Dt Swiss 350 service

[Mikerb]

All of this may be common knowledge to some but if not ...Read on.
I have a Whyte E180RS very nearly a year old now albeit fairly low mileage since I also have a Levo Comp. Apart from changing pedals and seat...and some adjustment to bar width and position I have done nothing to the bike except clean and lube.
The bike has DTSwiss 1700 hybrid wheelset which uses hybrid 350 hubs, xd driver, 24t ratchet engagement system and SRAM EAGLE 1275 cassette. I am very familiar with the Levo 3 pawl hg driver and hub set up but the DTSwiss 350 is new to me.
So, everything still working fine but I service the Levo freehub every 6 months so thought it was time to tackle the Whyte. The freewheel noise had become quite loud and I know that is one indication a service is due.
I suspect the process is similar for any DT Swiss freehub/hub.
So having removed the wheel from the bike the process is:-
1. Use a standard shimano cassette tool and chain whip to remove the cassette. I found the type of cassette tool with the 12mm shaft best because there is not a lot of depth for it to secure. The cassette comes off as a single piece since all cogs are pinned.
2. Next remove the end cap. You can use tools like a plumbers adjustable wrench with cloth to protect the end cap....or use the 12mm extension of the cassette tool. Either way it is levered off rather than pulled.
3. The XD driver can then be gently pulled off the axle being careful not to loose parts. Starting at the freehub you will have a spring then 2 ratchet rings and then another spring probably still in the hub and a sleeve that slides off the axle. Note each spring is fitted with its smallest diameter towards the ratchets. Note also the ratchets are identical but are fitted with their serrated faces facing each other.
4. You can now clean everything and inspect both freehub and hub bearings. Mine were all smooth so no further stripping of hub or freehub was required.
5. The ratchets ,springs and ratchet rings in the hub and freehub need to be lightly greased with the red DT Swiss Special Grease. The bearing faces, axle xd driver thread, inside of the cassette and end cap seal can be lightly greased with a general purpose grease (lithium based).
6. Reassemble the driver and ratchet system and push the end cap back on.
7 . Present the cassette and ensure it locates on its castellations then tighten the cassette with the cassette tool to 40nm.
I was amazed how clean everything was with no evidence of water or dust ingress. There was however virtually no sign of any grease!!

 

[B1rdie]

On my canyon spectralon, once the rear wheel was removed and being shaken, to the seal a tyre bead with new sealant when the cassete and all those inner parts described above simply drop to the floor, almos hitting my foot.
It has the 11 speed shimano spline, not the hd, so I don’t know if the same could happen.
Its very easy to reassemble and grease once you find the pieces, though.

 

[Mikerb]

On my canyon spectralon, once the rear wheel was removed and being shaken, to the seal a tyre bead with new sealant when the cassete and all those inner parts described above simply drop to the floor, almos hitting my foot.
It has the 11 speed shimano spline, not the hd, so I don’t know if the same could happen.
Its very easy to reassemble and grease once you find the pieces, though.

if that is a Shimano 510 hub or similar the freehub assembly is held on by the end cap (in the same way as I mentioned above for the DT Swiss). If it just falls off the end cap needs replacing.

 

[Mikerb]

All of this may be common knowledge to some but if not ...Read on.
I have a Whyte E180RS very nearly a year old now albeit fairly low mileage since I also have a Levo Comp. Apart from changing pedals and seat...and some adjustment to bar width and position I have done nothing to the bike except clean and lube.
The bike has DTSwiss 1700 hybrid wheelset which uses hybrid 350 hubs, xd driver, 24t ratchet engagement system and SRAM EAGLE 1275 cassette. I am very familiar with the Levo 3 pawl hg driver and hub set up but the DTSwiss 350 is new to me.
So, everything still working fine but I service the Levo freehub every 6 months so thought it was time to tackle the Whyte. The freewheel noise had become quite loud and I know that is one indication a service is due.
I suspect the process is similar for any DT Swiss freehub/hub.
So having removed the wheel from the bike the process is:-
1. Use a standard shimano cassette tool and chain whip to remove the cassette. I found the type of cassette tool with the 12mm shaft best because there is not a lot of depth for it to secure. The cassette comes off as a single piece since all cogs are pinned.
2. Next remove the end cap. You can use tools like a plumbers adjustable wrench with cloth to protect the end cap....or use the 12mm extension of the cassette tool. Either way it is levered off rather than pulled.
3. The XD driver can then be gently pulled off the axle being careful not to loose parts. Starting at the freehub you will have a spring then 2 ratchet rings and then another spring probably still in the hub and a sleeve that slides off the axle. Note each spring is fitted with its smallest diameter towards the ratchets. Note also the ratchets are identical but are fitted with their serrated faces facing each other.
4. You can now clean everything and inspect both freehub and hub bearings. Mine were all smooth so no further stripping of hub or freehub was required.
5. The ratchets ,springs and ratchet rings in the hub and freehub need to be lightly greased with the red DT Swiss Special Grease. The bearing faces, axle xd driver thread, inside of the cassette and end cap seal can be lightly greased with a general purpose grease (lithium based).
6. Reassemble the driver and ratchet system and push the end cap back on.
7 . Present the cassette and ensure it locates on its castellations then tighten the cassette with the cassette tool to 40nm.
I was amazed how clean everything was with no evidence of water or dust ingress. There was however virtually no sign of any grease!!

..............just to add............if you are confident everything has been previously well serviced/greased ( especially the end cap) and you only want to do a quick check/regrease of the ratchet mechanism, there is not need to remove the cassette. The cassette, freehub and end cap can all be removed as one by applying pressure behind and either side of the cassette with your hands sufficient to release the end cap. The freehub will remain in the cassette. Then clean and re grease the ratchet assembly as a bove, and finally replace the cassette and re- secure the end cap. All of this depends on the end cap being willing to come off just with the leverage you can apply by hand behind the cassette.......... it will not if not well greased!

 

[Rahr85]

I remember the first time i took the back wheel off and was suprised when the cassette fell off.. it does make checking the bearings a bit easier. ?

 

[RustyIron]

I remember the first time i took the back wheel off and was suprised when the cassette fell off.. it does make checking the bearings a bit easier.

Yeah, it's a definite benefit on DT Swiss hubs. Not so much with other hubs. Last time I took off my Industry-Nine wheel, the cassette fell off, while the pawls and springs went flying in all different directions across my garage floor. The time saved removing the cassette was squandered crawling around on the floor with a flashlight. Not worth it.

 

[B1rdie]

if that is a Shimano 510 hub or similar the freehub assembly is held on by the end cap (in the same way as I mentioned above for the DT Swiss). If it just falls off the end cap needs replacing.

This hub was a DT swiss 350, the same as you described. It happens as some more guys could confirm above.