Dodgy SRAM Shifting

Peaky Rider

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I'm sure there will have been other threads on SRAM twelve speed shifting but here is my problem.
I can either get the gears to shift up the cassette correctly or down the cassette correctly when riding my Focus, but never both. I bought a gear hanger truing tool, a new rear derailleur and new inner and outer cables but all to no avail.
When I put the bike on a bike stand, everything works as it should, but as soon as I ride it the vague shifting returns. One click will shift up, but it takes two clicks to start to move down the cassette again. This suggests that it is something to do with the suspension being compressed when I sit on the bike. Now I have read of suspension compression causing 'ghost shifting' but my problem is not 'ghost shifting'.
Anyone else had anything similar?
 

Gary

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it could also suggest your cable routing may not be long/free enough or ferrules may not be seated properly meaning smooth inner cable movement is being compromised somewhere . - this is usually what is meant by "ghost shifting"
and could also suggest your top jockey wheel may not be in the optimum position relative to the cassette at the bikes sag point. (B-tension adjustment). it can be annoyingly pernickety getting this spot on on long travel FS bikes. - the plastic jockey wheel position guide that comes with SRAM mechs does not always mean the top jockey will be in optimum B-tension on every bike.
Chain length makes a difference too BTW
 

Changleen

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Jan 18, 2020
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Sounds a bit like the cable is having trouble moving easily through the outer. Maybe check the routing for kinks, replace if any found. Maybe first take the cable off the derailleur at the back and check my shifting whilst just holding it that it is moving freely during shifts. It need to be very free, like ‘fall out’ frictionless. Check the ends of your cable outers are nice and square and not cut at a funny angle or with some part longer than others. Check the inner plastic tube in the outer has a nice flare at both ends using a old sharpened spike or similar. I use a light lube in my inners too to keep things extra slippery.
 

DrStupid

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I never did get the eagle 12 speed to work on my trance. It was doing excatly as yours. I was so convinced it was a cable issue, that a ran a new optislick cable externally with no luck. I changed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, and gave up a broken man.

I now have nothing but love for my hybrid xt 10 speed.
 

CjP

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I’ve been plagued with similar shifting issues since owning my bike.
While not an ultimate solution I changed to Hope
Jockey wheels with a Bike yoke upper wheel and it improved my dodgy shifting quite a bit. That was without adjusting anything and it was an immediate improvement.
As Gary said though check your cable routing though as that would be my number one guess, also keeping the rear derailleur clean and free of dirt/dust/mud and well lubricated will help.
I find that I constantly have to adjust/maintain my derailleur for it to work faultlessly on my 19 Kenevo. In fairness it does cop a beating and I am not kind to it when shifting so most of it is probably my fault.
 

ridesantacruz

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Feb 4, 2020
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I recommend going away from 12 speed. It's not needed on an ebike and to delicate of a system to work long term. I would change your drive train to 11 speed shimano xt. A lot less problems and cheaper in the long run.
 

Changleen

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Jan 18, 2020
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I have a friend who runs a 12 speed SRAM set-up, GX derailleur and shifter. He’s had a nightmare for weeks and very similar problems to people in this thread. In the end he had to change both his mech hanger and rear derailleur to get reliable shifting, and just a few rides later after a knock and stick in the chain, it’s f**cked again. It does seem the SRAM 12 speed is very very sensitive to misalignment.
 

Gary

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folk not knowing how to set-up derailleur gearing or clean cable routing?

or

folk riding their expensive bicycle derrailleurs straight into obsticles bending them and then blaming the manufacturer?


Neither are a new infliction.
 

DrStupid

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folk not knowing how to set-up derailleur gearing or clean cable routing?

or

folk riding their expensive bicycle derrailleurs straight into obsticles bending them and then blaming the manufacturer?


Neither are a new infliction.
I'll admit, I put my 10 speed through hell, seldom adjust it, it just keeps on keeping on.
 

Gary

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What is this "seldom adjust" nonsense?

regardless of how many gears it has, a properly set up derailleur gearing system doesn't EVER need *adjusted* unless something has bent, broken or failed (due to wear or impact).
 

DrStupid

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What is this "seldom adjust" nonsense?

regardless of how many gears it has, a properly set up derailleur gearing system doesn't EVER need *adjusted* unless something has bent, broken or failed (due to wear or impact).
That it seldom needs adjustment. Lol.

Used in a sentence it might be phrased like this...

Sometimes, after a gearing change, or a cable change, or a chain replacement, I will adjust a limit, or a barrel... but seldom do I need to do such things.
 
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Peaky Rider

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folk not knowing how to set-up derailleur gearing or clean cable routing?

or

folk riding their expensive bicycle derrailleurs straight into obsticles bending them and then blaming the manufacturer?


Neither are a new infliction.

Stop being so patronising Gary, I was maintaining my bikes, and mates' bikes, when you were probably still falling off your balance bike.:p
 

Gary

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TBF. If Balance bikes were a thing when you were out playing bike mechanic with your pals. I was probably upstairs wi your maw ;)
 
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lumpy

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Nov 26, 2018
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SF Bay Area
I find my SRAM 11speed very sensitive to how the cable is run. Any drag or slight kink in the cable makes it frustrating to dial in.
I plumbed in a new cable recently and now it's back to happy shifting
 

steve_sordy

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Nov 5, 2018
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Lincolnshire, UK
Your strong thumb moves the inner cable through the outer, but the weaker mech spring is unable to pull the inner back through the outer cable, that is until the movement has got big enough to overpower whatever restriction is causing the problem. So, look for kinks in the outer, kinks on the inner, or muck in the cables. I have had this problem even after fitting new cables, because I had inadvertently stood on the inner wire before installation (easily done!)
 

Mikerb

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well at least he missed the house so I suppose that might be compensation from a few broken ribs.
1. One handed operation of a chainsaw
2. Operating a chainsaw overhead
3. No helmet
4. No eye protection
5. Clearly no blind side pre cut
6. Working on an insecure ladder

PILLOCK
 

Gary

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Whatever you do @Mikerb Don't download tiktok.
Youdl explode into flames with all that health and safety advice you feel duty bound to share

:LOL:
 

Mikerb

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I have no idea what tictok is so not much chance! Im no H and S expert ( or fan) but pretty good at self preservation!
 

CjP

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folk not knowing how to set-up derailleur gearing or clean cable routing?

or

folk riding their expensive bicycle derrailleurs straight into obsticles bending them and then blaming the manufacturer?


Neither are a new infliction.
I’m the second option but I always blame myself.
 

Trickz

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Sep 2, 2019
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I’ve had this issue on my meta sx,first I found a kink in the gear cable so replaced,better but still iffy moving down onto smaller cogs,fitted a bike yoke bearing pulley wheel to my gx mech this sorted the dropping to smaller cogs out but still having irregular out of index sounding issues,using the sram jig I set the b screw gap with 30% sag which made it ok but still not super smooth,I’ve wound the b screw now till the top jockey wheel is 12mm away from the 50t cog and it’s now spot on for me?
 

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