Dropper post clamp question on a Whyte e150rs

[EMTBSEAN]

I recently fitted a Rockshox Reverb AXS dropper post on my bike but I can’t seem to get it stop turning in the seat post tube, I followed the fitting instructions to the letter including cleaning the tube thoroughly, using carbon gripper paste and tightening the clamp to 6NM as specified on the clamp and the dropper still turns, I even tightened the clamp to 14NM and it still turns albeit with a little force, the dropper is exactly the same diameter as the old one so I’m not sure what to do now, I was thinking that someone could shed some light on it please

 

[Mikerb]

get rid of the carbon gripper paste.

 

[steve_sordy]

If ordinary grease doesn't work and carbon grip paste doesn't work, then increasing the clamping torque is not the answer! That will only compress the dropper shaft that contains all the sensitive internals. Those internal components will be compressed and will wear prematurely.

Here is a suggestion. Use a shim between the seat tube and the dropper post. It will have to be a thin one. Make one from a coke can (or any aluminium drinks can). Use a smear of grease to prevent any corrosion, then torque as recommended.

I would rather have the saddle turn slightly under pressure than have the clamp force too high to stop it. As long as the saddle does not drop from its correct position I would accept a bit of rotational looseness.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Excellent suggestions gents, many thanks indeed, I have some Northern Monk in the fridge, what better excuse is there to crack one open and use it for the intended task, I have some lithium grease that I used on my old dropper post which worked perfectly, I’ll sort it this Friday, cheers guys

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Update on this issue, it’s not an issue anymore, as advised, I got rid of the gripper paste, bought a new inter clamp from Whyte’s, cleaned out any remnants of paste from the seat tube, drunk the Northern Monk but didn’t need to make any shims and the new dropper post is no longer spinning in the frame and even though the new clamp says I can tighten to 14Nm I only tightened it to 6Nm
Many thanks for your help guys

 

[steve_sordy]

Update on this issue, it’s not an issue anymore, as advised, I got rid of the gripper paste, bought a new inter clamp from Whyte’s, cleaned out any remnants of paste from the seat tube, drunk the Northern Monk but didn’t need to make any shims and the new dropper post is no longer spinning in the frame and even though the new clamp says I can tighten to 14Nm I only tightened it to 6Nm

Just because the clamp can go to 14Nm does not mean that you should do so. The dropper post clap requirements must be followed unless you want it to have a short life. I would consider 6Nm a maximum.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Yep that’s what I tightened it to Steve, thanks anyway mate

 

[Loe Rider]

A bit late perhaps but if it's 6nm then my guess is that it is an intergrip clamp, not the standard sort. Might be too late if you already crushed it but I would have suggested taking the intergrip bolt out and stripping it right down and greasing up the tapers to make sure it moves smoothly. If that doesn't work try a little gripper paste on the clamping face only.

 

[steve_sordy]

A bit late perhaps but if it's 6nm then my guess is that it is an intergrip clamp, not the standard sort. Might be too late if you already crushed it but I would have suggested taking the intergrip bolt out and stripping it right down and greasing up the tapers to make sure it moves smoothly. If that doesn't work try a little gripper paste on the clamping face only.

I confess to not knowing the difference between an intergrip clamp and the standard sort. All the clamps except the one on a Whyte (built into the frame) were the same sort, but I've no idea what sort they were.

 

[Loe Rider]

Yep, thats it Steve. A mate rides the e160rs and that has the intergrip one which is like a bolt through the frame which has a slight cutout for an interference fit with the seatpost. The interference bit has a taper at each end from memory. TBH it seems like a needlessly over engineered replacement for something that works just fine. If it ain't broke.....

 

[Loe Rider]

Yep, thats it Steve. A mate rides the e160rs and that has the intergrip one which is like a bolt through the frame which has a slight cutout for an interference fit with the seatpost. The interference bit has a taper at each end from memory. TBH it seems like a needlessly over engineered replacement for something that works just fine. If it ain't broke.....

INTERGRIP SEAT CLAMP

Intergrip seat clamp

whytebikes.com

That's the puppy

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Yeah that’s the one in my bike the only difference is that mine has 14Nm on the side of the clamp

 

[Mikerb]

I confess to not knowing the difference between an intergrip clamp and the standard sort. All the clamps except the one on a Whyte (built into the frame) were the same sort, but I've no idea what sort they were.

I dont know of any other brand that uses the intergrip clamp other than Whyte, and in fact Whyte has reverted back to the standard set post clamp now in their 2023 range. ( An intergrip clamp is fitted through the frame top tube or top tube to seat tube triangular piece, and the bolt at one end progressively pushes a concave shaped bar laterally against the seat post. Max torque is 6nm.) I guess the advantages the intergrip design has, are that the top of the seat tube is not weakened with the "split" that enables a normal clamp to compress the seat tube, it provides a greater area of contact against the seat post, and it is not exposed to dirt etc.

 

[Mikerb]

(sorry for the replication...2 other posts were made as I wrote the a bove!!)

 

[steve_sordy]

I dont know of any other brand that uses the intergrip clamp other than Whyte, and in fact Whyte has reverted back to the standard set post clamp now in their 2023 range. ( An intergrip clamp is fitted through the frame top tube or top tube to seat tube triangular piece, and the bolt at one end progressively pushes a concave shaped bar laterally against the seat post. Max torque is 6nm.) I guess the advantages the intergrip design has, are that the top of the seat tube is not weakened with the "split" that enables a normal clamp to compress the seat tube, it provides a greater area of contact against the seat post, and it is not exposed to dirt etc.

So "intergrip" is a short form for "integrated grip". I can see that now. Thanks.

 

[Mikerb]

So "intergrip" is a short form for "integrated grip". I can see that now. Thanks.

I recognise the term mostly as associated with flat panel welding clamps.........albeit they work in the opposite direction clamping upward rather than outward. I think the term relates to the mechanism that creates the clamp being internal as opposed to external..............could be wrong!

 

[steve_sordy]

The "grip" (seat tube clamp) is "integrated" into the frame?