bike locks take about 15 seconds to remove by someone properly equipped for the job..albeit they might stop the opportunist amateur.

It may only take someone properly equipped 15 seconds but taking an angle grinder to a bike cable/lock outside a restaurant will probably attract some unwanted attention though.

 

[Mikerb]

Most can be cut with bolt croppers

 

[HORSPWR]

Most can be cut with bolt croppers

No they can't, have you ever tried to cut the examples below with bolt cutters?

I have and on those flex cables all they do is crush, they cut hardly any steel wires. I had to use an angle grinder and a cut off disc on mine when I lost the key to my lock.

KryptoLok Standard With Flex - New-U

Evolution series 4 1090 Integrated Chain

 

[Mikerb]

No they can't, have you ever tried to cut the examples below with bolt cutters?

I have and on those flex cables all they do is crush, they cut hardly any steel wires. I had to use an angle grinder and a cut off disc on mine when I lost the key to my lock.

KryptoLok Standard With Flex - New-U

Evolution series 4 1090 Integrated Chain

As I said you get what you pay for and the KrypoLok is £45...………..lots on the market that look the same at half the price but nowhere near as thief proof.

 

[Mikerb]

If you want the DBs in terms of U locks the Abus Granite Extreme is it and costs £170.

 

[steve_sordy]

I have just bought a Kryptonite Ground Anchor and one of their noose-style New York chains. Both are Sold Secure Gold. Very impressive looking kit!
The ground anchor comes with a 5/8" masonry drill that requires a 1/2" chuck on a hammer drill. I have hammer drill but only with a 3/8" chuck! The drill I borrowed from a mate looked the business, but turned out to be knackered; won't hold speed and keeps stalling. So 45 mins of "faffing about clearing the area, setting up, trying, giving up, and then putting it all away" later and I have one irregular shaped hole 1/2" deep! What a faff!

And I believe that the concrete in the garage floor must be the same spec they use for gun emplacements!

I'm now on the scrounge around the village.

I'll feel proper sick if my bike goes missing before I can get this sorted.

But once it's all installed, the only way they are getting my bike out the garage is one piece at a time!

 

[Mikerb]

So go and buy a proper 5/8 drill bit with a reduced shaft to fit 3/8 chuck. Firstly drill a much smaller pilot hole. It helps to then use another slightly larger bit before going to the 5/8. Start drilling without using the hammer setting and gradually increase the depth cleaning kut the hole as you go. You can use hammer once the hole has enough depth to stop the bit wanering off course. The floor will comprise concrete screed as a top layer and a much coarser mix below...hence the need to take it slow.

 

[Mikerb]

Screwfix for the drill bit...£5.

 

[HORSPWR]

I have just bought a Kryptonite Ground Anchor and one of their noose-style New York chains. Both are Sold Secure Gold. Very impressive looking kit!
The ground anchor comes with a 5/8" masonry drill that requires a 1/2" chuck on a hammer drill. I have hammer drill but only with a 3/8" chuck! The drill I borrowed from a mate looked the business, but turned out to be knackered; won't hold speed and keeps stalling. So 45 mins of "faffing about clearing the area, setting up, trying, giving up, and then putting it all away" later and I have one irregular shaped hole 1/2" deep! What a faff!

And I believe that the concrete in the garage floor must be the same spec they use for gun emplacements!

I'm now on the scrounge around the village.

I'll feel proper sick if my bike goes missing before I can get this sorted.

But once it's all installed, the only way they are getting my bike out the garage is one piece at a time!

You really need an SDS concrete drill and a hammer drill to suit that, it'll chew through that concrete like butter. Standard impact drills and masonry bits are shit.

 

[Mikerb]

The only additional benefit of a SDS is the grip it gives in a SDS chuck. It is the quality of bit and the method that makes the difference. I managed fine with a standard (quality) hammer drill and bit

 

[Sherman]

4kg chain is probably not something that one wants to have in the backpack when riding in a bike park.

I use a lock like ottolock to attach my bike to bike rack etc. Yes, it's not thief proof, but stops the opportunist thief from riding away with my bike. So far so good.

 

[Mikerb]

Yes...hence chain for at home and D Lock for carrying.

 

[mark.ai]

If you want a light & strong lock (titanium) these are great: Altor Premium Bicycle Security.
But they don't have a Sold Secure rating, so it depends if you need that for insurance.

 

[steve_sordy]

You really need an SDS concrete drill and a hammer drill to suit that, it'll chew through that concrete like butter. Standard impact drills and masonry bits are shit.

You could well be correct. I borrowed two more power tools from people in the village. Both had 1/2" chucks, but both looked as old as the hills! The first one was a lightweight job; it looked really old but it was a hammer drill. When I pressed the go button I got a really loud bang from the motor that gave me a start. Also a smell of burning, but it went OK after that. Sadly, I could not get the chuck tight enough to stop the drill bit spinning in the chuck. The second was a bit newer and a bit beefier, but it had no hammer function. I had sparks coming from the hole, but then the bit also spun in the chuck!

Not counting time spent phoning around, fetching the borrowed power tools and then taking them back, I've now spent a total of 65 mins farting about and my hole is now only 5/8" deep!
I was in Wicks this morning on other business and the power tool to do the job is £125- (ouch!). I'm thinking of buying a 16mm chisel for £5 and hammering my way in, old style! But it looks like I'll have to throw myself at the mercy of an electrician that lives in the village; he is sure to have a decent power tool.

I am an apprentice trained mechanical engineer, so I find my failure so far embarrassing, it's only 3 bloody holes!

 

[Mikerb]

Wow...your village has an ace collection of knackered power tools! If you do not have a decent power drill then regardless of the current job, its a pretty basic part of a tool kit. You are going nowhere fast with knackered drills and a lame drill bit! Even with decent tools you still need to drill progressively as per my post further up because the holes need to be both accurately placed and the right diameter or the rawbolts will not seize in tbe holes.

 

[HORSPWR]

You could well be correct. I borrowed two more power tools from people in the village. Both had 1/2" chucks, but both looked as old as the hills! The first one was a lightweight job; it looked really old but it was a hammer drill. When I pressed the go button I got a really loud bang from the motor that gave me a start. Also a smell of burning, but it went OK after that. Sadly, I could not get the chuck tight enough to stop the drill bit spinning in the chuck. The second was a bit newer and a bit beefier, but it had no hammer function. I had sparks coming from the hole, but then the bit also spun in the chuck!

Not counting time spent phoning around, fetching the borrowed power tools and then taking them back, I've now spent a total of 65 mins farting about and my hole is now only 5/8" deep!
I was in Wicks this morning on other business and the power tool to do the job is £125- (ouch!). I'm thinking of buying a 16mm chisel for £5 and hammering my way in, old style! But it looks like I'll have to throw myself at the mercy of an electrician that lives in the village; he is sure to have a decent power tool.

I am an apprentice trained mechanical engineer, so I find my failure so far embarrassing, it's only 3 bloody holes!

I feel your pain. I drill and fit anchors into concrete nearly every day and I don't want to rub it in but with the right drill and bit I can drill a 12mm hole 100mm deep in around 20-30 seconds.

Do you not have a equipment hire place close by or just get your local sparky to drill them out.
Don't go old school with a chisel or makeshift item, all you'll achieve is shitty holes that the anchors wont lock into. AND make sure that you get the holes drilled deeper than the anchor, I've seen so many people bottom out the anchor in the hole and then when that happens you can't take the anchor back out to drill it deeper unless you're very experienced and know how to do it. Do it right the first time or you'll end up with a floor that looks like Swiss cheese!
Sorry to say but your village sounds like it is 30 years behind the rest of the world.

 

[steve_sordy]

I feel your pain. I drill and fit anchors into concrete nearly every day and I don't want to rub it in but with the right drill and bit I can drill a 12mm hole 100mm deep in around 20-30 seconds.

Do you not have a equipment hire place close by or just get your local sparky to drill them out.
Don't go old school with a chisel or makeshift item, all you'll achieve is shitty holes that the anchors wont lock into. AND make sure that you get the holes drilled deeper than the anchor, I've seen so many people bottom out the anchor in the hole and then when that happens you can't take the anchor back out to drill it deeper unless you're very experienced and know how to do it. Do it right the first time or you'll end up with a floor that looks like Swiss cheese!
Sorry to say but your village sounds like it is 30 years behind the rest of the world.

I was expecting the whole job to have been done and dusted within 20 mins, so I was surprised at how it turned out. A tool hire shop will be my next stop if I can't scare up a decent power tool very soon.

Very good tip about the hole depth, I'll go a bit deeper just in case.

My village didn't even have street lights when I moved in 33 years ago, and all the electricity came by overhead cables into my house (unusual for the UK). The population of 480 was the same number as it was when it was mentioned in the Domesday Book! (For those not residing in the UK, England was successfully invaded by the Norman French in 1066 and the new owner, known ever since as William The Conqueror, had an audit done of his new possession. The book was called the Domesday Book). Parts of the church predate 1066. So yes the village is old, but it is no longer behind the times. We now have internet businesses in the village, but alas no tool hire shop. And we have street lighting! yey!

 

[steve_sordy]

I managed to rustle up a proper power tool, a Bosch SDS jobby.

It went though the concrete floor very quickly. But my pain was still not over! The hole was the correct diameter, but it wasn't straight! The shank of the drill is narrower than the tip and the pebbles in the concrete must have moved the bit over here and there as it penetrated the concrete. So the steel Rawlbolts would not go in. I pushed the first one in and it got stuck. The only way to get it out was to unscrew the bolt and pull out the four fingers one by one. But the four sided spreader nut at the end stayed in the hole! I used a piece of gear cable inner with the end folded over as a fishook and got it out after a few mins of fishing. It was a right faff to reassemble the Rawlbolt!

I had to rattle the drill about to make the hole a bit bigger to take the Rawlbolt. This whole episode happened on each of the three holes!! What a Titanic faff!

Anyway, job done. By the way, the New York Noose at 1.3m is only just long enough!

 

[Mikerb]

Heck!
My chain is only 1m but I have the back wheel in a stand and the front wheel removed.