Levo Gen 2 Dropper cable

[Binhill1]

Any tips regarding changing dropper on Levo expert. Is the cable easy enough to get out and new one in.

 

[thewildblue]

Inner cable comes out nice and easy. Be careful with the outer if it drops too low you will have to drop the motor, which isnt as bad as it sounds. Cranks off, remove the front chain ring, pivot bolt and then the 6 motor bolts. Of course the battery needs to be out also.

 

[Binhill1]

Inner cable comes out nice and easy. Be careful with the outer if it drops too low you will have to drop the motor, which isnt as bad as it sounds. Cranks off, remove the front chain ring, pivot bolt and then the 6 motor bolts. Of course the battery needs to be out also.

Changing from command post to one up so I can use same outer you think.

 

[TrackRat]

When do you need to replace the outer? Making a change to a Fox Transfer and wondering whether I need to worry about replacing the outer as opposed to just threading a new cable thru

 

[DtEW]

Re: replacing the dropper post outer cable. There’s actually no need to drop the motor. All you need is to get the left motor cover off, which in-turn requires removing the left-side crank arm, as per the Specialized Rider Care video. Just with that, threading the cable on either side of the cable guide at the base of the seat tube is actually fairly easy.

 

[Binhill1]

Re: replacing the dropper post outer cable. There’s actually no need to drop the motor. All you need is to get the left motor cover off, which in-turn requires removing the left-side crank arm, as per the Specialized Rider Care video. Just with that, threading the cable on either side of the cable guide at the base of the seat tube is actually fairly easy.

Yes found the video . Do I need to change outer as well any idea would be a length issue if anything I'm thinking. Thanks anyway

 

[Binhill1]

Re: replacing the dropper post outer cable. There’s actually no need to drop the motor. All you need is to get the left motor cover off, which in-turn requires removing the left-side crank arm, as per the Specialized Rider Care video. Just with that, threading the cable on either side of the cable guide at the base of the seat tube is actually fairly easy.

Just watched video he inserts both ends of the cable from left side . My cable does not go through the shadow loop. I fitted new motor myself so messed up not putting bight in loop im thinking . That explains why outer cable has wear on it. Very gritty in there as well.

 

[DtEW]

Just watched video he inserts both ends of the cable from left side . My cable does not go through the shadow loop. I fitted new motor myself so messed up not putting bight in loop im thinking . That explains why outer cable has wear on it. Very gritty in there as well.

Well, if you routed it wrong/direct, then you definitely need to re-size with new housing, since the correct/“shadow loop” routing requires approximately an entire foot more of housing/cable.

Yes, housing surface scuffing is one of the consequences of mis-routing the dropper cable, as it will be forced to make an acute turn over a sharp edge. Increased cable friction + accelerated liner wear (due to the too-acute turn) is another consequence. Deeper dropper insertion (i.e. setting up for shorter leg lengths) will also be a problem since the cable will be forced to do crazy things if you insert the post past where the “side-arm” joins the seat tube.

 

[Binhill1]

Well, if you routed it wrong/direct, then you definitely need to re-size with new housing, since the correct/“shadow loop” routing requires approximately an entire foot more of housing/cable.

Yes, housing surface scuffing is one of the consequences of mis-routing the dropper cable, as it will be forced to make an acute turn over a sharp edge. Increased cable friction + accelerated liner wear (due to the too-acute turn) is another consequence. Deeper dropper insertion (i.e. setting up for shorter leg lengths) will also be a problem since the cable will be forced to do crazy things if you insert the post past where the “side-arm” joins the seat tube.

Yes I can see what you mean there would have been a bight of extra cable . Maybe even why it stopped returning back up when pressing lever the cable could be damaged. Have a better look the morn . It would have done 500 ish miles not being in the proper way. Not so easy to see with my old eyes. Still learning thanks.

 

[Bigtuna00]

Just watched video he inserts both ends of the cable from left side

That's the best tip, inserting from the motor end is much easier than trying to come down from the head tube and make the Shadow Loop turn. Check out page 26 of the manual.

 

[TrackRat]

Just did this today. Swapped my stock dropper (19 Levo Expert) for a Fox Transfer. Was somewhat of a PITA. Originally planned to reuse the original cable housing but accidentally pulled it too far down the seat post tube. Couldn’t retrieve it and just ended up yanking it out and starting over. Originally he tried to connect a new piece of housing to the original and just pull it thru but it kept getting snagged. Took off the left crack and engine cover and fed the new housing up from the bottom. Pretty easy to get the seat tube section done. Snaking it back up to the front of the bike was a pain as it took some finesse to get it to round the corner and up thru the tubing adjacent to the rear shock. On the done I was very happy. The process was frustrating as I hadn’t allocated enough time

 

[Binhill1]

That's the best tip, inserting from the motor end is much easier than trying to come down from the head tube and make the Shadow Loop turn. Check out page 26 of the manual.

View attachment 47722

I hope it's as easy as it looks I doubt it though.

 

[Binhill1]

Just did this today. Swapped my stock dropper (19 Levo Expert) for a Fox Transfer. Was somewhat of a PITA. Originally planned to reuse the original cable housing but accidentally pulled it too far down the seat post tube. Couldn’t retrieve it and just ended up yanking it out and starting over. Originally he tried to connect a new piece of housing to the original and just pull it thru but it kept getting snagged. Took off the left crack and engine cover and fed the new housing up from the bottom. Pretty easy to get the seat tube section done. Snaking it back up to the front of the bike was a pain as it took some finesse to get it to round the corner and up thru the tubing adjacent to the rear shock. On the done I was very happy. The process was frustrating as I hadn’t allocated enough time

Have a look today struggling to see where it is supposed to insert when I looked yesterday. If I can get both ends through shadow loop I can attach to old cable to get to front as old one still in but not through loop.

 

[Binhill1]

N

Have a look today struggling to see where it is supposed to insert when I looked yesterday. If I can get both ends through shadow loop I can attach to old cable to get to front as old one still in but not through loop.

Well that was a nightmare sorting that out . Can't see what you are doing and in the end one up remote is Shite to reach.