Does your SRAM chain gap screw adjust itself?

[RebornRider]

Experience has taught me that, when shifting gets noisy and nasty, the chain gap screw (aka B screw for some reason) has adjusted itself. It never seems to be the barrel adjuster, low limit screw, or high limit screw. Or a bent derailleur hanger.

How many of you SRAM derailleur guys (11 speed, if that matters) have to periodically check and fix the derailleur chain gap?

I applied a small amount of Loctite 242 (blue) thread locker to the assembly a few minutes ago. I'm hoping for two things. (1) The Loctite wicks into the place it needs to be. (2) I don't regret this later!

To all you would-be trolls who want to tell me Shimano is better, I'm completely satisfied with my transmission when it is properly adjusted.

 

[RustyIron]

Maybe the Medium Strength Loctite will wick in, maybe not. You could run the screw out, apply the Loctite, and then readjust. There's also a Medium Strength Wicking Grade that works nicely.

But if you're really looking for a troll, I'm your huckleberry. Throw out that B-Screw derailleur and get yourself a T-Type AXS drivetrain. No need to thank me.

 

[Mikerb]

...never... on any bike.............all with either GX/GX AXS, or X01 mechs. What mech are you using?

 

[James_C]

mine was always doing it. Loctite.

Or replace everything with Shimano XT, better option I've found

 

[RebornRider]

...never... on any bike.............all with either GX/GX AXS, or X01 mechs. What mech are you using?

The one my 2019 expert carbon came with, X1. This auto-adjusting is fairly recent, so I'm guessing the mechanical setting retention is getting tired. The bike is heading towards 5 years old and I ride it a lot.

 

[Koban]

Same issue here on 3 AXS XX1 mechs. Loctite 243 did fix the job ;-)

On two bikes switched to T-Type Transmission.

 

[Stihldog]

But if you're really looking for a troll, I'm your huckleberry. Throw out that B-Screw derailleur and get yourself a T-Type AXS drivetrain. No need to thank me.

For a few years now I’ve been using a AXS GX derailer, rocker-type controller, Shimano XT cassette, Hyper Glide chain, ethirteen chainring. The AXS derailer was attached to the derailer hanger. This was a “hack”, but it worked very well. Smooth, quiet, fast.

Then my Trek Fuel EXE came with a T-Type derailer. No “B” screw, only a high and low adjustment. The LBS did the initial setup procedure (three bike mechanics and myself since this was fairly new to everyone).

Once the fine tuning was done through the app (#9 position) I haven’t needed to adjust the shifting since. This system is smoother, quieter and faster than my “hack” method …which I didn’t think was possible.

My next derailer on the Rail 9.7 will be a T-Type AXS system.

 

[Arminius]

Hi,
I though my B-screw loosened itself but found that chain wear (elongation) should have been the reason.

 

[GeorgesEBike]

I have to use Loctite on all of my SRAM AXS b-tension screws. I used to have to adjust them every 4-5 rides but have been good since using the Loctite.

 

[RebornRider]

OP again. My 'loctite wicking experiment' in post #1 failed. The chain gap adjusted itself down to zero. This time I backed the adjuster screw most of the way out, applied loctite blue to the threads, then wound the adjuster back in until the chain gap tool indicated a proper gap.

 

[Mikerb]

nb...it takes 24 hours for locktite to set and needs to be undisturbed meanwhile

 

[RebornRider]

Yeah, I actually read instructions! ;-P

It cured overnight.