Did I hurt the rim?

[jetskier973]

Hi all, hoping someone here has insight on these rims.
Raceface ARC 30 offset.
During seating of the bead, I overpumped the tire and it blew off the rim. Did I hurt the rim?

 

[Bear-uk]

No

 

[irie]

Pumped to what psi, and what is the tyre and its maximum psi rating?

 

[jetskier973]

Pumped to what psi, and what is the tyre and its maximum psi rating?

Schwalbe Tacky Chan, 50psi max.
I was going lazy route with compressor, didn't hear the bead popping over the compressor noise.

 

[jetskier973]

I'm getting air leaking from weep holes and out of some spokes.
Got to be coming from valve stem?
I've never had this much trouble before. And I know I've spent less time with the detail of taping in the past, to the point of careless over-confidence.

 

[Stihldog]

Rim should be fine. Just make sure and spin the wheel. Look for any obvious deflection. Remove the old rim tape. It’s toast. Use the correct width (30mm) tape. Slightly stretch, overlap and centre the new tape. Use a heated awl to create the valve hole (don’t cut the hole…melt it to size).

Chase the tape with a soft rag while tapping. Don’t use your fingers. Install your inspected tire and pump up to 40psi only. Release the air and add sealant …and the valve core. 80-100ml of tire sealant. Wiggle and tighten the valve stem finger tight. (I always add a 1/4 turn more).

Pump the tire up to 40psi again. Spin the tire and check for air leaks. (Dishsoap and water 7:1 solution).

Reduce the psi to your favourite riding pressure (ie 26lbs). This is what I would do, but I’m not a rocket surgeon.

 

[Husky430]

Schwalbe Tacky Chan, 50psi max.
I was going lazy route with compressor, didn't hear the bead popping over the compressor noise.

done EXACTLY the same thing with the same rim, all good with mine

 

[RustyIron]

I was going lazy route with compressor, didn't hear the bead popping over the compressor noise.

Sometimes the bead just gently slides into place without making any noise. Your rim is probably fine. Because you're experiencing some leakage, just retape it as others have suggested. Don't be surprised if your tire is now deformed and doesn't run true.

 

[jetskier973]

Thanks everyone!
I've gotten good at getting the tire on using only a couple zipties, dish soap and hands Also using the floor pump to set the bead, no more compressor.
I'm gonna replace the valve stem as it seems the rubber sleeve on the stem is looking worn out. Also have tape on the way as suggested to replace.
Thank you @Stihldog for the sharing your steps. I will do this.

 

[Stihldog]

The edges of each spoke hole can be sharp or have a small burr. (Manufacturing process). Because you applied excessive psi, the rim tape may have cut/sliced over a spoke hole and started behaving like a small flap…difficult to see and difficult to seal. Air would then escape through the spoke holes or small vent holes on the rim sides.

Any ripples in the tape could be problematic also. There is a technique to apply the rim tape correctly.

I use Filmore values for my tire(s) but other valve types are fine as long as the rubber seal is not damaged.

 

[jetskier973]

The edges of each spoke hole can be sharp or have a small burr. (Manufacturing process). Because you applied excessive psi, the rim tape may have cut/sliced over a spoke hole and started behaving like a small flap…difficult to see and difficult to seal. Air would then escape through the spoke holes or small vent holes on the rim sides.

I've re-taped since that blowout. But this time, I'll be sure to pull with a little less tension and use a soft towel to follow instead of my fingers.

Yeah! I noticed some of the holes had burrs and considered spending some time with a dremel and sanding drum.
In the past I would just tape around twice.
But since you mention it, I'll dig out the ol' dremel kit and get to it!
Nothing wrong with making it nice!

This reminds me of the importance of facing bottom bracket surfaces, brake caliper post mounts on fork and frame, and other areas that just need a finishing touch that manufacturing won't touch.
These finishing touches can certainly eliminate frustration with leaky rims, creaking BB's, and finicky brake calipers that move just as the bolt reaches torque.

 

[jetskier973]

I use Filmore values for my tire(s) but other valve types are fine as long as the rubber seal is not damaged.

I was looking at Reserve Fillmore . I like them a bit better than the new Muc Off Big Bore.
Fillmore has a lot less parts than the Big Bore.
My only concern with the Fillmore is if it would play nice with my digital SKS Air checker.
I have the analog gauge on my floor pump, but I don't trust.

 

[Stihldog]

The problem with the Filmore valves is that some sealants cannot be injected (with hose and syringe) because of the nature or particulates. The valve clogs up easily and prevents this method. I simply pour 80-100ml of sealant directly into the tire by breaking one of the beads.

Regarding psi checking …I’m not sure how a SKS Checker would work? But I can tell you that I rarely lose psi. Maybe lose a few psi every 2-3months. I may have punctured a tire but the sealant probably remedies that. But I have burped the tires.

I now check the psi for my tires before each ride using the thumb/index finger squeeze test …accurate to +/- 2psi.

Edit; I use Muckoff, Bontrager, Stans and some Orange stuff for sealant for friends bike tires. I like MucOff. Just shake it up…shake shake shake 🫨

 

[Mabman]

Many years ago during my first attempt @ tubeless, not using tubeless specific rims or tires and a compressor, I blew the tire off the rim and got splooge all over my friends panhead, I was in his garage, and the only thing I hurt was my hearing......