Drivetrain cleaning

[RJUK]

Hi folks,

I was cleaning my drivetrain today and using a hose to rinse it off and brush all the crap out from between the gears, but when I was running my fingers across the chain afterwards it still sounded wet.

Now, I applied my usual Peaty's all weather premium lube, but it got me wondering what the "correct" way of doing it was.

It seems like using something like WD40 to get rid of the water would be a good idea, but then that would leave it's own light oil on the chain, which I guess you don't really want when you're about to put a proper lube on there.

So did I do it right by just spinning the cranks with a microfiber towel pinching the chain between my fingers to dry it off, or is there a better way that someone can recommend?

 

[Bndit]

I`m using Peaty`s wet lube (which I think is best for my use and that premium contains ptfe and it`s no go…). when I wash my drivetrain, I wash it with same muc off I use for all bike. Then depending how lazy I feel, I either wipe the chain dry with some cloth and let it dry and the lube it or spray it with MO94 and then lube it immediately. But it`t good lube, hold`s really well so no need to wash chain everytime when washing bike.

 

[Wilbur]

Wipe it down then spin the cranks and dry it with compressed air. Another wipe then new lube.

 

[James_C]

I use a wet vac

 

[RustyMTB]

I habitually run a rag soaked in GT85 around the chain & then, clean it off & lube it. I'll do that every ride. Practically never bother cleaning the cassette or the chain ring unless they're caked but wlll clear the jockey wheels as required.

 

[Dax]

Take the chain off. Soak it in diesel for a couple of days. Stir it up to get all the muck out a few times. Pull it out and let it drain. Wipe anything left off. Oil.

 

[Mik3F]

I use Peatys drive train cleaner (foaming type)

After cleaning I use a dry microfibre towel and dry it off, spinning the cranks whilst holding the chain to wipe off all the water

Once its dry I then apply the All Weather premium lube

 

[RJUK]

I`m using Peaty`s wet lube (which I think is best for my use and that premium contains ptfe and it`s no go…). when I wash my drivetrain, I wash it with same muc off I use for all bike. Then depending how lazy I feel, I either wipe the chain dry with some cloth and let it dry and the lube it or spray it with MO94 and then lube it immediately. But it`t good lube, hold`s really well so no need to wash chain everytime when washing bike.

Yeah, the PTFE isn't great for the environment, but should provide better protection for the drivetrain. Would be nicer if it could offer the same protection without it.

I had to clean the drivetrain as it was pretty grubby from my last ride. I figure it's probably better to make the effort to keep it clean so it lasts longer.

I did consider compressed air, but hadn't thought about a wet vac. Sounds like that would be quite tricky.

And now I'm thinking about this I just remembered that I have an electric dog drier that would have done the job perfectly.

I guess that's what I'll use next time. A strong blast of hot air should do it.

 

[RJUK]

Take the chain off. Soak it in diesel for a couple of days. Stir it up to get all the muck out a few times. Pull it out and let it drain. Wipe anything left off. Oil.

That's a bit much for routine maintenance though. It's a new drivetrain and a new chain, and I fully degreased it before first use. I don't want to go using a new quick link every time I ride the bike! I know people re-use them, but I worry about weakening it, especially on an ebike.

It wasn't totally caked, just dusty with a bit of dry dirt thrown up. I'm more just trying to figure a quick and efficient way of cleaning it after each ride to keep it running smoothly.

 

[James_C]

I did consider compressed air, but hadn't thought about a wet vac. Sounds like that would be quite tricky.

Not really, I use a park tools chain cleaner, rinse with clean water. Then fire up the wet vac, hoover the cassette a bit, then put it on the bottom jockey wheel using the cage to stop it hitting the chain and jockey wheels. Then spin the crank slowly to revolve the chain, and you are left with a dryish chain.

The wet vac was about £40, it is brilliant, used it for loads of stuff, the car, house gutters etc.

 

[RJUK]

Not really, I use a park tools chain cleaner, rinse with clean water. Then fire up the wet vac, hoover the cassette a bit, then put it on the bottom jockey wheel using the cage to stop it hitting the chain and jockey wheels. Then spin the crank slowly to revolve the chain, and you are left with a dryish chain.

The wet vac was about £40, it is brilliant, used it for loads of stuff, the car, house gutters etc.

Good idea putting it on the cage. Didn't think of that. I was envisaging it clattering the cassette as the cranks were spun.

 

[p3eps]

I bought one of those 'electric air dusters' from eBay for £25 specifically for this.

Electric Compressed Air Duster & Vacuum Powerful 110000RPM / 100000PA for PC Car | eBay

Speed: 110000rpm(max). Compressed Air : The Electric Air Duster is equipped with the newest performance motor that grants it the max speed up to 110000 RMP. - Vacuum degree: 5000Pa. 1 x electric vacuum cleaner.

www.ebay.co.uk

I wash my bike and use the Peaty's drivetrain cleaner, then dry it all off with a towel. I had been leaving it in the warm garage to fully dry off before applying the Peaty's all weather lube... but sometimes I noticed bits of 'orange' appearing on my lovely silver XX cassette / chain.

I've only used it twice so far, but it seems to be really effective. Bounce the bike a few times, towel try, and then put this thing blowing air full pelt over the cassette whilst I spin it... and then hold it on the chain and turn the cranks. A small puddle of water on the floor afterwards!

 

[Montana St Alum]

When I get a new chain, I clean it off thoroughly, dry it and then hot wax it. Just plain paraffin works fine. That's good for about 400 - 500 miles here in Utah. Then I swap it for another waxed chain. Pretty dry here, but it's amazing how clean it keeps my whole drive train. With the chain off the bike, after rinsing, if your final rinse is 90+% isopropyl alcohol it displaces the water and dries fast without leaving any residue such as WD-40 would.

 

[RJUK]

When I get a new chain, I clean it off thoroughly, dry it and then hot wax it. Just plain paraffin works fine. That's good for about 400 - 500 miles here in Utah. Then I swap it for another waxed chain. Pretty dry here, but it's amazing how clean it keeps my whole drive train. With the chain off the bike, after rinsing, if your final rinse is 90+% isopropyl alcohol it displaces the water and dries fast without leaving any residue such as WD-40 would.

Good idea. I have some IPA in a spray bottle.

 

[steve_sordy]

I have done most of the chain cleaning ideas listed above, except the use of an air jet. Whilst satisfying to do in the belief that I was doing a good job, none of them made a difference to chain life. So now I don't do anything special at all.

I clean the bike with water the cheapest car cleaner I can buy at Halfords (a UK motor spares shop on the high street). When the bike is mostly clean, I use Hope's Sh1t Shifter (a brake-friendly degreaser for bikes) on the transmission. Then it all gets rinsed off with clean water. Job done!

The bike comes in to the garage and I run the chain through an old towel, pressing sideways as well as top and bottom. Then I apply a wet lube, by running the chain past the nozzle of the oil bottle. Then I walk away.

 

[irie]

I have done most of the chain cleaning ideas listed above, except the use of an air jet. Whilst satisfying to do in the belief that I was doing a good job, none of them made a difference to chain life. So now I don't do anything special at all.
...

Agree with you. With back of bike on a stand, while turning the right pedal blast muck downwards off the chain with garden hose, dry it with a cloth, then spray with lube. However I clean, I get 1,000 miles from a chain, my wife gets 600 (I clean both chains). I think the difference is that I don't crunch through gears whereas my wife does.

 

[Tepi]

Kun saan uuden ketjun, puhdistan sen perusteellisesti, kuivaan ja kuumavahaan. Pelkkä parafiini toimii hyvin. Se on hyvä noin 400 - 500 mailia täällä Utahissa. Sitten vaihdan sen toiseen vahattuun ketjuun. Melko kuivaa täällä, mutta on hämmästyttävää, kuinka puhtaana se pitää koko ajolinjani. Kun ketju on irti pyörästä, huuhtelun jälkeen, jos viimeinen huuhtelu on 90+% isopropyylialkoholia, se syrjäyttää veden ja kuivuu nopeasti jättämättä jäämiä, kuten WD-40.

Samoin teen vaha käsittelyn.Kierrätän kolmea ketjua,ajoa noin 400 km,maastossa. Seuraava ketju kiertoon. Vaha pitää puhtaana voimansiirron.

 

[RJUK]

Thanks. I'm less worried about the cleaning and more about leaving water on the chain, causing it to rust.

WD40, contrary to what most people think, is a Water Dispersing agent, hence the "WD" in the name.

It has a light oil, designed to stay on the part afterwards to stop corrosion, which then makes many people think it's a lubricant.

My thoughts were that it would be nice to be able to use this to get the water out of every nook and cranny before applying a proper lube. However, I suspect the coating of light oil would stop the proper lube from "sticking" as well to the chain.

 

[RJUK]

Samoin teen vaha käsittelyn.Kierrätän kolmea ketjua,ajoa noin 400 km,maastossa. Seuraava ketju kiertoon. Vaha pitää puhtaana voimansiirron.

I considered waxing, but all the sonic cleaning and hot wax baths etc put me off. I don't really want to add complexity if possible.

I've already got enough on my plate remembering to charge all the batteries on the bike, check air pressures in the tyres and suspension, etc etc.

At the weekend I even had to update my derailleur firmware via Bluetooth...?!?!

It was so much easier back in the day - grab the bike out of the garage and ride it. Despite the thick black gunk all over the drivetrain, the only thing I ever replaced was a shifter after I went over the bars and smashed the little display thing on it.

Them were the days...

 

[Polar]

Been using Rock'n Roll which clean and lube the chain the last year and after 5.000 km shifting gear is still butter smooth.

 

[Montana St Alum]

I considered waxing, but all the sonic cleaning and hot wax baths etc put me off. I don't really want to add complexity if possible.

I just clean the chain with degreaser and then soapy water before rinsing and drying. Then I drop it in the melted wax. I'm not going to sweat it THAT hard. The only downside I've had is that you can only get 2 or 3 uses out of the (one time use) quick links. I swap at about 500 miles, but the old chain is still pretty clean. I just alternate between the two chains.

 

[steve_sordy]

Thanks. I'm less worried about the cleaning and more about leaving water on the chain, causing it to rust.
...................

When I used to buy cheap chains they always rusted and I had to lube the chain after every wet ride. If you pay a bit more for your chains, not only do they not rust, but they last longer too. (win-win!)

 

[RJUK]

When I used to buy cheap chains they always rusted and I had to lube the chain after every wet ride. If you pay a bit more for your chains, not only do they not rust, but they last longer too. (win-win!)

That's good then. Mine are both XO T-type chains, so ought to be pretty decent. Which is also the reason I'm suddenly more curious about looking after them vs some cheapo chain/drivetrain.

 

[Tepi]

Puhdistan ketjun vain rasvanpoistoaineella ja sitten saippuavedellä ennen huuhtelua ja kuivausta. Sitten pudotan sen sulaan vahaan. En aio hikoilla sitä NIN kovaa. Ainoa haittapuoli, joka henkilö on ollut, on, voit saada vain 2 tai 3kertaa (kertakäyttöisistä) pikalinkeistä. muutan noin 500 mailin kohdalla, mutta vanha ketju on edelleen melko siisti. Vuorottelen vain kahden ketjun välillä.

Puhdistan ketjun vain rasvanpoistoaineella ja sitten saippuavedellä ennen huuhtelua ja kuivausta. Sitten pudotan sen sulaan vahaan. En aio hikoilla sitä NIN kovaa. Ainoa haittapuoli, joka henkilö on ollut, on, voit saada vain 2 tai 3kertaa (kertakäyttöisistä) pikalinkeistä. muutan noin 500 mailin kohdalla, mutta vanha ketju on edelleen melko siisti. Vuorottelen vain kahden ketjun välillä.

Vahaaminen ei ole vaikea .Itse teen sen mielelläni,se on terapiaa. Toiset ihmettelee miksi takapakka -ketjut ( 3 kpl,) kiiltää kuin uutena,lisäksi pikku rissat loistaa. Puhdas voimansiirto muuttaa paremmin,mittausten mukaan kuluminen pienempi.Näillä työkaluilla asia hoidetaan , kuva.

 

[RJUK]

Vahaaminen ei ole vaikea .Itse teen sen mielelläni,se on terapiaa. Toiset ihmettelee miksi takapakka -ketjut ( 3 kpl,) kiiltää kuin uutena,lisäksi pikku rissat loistaa. Puhdas voimansiirto muuttaa paremmin,mittausten mukaan kuluminen pienempi.Näillä työkaluilla asia hoidetaan , kuva.

View attachment 139959

Not sure the wife would be impressed if I did that with our saucepans!

 

[Tepi]

Etkö ole varma, että vaimo olisi vaikuttunut, jos tekisin sen kattilojemme kanssa!

En ota sitä riskiä,vaimon kanssa eletty yli 50 vuotta.Kalliksi kavisi kouluttaa uusi kumppani,menisi varmaan pyöräkin myyntiin.

 

[Bummers]

After degreasing the chain I blast it clean with an aerosol electrical cleaning solvent, seems to remove the degreaser and leave the chain dry ready for lubing.

It helps that I get this stuff free from work

Just need to remember to leave the garage door open when doing it, made myself light headed once when I forgot

 

[irie]

After degreasing the chain I blast it clean with an aerosol electrical cleaning solvent, seems to remove the degreaser and leave the chain dry ready for lubing.

It helps that I get this stuff free from work

Just need to remember to leave the garage door open when doing it, made myself light headed once when I forgot

Good point there. In future after blasting water down through the chain to get shit out I'll spray it with Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to get the moisture out before lubing the chain.

 

[Wilbur]

Compressed air removes all the water. Try it, you'll be surprised at the puddle on the floor, even after wiping the chain 'dry'.

 

[Gavalar]

Hi folks,

I was cleaning my drivetrain today and using a hose to rinse it off and brush all the crap out from between the gears, but when I was running my fingers across the chain afterwards it still sounded wet.

Now, I applied my usual Peaty's all weather premium lube, but it got me wondering what the "correct" way of doing it was.

It seems like using something like WD40 to get rid of the water would be a good idea, but then that would leave it's own light oil on the chain, which I guess you don't really want when you're about to put a proper lube on there.

So did I do it right by just spinning the cranks with a microfiber towel pinching the chain between my fingers to dry it off, or is there a better way that someone can recommend?

I never bother drying my chain, any lube should dispell any water from your chain.