Deurallier vibration

[Nickolp1974]

On my e120 with XT Di2 drivetrain the deurallier vibrates, a bit in 2nd but mainly 1st and it's quite aggressive. Changed the cassette to an SLX and it had a new chain about 3 weeks ago. When pedalling something does not feel right, just wondering if I got the correct chain.

 

[GrahamPaul]

Don't want to teach you how to suck eggs... but when you re-threaded the chain around the jockey wheels, you didn't by any chance thread the chain the wrong side of the bar under the top jockey wheel did you? That makes for a lot of noise and vibration...

Edit: "chain derailment prevention plate" apparently...

 

[steve_sordy]

Yep, I've done that!

In practice, it doesn't look as bad as it does in that picture.

 

[GrahamPaul]

Yep, I've done that!

In practice, it doesn't look as bad as it does in that picture.

Yep. I've got that tee-shirt too. The conversation went something like:

"Yer what?! I wouldn't be that stupid. That's a noobs error.... Oh..."

 

[Nickolp1974]

I wouldn't of thought so, but I will check in the morning. Damn got me thinking now, I hope not!! It does feel very clunky, can't of done, rode about 200 miles since new chain.

 

[Nickolp1974]

Couldnt wait, got out of bed ? to go and check and guess what, i have done exactly that!! Bugger!! Thanks for pointing that out Graham.
Can you buy just the snap links for kmc chains?

 

[R120]

Ha, I have done that before, very easy to do if your not paying attention!

 

[B1rdie]

#metoo ?

 

[Gary]

Can you buy just the snap links for kmc chains?

Yes. but assuming your chain already has one you can just open it and re-use it.

 

[Nickolp1974]

So glad I'm not the only one! I still can't believe all the miles I've covered with it like this. In my defence it's the first chain I've changed in many years, I normally do 95% of my maintenance and let my LBS do the rest, this time though I did not want to leave my bike as I need that at the moment just to get me through the day. If I'm not riding it, I'm cleaning or maintaining it.

Yes. but assuming your chain already has one you can just open it and re-use it.

Yeah it does, I thought they were one time use things. I was told wrong then??

 

[Nickolp1974]

Does this look right? What position should the clutch be in, it was opposite to what it is now but the chain was slack in 11th. Had to remove a couple of extra links, not sure if I've taken out 1 too many? Also the lower jockey wheel, is that worn?

 

[R120]

Clutch should be in the ON, position, opposite to your pics, when riding the bike. Put it in off when removing the wheels etc. Number of links would be in the 118 region, but that can vary depending on your front chainring and set up.

I have same derailleur, and it has over 3000 miles on it, still going strong so I doubt yours are worn.

 

[Nickolp1974]

Thanks for that, 110 links, does seem tight going onto 1st. Can I reattach the links I have removed or do I now need a new one?

 

[R120]

should be able to reattach, doubt it would cause a problem, but I am an average home mechanic at best! I dont think it would cause any issues unless the chain was significantly worn.

 

[Nickolp1974]

Could just get another snap link I suppose and add the links between the 2

 

[Nickolp1974]

All sorted, went with a new chain instead. Although I have the bike on the stand and the deurallier does not always go all the way back so chain goes slack, will take it for a spin shortly to see if it works better under load.

 

[R120]

You might need to change/adjust indexing/limits

 

[Nickolp1974]

On Di2?? It shifts into each gear fine, chain just goes slack but if I turn the clutch thing off(forwards) it springs back and it's fine.

 

[R120]

Sorry didn't clock its DI2, not familiar with adjustments on that. The clutch is adjustable (tension) so it may be that.

@Gary may be able to offer some advice

 

[R120]

Dont know if this applies to DI2 derailleurs, but may help

 

[Nickolp1974]

Sorry didn't clock its DI2, not familiar with adjustments on that. The clutch is adjustable (tension) so it may be that.

@Gary may be able to offer some advice

That's perfect thank you, just adjusted and it runs spot on, off for a ride! Thanks for all your help, most appreciated

 

[GrahamPaul]

On Di2?? It shifts into each gear fine, chain just goes slack but if I turn the clutch thing off(forwards) it springs back and it's fine.

Not sure about Di2, but the chain to my 12sp Shimano "seems" a bit slack in the smallest cog when in the stand. However this gets taken up by the suspension sag as soon as I get on it. The chain length is a link or two longer for FS bikes over hard tails for this reason.

You should definitely be riding with the clutch in the "on" position. Else you may find some "automatic changes" riding rough stuff in the smallest cogs.

The KMC links are fine to re-use.

 

[GrahamPaul]

That's perfect thank you, just adjusted and it runs spot on, off for a ride! Thanks for all your help, most appreciated

Good to hear. Enjoy your ride out you lucky man (says this old git still stuck in total lockdown )

 

[Beekeeper]

Ha, I have done that before, very easy to do if your not paying attention!

When my e-bike was delivered in a box I had to turn the handlebars but I them couldn’t understand why my shoes kept hitting the front wheels. I thought I had ordered the wrong sized frame and the only way I could ride the bike was in bare feet ?
I quickly learned the errors of my ways after demolishing a fence ?

 

[Nickolp1974]

Not sure about Di2, but the chain to my 12sp Shimano "seems" a bit slack in the smallest cog when in the stand. However this gets taken up by the suspension sag as soon as I get on it. The chain length is a link or two longer for FS bikes over hard tails for this reason.

You should definitely be riding with the clutch in the "on" position. Else you may find some "automatic changes" riding rough stuff in the smallest cogs.

The KMC links are fine to re-use.

Thanks Graham, just did a quick 16 mile test, sounded smooooth this time apart from jumping a bit in 11th. The top jockey wheel does look like its past the bottom sprocket, went into menu to look for adjustments, found it but wont let me adjust for some reason.

 

[steve_sordy]

......... Also the lower jockey wheel, is that worn?

The one on the left is what a worn jockey wheel looks like!

They still work even when the teeth are worn down to nubs, but new ones instantly improve your shifting.

 

[Gary]

Does this look right?

No.
(unless the pic was taken with the suspension fully bottomed out, ie. air removed from shock and compressed)
Otherwise, your chain is too short.
In the largest sprocket (as shown in your pic) if your swing arm were to compresses deep into its travel from a big hit the resultant chaingrowth will be too much for your mech to take up and may rip your expensive Di2 mech clean off.
The reason it was slack in the 11t is because you haven't adjusted B-tension properly.
There's no shame in taking it to a decent bike shop to have your drivetrain set-up properly before you do even more damage.

 

[Mcharza]

Adjust the b-tension. A lot of good videos in the interweb.
Put simply ...

Put the lightest gear on. That is, the largest sprocket at the back and adjust the b-tension screw so that there is about 5-6 mm between the jockey wheel and the sprocket tooth.

Edit: No miles anymore

 

[Mcharza]

Whats so funny @Gary ?? https://bikerumor.com/2017/09/29/aasq-14-what-does-the-b-tension-screw-on-a-derailleur-do/

 

[R120]

You wrote

"5-6 MILES between the jockey wheel and the sprocket tooth"

Its the typo that funny